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Yikes. Didn't know it'd be over that quick!
16 cuft trunk (Its freaking huge... could easily put about 5 full size golf bags in there.)
When is the deal over? is it a timed event or until X amount of money is used...?
???????
What does that equal in dead hookers?
November 1st but there is only $1b of provided gov assistance for this program... So it might run out before then...
Well hell.
Neither of my vehicles qualify, the mpg on both is too high. Plus, I've only had the clunker (it really does clunk) since November last. Seems I never qualify for these deals.
Still wondering what kind of tricks the dealers are using. Select models? MSRP pricing only? Sorry that model not available?
I know they are not giving cars away and would only be motivated by what they are going to be putting in their pockets.
IMHO car dealers are the most devious legal thiefs in the world.
AP
I looked into this idea, but this pretty much kills it:
What to bring to the Dealer to qualify:
* 1 Year Proof of Insurance. If your insurance card does not cover the entire year preceding the trade in, you will need other proof of insurance. Contact your insurance company to get evidence of 1 year worth of insurance. The form must include, at a minimum, the insurance company, policy number, VIN, start and end date of insurance (showing at least 1 year).
* Proof of Registration going back at least 1 year.
* Clear title. This means the title must be free of any liens or other encumbrances. If you have liens, you need to get these cleared before going to the dealer. This may include evidence on the face of the title showing no lien; that the title has been cleared (signed and stamped accordingly), or with an attached lien release from the lien holder.
* The vehicle manufacturer date found on the drivers door or door jamb is less than 25 years old when you trade it in.
If you do not have any of the above items in your possession, you may do the following:
* Call your insurance company and have them provide evidence of 1 years worth of insurance on the trade-in vehicle. Make sure it includes the minimum requirements noted above.
* Contact your DMV for copies of prior registration certificates to show proof of ownership of the trade-in vehicle for at least the past year. The name on the registration must be the same as the name on the title and the same as the purchaser of the new vehicle.
* Clear your title by paying-off any loans outstanding and receive either a newly issued title from the DMV that is free of all liens and other encumbrances, or have the lien release document from the lien holder (signed and stamped accordingly), or your title signed and stamped accordingly (showing it is clear)
Once you are at the dealer you will be asked to certify to the following under penalty of law. The above documents will provide proof to the dealer to assist in this certification process.
* The trade-in is in drivable condition.
* You are the registered owner, and have been for the least the last year.
* The trade-in has been continuously insured for the last year.
* The trade-in is titled in your name and has been for the last year.
* You have not previously participated in the CARS program.
I still have a lien on the POS, and it's not like I can just whip $2500 out of my ass to pay it off. Some 'deal'. hmph.
If they goal is to get "clunkers" off the road then why must it be running? If your vehicle is broken and your plan was to get it fixed then you actually do have to get it fixed BEFORE retiring it if you decide to go with this deal? More waste of time and money. I guess their way of proving you actually use the vehicle. What is the plan for all these clunkers, scrap or cars for the homeless?
Those points are covered on the website. The original point of C4C was to help reduce emissions. The economic benefit (if any) is a secondary issue. A clunker that isn't running produces zero emissions. Per the program rules, all clunkers turned in must be scrapped. That's why you can't get trade-in money on a C4C car.
Saw an article in this mornings paper that said the recyclers were unsure if they were going to accept the cars. They claimed that up to 60% of the profit they make off of scrap cars comes from the resale of the drivetrain.
I'd probably do it if I didn't need a damn bus to haul my kids around in. Plus I put new tires and brakes on the Excursion within the last 12 months, so there's always that too.
The problem with that is by the time the recycler has paid for, transported and salvaged the clunker car he claims he has 4-6 hundred dollars into it. Most of his return was from the power train, which is now junk, scrap steel at about a penny a pound, along with the rest of about 75% of the car. The plastic, aluminum and other assorted metals are a few more dollars. You don't make a living by paying 4-6 hundred dollars for something, then selling it for 250-3 hundred.If those recyclers don't want the scrap, others will.
You don't make a living by paying 4-6 hundred dollars for something, then selling it for 250-3 hundred.
If I ever do decide to buy a brand new one off the lot I want to hand them a sheet of paper with my vehicle defined to the smallest detail, and say find that vehicle.
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