Danby 10.2 (DCFM289WDD) Keezer Build Thread

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Yep - I think so. I can't remember how many screws are there but I think 4. We just used what was on hand :)
 
I wouldn't call it a ***** - but it definitely takes a little thought. You may have to pull a keg out to get to another one and so forth. If you're thinking 6 shanks then I think that may cause a problem. If you want to run 6 out the front then I'd be running dual faucet shanks. Otherwise, I'd consider going through the top instead. Like I mentioned in a previous post, in hindsight that is probably the only thing I'd re-evaluate about the build. One thing you don't see in the pictures is I have 4 flare bulkhead now that I bring 4 different secondary regulator into so I can run different pressure inside. That was worth the effort. I keep the regulator external to keep the clutter out.

HTH.

Great Build! I am about to begin my conversion. Would this issue be solved if you'd have hinged the the collar and connected the lid permanently to the top of the collar (so the taps and hoses/regulators lift with the collar for accessing the keg space)? Is that what folks refer to as a "coffin build"?
 
I've heard that can cause too much strain on the hinge (which are probably only built for so much weight) and could compromise the longevity of the function.


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Great Build! I am about to begin my conversion. Would this issue be solved if you'd have hinged the the collar and connected the lid permanently to the top of the collar (so the taps and hoses/regulators lift with the collar for accessing the keg space)? Is that what folks refer to as a "coffin build"?

No generally speaking, coffin builds completely encapsulate the freezer with a finished exterior of some kind - usually wood. Almost like turning the keezer into a bar.

I think you'd be ok in this case but as previously mentioned, I would question the ability of the stock hinges to hold that kind of weight.A 2x6 collar will have some heft to it. You'd almost need something to support it when the lid was up - like the hood on a car.
 
Definitely subscribed!

I have been looking at the Danby 8.7 and love the way your Danby build turned out. Maybe the wife won't mind looking at it if it turns out like this one. I have a few questions if you don't mind.

I was thinking of doing 5 taps. Do you think mounting them offset in the collar so they are over the hump area would help with the internal organization?

How often do you need to recharge the eva dry?

Where did you get that awesome name plate that covers the old handle holes?

Thanks again for the awesome inspiration!
 
Definitely subscribed!

I have been looking at the Danby 8.7 and love the way your Danby build turned out. Maybe the wife won't mind looking at it if it turns out like this one. I have a few questions if you don't mind.

I was thinking of doing 5 taps. Do you think mounting them offset in the collar so they are over the hump area would help with the internal organization?

How often do you need to recharge the eva dry?

Where did you get that awesome name plate that covers the old handle holes?

Thanks again for the awesome inspiration!

Hi and thanks! I wanted to stay pretty simple and give it that kind of retro cooler feel. I am pretty happy with how it came out!

I am not sure what you mean by mounting them offset over the hump area. Can you please explain that and I'll do my best to help?

So the way I do it is I have two eva dry's. I just keep them rotating and probably swap them once a week. You say recharge so just to be clear - I have the ones you plug-in and dry.

The nameplate I actually designed in Front Panel Express! I am happy to send you my file if you'd like. This way you have the basic template and can change the text to whatever you'd like.

Let me know if you have anymore questions and thanks again!
 
I was thinking of mounting the taps justified to one side in the face of the collar as opposed to centered like yours.

Good idea to have two Eva dry for swapping out.

Never used that program before. Is it a freebie online? Sure, send the file along anyways, I always love a head start.
 
I was thinking of mounting the taps justified to one side in the face of the collar as opposed to centered like yours.

Good idea to have two Eva dry for swapping out.

Never used that program before. Is it a freebie online? Sure, send the file along anyways, I always love a head start.

Gotcha! I see no reason that wouldn't work.

Front Panel Express is free, you have to ultimately order the part you design from them. I want to say that cover was about 50 bucks but it just depends on what material and thickness and such.

You can download the software here: http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ and if you send me a PM with your e-mail address I'll shoot over the file. Thanks!
 
Great Thanks. I will PM in a second.

Another question is what would you guess at the radius of the corners being. I work at a millwork shop and I am playing around in CAD with some detail of making a concealed insulation collar. The radius would help me at guessing how things will come togeter.

Danby 8.7 is on order and probably about a week or so out. $329 from WalMart with free ship to store. Psyched.
 
Thanks for the great post. I built mine after your design.
Danby 14.5 cf
I used an aluminum strip from the hardware store ($10) for the collar. Cut the 2x6 to 2x5 approx for a perfect fit.

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