New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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jjw5015 said:
I've done four batches with same hops. First two had a small 60 minute addition. Last two didnt have any additions until flameout. All 4 tasted very similar to me.
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I usually add Rager-calculated 20 IBUs from a 60 min. addn and then dry hop, but I am pretty confident I could just skip the kettle hops completely and do a 100% dry hop version of this that would taste delicious and not too different from that. I do enjoy a more bitter punch sometimes though. It can make the beer more interesting, like adding hot sauce to food. :)
 
SomeDick said:
Tried making a version of the NE IPA yesterday.
Unfortunately I couldn't get ahold of Mosaic or Galaxy hops.
My OG hit 1.074, probably because I'm still new to All Grain, but I got my usual 5.5 gallons, so i guess it's going to be a Imperial IPA, which I don't mind :)
5.5 gallon batch
Grain Bill:
2-row Pale Malt- 5.5lbs
2-row Marris Otter- 5.5lbs
Flaked Oats- 1lb
Flaked barley- 1/2lb
Honey Malt- 1lb

Hops:
Warrior- .75 at 60mins
Citra/ Amarillo/ cascade- at FO, cooled to 160*f

Going to follow the same dry hop schedule but with Citra and Amarillo.

Used WLP 001 California Ale.
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citra and amarillo are good choices i think. i have used them in combination with eldorado in my first batch, and with ekuanot in the most recent 2 batches (still fermenting), mixed in equal parts with the citra and amarillo. the sample i tasted at bottling has a really wonderful pop of grapefruity sweetness. I don't know if that's an ekuanot thing, or if that's a dry-hop during active fermentation thing. Maybe a little of both.
 
rwing7486 said:
I see allot of people adding 60 minute hop additions. Has anyone tried eliminating this addition? Home brewing association has an article with tips from the pros in which they state to use little to no hops during the boil. Only hop addition they recommend is adding a small percentage of FWH.
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only way i have brewed it is pretty much exactly like weldwerks recipe. 1/2 oz or at FWH, then no more hops until hopstand. 2 oz for 30 mins, 2 oz for another 30 mins, then cool, then 2 rounds of 2 oz dry hops. I can't think of any reason to do it differently than that because the beer seems to be turning out perfect. :ban:
 
motosapiens said:
only way i have brewed it is pretty much exactly like weldwerks recipe. 1/2 oz or at FWH, then no more hops until hopstand. 2 oz for 30 mins, 2 oz for another 30 mins, then cool, then 2 rounds of 2 oz dry hops. I can't think of any reason to do it differently than that because the beer seems to be turning out perfect. :ban:
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat.
1/2 oz FWH, then additions at 5 mins and 0 mins for a 30 min stand.
then a gigantic dryhop to p**s off my bank account.
 
Has anyone used Maris Otter in a NE IPA with favorable or unfavorable results? What differences were experienced or expected when comparing it to 2 row? My guess is the beer might be a tad darker due to the SRM in MO.
 
I am planning to brew my first NE IPA in a few weeks. With the ease of my new ebiab system it's silly to not be brewing 10 gallon batches. Am I crazy for wanting to pitch some wyeast 3711 saison yeast and some Brett in the other five gallons? I figure the residual sweetness of this grain bill and high mash temp will give the Brett plenty to chew on.
 
elbinwyp said:
I am planning to brew my first NE IPA in a few weeks. With the ease of my new ebiab system it's silly to not be brewing 10 gallon batches. Am I crazy for wanting to pitch some wyeast 3711 saison yeast and some Brett in the other five gallons? I figure the residual sweetness of this grain bill and high mash temp will give the Brett plenty to chew on.
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not at all. I brew funky saisons with massive dryhops alot.
 
Braufessor said:
Water Profile - the simple solution:
***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:
100% RO water for both mash and sparge.
Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.

This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.

ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:
1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams
1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams
1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams
1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams
Click to expand...

Dumb question.

I plan on attempting this with 100% RO but I don't quite understand. If I add the first part (1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum) to mash and sparge water, will that get me to roughly 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate?

What's the second part mean? Do I need to add those as well? I've never adjusted my water profile, so just trying to understand before I pick up the appropriate salts/minerals.
 
WesM63 said:
Dumb question.

I plan on attempting this with 100% RO but I don't quite understand. If I add the first part (1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum) to mash and sparge water, will that get me to roughly 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate?

What's the second part mean? Do I need to add those as well? I've never adjusted my water profile, so just trying to understand before I pick up the appropriate salts/minerals.
Click to expand...

Just need to do the first part..... the 1/4 tsp amounts are just for people who want to equate tsp measurements to grams.

the 1tsp CaCl and 1/2 tsp gypsum to each 5 gallons of RO water will get you to the 140:80 ratio roughly.
 
Braufessor said:
Just need to do the first part..... the 1/4 tsp amounts are just for people who want to equate tsp measurements to grams.

the 1tsp CaCl and 1/2 tsp gypsum to each 5 gallons of RO water will get you to the 140:80 ratio roughly.
Click to expand...

Perfect, thanks!
 
jjw5015 said:
I've done four batches with same hops. First two had a small 60 minute addition. Last two didnt have any additions until flameout. All 4 tasted very similar to me.
Click to expand...

Interesting data point. I'm sure OG, Malt Bill, yeast selection among others can be a factor.

