Brutus Ten ????

[Desert_Sky]

I would like to go ahead and thank everyone who gave me advice and guided me through this kick ass project. Im finally finished! Just finished firing it back up and my burners work like champs now. Those flow controls after the ASCOs made all the difference. I brewed an ok beer last weekend. Had some changes to make, but now Im ready. So Saturday Im going to make a Belgian Wit for the wife. Without her being as patient as she was, this would have never come together as it did. This beer is going to be really good, I can just tell.

Over all Im very pleased with the build. Quite a few frustrations, but the satisfaction more than makes up for it. I like most of all how we all took an idea and ran with it in our own way. Once again, thanks again everyone

*lots more pics in my gallery

 

[korndog]

I would like to go ahead and thank everyone who gave me advice and guided me through this kick ass project. Im finally finished! Just finished firing it back up and my burners work like champs now. Those flow controls after the ASCOs made all the difference. I brewed an ok beer last weekend. Had some changes to make, but now Im ready. So Saturday Im going to make a Belgian Wit for the wife. Without her being as patient as she was, this would have never come together as it did. This beer is going to be really good, I can just tell.

Over all Im very pleased with the build. Quite a few frustrations, but the satisfaction more than makes up for it. I like most of all how we all took an idea and ran with it in our own way. Once again, thanks again everyone

*lots more pics in my gallery

Great job man. I enjoyed my first session today and I must say; it was very civilized. Cheers!

 

[kladue]

Congratulations on a job well done, has been an informative and educational process during the construction and testing of your new systems. I am still writing C++ code for the phase 2 system and have a working console application built, but need to do the gui portion and am having a challenging time learning and trying to write code at same time.

 

[korndog]

Congratulations on a job well done, has been an informative and educational process during the construction and testing of your new systems. I am still writing C++ code for the phase 2 system and have a working console application built, but need to do the gui portion and am having a challenging time learning and trying to write code at same time.

Sounds interesting Kladue. Looking forward to seeing it.

 

[Gordie]

I would like to go ahead and thank everyone who gave me advice and guided me through this kick ass project. Im finally finished! Just finished firing it back up and my burners work like champs now. Those flow controls after the ASCOs made all the difference. I brewed an ok beer last weekend. Had some changes to make, but now Im ready. So Saturday Im going to make a Belgian Wit for the wife. Without her being as patient as she was, this would have never come together as it did. This beer is going to be really good, I can just tell.

Over all Im very pleased with the build. Quite a few frustrations, but the satisfaction more than makes up for it. I like most of all how we all took an idea and ran with it in our own way. Once again, thanks again everyone

*lots more pics in my gallery

Dude - congrats and also a hearty thank you. I've been learning a ton from your build and the pics and dialog has prevented me from walking into more than one bear trap. Cheers!

Gordie

 

[korndog]

After my first brew day, I decided I would rather have all of the connections at the front of the stand. I had some stainless waterflex and routed them to the front. You could easily use copper flex available at hardware stores. You need 3/4x1/2 bushing for your QD's.

 

[Desert_Sky]

ahhh good idea.
I was considering getting one of those therminators but I cant whirlpool in my Sanke with my current setup (bazooka tube).

 

[Desert_Sky]

If anyone is interested.. I'm going to be producing brutus 10 stands...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=67460

MIke.

If you live in the southwest and want one, I have jigs made already and can have one to you by this weekend.

Im not shipping though

 

[korndog]

ahhh good idea.
I was considering getting one of those therminators but I cant whirlpool in my Sanke with my current setup (bazooka tube).

After a bad experience with a Blichmann boil screen, I now use hop bags. I pump boiling wort through the Therminator to sanitize, and whirlpool at knock out at full flow. Hooked up cold waterline, and recirculated until pitch temp (really fast!). I can't say enough about this process. It was awesome.

 

[Desert_Sky]

no I was saying if anyone around here needed one I can get one to them really quick like

 

[korndog]

I sealed the jets on all my burners and am getting much better flame. I lowered the kettle burner to 4" from jet to kettle and am getting sootless flame now. I am going to lower the other two burners by elbowing down and forward from the top of the riser. This gets me about 2" lower than existing config.

