Best Guess at a Bud Select 55 clone

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Hang Glider

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this is as close as I could get....
alcohol is a bit low, but the calories are right on!

2 1/2 lbs of grain in a 5G batch...


55-caloriebeer-1.gif


:D
 
That is calories per pint, Bud55 is per 12 ounces, you have a little room to go up there.
 
Yeah you can go all the way up to dilute piss water instead of super diluted piss water. I tried MGD 64 on draft a while back head-to-head vs. a SA Boston Lager and the MGD smelled and tasted exactly like water. I can't imagine shaving another 9 calories off the bottle!
 
Here's an easier recipe budweiser select + water. Might as well cut out the middleman and pour it into the toilet.

These low cal beers annoy me because all they are doing is making beer with next to no alcohol in it. Your recipe has 1.17% ABV. With that ratio my recipe would be about 1/3 of a 3.2 beer and 2/3 water.

Sorry to be rude.
 
Is it just me? Or does it seem silly to even to think about a recipe like this!

Why don't you brew a Real Pilsner with 7 lbs of malt, then when your done add 10 gallons of water to it, That's what AB/bud does to make select 55. That way you can save all that time and energy having to brew this 3 times. That way you can have 15 gallons of worthless beer it 1/3 the time. Sounds like a real time and energy saver to me.
 
Is it just me? Or does it seem silly to even to think about a recipe like this!

Why don't you brew a Real Pilsner with 7 lbs of malt, then when your done add 10 gallons of water to it, That's what AB/bud does to make select 55. That way you can save all that time and energy having to brew this 3 times. That way you can have 15 gallons of worthless beer it 1/3 the time. Sounds like a real time and energy saver to me.

PPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTTT.........

I think it's a joke..........:D
 
Tell you what, I'll drink one of my House Pales, let it marinate for an hour or so, then relieve myself in to the empty bottle. Chill & Serve! :mug:
 
It's an interesting challenge getting so few calories out of a drink comprised almost entirely of alcohol and carbohydrates. Does anyone know the ABV of Select 55?
 
I do know that I loves me some Fidyfive!:ban: It's easily the best bier in all zee world, yea!!! I also love their awesome ads I just feel free, as if riding nude on a clydesdale through Central Park when guzzling my Fidyfive, dats wat I'm talkn bout!:rockin:







Seriously though I too don't see anywhere where the OP said they were going to brew it. Ratebeer has the abv listed at 2.4%. I don't know that you can mix a 12 oz. bottle of water and vodka to 2.4% abv and come up with 55 calories. Anyone know how to test that theory? Brewsoftware?

Bravo to AB for selling a low-alcohol bier. I'm convinced a majority of their product is consumed to get drunk, which I have a bit of a problem with. (not a neoprohibitionist here, just a commentary on why people drink, think self medicating, social pressure, etc.) Plays into my whole belief that AB is an immoral corporation. Think about it, how often do you see people carrying 18 packs or multiple cases of swill out of the store vs people simply picking up a 6er of flavorful ale!:off:

Schlante,
Phillip

Ps as a side note I have though of brewing something like a 2.5% abv bier with belgian yeast, roast malts, and some late C-hops to get lots of flavor etc. in a very low alc. brew.
 
Wow, I have a feeling that they may use a specialized strain of japaneese dry lager yeast that ferments super dry. Who knows though. This beer is certainly not worth the time to investigate. I think as has been aluded to in earlier posts, that they just water down select and call it good. What a money maker this "healthy" beers are for AB. Less ingredients = less cost + sell for more = $$$$$
 
your body digests alcohol by turning it to sugar. So even fermenting to low final gravitys doesn't change caloric content... Shots of jim bean still have significant calories...

My folks just came back from poland and brought me a few original budweisers-- I would clone that instead... Not pasteurized-- fresh--- It was really good. $20 american dollars gets you a couple cases delivered to your door there...
 
wow a 41.25 calorie 12oz beer here

But for their 55 calorie, my guess is they are going from 1.018 > 1.000

That gets you 2.33 ABV, they round up of course and 54.75 Calories.
 
I'd like to try and make a low calorie/low abv beer. It would be very difficult to make a flawless smooth/crisp tasting low cal/abv beer. As a home brewer I'm up for the challenge. I was thinking maybe making like a 2-3 gal batch of whatever, then diluding it with an water to make 5 gals durring bottling, this would reduce the risk of infection due to low alcohol durring fermintation.
 
