Made my first batch

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NewerBeer

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
I made my first batch from a kit.

I think I made a few mistakes.

I did not ferment long enough and bottled to soon with some included sugar candy things. Had 1 bottle blow up today. Ferment was 8 days bottle about the same.

The beer is very strong tasting lots of alcohol but very little fizz and foam. The bottles open with a loud pop though.

Taste good just super strong.

Any thoughts?
 
Are they in some kind of sturdy secondary container? Cold is better than warm, but handing them is still risky. What size is the batch - how many bottles are we talking about?
 
12 bottles it was a 1 gallon batch

They are not in the container they were inside a cardboard box when they were fermenting in the bottle in my room.

Right now they’re just sitting in the fridge
 
A few thoughts on your problem:
1. At 8 days your beer was probably done fermenting. I have bottled at day 7 without bottle bombs but I got a lot of sediment in my bottles as not all the trub had settled out yet. 2 to 3 weeks before bottling got me much less sediment. To get a bottle to explode you may have simply added too much priming sugar. The "sugar candy things" may have called for 2 per bottle but one might have been sufficient.

2. Your strong alcohol taste is probably from fusel alcohol that the yeast produced because you didn't control the fermentation temperature and the beer got too warm. Try to keep the temperature of the next batches in the 60 to 68F range for better tasting beer. If you do have fusel alcohol in the beer, limit your drinking as it is reported that getting too much fusel alcohol will lead to some wicked headaches then next day.

3. Refrigerating your beer will lower the pressure but will not stop the yeast from making more CO2. Take the bottles out and carefully lift one side of the cap until you hear the CO2 escaping, then recap. It will take several times to get the pressure down to a safe level. This can be done 3 or 4 times a day. If the beer starts to leak foam recap it immediately and then loosen the cap again in a hour or so.

4. Use a hydrometer to tell what the final gravity of your beer is and take at least 2 samples a day or 2 apart so you can verify that your beer is really done fermenting. You need two matching readings to make sure you don't produce bottle bombs. It is possible to still get bottle bombs if you get wild yeast in your beer because the wild yeast can (slowly) eat sugars that your beer yeast cannot and increase the pressure of CO2 in the bottles over time.
 
A few thoughts on your problem:
1. At 8 days your beer was probably done fermenting. I have bottled at day 7 without bottle bombs but I got a lot of sediment in my bottles as not all the trub had settled out yet. 2 to 3 weeks before bottling got me much less sediment. To get a bottle to explode you may have simply added too much priming sugar. The "sugar candy things" may have called for 2 per bottle but one might have been sufficient.

2. Your strong alcohol taste is probably from fusel alcohol that the yeast produced because you didn't control the fermentation temperature and the beer got too warm. Try to keep the temperature of the next batches in the 60 to 68F range for better tasting beer. If you do have fusel alcohol in the beer, limit your drinking as it is reported that getting too much fusel alcohol will lead to some wicked headaches then next day.

3. Refrigerating your beer will lower the pressure but will not stop the yeast from making more CO2. Take the bottles out and carefully lift one side of the cap until you hear the CO2 escaping, then recap. It will take several times to get the pressure down to a safe level. This can be done 3 or 4 times a day. If the beer starts to leak foam recap it immediately and then loosen the cap again in a hour or so.

4. Use a hydrometer to tell what the final gravity of your beer is and take at least 2 samples a day or 2 apart so you can verify that your beer is really done fermenting. You need two matching readings to make sure you don't produce bottle bombs. It is possible to still get bottle bombs if you get wild yeast in your beer because the wild yeast can (slowly) eat sugars that your beer yeast cannot and increase the pressure of CO2 in the bottles over time.
Thank you for the help! Much appreciated. I will burp the bottles.

I do have a question about step number two. When you mention control the temperature is that during the boil of the malt? Or the temperature when adding the yeast after the boil down is done?
 
Thank you for the help! Much appreciated. I will burp the bottles.

I do have a question about step number two. When you mention control the temperature is that during the boil of the malt? Or the temperature when adding the yeast after the boil down is done?
I believe he is referring to the temperature you’re fermenting at. After the mash & boil, cool your wort down to the 60-68° range, add your yeast, and keep it in this range.

Welcome to the hobby! 🍻
 
I just wanted to thank everyone who responded to this thread. The beer is fantastic it taste much better when cold. I burped all my containers and haven’t had a bottle burst. They still have good carbonation.
On a sidenote, I made some soda as well that turned out great. I’m thinking about making my next batch of beer now.
Thanks again everyone and brew on!
 
Back
Top