Has anyone bought a controller from electricbiab.com

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Yep, that was pretty much my feedback too. Longer thermocouple wire, longer power cord between the controller and the brew pot, and a bonus would be network access to control it remotely. But other than, really well done!

I found the probe in a weld-less thermowell to be accurate within a couple degrees of a separate dial thermometer. So close enough for me to be able to adjust the set points and be right on.
 
OK Guys,

Finished my first brew with the picoBrew eBIAB system. I did a Scotch Ale with an OG of 1.075. To be honest, there isn't much to the process that is different from a normal AG session, other than you don't have to babysit the process. This was my first time doing BIAB, so I probably encountered some newbie issues with that process, that have nothing to do with the picoBrew.

One issue I had was the brew pots I own (Thunder Group Alu 15 gallon) have slightly wider versus vertical proportions. So it was difficult to clamp the bag to the top of the pot and 5 gallons of water is only a little ways over the element, so there is no good way to keep the bag off of the element (my original idea was going to be in a strainer, but I would need 10 gallons of water just to cover the grains). The bag survived other than the slight tear that happened when I went to pull it out. It got caught on the element. The solution to this is probably to replicate the complete picoBrew system's recirculating wort feature. I need to think about that one some more.

I did run into one software/hardware issue. When it went to the boil step, the element didn't kick on, even though the software and console reported it at full power. I had to reset the system and work through the menus on the console to get back to the boil step. It would be nice if you could just select the current step from a drop-down menu in the desktop application.

My last issue was I still don't have a good way to get the wort cooled quickly and without a mess. I'm in RI, so in another month the weather will take care of that issue for me, but even in November, the tap water is at 60 - 70 degrees so the immersion chiller just isn't cutting it. I tried to pump the wort through the chiller this time with it in a bucket of water with some ice, but it still took a good hour or so to cool it, and it just made a mess when it came time to disconnect the lines. I can get down to 90 - 100 degrees pretty quick, but that last 20 is just a PITA. Is a plate chiller going to make that much of a difference? Or do I need to just find some really cold water and/or a lot of ice?

At any rate, the wort's in the fermenter, room is at 70, and the yeasties are going like crazy. So we'll see what we got in a couple weeks!

:mug:

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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152036209578834&l=4845095172330593975
 
What was your efficiency? Other than the software hiccup, were the any other things you wish you could change about the controller? Thinking about pulling the trigger on one soon
 
I hit my gravity, so I would say it was dead on 72% which was what Beersmith estimated it to be. Not the controller. It's does what it is supposed to, but my thoughts now are it is best as a complete system (full recirculation, etc...) which it was intended as. I think if all you want is controlling of SSRs and monitoring of temperatures, the BCS 460 maybe more up your alley. But this is definitely more turnkey.
 
I already use recirculating ebiab, just with a generic pwm control. I wanted something just like this, but with my limited programming skills and electrical know-how, there is no way I could build it for this price and get it to actually work.
 
You could make a second immersion chiller to run the tap water through ice, then into the second chiller which is in the wort and discharge to the sink or down the driveway.

We are on a deep private well so our water is fairly cold year round but like you I can get it to 90 really fast but much lower than that takes a bit.
 
Is anyone using this on multiple vessels? I would use it to heat up my HLT and then control the pump for strike and sparge water. I don't need to recirculate since my cooler tun keeps temp. I would then switch plug into the BK for boil. Would this system be over kill and would it work? Pricing out building something simple for myself to do the above process, this looks cheaper.
 
@sennister

Thanks. Yes, that's what I'll essentially do once I have some free ice courtesy of mother nature. In the warmer months I'll need to invest in some sort of chiller system. Not sure what is available for the homebrewer market though.
 
@OatStraw

It's possible with the manual mode, but it's designed to do the BIAB in one pot process. It only has one temperature sensor input, so you could only control one heating/temperature monitoring process at a time. So it couldn't heat sparge water and monitor mash temperature at the same time.
 
@OatStraw

Not sure what type it uses. I extended the length of mine with some CAT3 cable and RJ-45 connectors and couplers. I found the included probe works fine in a thermowell.
 
You may want to talk to the developer to see if having a probe in the boil kettle is even necessary when using manual mode. One would think that it would not be necessary, as the software is ignoring the probe information anyway. On some PIDs, as long as a probe is connected, manual mode will work, so you could leave a probe in the HLT and drive the BK element on manual.
 
jeffmeh said:
You may want to talk to the developer to see if having a probe in the boil kettle is even necessary when using manual mode. One would think that it would not be necessary, as the software is ignoring the probe information anyway. On some PIDs, as long as a probe is connected, manual mode will work, so you could leave a probe in the HLT and drive the BK element on manual.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff, I didn't know it worked like that for PIDs in manual mode. I was afraid the temp would throw things way off. You are right I don't care what the BK temp is. Boiling is Boiling.
 