Select 55 is in my opinion the best lite beer out there. The flavor is enough to be satisfyingly acceptable without being bloated. And for those that say the ABV is to low drink what you want then and when your liver is distended and sticking out the right side of your abdomen like a small watermelon More Power To You.
 
I'd guess they make this out of a fairly weak grist and additional enzymes to get the beer as dry as possible. You can't avoid the calories in alcohol but you can break down the unfermentable sugars which also contribute to the calorie load. I understand Bud Light is a four hour mash in the low 140s to get the beer that dry but at some point it seems like added enzymes become cheaper than leaving a mash in the tun for an absurd amount of time. If you wanted to make this at home, it seems like a heck of a lot easier than trying to maintain a mash for twelve hours or whatever at the right temperature.
 
hmm, if i was going to brew a extra lite beer...

it'd be something like 5-6lbs base malt
a tad of munich 10.

lightly hopped

and fermented dry with the help of gluco...but for me i'd just end up drinking more of it, so the lower calories really wouldn't matter to me. i'd just end up draining a keg quicker, but honestly if you only need 1-2 low ABV beers to be conntent "WHY NOT"!
 
Did a Brut beer a couple of years ago. Came out OK, won Blue Ribbon in the Experimental category at a local comp.

Don't remember the OG, but FG was 0.998, using amyloglucosidaise enzyme in both the mash and fermentation. The mash itself was a pretty standard Hoch-Kurz step mash, and the fermentation was like most others except for the level of attenuation.

As memory serves, it was 95ish KCals and maybe 3 carbs. Tasted much better than most commercial 'lite' beers.
 
hmm, if i was going to brew a extra lite beer...

it'd be something like 5-6lbs base malt
a tad of munich 10.

lightly hopped

and fermented dry with the help of gluco...but for me i'd just end up drinking more of it, so the lower calories really wouldn't matter to me. i'd just end up draining a keg quicker, but honestly if you only need 1-2 low ABV beers to be conntent "WHY NOT"!
I was going to tag you on this because of your experience using enzymes to make a low-carb brew, but perhaps I shouldn't have taken this post seriously.
 
because of your experience


this was like from 2010....but my 'expience' would be a link to where i pick up a pound from brewhaus for $25...and just pitch it with the yeast....


light beer! it either has more or less calories...but there all alcohol, so it really doesn't matter...
 
According to their advertising materials the Select 55 is made with lightly toasted barley malt and caramel malt.
But their website says 2-row and 6- row barley and rice.
I've been drinking some Busch Light in an effort to reduce calorie/carbs intake and I can't really see myself paying a premium price for Select 55.
I haven't seen the Select 55 in 30 packs, only in 6 packs for about $8 and I'm just not paying that much for a 2.5% beer.
But brewing a decent homebrew version would be an interesting challenge.
So is it possible to get a flavorful homebrew light lager with only 2.5 % ABV and 55 calories?
I can get 30 packs of Busch Light for $20, so I don't see any point in homebrewing a clone of that. But what about version that has more flavor?
Yeah, I've seen all the wisecracks....just piss in a bottle, water it down and call it a day, blah blah, but not everyone can drink DIPA and Imperial Stouts and remain in decent shape.
 
Agree on this completely. We all love craft beer and our own brews. In the weekend when I’m working in the summer heat, I just need something light and reduced calorie to glug down in volume. My choice for this is Coors Light. Better that drinking chilled water……..!
 
I can get 30 packs of Busch Light for $20, so I don't see any point in homebrewing a clone of that. But what about version that has more flavor?


just got this $9.5 for 5 gallons instead of $20 for 3...i think i light munich beer would be pretty good, if you just want refreshing flavored water? (no that's not an insult, it's serious statement)

1659106996522.png



add gluco to get the dry finish....
 
Resurrected a thread from 2010.

My wife and I went through some of these diet, low calorie, and low carb beers. Michelob Ultra, Miller 64, Bud Next, couple others. She wanted to try the keto / low carb thing for awhile. As an aside, we found this diet is next to impossible to stay on as so many good things are high in carbs (pizza alone) and things you wouldn’t think have carbs do.

