My beer only tastes WORSE with time

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would think it would be a hit and miss type problem if the beer is getting infected in the bottles, I mean you would think some of them would have to be okay. In my case I stopped using bleach, and started using iodophor so I may think it was the bleach causing the off flavors but it could have been a sanitation problem that the iodophor cleaned up. What I'm getting at is you try everything you can think of to correct the problem.
 
homebrewer_99 said:
I didn't read all the posts, but have you thought about using bottled water?

I do use bottled water in the brew itself, but use tap water to sanitize (mixed with iodophor) and to rinse. Do you use bottled water to sanitize as well?
 
rhinostylee said:
I'm pretty sure iodopher is a no rinse sanitizer.


yes it is, at 12.5ppm (1 tablespoon to 5 gallons, or 1.8 teaspoons to 3 gallons, or .6 teaspoons to 1 gallon)
 
Walker said:
Also, I think the effects of campden are gone after a few days, so the yeast would be OK after that time. (I think.)

-walker

Winemakers use one campden tablet per gallon of must. Much less than the one tablet per 20 gallons in the howtobrew.com quote. You can pitch your wine after 24 hours. You do want to agitate it a little beforehand to release the built up gasses. So, yes, your thinking is correct.

With all the precautions beer makers use to prevent infection, I have been wondering why people don't sterilize their wort with campden, and then wait 24 hours and pitch. You don't see many if any beer makers doing such a thing, though it is common practice with a lot of winemakers. I wonder why that is....
 
rhinostylee said:
I have brewed two beers now, both of which tasted awesome on bottling day. Unfortunately, they have never tasted that good again. There’s something wrong with my bottling process that is ruining my beer! I think the culprit is chlorine.

For my first batch, I sterilized my beers with bleach water, rinsed, and then actually baked them in the oven to “ultra-sterilize” them (don’t ask me why . . . I was too excited and I guess felt like creating extra work for myself). The beer tasted awesome on bottling day, and ever since then it tastes somewhat yeasty/medicinal. Very unpleasant. Over time, it only gets worse.

For the second batch, I figured that the bleach was the culprit on the first, and soaked brand new bottles in iodophor (sp?), no rinse, let them drain upside down on some sterilized aluminum foil until I bottled it. This batch tasted AMAZING on bottling day, and after bottling, it has developed that same foul taste as the first batch, only not as harsh, but getting worse by the day. AARGGGHHH!!!

I live in LA, which uses chloramine in the water supply. I used the tap water along with the iodophor to sanitize my bottles and everything else. Does the iodophor get rid of the chloramine?

I think that the chloramine is the problem . . . what do you think?

It’s really frustrating to get so close to making a great beer and then having it turn bad before you can drink it. I have yet to have a batch turn out, and I have one more kit of ingredients. If this one doesn’t work out, I think I’m done.


if you think that it may be a tap water problem and it does sound like it

I use 1 step cleaner/sanitizer rinse bottles let drip dry.....
this is what i would do is use bottled water to sanitize bottles and rinse
see if you have the same problem or boil the tap water for 10 mins let cool put bottles and 1 step ......
one step you can get at most hbs or online. :)

i did not read all the post someone all ready sug. bottled water to rinse.....
 
Talked to the guy at my local brewshop . . . he said that LA's water is actually really clean. He said that he rinses everything from the hottest tap water he has after it is sanitized and has no problems.

So my plan of attack is to clean with no rinse, sanitize with iodophor, rinse in hot tap water, and mind the temp of steeping grains. If it still doesn't turn out, I'm going to kill myself, and I'm going to take as many people with me as I can. :cross:
 
Lounge Lizard said:
Winemakers use one campden tablet per gallon of must. Much less than the one tablet per 20 gallons in the howtobrew.com quote. You can pitch your wine after 24 hours. You do want to agitate it a little beforehand to release the built up gasses. So, yes, your thinking is correct.

With all the precautions beer makers use to prevent infection, I have been wondering why people don't sterilize their wort with campden, and then wait 24 hours and pitch. You don't see many if any beer makers doing such a thing, though it is common practice with a lot of winemakers. I wonder why that is....