 

[The Pol]

I need a stand for the Brutus 10...

 

[Mirilis]

Just finished firing it back up and my burners work like champs now. Those flow controls after the ASCOs made all the difference. I brewed an ok beer last weekend. Had some changes to make, but now Im ready.

Can you show some detail on how you got your burners working.. If you figured them out I may buy the topfoodservice ones too.

 

[Desert_Sky]

Can you show some detail on how you got your burners working.. If you figured them out I may buy the topfoodservice ones too.

this seemed to work really well last weekend. I put a gas ball valve after the solenoid and it fixed the problem I was having with a big rush of gas coming through once the solenoid opened.

Im still changing up the jet configs on the burner. I dont like two flames hitting each other so Im trying to change it up a bit

 

[The Pol]

what solenoids did you use? How does the ball valve help with the rush of gas??

 

[Desert_Sky]

what solenoids did you use? How does the ball valve help with the rush of gas??

ASCO red hats #8210G094 for 35 each off ebay. And the ball valve acts as a flow restrictor to keep the LP from flying into the burner all at once

you still interested in a Brutus frame? PM me if so. If you are, well the price of steel just keeps going up so I wouldnt wait much longer

 

[Damonic]

New to the forum so be kind, but I can't seem to find actual plans for a Brewtus 10. I have my kegs and planned on 'keggle-izing' them but would like specs on the piping, controllers, stand, etc. Are they available somewhere or should I just purchase a back issue of BYO?

 

[Desert_Sky]

Well now that I have everything the way I want it, I can get a Brutus frame welded up with keg retaining rings and folding control box arm like mine for 550 if anyone is interested.

 

[pieper]

Howdy -

So last night I basically finished up my brutus ten (it was a long project) and I noticed that my plastic quick disconnects are straight through (no internal valve that prohibits fluids to pass once disconnected). This seems like it would cause a very messy brew day.

Does anyone have experience with the plastic disconnects without an internal valve? Do they make it a pain in the ass with excess spilling every time you disconnect your valves? I foresee wort getting all over my stand, pumps, and floor when using these.

I am thinking of returning them and getting the disconnects with the valves but want a second opinion before I do.

Thanks in advance,

cmp

 

[korndog]

Here is a short video of my burners firing off the spark ignition system. I posted this in another thread too.

 

[korndog]

I have a pre-cut stainless panel for the Brutus as specified by Lonnie Mac. PM if interested.

 

[Mirilis]

Im excited, Ive had my steel cut for about a month now but SWMBO gives me 0 Time to work on it, opting for me to work on wedding stuff... until this weekend.

She is going to have one of her friends who is a welder by trade weld my stand for me. I work as a designer and Ive made stand modifications (using smaller steel 1.5in, etc) so the demensions have changed slightly so Ill give him that drawing.

Ill take pics as soon as it gets done (hopefully Sunday)

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Hey I need a little help with valve selection. I came across 2 asco 8211A but I'm not sure of the specs on them. Google hasn't helped a bit and I cant find any info on the asco site. Any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks

 

[Desert_Sky]

ok just finished brewing again.....

So I mash out on my MT and bring it up to 168 using the burner and recircing. I then start the fly sparge with the HLT reading 182. I still loose temp on the runnings coming from the MT, they average about 164. What temp do you guys fly sparge at? I don't want to hit it with 190 for fear of tannins. I think Im loosing more heat than Im retaining, so Im going to have to insulate it I think

And Im hating on my MT burner. I have more flames coming out at the base of the the jets than I have coming out the jets themselves. Putting a 10 jet burner on for next time and hopefully it will be better.

But I hit my target temps exactly so Im happy. Expecting airlock activity in 3 hours, so I need to go to ACE for a blowoff tube.

/rambling

 

[Mirilis]

Hey I need a little help with valve selection. I came across 2 asco 8211A but I'm not sure of the specs on them. Google hasn't helped a bit and I cant find any info on the asco site. Any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks

search for the asco valve thread, theres a link somewhere int here for STC valves.. they are essentially the same thing, but a lot cheaper.. like 37 new.

