Hunky said:I've got a couple 1/2" electric drills in stock and a speed reducer coming so will give that a shot until I rig up something a bit better.
I'm curious what kind of forces would be on a 12" sheave (pulley). I'm thinking I could build one out of 3/4" plywood since buying one seems to be in the neighborhood of $37 plus about $30 in shipping (I'm rural Alaska). My lathe motor is 1725 rpm and has a 2" pulley as smallest diameter on a cluster of larger pulleys.
/jd
Bodine gearmotor off e-bay, DC, converted to AC. A lovejoy and a right-angle attachment for a power drill - sits on the bucket, goes anywhere, doesn't take up much space. The rpm is low, torque is high, bet it would crush rocks.
the DC to AC converter box I built (with a little help from an electronics forum)
Here's mine:
After some help from DayTripper and inspiration from ClarnoBrewer I just got finished motorizing my AWESOME Rebel Brewer Mill. This thing is built like a tank and now thats it's powered it has no problem crushing grain!
Thanks to all who have provided me with inspiration and guidance!!
Here's a old pic of mine.
Here's a old pic of mine.
Here's a old pic of mine.
Nice build!
Is that a clapped-out M in the background?
Cheers!
dcbw said:Used an old 1/2HP 1725 RPM motor that came from a planer in my grandfather's wood shop. I used to use a high-torque low-speed D-handle drill from Menards but that bogged down too often even with a 0.45 gap. I don't have that problem anymore.
Correct me if my thinking is wrong, but for easy math say you have a 1" pulley on the motor and a 10" pulley on the mill is the 1/2hp motor exerting 5hp at the mill? That would explain the difference.
dcbw said:Actually 1.5" on the motor and 12" on the mill to get RPM down to about 200-something. But it was also hard to keep the drill speed consistently low enough to mill well but high enough not to bind, and since I had the 1/2 HP motor I was like "how hard can it be?" Turns out it wasn't that hard...
Correct me if my thinking is wrong, but for easy math say you have a 1" pulley on the motor and a 10" pulley on the mill is the 1/2hp motor exerting 5hp at the mill? That would explain the difference.
ChuckO said:The hp stays the same, only the torque increases.
What's the new track car??
TD
30 in-lbs minimumWhat do I look for in a geared motor?
m00se said:total motor n00b here. Is a geared motor what I need if I don't want to use sheaves/pulleys? What do I look for in a geared motor? I'm also toying around the idea of using a harbor freight drill, but the pics in this post look too nice not to build one. I appreciate any help.
TrickyDick said:When I was looking around, I thought that the gear motors available were significantly more expensive, even when you add the cost of the sheaves, which were not cheap either. The 1/2 HP appliance motors are relatively common and cheap, and are overkill for crushing grain. I understand the concern of using sheaves and a 1/2 HP motor turning the big sheave and the danger that poses.
I think the drill idea results in too much rpm on the mill, and probably impossible to dial in the rpm by hand on a reproducible basis. That being said, I did it for a while until I was able to finish my motorization and it worked. I don't really have any recollection of how good or bad my efficiency was back then, as I had other equipment problems that lead to poor efficiency, unrelated to the crush.
I bought all my parts through grainier I believe, (probably why they were $$). I couldn't seem to find the sheaves and related parts on McMaster or elsewhere.
Good luck.
TD
...and who else has a tach on their grain mill?
The new car is an E30 M3 chassis with an S54 in it.[...]
jeepinjeepin said:I'm looking to eventually build a 10:1 gear drive overdrive unit to drive a tach for my mill. Why? Because I have the tach and who else has a tach on their grain mill?
3/4" plywood should be more than sufficient. Just use common sense when putting it together. Use wide bases and box it off the make it stiff in all directions.
Namako said:Uh oh... I can see it now... A Kal-inspired control panel for the grain mill... Tachometer, temp probes in the grain bed and hopper, amp and volt meter, humidity... Where's my drawing pad???
Hang Glider said:So...you'll get to the first two or three blips (x100). I wonder if there's a way to re-calibrate to x10 for a little more "show"
Here's mine:
After some help from DayTripper and inspiration from ClarnoBrewer I just got finished motorizing my AWESOME Rebel Brewer Mill. This thing is built like a tank and now thats it's powered it has no problem crushing grain!
Thanks to all who have provided me with inspiration and guidance!!
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