Anyhow, we found most of these beers are awful. Low carb / low calories / low color / low flavor. Miller 64 is 2.8% alcohol. Ultra is supposed to be one of the best - advertises 2.6 grams of carbs. For my money, I just keep coming back to good old Miller Lite for “diet beer”. It beats them all. And for Ultra’s 95 calories, 2.6 carbs, 4.2% abv - Lite has 96 calories, 3.2 carbs, 4.2% abv. Not that much difference nutritionally but a world of difference in color and flavor. Try any of these diet beers side by side with Lite and see for yourself. The original is still hard to beat - IMO.

5473A08A-DD3B-4535-BB31-D4EBA1C8BC6B.jpeg
 
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Select 55 is in my opinion the best lite beer out there. The flavor is enough to be satisfyingly acceptable without being bloated. And for those that say the ABV is to low drink what you want then and when your liver is distended and sticking out the right side of your abdomen like a small watermelon More Power To You.
Resurrected a thread from 2010.

My wife and I went through some of these diet, low calorie, and low carb beers. Michelob Ultra, Miller 64, Bud Next, couple others. She wanted to try the keto / low carb thing for awhile. As an aside, we found this diet is next to impossible to stay on as so many good things are high in carbs (pizza alone) and things you wouldn’t think have carbs do.

Anyhow, we found most of these beers are awful. Low carb / low calories / low color / low flavor. Miller 64 is 2.8% alcohol. Ultra is supposed to be one of the best - advertises 2.6 grams of carbs. For my money, I just keep coming back to good old Miller Lite for “diet beer”. It beats them all. And for Ultra’s 95 calories, 2.6 carbs, 4.2% abv - Lite has 96 calories, 3.2 carbs, 4.2% abv. Not that much difference nutritionally but a world of difference in color and flavor. Try any of these diet beers side by side with Lite and see for yourself. The original is still hard to beat - IMO.

Michelob ultra is a fantastic beer and I'll die on that hill. A lot of these preferences are regional. Mich ultra and busch lite are pretty popular with farm boys around these parts. I find both to be very crisp and delicate, very refreshing on a hot day and satisfying still in an ice hut in the winter. YMMV

Brewing one of these guys is tricky, but I have spent much time and energy pursuing this objective. I have done probably 4-5 iterations of regular "american lager" (e.g. bud heavy, coors banquet style) brews and about the same of light american lagers. As many professionals and brewing writers have remarked, its a challenging style to do well because the delicate flavor leaves nowhere to hide shortcomings. Things like water chemistry make profound impacts, and yeast variety and health also impart dramatic effects on light gravity worts like this. When brewing one of these it really is more chemical engineering than art or cooking. I can't say I've managed to brew a 55cal beer, but that isn't a goal I find worthwhile TBH. I have, however, gotten pretty low carb beers. This is a thing I am interested in as my wife is pre-diabetic and an IPA will spike her blood sugar needlessly. Plus, I need a good lawnmower beer I can crush on the reg.

In my opinion, a good standard american lager should be approached more like a classic american pilsner or pre-prohibition pilsner. Maybe slightly dialed back in terms of malt complexity and hop bitterness. I have had success with the following (I liked both of these but they were slightly different as I will elaborate):

roughly 2:2:1:1, 2-row: pilsner: rice: corn
This was a pretty good coors banquet/busch tasting beer. Very light in flavor with a touch of sweetness. A bit more sweetness than I wanted and not quite strong enough malt backbone. I brewed this a couple times with different hop schema and yeasts. Its really a good starting point. I also experimented with replacing one of the adjuncts for the other (i.e. 1:1:1 2-row: pils: rice) and its more or less fine... I don't care for that much rice I learned. Anyway, this led to the following formulation:

78% pils, 20% flaked maize, 2% caramunich
I quite like this. Just a touch more complexity, still very crisp and can finish plenty dry if you mash low, step mash etc.

For any standard (not lite) American lager I like to use classic new world hops in the 18-25 ibu range. Higher gets a little pilsnereque and if you want a crushable summer beer its better to be in the 15-18 range. Liberty, crystal, cluster, I use a blend of the three and whirlpool them as well.
My typical OG here is 1.045 and will finish around 1.006-1.008 with 34/70, WLP802, or modelo yeast. I think 802 (budijovic or w/e) is my favorite but 34/70 is prob the biggest crowd pleaser and most balanced. I will say more about modelo (wlp940/ que bueno) later. These gravities will net you around 5% abv and ~150 cal per 12oz. Its not that hard to brew this well, if you have good technique and practices for lager brewing e.g. temp control, build big starters, oxygenate your wort, etc. I have found that while this style benefits from lagering, the amount of time required for what I consider a very good and drinkable beer is quite short compared to other lager styles. Like, a marzen I feel I need to lager for at least a month, 2 preferably as it really does improve that much in that time frame in my experience. With the above beers, 2 weeks is quite adequate. Diminishing returns after that.