OatStraw said:
Thanks Jeff, I didn't know it worked like that for PIDs in manual mode. I was afraid the temp would throw things way off. You are right I don't care what the BK temp is. Boiling is Boiling.
Click to expand...

Fyi, this controller is technically not a pid and doesn't have a typical manual mode. Check out the website and look through the manual, it explains everything.
If you wanted to use this controller for a bk, you would have to have a probe
 
trboyden said:
@sennister

Thanks. Yes, that's what I'll essentially do once I have some free ice courtesy of mother nature. In the warmer months I'll need to invest in some sort of chiller system. Not sure what is available for the homebrewer market though.
Click to expand...

If you have some empty ice cream buckets you could freeze them to make a couple blocks of ice. If you don't have any buckets, lucky you, time to eat some ice cream. Or if you have some of those reusable cooler freezer blocks that would work too but not as fun as eating a couple gallons of ice cream.
 
Finally giving my controller it's maiden voyage! Man, this thing works slick. I didn't start until late this evening, so I am going totally aussy. No chill and all. I'm going to transfer the wort right after the boil to my conical and pitch the yeast in the morning. Doing a 90 minute boil so I boil off most of those dms precursors. I guess we will find out how this ends up. Also putting my pulley, bag, hops bag trio from mr wilser to use for the first time. That pulley worked perfectly as well. Love my new setup so far. Also as a side note, I don't see the purpose of a false bottom apparatus to keep the bag off the element, most of the time it's not even firing.
 
Yeah, that is probably what kept my bag from burning through or melting onto the element. Plus supposedly the element itself doesn't get that hot when it is firing (in water/wort), though I ain't going to test that theory myself... ;) For me, the issue was more the bag got wrapped up around the element as the grains settled. So it was a ***** to get it unwrapped and not burn myself on the wort (or infect it). If it was a straight element, I could fashion a cover pretty easily, but the wavy design makes that a lot more complicated. Still thinking that one over.

swem said:
Finally giving my controller it's maiden voyage....
Click to expand...
 
So I just started playing with my controller (took some time to get the 240 outlet in) and I seemed to have some trouble controlling the element. The SSR wouldn't turn off even when the controller said it was off. I had to pull the plug after it overshot 40 degrees. Anyone else have any problems???
I'm going to email the guy that made it and see what he says.

Update: He emailed me back within 30 mins with a few possible solutions and said if they don't work, he will replace it no charge. We'll see what works
 
Yes, he responds quickly, great customer service!

Because SSRs don't utilize a normally open or normally closed circuit design, this seems to be a common issue with them. They are greatly susceptible to leakage current on the control or load side which can keep them turned on. Excessive heat can also cause it to stay on. Most of the technical solutions I've seen involve adding a resistor on the control or load side or both to ensure they get to the turn off voltage. In this case, where the SSR is being controlled by the computer, it could also be getting contradictory signals (manual control signal says turn off, but temperature control signal says turn on) if there is a software bug. A voltage meter would give more evidence to go on.

This is just general advice on SSRs/controllers and not directed at this particular product.
 
Holy ****! 40 degrees over. Yikes. My temp varies at most 3 degrees with no pump, just stirring. I have it in manual mode the whole time as well.
 
trboyden said:
Yes, he responds quickly, great customer service!

Because SSRs don't utilize a normally open or normally closed circuit design, this seems to be a common issue with them. They are greatly susceptible to leakage current on the control or load side which can keep them turned on. Excessive heat can also cause it to stay on. Most of the technical solutions I've seen involve adding a resistor on the control or load side or both to ensure they get to the turn off voltage. In this case, where the SSR is being controlled by the computer, it could also be getting contradictory signals (manual control signal says turn off, but temperature control signal says turn on) if there is a software bug. A voltage meter would give more evidence to go on.

This is just general advice on SSRs/controllers and not directed at this particular product.
Click to expand...

Do you know if the developer is currently in the process of fixing this issue?
 
732Brewer said:
Do you know if the developer is currently in the process of fixing this issue?
Click to expand...
He is aware of the problem and is releasing a firmware update very soon. He beta tested it this past weekend.

Also, if 732 it's your area code, I think we are neighbors
 
drewmedic23 said:
He is aware of the problem and is releasing a firmware update very soon. He beta tested it this past weekend.

Also, if 732 it's your area code, I think we are neighbors
Click to expand...

Yup, just placed my order today. Seems like a really nice unit.
 
just ordered the DIY kit and a 25 gal. pot and cant wait. today im getting a 240v spa panel installed. anyone know how long it takes to get delivered?
 
just got mine. the housing is snap on stuff so it was kind of out of place when i got it. i guess it keeps the cost down. i might transfer the thing to a better enclosed housing. never turned the thing on yet, so we'll see how it goes.
 
inda_bebe said:
just got mine. the housing is snap on stuff so it was kind of out of place when i got it. i guess it keeps the cost down. i might transfer the thing to a better enclosed housing. never turned the thing on yet, so we'll see how it goes.
Click to expand...