I've done IPAs and Pale Ales with no bittering editions, and I felt like the beer lost some of the pungent character that makes it an American IPA or pale ale. All personal preference here, but I prefer a small bittering charge.
 
WesM63 said:
Dumb question.

I plan on attempting this with 100% RO but I don't quite understand. If I add the first part (1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum) to mash and sparge water, will that get me to roughly 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate?

What's the second part mean? Do I need to add those as well? I've never adjusted my water profile, so just trying to understand before I pick up the appropriate salts/minerals.
Click to expand...

A good resource to use for water is Bru-N-Water. You can insert your recipe and mineral additions to see the impact on your mash pH

https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/
 
Braufessor or anyone else in this thread:

Do you have any information about achieving an Alchemist water profile for this batch? Specifically I'd like to achieve something like the water profile of Focal Banger.

Looking around some Heady threads I've arrived at a massively hard water profile (attached)

water.png
 
crusader1612 said:
I'm in the same boat.
1/2 oz FWH, then additions at 5 mins and 0 mins for a 30 min stand.
then a gigantic dryhop to p**s off my bank account.
Click to expand...

if you brew ipa's often, ya gotta buy hops in bulk. i've been getting them from hopsdirect, but I know there are a couple other good sources to buy by the lb. pretty much cuts the price in half, and the hops are fresher.
 
motosapiens said:
if you brew ipa's often, ya gotta buy hops in bulk. i've been getting them from hopsdirect, but I know there are a couple other good sources to buy by the lb. pretty much cuts the price in half, and the hops are fresher.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I do the same and use a food saver and store them in my freezer.
 
jordanfrenzy said:
Braufessor or anyone else in this thread:

Do you have any information about achieving an Alchemist water profile for this batch? Specifically I'd like to achieve something like the water profile of Focal Banger.

Looking around some Heady threads I've arrived at a massively hard water profile (attached)
Click to expand...

Assuming you are starting with RO or distilled water, here's what I came up with to hit those numbers. I couldn't nail the bicarbonate. Not sure how much that matters. I always ignore it when determining my water profile.

These numbers are in grams per gallon. I weigh my additions. If you want to convert these values to tsp, I think Bru'n Water does that. If not, someone on here can chime with the conversions for each mineral.

Gypsum: 1.4185
Epsom Salt: 0.2575
Canning Salt: 0.2560
Baking Soda: 0.3900
Calcium Chloride: 0.2600
 
Thanks, hezagenius.

After reading more of the Heady Topper thread I'm wondering if I'm way off. Using RO water, The consensus for HT is a huge gypsum addition (20g for a 5gal batch) and very little CaCL.

This is all assuming, of course that Alchemist uses the same water profile for Focal Banger.
 
motosapiens said:
if you brew ipa's often, ya gotta buy hops in bulk. i've been getting them from hopsdirect, but I know there are a couple other good sources to buy by the lb. pretty much cuts the price in half, and the hops are fresher.
Click to expand...

Easier said than done - when you live in New Zealand - Can't get bulk US hops here. and NZ Hops are pretty hard to get in bulk as well (NZ Hops hold a monopoly for the commercial guys here)
I have a mate who's just gone commercial on a 200Lt system, and He's going to be getting me some bulk stuff, but outside of that its difficult.
(he gets 5kg lots)
 
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.
 
BrewinSoldier said:
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.
Click to expand...

If you haven't made a NEIPA yet, ratios are the last things you should worry about honestly.
 
BrewinSoldier said:
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.
Click to expand...

I have actually only had treehouse once.... so, it is probably the NEIPA I am least familiar with. That said...... from my own observations and giving beer to other people for blind tasting.... there just is not a substantial difference. Perhaps even undetectable in my opinion (as long as you are talking about not going to total extremes.)

Honestly, as long as you are in a reasonable range - it won't make a significant difference.

That said - I guess if I was recommending, I would say to do one of the following:
120 Sulfate:120 Chloride
or
70 Sulfate:140 chloride

Something like that, with 100% RO water is going to put you right in the ballpark.
 
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.
 
WiscoBrewer said:
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.
Click to expand...

What hops did you use?
Do you know what your FG was?

For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.
 
hezagenius said:
What hops did you use?

Do you know what your FG was?



For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.
Click to expand...


I used galaxy, mosaic, and citra and fg was 1.018 from 1.076...this was a doublish IPA
 
hezagenius said:
What hops did you use?

Do you know what your FG was?



For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.
Click to expand...


I used galaxy, mosaic, and citra and fg was 1.018 from 1.076...this was a doublish version
 
WiscoBrewer said:
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.
Click to expand...

I just had a beer with lactose recently and instantly wondered if adding some to NE IPA might be a good move. Interesting to hear! I suppose it is a lot more calories per beer though, and it is a death wish for lactose intolerant friends!
 
Here is the recipe, I was mistaken, I added .75lbs lactose. The steep was actually 30-40min at 165-170. Its just how I entered it into brewsmith. Also I'm set at 80% eff.
68% Pale 2Row
20% Marris Otter
7% Flaked Oats
5% Lactose

10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
3 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
1 lbs Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM)
12.0 oz Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM)
0.35 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.35 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.20 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.35 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.35 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.25 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 30.0 min
1.25 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 5.0 min
0.75 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 5.0 min
0.75 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 5.0 min
3.00 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 5.0 min
2.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 5.0 min
1.75 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 0.0 min
0.75 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 0.0 min
0.75 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 0.0 min
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
1.00 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
1.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
 

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