Lite beers is where it gets really tricky. In this style I really am shooting for low carb, which means low starting gravity and finishing bone dry. Keeping the beer crisp, but not tasting too dry, comes down to both recipe and water chemistry. I keep the water pretty soft to help here-- sulfites fairly low (20-50ppm), chloride a little higher (50-100ppm) and calcium in the minimum effective range (30-50 for yeast health). Despite experimenting with a fairly wide ibu/sg range, I have found you really do have to keep it low. I have found a few recipe approaches that "work" but I keep going back to this:

2:2:1 2-row: pils: rice or corn.

It gives a very lite and crisp flavor, with just a touch of sweetness. As long as the bitterness is balanced, its really good. Since my starting OG is usually around 1.03-.035, that means keeping the ibu around or under 10. Finishing dry is both a function of mashing and performance enhancing drugs (amylase!). Efficient mashing requires not just temp optimization but pH too, so I adjust pH right after I dough in. 5.2-5.3 is the sweet spot. I will rest at 145 for at least 90 minutes and then up to 160 for half an hour before mash out. As soon as I pitch the yeast, I also add glucoamylase, typically 10ml of white labs ultraferm. Patience pays off and after 2-3 weeks I will hit 1.000 or thereabouts. I find the best suited yeast for this style beer is modelo (wlp940 or imperial que bueno). There is an interesting article in zymurgy or craft beer and brewing or something like that where a blind tasting panel of bjcp judges and normies all rated test beers (same wort, pitched with a panel of yeasts) evaluated this yeast as better than a whole bunch of others, including old reliable (34/70). I really like the unique flavor it imparts, and its a super solid wort chewer to boot. I highly recommend.

So getting back to the whole 55 cal thing... is it doable? I dunno, depends on what you call beer. The above recipe yields a 4% abv beer at 4.5 g of carbs, for about 100 cal per 12oz (assuming 1.030->1.000).
 
Michelob ultra is a fantastic beer and I'll die on that hill. A lot of these preferences are regional. Mich ultra and busch lite are pretty popular with farm boys around these parts. I find both to be very crisp and delicate, very refreshing on a hot day and satisfying still in an ice hut in the winter. YMMV

Brewing one of these guys is tricky, but I have spent much time and energy pursuing this objective. I have done probably 4-5 iterations of regular "american lager" (e.g. bud heavy, coors banquet style) brews and about the same of light american lagers. As many professionals and brewing writers have remarked, its a challenging style to do well because the delicate flavor leaves nowhere to hide shortcomings. Things like water chemistry make profound impacts, and yeast variety and health also impart dramatic effects on light gravity worts like this. When brewing one of these it really is more chemical engineering than art or cooking. I can't say I've managed to brew a 55cal beer, but that isn't a goal I find worthwhile TBH. I have, however, gotten pretty low carb beers. This is a thing I am interested in as my wife is pre-diabetic and an IPA will spike her blood sugar needlessly. Plus, I need a good lawnmower beer I can crush on the reg.

In my opinion, a good standard american lager should be approached more like a classic american pilsner or pre-prohibition pilsner. Maybe slightly dialed back in terms of malt complexity and hop bitterness. I have had success with the following (I liked both of these but they were slightly different as I will elaborate):

roughly 2:2:1:1, 2-row: pilsner: rice: corn
This was a pretty good coors banquet/busch tasting beer. Very light in flavor with a touch of sweetness. A bit more sweetness than I wanted and not quite strong enough malt backbone. I brewed this a couple times with different hop schema and yeasts. Its really a good starting point. I also experimented with replacing one of the adjuncts for the other (i.e. 1:1:1 2-row: pils: rice) and its more or less fine... I don't care for that much rice I learned. Anyway, this led to the following formulation:

78% pils, 20% flaked maize, 2% caramunich
I quite like this. Just a touch more complexity, still very crisp and can finish plenty dry if you mash low, step mash etc.

