Danby 10.2 (DCFM289WDD) Keezer Build Thread

CornyKegs 728
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Very nice write up. I just ordered the Danby 10.2 based largely on your input. I already have a 6 faucet t-tower that I will be using, so I really don't need a collar. I measured my ball lock + qd and the highest point of the beer line is at 26 1/8." From your photos it appears that the lid insulation protrudes in to the base a bit.

Would it be possible to not use a collar if I stripped the lid insulation?

Thanks for any insight.
 
justinsbrew said:
Very nice write up. I just ordered the Danby 10.2 based largely on your input. I already have a 6 faucet t-tower that I will be using, so I really don't need a collar. I measured my ball lock + qd and the highest point of the beer line is at 26 1/8." From your photos it appears that the lid insulation protrudes in to the base a bit.

Would it be possible to not use a collar if I stripped the lid insulation?

Thanks for any insight.
Click to expand...

I'm going to give it a *maybe*. To the top without the collar is 25" almost exactly so you're talking another 1 1/8". You may get that if you remove the insulation - but I can't be sure without actually doing it. You should give it a shot and post back up the results for sure!

I am very happy with the freezer otherwise. It has been beautiful and now that I don't need to occupy it with a water bath for chilling I will have 4 taps and 8 kegs!
 
Subscribed!

I've outgrown my 3 tap mini-frigerator.

People mostly want $150-250 for used freezers on Kijiji, so I've been scouting out new freezers. My local Costco (Canada) has Danby 10.2cu ft freezers for $290.

I was wondering how many kegs it would hold. I lucked-out by finding this thread when I googled "Danby 10.2cu. ft. freezer".

That question (and many more) is addressed in this excellent thread. Thanks everyone.

Time to start spending.;)
 
Question for the OP on the plywood platform:

How well has that worked for you? I'm going to be getting a somewhat larger freezer (not hugely so, 15 CF), and want to put it on wheels. Is the 3/4 inch plywood clearly sturdy enough? Or are you wishing you had built a frame? Just want to make sure I don't get myself into trouble! Thanks
 
I have absolutely no regrets going with the plywood base. It has worked perfectly fine. Really the most important part is to get some quality casters if you plan to move it much. It's only about 400 pounds loaded anyway - that isn't that much for plywood nor most light duty casters.

HTH!
 
Just picked up this unit from Walmart for $329.

Looking at some of the first photos it looks like you added weather stripping to the collar side of your build. Is that just an illusion/dilution?

My plan is to go with the 2x6 with a rounded corner. Mine lives in the garage so if it isn't the prettiest; that okay with me.

Any redos for the tap placement and co2 lines? Seems like that will be important for loading and unloading.

Thanks and great work!

BW
 
I did indeed add stripping to the top of the collar. The main reason I did this is because the lid tends to not sit completely flat on the collar - it is a little higher on the back than then front due to the design of the hinges. So I added the stripping to make sure I got a good seal all the way around and would definitely recommend it.

I have changed the CO2 plumbing pretty significantly - I have 4 shanks now that are in the collar so I can run 4 different pressures. Once inside I split each of the 4 so I have 8 total gas connectors. This I definitely do not regret. I also used Colder disconnects on these so it's easy to break down if need be, and they can swivel when necessary.

What I'm on the fence about is if I did it again if I would do a tower instead of a side mount. There are pros and cons to each. When side mounted, the shanks do make it a little difficult to get kegs in and out. But I don't do this often enough where it is a huge burden.

I think you will enjoy it - I know I have! Definitely be prepared for a lot of water build up in the pan. You'll need to use Damp Rid or a dehumidifier to aid this.
 
Definitely be prepared for a lot of water build up in the pan. You'll need to use Damp Rid or a dehumidifier to aid this.
Click to expand...

How much water are you talking about? Is it something that you can use the drain plug for? Mop out with a towel once a week? I am kind of a lazy brewer in the fact that I like to have certain things set up and forget about them. This would be one of those things.

Thanks again.

BW
 
No it's not enough that you're going to be able to drain it. It'll likely pool on one side of the freezer - probably towards the compressor. Wiping it out is possible but remember you will have kegs directly over it. I have used a wet vac before to pull the water out though.
 
