Ok just got the ebay mesh screen that showed up in the mail today. Im impressed. Very fine holes and this sucker has some weight to it. Should remain functional for quite some time. Excited to give this a try next batch.
Stainless Steel 304 Mesh 20 .016 Wire Cloth Screen 12x12Do you have a link to the screen you bought?
I'm totally putting a mesh bottom on! But one question, the #20 Mesh (1mm gap for the metric folk) seems to be the default.
Is there any reason not to go down to the next size at #30 and get a gap size nearly half as large? I feel like the wort shouldn't be restricted any more, and you could reduce grains and grain bits to literally zero with that size. Thoughts?
Hi. In an earlier post, I said I used a splatter screen, which I think is a little smaller than the #20. I took a picture of mine, and compared it with the #30 on Ebay, and it looks like they're pretty similar. I can tell you mine works just fine, so I imagine the #30 would as well. I would caution, however, that if you grind your grain too fine, I think the finer screen would clog up on you pretty quickly. EdI'm totally putting a mesh bottom on! But one question, the #20 Mesh (1mm gap for the metric folk) seems to be the default.
Is there any reason not to go down to the next size at #30 and get a gap size nearly half as large? I feel like the wort shouldn't be restricted any more, and you could reduce grains and grain bits to literally zero with that size. Thoughts?
Thanks for doing this! Please keep us updated. The crappy filter has been the primary reason why I haven't been brewing.
Hi. I don't know about the consensus, but I've noticed the difference using the formula from manual compared to the online formula. I've tried both, and TBH, I prefer the manual's formula because it results in a slightly wetter mash, and I seem to get better conversion and less problems sparging. I've tweaked the sparge part of the formula to account for different boil times as I think the standard manual formula assumes a 60 minute boil and a little higher boil off rate. I don't worry if I get a little extra wort from it because I can either boil a little longer, or have a little extra in the fermenter. Since the beer is for my consumption (not competition,) a couple of gravity points either way won't matter. EdCurious as to what the consensus is regarding water calculations. Do you prefer the GF app,website or instruction sheet for determining the mash and sparge volumes.
Oh well, If it does have a little flavor from the scorch, I guess I just created a Smoked Hoppy Belgian Triple!
Perfect.....All temperature probes match!
Testing is being done in centre of mash tun
Nice - that settles a long standing argument/question about the Grainfather.
What was your re-circulation flow rate? Do you run it full on, not caring what goes down the overflow? Or are you holding back the flow rate so no, to little, wort goes down the overflow pipe?
Nice - that settles a long standing argument/question about the Grainfather.
What was your re-circulation flow rate? Do you run it full on, not caring what goes down the overflow? Or are you holding back the flow rate so no, to little, wort goes down the overflow pipe?
Thinking about doing this to the main unit, got it real pretty on the HLT.
I have been planning on doing this for a while, except with a needle valve, but have been waiting for my warranty to expire first, which should be soon. what size is you valve there?
I have been planning on doing this for a while, except with a needle valve, but have been waiting for my warranty to expire first, which should be soon. what size is you valve there?
Food for thought: I use a piece of 1/2" silicone tubing and a butterfly clamp to hold tubing on to the GF sparge tank spigot. The 1/2" valve is on the end of the hose...haven't used it yet and if it doesn't work efficiently, I can try the valve on the tank and reverse it. I'll post a pic later when I can dig out my stuff.
I have tried that the past few times brewing. No matter how tight you put the clamp, because of the conical shape of the grainfather spigot, it slips off all the time. I'm just going to do what the others have done and throw a 1/2 valve onto the body of the GF Sparge body and call it a day.
I have tried that the past few times brewing. No matter how tight you put the clamp, because of the conical shape of the grainfather spigot, it slips off all the time. I'm just going to do what the others have done and throw a 1/2 valve onto the body of the GF Sparge body and call it a day.
I'm totally putting a mesh bottom on! But one question, the #20 Mesh (1mm gap for the metric folk) seems to be the default.
Is there any reason not to go down to the next size at #30 and get a gap size nearly half as large? I feel like the wort shouldn't be restricted any more, and you could reduce grains and grain bits to literally zero with that size. Thoughts?
Ok just got the ebay mesh screen that showed up in the mail today. Im impressed. Very fine holes and this sucker has some weight to it. Should remain functional for quite some time. Excited to give this a try next batch.
Hi. I used the tips of my kitchen shears and it worked fine. Just go slow and take a little at a time. Edif you dont mind my asking, what did you use to cut the inner circle out? I was thinking a jewelry cutter, but dont know if the mesh is too hard.
if you dont mind my asking, what did you use to cut the inner circle out? I was thinking a jewelry cutter, but dont know if the mesh is too hard.
What kind of gap do you guys use on your 3-roller mills? I have a monster mill mm3 and a gap of 0.055" and get insanely slow sparge time(2 hours +). I have read about crush grades to 0.9mm, but that is a rater fine crush?
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