Why add something that's not necessary. You're wort is bacteria free because you just got boiling it for an hour or more. The reason that wine is sulfated before pitching is because you don't want to boil your juice and set the pectins. You keep it cold and use a cold sterilization tecnique.
 
rhinostylee said:
Talked to the guy at my local brewshop . . . he said that LA's water is actually really clean. He said that he rinses everything from the hottest tap water he has after it is sanitized and has no problems.

So my plan of attack is to clean with no rinse, sanitize with iodophor, rinse in hot tap water, and mind the temp of steeping grains. If it still doesn't turn out, I'm going to kill myself, and I'm going to take as many people with me as I can. :cross:


If your water has chloramine in it, it still won't make good beer. Use botteled water to brew with. Use the tap water for cleaning an sanatizing. You don't need to rinse after the idophor sanatizer.

I had to tell you this because I don't want your blood or anyone elses on my consience.
 
BRITTA BRITTA BRITTA then boil or boil then BRITTA. By the way I took a temperature reading of the hot water in my tap and it's 175 degrees. Is this hot enough to sanitize?
 
ScottT said:
If your water has chloramine in it, it still won't make good beer. Use botteled water to brew with. Use the tap water for cleaning an sanatizing. You don't need to rinse after the idophor sanatizer.

I had to tell you this because I don't want your blood or anyone elses on my consience.

I'd never use tap water to brew with, I've just been questioning if I could use it to rinse and to mix with iodophor to sanitize.

You know what, after reading all of this, I'm convinced that it's tannins from the grains that is ruining my beer. I was anal about sanitization for both brews, not to mention that all of my beer is universally foul in the same way.
 
i use tap water here in germany, i don't worry too much about it, i have a little butane torch that i sanitize the tap with after i take the screen off. i boil the tap water, dump it into the primary(2 1/2 gallons of water) and let it cool, then get my water for the boil. haven't had a problem yet. but i don't think the germans use as many chemicals in thier water as other areas do
 
justbrewit said:
i don't think the germans use as many chemicals in thier water as other areas do

Seems reasonable. I would wager that a lot of the drinking water in germany is clean snow-melt coming down out of the alps.

-walker
 
Walker said:
(a) as long as you don't over heat your grains, you won't extract the tannins.

Though this may not be part of the cause to the original problem (bad taste after bottling), know that, in addition to steeping at the temperatures noted, you should also avoid squeezing the grains to remove the liquid after steeping. This can also release tannins and bad tastes into the wort. Instead, pour about a gallon of 170 degree water over the grains, which will transfer the modest sugars and remaining "good" flavors from the specialty grains into the wort.

Voodoo - 175 degrees does sanitize, provided the things to be sanitized are kept at that temperature for sufficient time (10-15 minutes to be sure). Are you sure its 175? That seems so high for tap water. Most folks say that temperatures 160-170 degrees or higher sanitize, fyi.
 
rhinostylee said:
Assuming that they avoid using yellow snow . . .

urine is sterile. note, I didn't say SANITARY... it is actually STERILE. it might not taste great, but there's nothing in there that needs to be killed.

-walker
 
Thor said:
Though this may not be part of the cause to the original problem (bad taste after bottling), know that, in addition to steeping at the temperatures noted, you should also avoid squeezing the grains to remove the liquid after steeping. This can also release tannins and bad tastes into the wort.

Guilty as charged . . . I pressed my spoon against the grains and squeezed as much of the "good stuff" out as I could . . . a mistake I shan't repeat again! Thank you for the tip!
 
Walker said:
urine is sterile. note, I didn't say SANITARY... it is actually STERILE. it might not taste great, but there's nothing in there that needs to be killed.

-walker

When can we expect your next PPA? (Piss Pale Ale) I can't wait to try it!
 
rhinostylee said:
When can we expect your next PPA? (Piss Pale Ale) I can't wait to try it!


I've had about 10 cups of coffee today, and a batch is ready right now. Do you want it straight out of the tap? :D

-walker
 
Walker said:
I've had about 10 cups of coffee today, and a batch is ready right now. Do you want it straight out of the tap? :D

-walker

You know, as much as I'd love to try it, I have a feeling that I can take a swig of either of my first two batches of homebrew and it will taste about the same!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top