ClaudiusB
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Done
Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!
- Thread starter SAMPLER
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Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
You may want to get a switch if you want to be able to reverse the motor during normal operation; see my earlier post for what I am putting together.
I got the same model motor from the same ebay seller. It came with a capacitor and die cast terminal box. The capacitor is available from Bodine for $9 in case you need to order one.
PDF of the motor mechanical drawings is attached below; the output shaft is 0.75in. I got a Lovejoy spider coupler at Amazon.com to connect to my MM2 2.0 grinder, which has a 0.5in shaft:
Lovejoy 10621 Size L-AL 075 Solid Type Jaw Coupling Elastomer Spider, SOX/NBR Rubber, 1.75" OD, 0.44" Elastomer Length, 90 in-lbs Nominal Torque
Lovejoy 10685 Size L075 Standard Jaw Coupling Hub, Sintered Iron, Inch, 0.5" Bore, 1.75" OD, 0.82" Length Through Bore, 227 in-lbs Max Nominal Torque,
Lovejoy 10690 Size L075 Standard Jaw Coupling Hub, Sintered Iron, Inch, 0.75" Bore, 1.75" OD, 0.82" Length Through Bore, 227 in-lbs Max Nominal Torque
The motor I got was actually an "OEM special" version of the model and has a different wiring schematic vs. what is on the Bodine website. Bodine support sent me the correct wiring diagram, attached below.
View attachment 07410021.pdf
View attachment infs1152-1.a.pdf
Copbrew133
Well-Known Member
If it helps I have a build thread on here. I cant do links right now, but I used the bodine 220vac with a teco fm50 phase converter and made a 12 ft extension cordto my dryer recept. It allows complete rpm control through digitally controlling the hertz. Teco was like 50 bucks on ebay. It also reverses at the press of a button. Also has a parts list on the thread.
Copbrew133
Well-Known Member
Here's a couple pics.
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Borgstrom,
Thanks for that info!!
Sorry for being so electrically challenged but I'm not too savvy on where the capacitor and SPDT switch would go in that diagram. I was planning on doing it this way: http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Sam's-Motorized-Grain-Mill (colored photo about 3/4 way down the page on the left).
Does your Bodine capacitor fit in the terminal box?
Copbrew133,
Pretty badass! Do you have a close up of how you mounted your motor? It looks pretty clean.
Thanks for that info!!
Sorry for being so electrically challenged but I'm not too savvy on where the capacitor and SPDT switch would go in that diagram. I was planning on doing it this way: http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Sam's-Motorized-Grain-Mill (colored photo about 3/4 way down the page on the left).
Does your Bodine capacitor fit in the terminal box?
Copbrew133,
Pretty badass! Do you have a close up of how you mounted your motor? It looks pretty clean.
Copbrew133
Well-Known Member
Thank you, Its a mount from Bodine Direct made for these motors.
drunkenmonk
Well-Known Member
I put a two way switch into my gear motor setup. Overall instructions and wiring diagram are here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/motorized-monster-mill-build-373083/
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Borgstrom,
I just received my Bodine OEM motor today and had a question on the wiring. The diagram shows 5 wires but mine only has 4; blue, red, white and black. My plan was to use the diagram on Sam's Wort-O-Matic site but I'm a little confused now. How did you wire yours?
Thanks
Every motor is different, so you may have to alter your reference design wiring diagram based on the actual motor you are using. I used the wiring diagram provided by Bodine support (CONNECTION DIAGRAM 07410021; see one of my previous posts) during my testing phase. If you want to make the motor reversible with a switch, then it gets a bit more complex; my switch design (still untested; waiting on parts) is also shown in an earlier post. I'm not really familiar with Sam's Wort-O-Matic design, but it doesn't appear to be reversible so it should be pretty straightforward to map the Bodine wiring diagram to his design. EDIT: His diagram actually is for a reversible motor, so you may have to think it through a bit more to make sure the connections are as you wish when the switch is in each direction. END EDIT
One thing to check is the rotation of the motor; by default I think it is clockwise, which would mean your mill would be turned counter clockwise when coupled to the motor. You can change the motor to CCW by swaping the wires as specified in the motor wiring diagram.