I took mine apart because I was curious of what went into it and also was curious if it could be transplanted into something like an Aluminum project box.

The biggest issue is the integrated power and USB connectors on the side of the Arduino circuit board. If they were header connectors it would be easy to extend them to the side of a new case, but they're soldered directly to the board, so it limits the size and shape of your case. I'm handy with an iron, but I prefer not to mess with something I like and spent a bunch of money on.

For me, I like the unit and the only change I would really want to make is to change the way the power cords and temperature probe cable is handled. I'd rather have outlets on the box or on an external power brick that the bulkie cords can be plugged into. The control box itself doesn't have the weight to keep the cords from pulling it all over the place, and because of the way the screen is mounted, it's difficult to mount in a convenient place like on the wall. Ideally I'd rotate the display upside down so it could be mounted on the wall with the angled front pointing up, letting the cables hang below.
 
I am wondering if this controller would be capable of controlling a Brutus 20 type system or the upcoming two kettle BrewEasy from Blichmann in full auto mode without any changes. It seems that all the same inputs are there and you are still only heating one kettle. The controller shouldn't care whether you recirc the wort to the same or a second kettle.

Would seem to provide more brewing options.

Just a thought.
 
im putting the sensor in a compresstion fitting after the pump so that its getting a better reading while the wort is recirculating.

for boiling, i was thinking of modifying the controller and put a PWM switch before the SSR so that i can control the power of the boil w/out a sensor in the wort. any ideas where to start?
 
inda_bebe said:
im putting the sensor in a compresstion fitting after the pump so that its getting a better reading while the wort is recirculating.

for boiling, i was thinking of modifying the controller and put a PWM switch before the SSR so that i can control the power of the boil w/out a sensor in the wort. any ideas where to start?
Click to expand...

Without going back through and checking - I would think there wouldn't be any need to add and additional PWM switch for boil control if you move the sensor. Boil control should just be a set % of power and not dependant on temp. Double check before you add extras that might not be needed.
 
mattd2 said:
Without going back through and checking - I would think there wouldn't be any need to add and additional PWM switch for boil control if you move the sensor. Boil control should just be a set % of power and not dependant on temp. Double check before you add extras that might not be needed.
Click to expand...


the only thing is that you cant manually change the percentage of the boil. its only adjusted by the sensor.
 
Just wanted to add to this thread that I purchased this system and had my second brew day on it this past weekend. Took me a few weeks to get all the wiring done but other than that everything else came ready to go. This system is a breeze to use. I managed to hit 72% efficiency on a big beer without any kind of bag squeezing or pouring water over the grain bag.

I also cannot say enough about the support you get from the creator of this system. I have emailed him countless times both before buying and afterwards and he is always quick to respond with a thoughtful response and advice.
 
augiedoggy said:
the pid has no manual mode?
edit* never mind I just read through the rest of the thread again.... that sucks.
Click to expand...

There is no manual mode per se but there are settings to allow you to change the way the PID sensor behaves. By adjusting the the PwrS, PwrM and PwrL values you can dial in whatever kind of boil you want. Manual mode would be nice but once you get things dialed in I don't think its really necessary. This is from the manual for common settings based on volume:

Default values for temperature Control Parameters are as follows and are designed for optimized for a 10 gallon batch (approximately 13 gallon liquid volume).
PwrS = 75%
PwrM = 35%
PwrL = 40%
Delta T1 = 6 degrees F
Delta T2 = 3 degrees F

Suggested values for a 5 gallon batch (8 gallon liquid volume):
PwrS = 50%
PwrM = 10%
PwrL = 20%
Delta T1 = 6 degrees F
Delta T2 = 3 degrees F

My first 5gallon batch I left the settings on default and had almost 2 gal/hr boil off rate. The 2nd batch I adjusted based on the manual and was close to my normal 1 gal/hr. I also think it would be pretty easy for the creator to add a manual mode in if enough people wanted it. I've already received a firmware update that added new features since I bought mine.
 
I don't think it needs to be that complicated. You can set the boil temp set point on the fly. So in my case I normally run around 212 for a pretty good roiling boil. If it appears a bit too aggressive, I back it off to 211 or 210 and the controller/element adjusts appropriately. In manual mode on the heater, using the up/down arrows on the touch screen adjusts the power %, and performs the same effect as turning a dimmer knob up and down.
 
trboyden said:
I don't think it needs to be that complicated. You can set the boil temp set point on the fly. So in my case I normally run around 212 for a pretty good roiling boil. If it appears a bit too aggressive, I back it off to 211 or 210 and the controller/element adjusts appropriately. In manual mode on the heater, using the up/down arrows on the touch screen adjusts the power %, and performs the same effect as turning a dimmer knob up and down.
Click to expand...

So there is a manual mode?
 
Posted a video demoing the manual mode on the picoBrew eBIAB controller. This is my first attempt at a video and I have a cold, so please don't hate on me. :eek:

[ame]http://youtu.be/RtV2T5Xywq8[/ame]
 

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