For any standard (not lite) American lager I like to use classic new world hops in the 18-25 ibu range. Higher gets a little pilsnereque and if you want a crushable summer beer its better to be in the 15-18 range. Liberty, crystal, cluster, I use a blend of the three and whirlpool them as well.
My typical OG here is 1.045 and will finish around 1.006-1.008 with 34/70, WLP802, or modelo yeast. I think 802 (budijovic or w/e) is my favorite but 34/70 is prob the biggest crowd pleaser and most balanced. I will say more about modelo (wlp940/ que bueno) later. These gravities will net you around 5% abv and ~150 cal per 12oz. Its not that hard to brew this well, if you have good technique and practices for lager brewing e.g. temp control, build big starters, oxygenate your wort, etc. I have found that while this style benefits from lagering, the amount of time required for what I consider a very good and drinkable beer is quite short compared to other lager styles. Like, a marzen I feel I need to lager for at least a month, 2 preferably as it really does improve that much in that time frame in my experience. With the above beers, 2 weeks is quite adequate. Diminishing returns after that.

Lite beers is where it gets really tricky. In this style I really am shooting for low carb, which means low starting gravity and finishing bone dry. Keeping the beer crisp, but not tasting too dry, comes down to both recipe and water chemistry. I keep the water pretty soft to help here-- sulfites fairly low (20-50ppm), chloride a little higher (50-100ppm) and calcium in the minimum effective range (30-50 for yeast health). Despite experimenting with a fairly wide ibu/sg range, I have found you really do have to keep it low. I have found a few recipe approaches that "work" but I keep going back to this:

2:2:1 2-row: pils: rice or corn.

It gives a very lite and crisp flavor, with just a touch of sweetness. As long as the bitterness is balanced, its really good. Since my starting OG is usually around 1.03-.035, that means keeping the ibu around or under 10. Finishing dry is both a function of mashing and performance enhancing drugs (amylase!). Efficient mashing requires not just temp optimization but pH too, so I adjust pH right after I dough in. 5.2-5.3 is the sweet spot. I will rest at 145 for at least 90 minutes and then up to 160 for half an hour before mash out. As soon as I pitch the yeast, I also add glucoamylase, typically 10ml of white labs ultraferm. Patience pays off and after 2-3 weeks I will hit 1.000 or thereabouts. I find the best suited yeast for this style beer is modelo (wlp940 or imperial que bueno). There is an interesting article in zymurgy or craft beer and brewing or something like that where a blind tasting panel of bjcp judges and normies all rated test beers (same wort, pitched with a panel of yeasts) evaluated this yeast as better than a whole bunch of others, including old reliable (34/70). I really like the unique flavor it imparts, and its a super solid wort chewer to boot. I highly recommend.

So getting back to the whole 55 cal thing... is it doable? I dunno, depends on what you call beer. The above recipe yields a 4% abv beer at 4.5 g of carbs, for about 100 cal per 12oz (assuming 1.030->1.000).
Great post with lots of details. Thanks for taking the time to post all that.

2:2:1:1 2 row, pils, rice, corn works out to 1/3 of the malt bill in adjunct. A bit high percentage but as you said could be in line with a pre-pro. A pre-pro recipe would have at least some percentage of 6-row with that much adjunct. If you went 2:2:2:1:1 6 row, 2 row, pils, corn, rice then it would be about 25% adjunct with 12% ish 6 row. I usually just use corn. I have never used corn and rice in the same recipe.

Several people jokingly mentioned watering. But there’s no reason that couldn’t be a thing. What if you brewed something like a 3 gallon batch at 7% and then added 2 gallons of distilled water at the end? Is it as simple as 7 x 3 = 21 / 5 = 4.2%?

Would it be better to ferment the 3 gallons at 7% and add water to the finished beer in the keg or to add 2 gallons of water before fermentation and ferment the weaker beer? If you brew a stronger beer and water it then I’d think you could even use some darker malts since watering will lighten the color. Dark munich maybe.

I’d agree though that getting 55 calories, even watering the beer, is going to be hard. I’ve never used the enzymes like ultraferm. I have read if you do that you should dedicate a fermenter because it kind of hangs around into subsequent batches and its hard to get rid of.

For water, I’ve been in other discussions with people who know this stuff saying for American lager you want low minerals all around. Something like 25 calcium, 30-35 chloride and 30-35 sulfate. (Balanced) I don’t bother adjusting magnesium or sodium but by the time I dilute my water to get these other numbers low, it brings those down too. I did this profile for my last American lager and liked it.
 