Ill post the model number when i get back .. ill have to dig for it.

 

[jdoiv]

ok just finished brewing again.....

So I mash out on my MT and bring it up to 168 using the burner and recircing. I then start the fly sparge with the HLT reading 182. I still loose temp on the runnings coming from the MT, they average about 164. What temp do you guys fly sparge at? I don't want to hit it with 190 for fear of tannins. I think Im loosing more heat than Im retaining, so Im going to have to insulate it I think

And Im hating on my MT burner. I have more flames coming out at the base of the the jets than I have coming out the jets themselves. Putting a 10 jet burner on for next time and hopefully it will be better.

But I hit my target temps exactly so Im happy. Expecting airlock activity in 3 hours, so I need to go to ACE for a blowoff tube.

/rambling

I don't worry too much about the temp dropping in the MLT during the sparge. Just try to keep the sparge water temp up if you can. Though I don't really worry about this much either.

Once you've done the mash out and started the sparge, I think a lot of the sugars are loosend up and run off in the first 20-30 minutes. After that, most everything is still in suspension and the temp doesn't matter as much. My temp will drop into the 140's and I still get 85-90% efficiency.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

search for the asco valve thread, theres a link somewhere int here for STC valves.. they are essentially the same thing, but a lot cheaper.. like 37 new.

Ill post the model number when i get back .. ill have to dig for it.

I just ask because I picked up 2 8211's off ebay for 30 bucks total. From the info I could find they are esentially the same as the 8210 series but used for explosive proof applications. I emailed asco for info and they said that they were discontinued and to contact their service reps, but they havent gotten back to me yet.

 

[SuperiorBrew]

Finally got the stand done, I think I now have everything I need except for one more Asco 8210G075 to match the one I already have.
I am going with a Honeywell electronic spark ignition system only because of Kladue holding my hand and helping me out with choosing the right parts and Lonnie and everyone else on this thread for the rest of the ideas and help.

 

[korndog]

Finally got the stand done, I think I now have everything I need except for one more Asco 8210G075 to match the one I already have.
I am going with a Honeywell electronic spark ignition system only because of Kladue holding my hand and helping me out with choosing the right parts and Lonnie and everyone else on this thread for the rest of the ideas and help.

Wow, looks great. congratulations. I think you will really like the spark ignition system. I'm a little confused as to what the Asco's are for. Aren't you using Honeywell combination valves?

 

[Desert_Sky]

Finally got the stand done, I think I now have everything I need except for one more Asco 8210G075 to match the one I already have.
I am going with a Honeywell electronic spark ignition system only because of Kladue holding my hand and helping me out with choosing the right parts and Lonnie and everyone else on this thread for the rest of the ideas and help.

wow very nice!! You have a fun road ahead of you. I actually had a good time piecing mine together, Im almost sorry it's done. Which is probably why I keep trying to come with things that I can tweak

Your looks great so far, keep us updated

 

[korndog]

Finally got the stand done, I think I now have everything I need except for one more Asco 8210G075 to match the one I already have.
I am going with a Honeywell electronic spark ignition system only because of Kladue holding my hand and helping me out with choosing the right parts and Lonnie and everyone else on this thread for the rest of the ideas and help.

One thing to watch out for; mine has tipped over a couple of times with very little prompting. I am planning some anchors at my brewing location.

 

[SuperiorBrew]

Wow, looks great. congratulations. I think you will really like the spark ignition system. I'm a little confused as to what the Asco's are for. Aren't you using Honeywell combination valves?

I am using:
Asco 8210g075 valves with 24VAC coils http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210_NC.pdf

Honeywell S87B1008 ignition modules DIRECT SPARK IGNITION SINGLE ROD, ANY VALVE WITH ALARM TERMINAL. 6 SEC. LOCKOUT

Honeywell Q345A1321 pilot assemblys INTERMITTENT PILOT BURNER WITH K TIP. NTERMITTENT PILOT BURNER, SEC. AERATED. TRADELINE, B BRACKET, .018 ORIFICE, 1/4 IN. FITTING, K TIP REPLACES- GEMLINE: 1D284