I rebuilt mine to grind directly into the MT:
You roll it over the MT, mill in place, then roll it out. There is also a retractable shelf (not shown in this pic) and a lower shelf so I can also mill directly to a bucket if I choose and it also allows me some horizontal storage space when I'm not using it.
You roll it over the MT, mill in place, then roll it out. There is also a retractable shelf (not shown in this pic) and a lower shelf so I can also mill directly to a bucket if I choose and it also allows me some horizontal storage space when I'm not using it.
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Holy brewing setup Batman! Very nice - that's about the most badass setup I've seen!
alphaomega
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Greetings from Sweden!
I just wanted to show off my low cost solution to motorizing a monster mill.
I used a cheap electric meat grinder and some junk I had at home to build the shaft coupling.
Meat grinder connected to the mill. A strap to hold it in place while milling helps.
Close up of shaft coupling. I used a 10mm pipe compression fitting for the axle from the mill. In the other end of the compression fitting, the hacked off end of a bit screwdriver.
The drive shaft from the mill.
Some bits parts to make the shaft. A 5/16 socket fits the driveshaft of the grinder nicely.
Close up of compression fitting and the hacked off screwdriver.
This is probably the DIY project that I'm most satisfied with. Main points are:
Skål!
I just wanted to show off my low cost solution to motorizing a monster mill.
I used a cheap electric meat grinder and some junk I had at home to build the shaft coupling.
Meat grinder connected to the mill. A strap to hold it in place while milling helps.
Close up of shaft coupling. I used a 10mm pipe compression fitting for the axle from the mill. In the other end of the compression fitting, the hacked off end of a bit screwdriver.
The drive shaft from the mill.
Some bits parts to make the shaft. A 5/16 socket fits the driveshaft of the grinder nicely.
Close up of compression fitting and the hacked off screwdriver.
This is probably the DIY project that I'm most satisfied with. Main points are:
Cheap, the meat grinder set me back about 70 bucks at a local HW store.
Pretty much only off the shelf stuff. Easy to source.
Compact (well, at least I think so compared to large sheaves)
Meat grinder has reverse, in case it gets stuck (but it doesn't...)
No destructive modifications, I could still grind meat (not like I'd ever actually DO that)
Skål!
WoodHokie4
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Anyone have any experience with this type of grinder? If the mechanics worked for malts, it wiuldnt be hard to motorize it
WoodHokie4 said:
What you have there is a corona mill. Works great for grinding nixtamalized corn kernels into masa dough. It will pulverize your malt into flour and is only recommended as a last resort for malt. I do not think you will get a satisfactory crush for all grain with this mill though I know folks will contest the subject.
Not worth the effort to motorized that unless you're trying to make tortillas. Also, when set at finest setting, you can get some metal pieces into your corn. I'm interested in a better mill of corn, as these things IMHO are garbage.
TD
Barley Crusher mounted on an old Red Lobster Cabinet.
lpdjshaw
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Thanks for all the great info guys - I could've never figured all this out on my own.
purplehaze
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Nice build Hayseed. Looks like it going to turn pretty fast with that pulley.
NickN72
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I think your recommendations here are a little strong. There are many people on here, myself included, who use corona mills and have very good results. They aren't as nice as a good roller mill, but are also much cheaper. I regularly get 80% efficiency with mine and have never had a stuck sparge. I am currently working on motorizing mine by putting a pulley on the drive.
I would agree with TrickyDick... I would not use that mill unless it was a last resort... Stranded on a desert island type of last resort... If you can't afford a good mill, use a friends, use the homebrew shops mill, or buy your grain milled...
Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
No disrespect intended. Just saying if your going to go through the cost and trouble to motorize a mill, seems like going to a roller mill would be better money spent. I recently saw a corona mill in a respected brewing book by Greg Noonan, so I don't doubt that it'll work.