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Great post with lots of details. Thanks for taking the time to post all that.

2:2:1:1 2 row, pils, rice, corn works out to 1/3 of the malt bill in adjunct. A bit high percentage but as you said could be in line with a pre-pro. A pre-pro recipe would have at least some percentage of 6-row with that much adjunct. If you went 2:2:2:1:1 6 row, 2 row, pils, corn, rice then it would be about 25% adjunct with 12% ish 6 row. I usually just use corn. I have never used corn and rice in the same recipe.

Several people jokingly mentioned watering. But there’s no reason that couldn’t be a thing. What if you brewed something like a 3 gallon batch at 7% and then added 2 gallons of distilled water at the end? Is it as simple as 7 x 3 = 21 / 5 = 4.2%?

Would it be better to ferment the 3 gallons at 7% and add water to the finished beer in the keg or to add 2 gallons of water before fermentation and ferment the weaker beer? If you brew a stronger beer and water it then I’d think you could even use some darker malts since watering will lighten the color. Dark munich maybe.

I’d agree though that getting 55 calories, even watering the beer, is going to be hard. I’ve never used the enzymes like ultraferm. I have read if you do that you should dedicate a fermenter because it kind of hangs around into subsequent batches and its hard to get rid of.

For water, I’ve been in other discussions with people who know this stuff saying for American lager you want low minerals all around. Something like 25 calcium, 30-35 chloride and 30-35 sulfate. (Balanced) I don’t bother adjusting magnesium or sodium but by the time I dilute my water to get these other numbers low, it brings those down too. I did this profile for my last American lager and liked it.
From what I have read/heard, the only caution against adding water to already fermented beer is that you have to worry about the Dissolved Oxygen levels in the water. Breweries that do this de-aerate their water so oxidation doesn't occur, but for us at the homebrew level it's a little more complicated. Some home brewers will add a little sugar and yeast to their water in order for the yeast to scrub out the Oxygen. I am not sure how effective this is on our scale, so I just do full size batches or add the water in prior to fermentation to lower the Starting Gravity.
 
From what I have read/heard, the only caution against adding water to already fermented beer is that you have to worry about the Dissolved Oxygen levels in the water. Breweries that do this de-aerate their water so oxidation doesn't occur, but for us at the homebrew level it's a little more complicated. Some home brewers will add a little sugar and yeast to their water in order for the yeast to scrub out the Oxygen. I am not sure how effective this is on our scale, so I just do full size batches or add the water in prior to fermentation to lower the Starting Gravity.
What if I used gallon jugs of distilled water from Walmart or the supermarket?
 
What if I used gallon jugs of distilled water from Walmart or the supermarket?
Honestly, I haven't any idea how to gauge the effect it will have on a post-fermentation brew. Aside from having a Dissolved Oxygen meter/tester, maybe @IslandLizard or @doug293cz or one of the other mods has a chart for estimating? I have read a lot of the LODO posts, and they use the sugar&yeast method to knock all of the O2 out of their mash water. Other than hops and the occasional vodka-based tincture, I am nervous about adding anything other than CO2 to a fermented brew. Unless I am trying to infect or oxidize my beer, but there is usually a plan for that as well. Usually.
 
Michelob ultra is a fantastic beer and I'll die on that hill. A lot of these preferences are regional. Mich ultra and busch lite are pretty popular with farm boys around these parts. I find both to be very crisp and delicate, very refreshing on a hot day and satisfying still in an ice hut in the winter. YMMV

Brewing one of these guys is tricky, but I have spent much time and energy pursuing this objective. I have done probably 4-5 iterations of regular "american lager" (e.g. bud heavy, coors banquet style) brews and about the same of light american lagers. As many professionals and brewing writers have remarked, its a challenging style to do well because the delicate flavor leaves nowhere to hide shortcomings. Things like water chemistry make profound impacts, and yeast variety and health also impart dramatic effects on light gravity worts like this. When brewing one of these it really is more chemical engineering than art or cooking. I can't say I've managed to brew a 55cal beer, but that isn't a goal I find worthwhile TBH. I have, however, gotten pretty low carb beers. This is a thing I am interested in as my wife is pre-diabetic and an IPA will spike her blood sugar needlessly. Plus, I need a good lawnmower beer I can crush on the reg.

