Making a Birch Keezer (lots of pics!)

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Cynapse

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After finishing up my garage I decided it was time to start my keezer project with my father-in-law. I've been reading and studying for quite a while and felt it was time to dive in head first myself.

I started by buying the chest freezer a couple months ago. I went with a new Igloo 10.0 cubic foot FRF1049 from Best Buy and paid $250 for it. The pic on the website isn't accurate at all to the actual size, it is roughly 43"x24"x34". http://www.bestbuy.com/site/igloo-10-0-cu-ft-chest-freezer-white/1542583.p?id=1219054918686

The interior dimensions will fit 6 corny kegs, so I decided to make a 5 tap keezer with my 10lb CO2 tank hosted inside. The hump can hold some spare beers, or I have a 2.5g and a 3g corny also I could swap into one of the lines.

I decided to make it out of birch after checking out the wood selection at my local Lowes. The pattern of the wood was just really great, and I can't stand the look of oak, it just reminds me too much of the furniture in my parents house growing up in the 1980's. Little did I realize that (apparently) birch is notoriously difficult to stain evenly. That is a problem for another day though and I am definitely doing my homework via youtube and online blogs.

Here is the start of the base well under construction already. We used some nice scrap 3/4" plywood for the base, supported by 2x4s and secured with counter-sunk screws. We used threaded carriage bolts to hold the casters. We also accidentally mounted the locking casters a bit too close to edge, so when locked they caught a bit on the framing. Nothing a chisel couldn't carve out though. >_>

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Here's a shot of the bottom. You'll notice that some of the 2x4s are thinner than 2x4s...We were originally going to line the pine supports up flush directly with the bottom, then quickly realized it would have more strength if we were able to screw them directly into the 2x4 base supporting the whole structure. A quick couple trips through the table saw and we're ready to do that. :) 3" casters supporting 250lb each, so we're well within the 500-600lbs this should weigh when complete.

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Here's a shot of the front with the finished birch plywood attached. Yes, we used screws to secure everything tightly. I've seen a lot of builds on here using straight glue, but we don't have the patience for it since the screws will be covered up by the veneer that boxes everything in anyway. These pieces were purchased in the size you see them, somehow we got really lucky and the two front panels are a perfect match from the same sheet and the grain lines up perfectly, which we think is very cool.

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Here's a shot of the side. The birch plywood was just a bit shorter than the box length we needed so we used some scrap on the end, which will all be covered up by the veneer.

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Here's a shot of the interior. You can see we backed it all with pine, and we reinforced all the joints with some steel bracketing for extra support (making sure our screws were the right length and didn't punch through the front of course :)). We also drilled a couple big holes out in the bottom to allow for extra airflow just for kicks, figured it couldn't hurt and you'd never see it.

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Here's the first piece of veneer we glued on (sorry, I'm sure there is a better/more appropriate word for these pieces but I can't think of one right now). This is on the left side of the freezer, and you can see it covers the screws up nicely. Since the 3" casters keep this well off the ground, we decided to let the veneer overhang the bottom a bit to help hide the wheels. We used Gorilla wood glue.

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This is an inside shot opposite the one above. We don't have enough clamps to do a lot of the gluing all at the same time, so we counter sunk some very precisely measured screws and screwed into the piece being glued from the inside, but obviously without penetrating the veneer. For what it is worth, this worked extremely well.

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Here's as far as we made it after our 2nd day of work. You can see the veneer on the right is thinner than the one on the left. The front panel veneer will sit directly on top of this, thus extending it by another ~3/4" so they should be exactly the same thickness when done, but with a seam obviously. Neither one of us wanted to go through the pain of mitering the edges together on the table saw, we just didn't think we'd be able to get it to look good at all, so we decided to go with a seam on the sides. We'll finish this veneer up with the bottom middle piece to complete the square next weekend.

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That wraps it up until next weekend. We're hoping to get all of the veneer on and glued, and then we can get the freezer in the box and start to work on the top. I'll continue to post updates as we progress on the build!

~Cyn
 
Looks amazing so far. Very similar to what I'm planning in the future. Can't wait to see the finished result and what you have planned for the top. Good luck with the staining.
Cheers
 
Birch plywood and pine can end up blotchy but its easy to avoid. Just sand well and treat the wood with a store bought pre-stain conditioner or apply a coat of boiled linseed oil cut with mineral spirits before staining. It will help the stain absorb more evenly. It can cause your stain to go on lighter than you may expect so test on a piece of scrap to get the method down first.
 