TD
TD
Agreed, no disrespect meant here either, but it *IS* a post To show off motorized grain mills that you have built, it is 382 posts long, whereas the corona mill thread has 1576 posts...
To stay on topic, here is my latest addition to my mill, a hopper that can hold a ton of grain...
To stay on topic, here is my latest addition to my mill, a hopper that can hold a ton of grain...
Has anybody ever tried this??????
I tore down a heavy duty porter cable model 725 portable band saw for its motor.
The only info I could find that on slow setting it goes 195rpm and fast speed it goes 245 with a 90 deg worm drive.
Horse power is questionable. The only thing I could find is when I tore apart the trigger which had a label of 1 HP. Is this the HP of the saw motor or just what that switch is capable of?
Anyway I figure if ppl are using drills then this should work. It can cut metal 3 inches thick.
Thoughts anyone??
I tore down a heavy duty porter cable model 725 portable band saw for its motor.
The only info I could find that on slow setting it goes 195rpm and fast speed it goes 245 with a 90 deg worm drive.
Horse power is questionable. The only thing I could find is when I tore apart the trigger which had a label of 1 HP. Is this the HP of the saw motor or just what that switch is capable of?
Anyway I figure if ppl are using drills then this should work. It can cut metal 3 inches thick.
Thoughts anyone??
sar_dog_1 said:
That sounds like a monster of a motor. 1 HP is a lot of power. Most important is torque though. 1 HP is more than enough, and I do not believe that electrical switches are rated for HP, only voltage and amperage mainly. You may be able to use that for a direct drive setup without need for sheaves, etc.
Motor or girlfriend?
Haha, complicated process. I threat my girlfriend with this to spin the mill for me!
"Well, actually"...
Switches are often rated in units of electrical horsepower.
P(hp) = P(W) / 746
Which indicates a 1HP rated switch is good for up to 746 watts...
Cheers!
Thanks tricky and day! I guess we will have to wait and see what she does. The rpms are a little high but it will have to do. Maby I can use a pot switch in place of the hi-low switch. I am supposed to have 143 rpms using the 15ft per sec rule.
YNOT2K
Well-Known Member
Thanks to this great thread I just finished mine. Free Bodine 90 deg gear motor, diy hopper, $3.00 microwave cart from Goodwill, and a Monster Mill 2 roller.
Copbrew133
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Dude, that's sharp!
srice
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Great thread since I am getting ready to add a motor to my mill. I thought I was going to be lucky because I knew I had an old 1/2hp motor in a cabinet, but unfortunately it is a 3450 rpm motor. I then had a friend offer up a broken drill press - the rack and pinion for raising the table is trashed. The motor is a 3/4 hp 1725 rpm motor and is has a dual pulley system which will take the speed down to 190 rpm. Anybody try using the pulley system and motor from a drill press before?
BethelLight
Active Member
Nice! Here's mine....
Huaco
Well-Known Member
^^^^^^
You. Must. Provide. Specs!
That thing is WAAAAAY too much of a beast to leave us hanging like you did!
You. Must. Provide. Specs!
That thing is WAAAAAY too much of a beast to leave us hanging like you did!
FredTheNuke
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MM3-2.0 with hardened rollers. 1 horsepower Grizzly motor. Sheaves are Martin with a 178 rpm calculated mill speed.
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Belt tensioner. Genius!
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Wow, now that's a motor!
BethelLight
Active Member
It is basically a cabinet I built to the dimensions of the 8 gal bucket that I wanted to collect grain in. I took the wheels off of a cheap dolly I bought at Harbor Freight.
The motor is a 1/2 hp variable speed gear-motor. It may be a little more powerful than needed but I really liked the built in variable speed. It can be adjusted from 64-384 rpm. They can be expensive new but I got this one off of a guy on craigslist for $120.
Thanks for the kind words!