In my opinion, a good standard american lager should be approached more like a classic american pilsner or pre-prohibition pilsner. Maybe slightly dialed back in terms of malt complexity and hop bitterness. I have had success with the following (I liked both of these but they were slightly different as I will elaborate):

roughly 2:2:1:1, 2-row: pilsner: rice: corn
This was a pretty good coors banquet/busch tasting beer. Very light in flavor with a touch of sweetness. A bit more sweetness than I wanted and not quite strong enough malt backbone. I brewed this a couple times with different hop schema and yeasts. Its really a good starting point. I also experimented with replacing one of the adjuncts for the other (i.e. 1:1:1 2-row: pils: rice) and its more or less fine... I don't care for that much rice I learned. Anyway, this led to the following formulation:

78% pils, 20% flaked maize, 2% caramunich
I quite like this. Just a touch more complexity, still very crisp and can finish plenty dry if you mash low, step mash etc.

For any standard (not lite) American lager I like to use classic new world hops in the 18-25 ibu range. Higher gets a little pilsnereque and if you want a crushable summer beer its better to be in the 15-18 range. Liberty, crystal, cluster, I use a blend of the three and whirlpool them as well.
My typical OG here is 1.045 and will finish around 1.006-1.008 with 34/70, WLP802, or modelo yeast. I think 802 (budijovic or w/e) is my favorite but 34/70 is prob the biggest crowd pleaser and most balanced. I will say more about modelo (wlp940/ que bueno) later. These gravities will net you around 5% abv and ~150 cal per 12oz. Its not that hard to brew this well, if you have good technique and practices for lager brewing e.g. temp control, build big starters, oxygenate your wort, etc. I have found that while this style benefits from lagering, the amount of time required for what I consider a very good and drinkable beer is quite short compared to other lager styles. Like, a marzen I feel I need to lager for at least a month, 2 preferably as it really does improve that much in that time frame in my experience. With the above beers, 2 weeks is quite adequate. Diminishing returns after that.

Lite beers is where it gets really tricky. In this style I really am shooting for low carb, which means low starting gravity and finishing bone dry. Keeping the beer crisp, but not tasting too dry, comes down to both recipe and water chemistry. I keep the water pretty soft to help here-- sulfites fairly low (20-50ppm), chloride a little higher (50-100ppm) and calcium in the minimum effective range (30-50 for yeast health). Despite experimenting with a fairly wide ibu/sg range, I have found you really do have to keep it low. I have found a few recipe approaches that "work" but I keep going back to this:

2:2:1 2-row: pils: rice or corn.

It gives a very lite and crisp flavor, with just a touch of sweetness. As long as the bitterness is balanced, its really good. Since my starting OG is usually around 1.03-.035, that means keeping the ibu around or under 10. Finishing dry is both a function of mashing and performance enhancing drugs (amylase!). Efficient mashing requires not just temp optimization but pH too, so I adjust pH right after I dough in. 5.2-5.3 is the sweet spot. I will rest at 145 for at least 90 minutes and then up to 160 for half an hour before mash out. As soon as I pitch the yeast, I also add glucoamylase, typically 10ml of white labs ultraferm. Patience pays off and after 2-3 weeks I will hit 1.000 or thereabouts. I find the best suited yeast for this style beer is modelo (wlp940 or imperial que bueno). There is an interesting article in zymurgy or craft beer and brewing or something like that where a blind tasting panel of bjcp judges and normies all rated test beers (same wort, pitched with a panel of yeasts) evaluated this yeast as better than a whole bunch of others, including old reliable (34/70). I really like the unique flavor it imparts, and its a super solid wort chewer to boot. I highly recommend.

So getting back to the whole 55 cal thing... is it doable? I dunno, depends on what you call beer. The above recipe yields a 4% abv beer at 4.5 g of carbs, for about 100 cal per 12oz (assuming 1.030->1.000).

Great summation, and thanks for the results of your trial batches. I've brewed several 'experimental' low carb/calorie beers that turned out well, and will benefit from your tips in future iterations.

Amyloglucosidase will definitely get your FG below 1.000 (0.995 is achievable, but gets pretty thin; 0.998 was a good sweetspot target). Andechs strain yeasts seem to work really well. I've used Wyeast 2105-PC and WLP-835x, and Imperial also has a seasonal Andechs yeast as well. Hops combos of Cluster, Nugget and Liberty are great 'team players', and a touch of six row adds another element of North American character.
 

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