Hobbes88 - Thanks and good luck with your keezer when you start it!

neild5 - I wasn't planning to put a cooling fan in, but I could probably attach one if needed. This is going to sit in an insulated garage in Southern California so I'm not too concerned about the amount of times it is going to come on if I hold the temperature at 35-40 degrees. My freezer compressor venting is on the right-hand side panel instead of the back unfortunately, but I'm considering using a stainless grate on the side to give it better airflow to the compressor while also maintaining a nice finished look. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-BOAT-VENT-LOUVERED-VENTILATOR-VENT-NEW-4-1-2-BY-9-1-8-/121107210656?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1c328d61a0&vxp=mtr

November - Thanks for the tips! I watched a long youtube video that highlighted a similar method, blending shellac with denaturated alcohol and then using a gel stain. I am going to try that route on a piece of spare birch plywood I have from the build so I can test the color. Right now I'm leaning towards General Finishes Georgian Cherry and finishing it with General Finishes Gel Topcoat in satin.
 
Hey Cynapse,
Are you able to give me the inside dimensions on the Igloo 10.0. I want to make a keezer with this same one but i would like to have the option for a half barrel.
 
77bawls - Yeah I sealed it with a 1lb cut of shellac! I started staining last night, I need to post more pics.

sv5622 - I will get you dimensions later today when I get home, it should definitely fit a half barrel since it fits two cornys without offsetting (2x 8.5" = 17" and half barrel is ~16" usually).
 
Sorry it has been so long, been busy...here are a bunch of updates and pics from my last 3 weekends of work on this baby.

Finally got the rest of the box put together and the freezer loaded in. Here's a nice shot of the front.
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Side.
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Top, you can see the countersunk screws. There are only 5 because we planned to use 2 more to bolt the tower to the top as well, for a total of 7.
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Shot of the inside, we used a piece of plywood to distribute the load more widely, and used big washers as well.
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Shot of the corner.
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Look at that miter! The piece of wood was obviously the same and even the grains lined up. We were pretty excited, and we got a very similar clean result throughout this project.
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Gluing the front pieces on.
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My father-in-law pre-constructed the box and we were able to just screw/bolt it on directly.
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Here's a shot with some unsecured, dry fitter insulation.
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You can see we cut some 3" pipe couplers in half to give it a more finished look, and function as a stopper so the pipe wouldn't slip through.
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We used a router to grind down the drip tray. We intend to have the tray sit flush on top of the tile, and have the tile sit nearly flush next to the wood pieces mitered on the top.
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You can't see it, but we drilled a hole for a drain in the drip tray as well, which I plan to run tubing to a 1 gallon jug or something to catch any spilled beer (heaven forbid...). Here's a pic of the tray dry fitted.
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Gluing the tap board to the front!
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And not long after, we drilled the holes and fitted a tap to see how things went. I originally bought 4" shanks, but returned them and got 5" shanks instead. The 4" would have worked but I didn't account for the 3/4" of insulation behind the wood, so only the nipple would have stuck out really.
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As you can see, I went with the adjustable Perlick faucets. I figured it would make more sense to just have one CO2 manifold at the same pressure, and adjust each faucet as need depending on the style of beer.
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I looked around for tile at many local SoCal tile stores, but didn't have much luck finding something that would look good with the red stain I wanted to use. I ended up finding this at Home Depot for ~$16 sq/ft. I'm thinking I might use it vertically instead of horizontally.
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Shot of the finished front!
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And the side.
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Here's how we finished it off towards the back of the tower. I didn't see a lot of photos showing this so I figured I would show how we did it.
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After a crapton of reading about staining birch I decided to use a 1lb cut of shellac to help seal the wood more uniformly (1 part of full strength shellac mixed with 1 part of denatured alcohol). It is hard to see, but you can tell it is a bit shinier here.
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We decided to miter the top as well to keep all of the "top" pieces uniform (meaning everything bolted to the top of the keezer was mitered, everything on the bottom was not).
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Here's how we are sealing the back. Those with sharp eyes will notice this is oak and not birch, but we had a spare piece of oak plywood and figured you wouldn't ever see it, so no reason to spend more money (and worse yet, another trip to the store) to have the back made of birch.
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Annnnd here's a couple shots after the first coat of stain. I'm using General Finishes Georgian Cherry gel stain.
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That's all for now. The staining process is going slow, it probably took me 3.5 hours to do the first coat. I did it all in one session too and won't be doing that again...I did the 2nd coat on the top parts tonight and will get the 2nd coat tomorrow. I'm guessing I'll need at least 3 coats, maybe 4 according to how my test pieces stained.