Last question, I swear! What adhesive do you use? Looks like liquid nails might be a good choice.

Thanks again!

BW
 
You should get this to prevent moisture build-up. My keezer is in progress now so I can't personally testify to its usefulness, but many people have reported it works awesome.
 
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Yes the EVA-Dry will work - you just need to check it often.

As for the bonding - use 100% silicone for attaching the collar to the keezer and for sealing all joints. When you attach the foam to the collar, or anything to the foam (if you do like I did and use Reflectix) - use foam sealant. If you use anything other than that it'll burn through the foam.

Glad to help - don't hesitate to ask.
 
ResumeMan said:
You should get this to prevent moisture build-up. My keezer is in progress now so I can't personally testify to its usefulness, but many people have reported it works awesome.
Click to expand...

I have one of these but it seems you need airflow for the best effect. Putting a pc fan in the keezer is supposed to be the way to go. I haven't done it yet but plan to.
 
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I would definitely recommend having the fan either way. You need to keep air moving for even cold distribution.
 
I'm thinking about getting this same model either tonight or tomorrow at Costco. I have 6 perlicks to go in. Is it a ***** to get kegs in and out with shanks in the way?

Thanks! Sweet build too! :mug:
 
rshortt said:
I'm thinking about getting this same model either tonight or tomorrow at Costco. I have 6 perlicks to go in. Is it a ***** to get kegs in and out with shanks in the way?

Thanks! Sweet build too! :mug:
Click to expand...

I wouldn't call it a ***** - but it definitely takes a little thought. You may have to pull a keg out to get to another one and so forth. If you're thinking 6 shanks then I think that may cause a problem. If you want to run 6 out the front then I'd be running dual faucet shanks. Otherwise, I'd consider going through the top instead. Like I mentioned in a previous post, in hindsight that is probably the only thing I'd re-evaluate about the build. One thing you don't see in the pictures is I have 4 flare bulkhead now that I bring 4 different secondary regulator into so I can run different pressure inside. That was worth the effort. I keep the regulator external to keep the clutter out.

HTH.
 
Yeah, 6 out the front. If I do that it might be worth getting right angle tail pieces. Thanks for the reply, I now have something to think about.
 
That works too - and that may solve most of the problem. To be honest, that thought never crossed my mind :)
 
jcaudill,

Nice build! I'm in the process of planning for my keezer build and really like the size of the danby 10.2. I know you run your co2 from outside but do you think a 10# bottle would fit on the hump with a 6" collar like you used (which I guess is actually 5.5" if you used a 2x6)?


Thanks for the build thread!
 
Ya I'm pretty sure a ten pounder will fit fine. You may find it gets a little cramped inside though if you plan to run any secondary regulators for maintaining different pressures. It gets pretty cramped in there when loaded with 8 kegs and all the tubing and such.
 
allanyork said:
How do you regulate the temp so it doesn't freeze?
Click to expand...

Externally mounted temperature controller with a probe inside the freezer - mine is set at 37. And I have one of those Evadry humidifiers inside to capture moisture and it works BRILLIANTLY.
 
One quick little update. The drain tray has always been an issue - even 10 earth magnets would not hold it! So I decided to build an external cabinet with a drain tray that actually drains. You can't really see it but the doors open to a container inside I can just empty out!

 
I am starting my keezer build on this same model today. Can you show a picture of your hinges on the back of your unit? I would like a frame a reference one the issue you mentioned about the lid not sitting flush without adjusting with spacers. Thanks and I really enjoyed all these posts.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
TenaciousDustin said:
I am starting my keezer build on this same model today. Can you show a picture of your hinges on the back of your unit? I would like a frame a reference one the issue you mentioned about the lid not sitting flush without adjusting with spacers. Thanks and I really enjoyed all these posts.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

Sure thing give me a bit!
 
Ok here are some close up pics:





What you'll notice is I used two thin sheets of plexiglass with holes drilled as spacers. The deal is they designed the hinge around the moulding that goes around the top-side of the bottom part of the freezer. In doing so you have an offset you have to account for. I think you'll see what I mean if you take the hinge off and try to set it against a flush surface.
 
Gotcha, thanks! I imagine washers could do the same as long as they are the right size and depth.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 

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