Glycol chiller controller replacement

[Brooothru]

So, the controller to my SS Brewtech temperature (FTSs chilling and heating) shot craps for the second time in a little over a year. The controller itself appears to have failed "partially" only in the chilling mode. The unit boots up normally, responds to inputs, appears to turn-on/shut off at the proper hysteresis points, displays that the signal to operate is being sent to the pump, but the pump 'doesn't', as in pump. In addition to my Unitank I also have a Chronical that is an FTS model (chill only) that I'm using its controller in place of the failed FTSs controller to keep my current fermentation happy. Since the Chronicle's control unit is working with the Unitank and chiller, I know that the fault is not in the pump, the plumbing or the glycol chiller. The faulty controller is simply not sending DC power to the pump. This controller failed in exactly the same place and mode as the original one, so I suspect a faulty power plug output on the controller, with all other functions normal.

I'm more than a little miffed about the situation since I'm right in the middle of a large number of brews underway and/or planned. The replacement controller isn't cheap, but the proprietary design interface limits my options for replacement with something more robust like an Inkbird controller that has regular 120V power output rather than 28VDC pump power supply. The only replacement controller listed by SSBT is a Digital Touch screen system costing $261 with shipping. For that price I could replace all three of my glycol chiller controllers AND pumps with something more reliable. Right now I'm down to ONE controller (chill only) for three different fermenters that want to be kept cool in this record heat.

Anybody have suggestions or recommendations for replacing controllers? I'm more than happy with my present glycol tank, the pumps themselves, as well as the fermenters, but these failing controllers have got to go. I'm reluctant to go with 120VAC (not a fan of mixing 20A/120V with H2O+propylene glycol), but all the controllers I see are mostly that. Maybe a reliable aquarium pump/controller setup? I'd prefer a purpose built system for glycol chillers designed with small brewers in mind, that doesn't require a lot of MacGyvering.

 

[IslandLizard]

That sucks!
Have you contacted SS Brewtech about this?

Is there perhaps a (micro) relay failing?
Are those controllers serviceable?

 

[Brooothru]

That sucks!
Have you contacted SS Brewtech about this?

Is there perhaps a (micro) relay failing?
Are those controllers serviceable?

My suspicion is a relay failing. In both instances the failure was abrupt with no warning. One day the pump would work. The next, NADA, even though all the other modes on the controller did work, including the indicator that the pump was powered, though apparently not. Calling Customer Support (?) is not an option. No phone numbers listed, all correspondence is by email or "Zen Desk" correspondence, most of which is just a redirection to a list of FAQs that don't resolve the issue.

After the first controller failed, I eventually received a call from someone who analyzed this issue (after I steered him to the actual root problem) and ended up sending me a discounted replacement controller, which also worked flawlessly until it didn't. Customer Service is the one gripe I have with SSBT. For the most part I really like their gear, but trying to get a problem resolved is like a root canal that takes multiple weeks. I don't have time for that process.

 

[JAReeves]

I'm not an electrical engineer, but is there an adapter you can add to the pump to go from the DC to an Inkbird AC? Caveat: I only do basic electrical repair or modification, so this suggestion may be completely dumb.

 

[IslandLizard]

My suspicion is a relay failing. In both instances the failure was abrupt with no warning.

Can you test/run the pump by itself?
What voltage is the pump?

Is the "controller" that small, "ITC-1000" looking interface?
I've the feeling, in simple systems like that, the relay turns the pump on together with the chiller. The pump itself can be DC.

 

[SanPancho]

i am also hesitant to mix 120 and liquid. i'd still go with the inkbird, and i'd find a 12-40VA dc power pak to slap on the inkbird and run the wire to where its needed.

otherwise, order a johnson or remco controller with 24v output. its probably close enough that it should power the pump. you can always try it out first with a cheap 24v dc power supply to make sure the pump works.

 

[Brooothru]

Can you test/run the pump by itself?
What voltage is the pump?

Is the "controller" that small, "ITC-1000" looking interface?
I've the feeling, in simple systems like that, the relay turns the pump on together with the chiller. The pump itself can be DC.

I’ve been able to get the pump to operate normally. The power brick has always operated normally, as does the power to the heater pad. The plug-in for the DC output power to the pump (from the power brick) was not appearing to fully seat in the receptacle and wasn’t completing a connection to ground. There’s a tiny guide pin inside the receptacle that was slightly bent preventing the plug from being fully inserted. I was able to delicately realign the pin with a jeweler’s screw driver, but it’s a tenuous connection.

Need for a replacement part overcame my reluctance to spend $$$$ (again) to get an operable part, and it should be here by Monday. The new controller design looks to be much more robust, especially with regards to the power connections. It comes as a bundled kit with a new pump, tubing and other accessories that I don’t need but will be nice to have as spare parts.

It actually comes at a good time. I’ve got three active fermentations going on right now with a fourth planned for a brew day this weekend, so this will help me control the temperature on at least three of them, assuming that the faulty controller keeps operating. Fingers crossed.

 

[IslandLizard]

Glad you've been able to fix it.

I’ve got three active fermentations going on right now with a fourth planned for a brew day this weekend, so this will help me control the temperature on at least three of them, assuming that the faulty controller keeps operating.

If need be, you could combine 2 fermenters on one chilling channel. Just monitor the temp on the most important one. The other one just follows suit. For fermenters that are in the conditioning phase there's not much change anyway, or even much need for degree-accurate control.

Hope this fix holds up for you.

 

[Ballaratguy]

I'm not an electrical engineer, but is there an adapter you can add to the pump to go from the DC to an Inkbird AC? Caveat: I only do basic electrical repair or modification, so this suggestion may be completely dumb.

Why not have an AC to DC power supply connected to the inkbird to run your pump?

 

[Brooothru]

Glad you've been able to fix it.

If need be, you could combine 2 fermenters on one chilling channel. Just monitor the temp on the most important one. The other one just follows suit. For fermenters that are in the conditioning phase there's not much change anyway, or even much need for degree-accurate control.

Hope this fix holds up for you.

I’ve got three distinct channels from the chiller, so as long as the brew sessions are ales, and staggered by about a week, that’s actually more than enough without sharing a channel.

I started a soft cold crash on the first brew yesterday. It’s a British Golden Ale fermented with A09 “Pub” which flocs like granite. Even without Biofine it’ll be clear and ready to transfer to a keg for conditioning in the beer fridge by Sunday, so that will open up a free cooling channel for the Timbo Pils I’ll brew this weekend. That one will take more time and colder temperatures, so my small chiller (⅓ HP) will be straining to keep up with three or more cooling channels simultaneously.

As long as the new controller gets here by Monday (and the original one keeps functioning), I’ll be choppin’ tall cotton to have these beers ready for Fall competition.

 

[Brooothru]

Why not have an AC to DC power supply connected to the inkbird to run your pump?

That’s definitely the next step in finding a reliable and permanent solution, but mixing and matching different parts and sourcing them from different vendors takes more time than I have right now. Finding an out-of-the-box quick fix, despite the dollars, is what’s driving this train unfortunately.

That said, I’m hopeful that this “new and improved” Digital Touch Screen controller from SS Brewtech will be a worthy upgrade. In addition to the bling, it has a number of neat features and should hold up much better than the OEM parts. I’m really happy with all the SSBT gear I’ve accumulated, EXCEPT for these damned controllers. Definitely they are the weak link in an otherwise quality build.