Lp Orifices for pilot Honeywell 390686-25 .012 ORIFICE

Honeywell AT140A1000 Transformers 24 Vac at 40 VA

 

[korndog]

I am using:
Asco 8210g075 valves with 24VAC coils http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210_NC.pdf

Honeywell S87B1008 ignition modules DIRECT SPARK IGNITION SINGLE ROD, ANY VALVE WITH ALARM TERMINAL. 6 SEC. LOCKOUT

Honeywell Q345A1321 pilot assemblys INTERMITTENT PILOT BURNER WITH K TIP. NTERMITTENT PILOT BURNER, SEC. AERATED. TRADELINE, B BRACKET, .018 ORIFICE, 1/4 IN. FITTING, K TIP REPLACES- GEMLINE: 1D284

Lp Orifices for pilot Honeywell 390686-25 .012 ORIFICE

Honeywell AT140A1000 Transformers 24 Vac at 40 VA

So I assume this setup direct-fires the burner. Does that mean that when the controller calls for heat, the Asco opens and spark module fires the burner and the valve stays open until controller is is satisfied? If you get a flame out, the gas keeps flowing while the spark re-ignites? Sorry, I am just trying to understand your setup and its benefits compared to mine. As you may know, I used combination valves that open a pilot valve before opening the main valve. Kladue is certainly the man when it comes to this stuff, so I am sure it's well thought out.

 

[Gordie]

FYI - for those looking for solinoids I just saw ASCO 8210G094 valves in eBay - Item number 110260173198. 8 left at a buy it now price of $40. (Not mine, by the way.)

8210g094 specs:

Pipe Size: 1/2" NPT, 5/8" Orifice, Cv 4.0
Construction: Brass Body, NBR (buna-n) seals, other materials include PA (nylon), stainless steel 305, 430F, 302, and a copper shading coil
Pressure (Min-Max): 0-150 PSI (air), 0-150 PSI (water)
Flow Rate (Min-Max): 0-49 GPM (water), 0-394 SCFM (air)
Coil Type: General purpose/watertight, dusttight, corrosion resistant
Enclosure Rating: Type 1, 2, 3, 3S, 4 & 4X
Coil Rating: 120/60 VAC, 10.1 watts, class F continuous duty service
Coil Termination: 1/2" Conduit Hub with 18" lead wires

 

[Billhev]

For the guys using a pilot valve system, can I use 1/4" copper tubing or is there a reason that the tubing made for pilots are aluminum.

 

[korndog]

For the guys using a pilot valve system, can I use 1/4" copper tubing or is there a reason that the tubing made for pilots are aluminum.

My friend who works on furnaces told me it was fine to use copper.

 

[HarvInSTL]

My friend who works on furnaces told me it was fine to use copper.

My only concern with hard plumbing copper for the pilots is breakage.

I know that when I transported my Brutus 10 clone a few weeks ago the burners were heavy enough to make the 1/2" black steel piping to flex a little anytime I hit a pot hole.

Ironically enough I had a small leak in one of welded tees. So it went back to the welder and now we are working on small u-bolt welded to the frame and bolted to the burner so that it will be stable at two points.

I am using the 23tip burners.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Just got my two asco valves in today, I have a question for everyone that uses these though. When the valve is energized is it supposed to make a humming noise? It's not that loud, but im not sure if it's supposed to be doing that.

 

[Desert_Sky]

yep. i get an initial kind of pop then a low frequency hum the whole time it's energized

 

[korndog]

My only concern with hard plumbing copper for the pilots is breakage.

I know that when I transported my Brutus 10 clone a few weeks ago the burners were heavy enough to make the 1/2" black steel piping to flex a little anytime I hit a pot hole.

Ironically enough I had a small leak in one of welded tees. So it went back to the welder and now we are working on small u-bolt welded to the frame and bolted to the burner so that it will be stable at two points.

I am using the 23tip burners.

I assume he is talking about 1/4" o.d. refer tubing which is hand bendable.

Good idea on the extra stability. I haven't had an issue yet, but then mine hasn't been transported to an event yet either. I had a leak in on of my welded joints too. JB Weld fixed the pinhole with no issue.