Hit me up with any questions!
 
Great build!! I think the size of the igloo 10 would be perfect for what I am looking for. 1/2 barrel and 1/4 barrel and 5 lb co2 tank. Best buy does not have any floor models to measure interior, and I can't find exact dimensions for it online. Could you please post what the interior dimensions are, I want to see if the miller 1/2 barrels closer to 17" in diameter will fit. Thanks!!!
 
Hi Cynapse,

First off, this is a great post and you have done a fantastic job detailing your build. This is nearly exactly what I am looking to build. Quick Q when you get a chance. What is the process like for changing kegs. Is the top attached to the chest freezer door in which case you just pull the unit out from the wall to allow clearance for the tap tower or do you pull the freezer out of the box.. Thanks in advance
 
That looks amazing. I think anybody would be proud to display that in their home. Kudos!
 
Wow, it has been an epic journey, but the keezer is finally done and I wanted to update everyone on the (mostly) final progress.

Here it is, all stained and clear coated.
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Four coats of Georgian Cherry Stain:
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Four coats of satin clear coat:
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Granite tile base and glass backsplash grouted vertically, all tile work and grouting done by my beautiful wife:
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Everything fit perfect in the end. :) The drip tray fit super snug (my wife does a great job with tile).
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The tap handles are in progress. My father-in-law (the one I constructed the keezer with) has a lathe, so the two taps on it are hand spun. The light one with the blue markings was made by my wife and the blue is my son's hand print.

I still have some plumbing to do, I am about to install my 3rd keg this weekend, and currently I haven't hooked up my CO2 distribution block yet. I bought a 6-way splitter for just the occasion. I will have to post separate pics of the interior when I get a chance, I have the fans run and the thermostat mounted in the back of the tower.

Hit me up with any questions, will try to answer them!
 
Hi Cynapse,

First off, this is a great post and you have done a fantastic job detailing your build. This is nearly exactly what I am looking to build. Quick Q when you get a chance. What is the process like for changing kegs. Is the top attached to the chest freezer door in which case you just pull the unit out from the wall to allow clearance for the tap tower or do you pull the freezer out of the box.. Thanks in advance

Hi Moleary33,

Everything is attached to the top of the keezer, I lift the kegs in and out of through the top. You can see how I did this in post #11 of this thread, the 4th picture is a good shot of the plywood attached to the top of the keezer. It is really difficult to open, the top is seriously heavy with the granite. I'd like to find a good way to add some hydraulic shocks or something on the inside so I can open it without needing another person...
 
Hi Moleary33,

Everything is attached to the top of the keezer, I lift the kegs in and out of through the top. You can see how I did this in post #11 of this thread, the 4th picture is a good shot of the plywood attached to the top of the keezer. It is really difficult to open, the top is seriously heavy with the granite. I'd like to find a good way to add some hydraulic shocks or something on the inside so I can open it without needing another person...

Ya, I am going to have to start looking into a solution for lifting my top too. My top is ~60inch wide by 36 and I feel that it is going to be very heavy once it is all tiled.
 
I just purchased this freezer from the best buy website... Can you tell me how many 6.5 gallon carboys would fit in there?
I was hoping to get 4 of them and have some hump space for yeast etc
 
Birch plywood and pine can end up blotchy but its easy to avoid. Just sand well and treat the wood with a store bought pre-stain conditioner or apply a coat of boiled linseed oil cut with mineral spirits before staining. It will help the stain absorb more evenly. It can cause your stain to go on lighter than you may expect so test on a piece of scrap to get the method down first.


I realize that this is an older thread, but if anyone is considering working with birch, you might consider using gel stain in lieu of traditional stain. I used General Finishes gel stain on a pine bookcase I made for my son, and I had no blotching.
 
I just purchased this freezer from the best buy website... Can you tell me how many 6.5 gallon carboys would fit in there?
I was hoping to get 4 of them and have some hump space for yeast etc

I measured and the open space is ~27.75" x 18", hopefully that helps with your math on the carboys (I'm not sure how big they are).
 
I realize that this is an older thread, but if anyone is considering working with birch, you might consider using gel stain in lieu of traditional stain. I used General Finishes gel stain on a pine bookcase I made for my son, and I had no blotching.

This was my first ever staining project. I used General Finishes Satin Gel stain as well, and it seemed relatively forgiving for my first time staining. I had to use about 4 coats to get the result I posted.
 

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