American Sour Beer – Book!

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Great post on the blog today. It's the American saison chapter... Damn editors!

At one point the editor complained that it was almost impossible to cut anything because any time she tried I presented a great reason for why we should keep it. That worked for many of the smaller chunks, but when it came to the entire chapters I just did my best to bail the best stuff out to other places.

The trimmed stuff so far:
American Saison - Reimagining Farmhouse Brewing
Kvass - Liquid Sourdough Beer
Adding Spices and Herbs to Sour Beers
Gruits and Other Hopless Beers
Pairing and Cooking with Sour Beer
Commercial Microbe Descriptions
Bottle Dregs to Harvest
 
Unbelievable.

That would drive me nuts if was a book I wrote.

Read the saison blog. Very nice. Question about bottle conditioning a saison. If you use a saison strain for primary fermentation, then bottle condition with Brett after the saison has reached terminal gravity: 1.) how much priming "sugar" and what kind of sugar should/could you use? 2.) how long would you expect it would take for the Brett to contribute its funk and achieve proper carbonation?

I would imagine that carbonation would be complete in two weeks, primarily because of the residual saison yeast, but that funk might take more time to develop. Max ferm temps and residual CO2 estimates never seem to be highly accurate in my experience. Would hate to wind up with an uncarbonated saison.

TD


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Adding Brett at bottling is inherently risky because it is so attenuative. There is no simple answer to your question because it would depend on the strain of Brett, the dextrin profile, and your desired carbonation.

The saison strain would likely ferment the priming sugar in standard time. However, the Brett could continue to generate additional carbonation for another year both from dextrins and sugars released as the brewer's yeast undergoes autolysis. A drop of about .003 is full carbonation for a saison, so that plus priming sugar is trouble.

I'd try to get the beer as dry as possible before bottling and prime with the standard amount. Brett doesn't need carbohydrates to make it's signature funky flavors. It'll take 3-6 months to get to a good place, but will keep evolving after that. Use thick bottles if you can, and sample regularly!

Good luck!
 
Now what if there were some sort of modified bottle caps for sour beers that let off extra pressure beyond what's needed to serve with? Bottle caps with relief valves that could be purchased for low, medium, or high carbonation. Even if it cost pennies more that'd still be money toward securing the quality and safety of a sour beer after a year of aging.

There's been a lot of development in the product of sour beers and beer in general but not on the packaging it would seem. We're still using bottles and cans.
 
On thick bottles. Corsendonk's 11.2oz beers are wicked strong. I dropped one last night and while it was falling, I was like "so much for that bottle". Didn't break or even crack. Really thick glass.

In general I found European beers to be in better glass than American counterparts.
 
Mike, on page 25 "Wort Production" under "Recipe Overview", what is indicated by some of the styles being italicized?

Just that they (wit, saison, dubbel etc.) are foreign words being used for the first time.
 
Now what if there were some sort of modified bottle caps for sour beers that let off extra pressure beyond what's needed to serve with? Bottle caps with relief valves that could be purchased for low, medium, or high carbonation. Even if it cost pennies more that'd still be money toward securing the quality and safety of a sour beer after a year of aging.

There's been a lot of development in the product of sour beers and beer in general but not on the packaging it would seem. We're still using bottles and cans.

Corks do this to some extent, don't they? I don't know for sure, but I've always figured a corked&caged bottle would be less prone to explode because excess carbonation can push the cork out against the cage a little further.
 
Possible errata (sorry didn't check your blog first to see if it is known).

P 81. Discussing pitch rates it says 5:1 ratio by cell count is recommended. Then it says the bacteria are only 10% the size of a yeast cell. Then it's says if pitching by volume assuming equal density, that the ratio would be 2:1.

I'm not a mathematical genius, but it seems confusing, and possibly mathematically incorrect to say a volume based pitch ratio of 2:1 is equivalent to a cell count based ratio of 2:1 due to difference of cellular size, which it infers is a 10:1 ratio, being that the bacteria is only 10% the size of the yeast. In my mind, it seems that a 2:1 bacteria to yeast volumetric ratio would equate to a 20:1 cellular pitch ratio when pitching an equal density culture.

Anyways, if my math is wrong I apologize.

TD

Edit- hmm, seems I was mis-reading the ratio which you specified bacteria to yeast of 1:2, which for some reason I mentally transposed into 2:1, the opposite. The 1:2 makes sense. Sorry.


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Awesome book Michael! Thank you for providing us with such a great resource! Congrats on a great book.

Jeff


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Cheers everyone!

For anyone in the DC-area, I'll be signing copies at Right Proper Brewing from 5-7 PM tonight (7/2). They'll be pouring the tart/citrusy "Farmhouse Radler" Nathan and I brewed (started with a pure Lacto ferment, then their house mixed saison-Brett blend). Lots of citrusy hops plus actual citrus zest as well.

Likely more book events coming over the next few months at various breweries and bars.
 
Have been waiting anxiously for this book, have read the first few chapters- fantastic book! Great information, well explained, with appropriate history and background.

I love sours, and plan to learn to be good at them, thanks for being a big part of that!i
 
Got my copy yesterday afternoon and half way through chapter four! Thanks for a great book I just can't seem to put it down. The more I read the more I want to know. If you make your way up to the Harrisburg Pa area, please let me know, love to get my copy signed and hoist a sour with you!! Thank again for a great book!

CHEERS!


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You should come to Charlotte and get Lenny Boy's to work up some recipe and process info on their Kentucky Creeper!!!

Kentucky Creeper 4.4% ABV, Gluten Free! - This wild child was created in the heat of the summer using North Carolina staples! Our in-house culture delivers a fruity nose with a sour punch. Aged for months in a Kentucky Oak barrel, this will surely "creep" up on y'all!Ingredients: NC Watermelons, Elderberries, & NC Black Muscadine grapes and colored with Hibiscus flowers (pink color).

http://www.discoverlennyboy.com/
 
Just got my book delivered today....great read so far, cannot wait to experiment over the coming years.
 
The fermenters and wood aging chapter is the best assembly of such info on the subject anywhere. Thanks Mike. There is a little bit of that spread all over different. books, lectures, presentations, podcasts... this really does a tidy job of tying everything together into a meaningful summary through the writer's insight and experience.

Can't comment on the rest...i'm not done yet....
 
I got Esen right for De Dolle on page 64 too... sorry for the inconsistencies.

Compiling the errata here: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/p/errata.html

Yeah, I got to it a bit after posting this. Did the editor just breeze over names thinking they were probably correct? It happens.

Great book so far. I'll be dog-earing mine for years to come.

And thinks for the errata page, I'll have to ink the changes in my copy.
 
Yeah, I got to it a bit after posting this. Did the editor just breeze over names thinking they were probably correct? It happens.

Great book so far. I'll be dog-earing mine for years to come.

And thinks for the errata page, I'll have to ink the changes in my copy.

I was asked to add those relatively late in the process, may have been after the Belgian Tech Editor did his thing.
 
Finished reading the book. Thanks for the wonderful book! I found it to be very well written and easy to understand, and very direct. I liked that you included some insights and partial recipes from commercial breweries, not necessarily that I am looking for making any specific clones at the moment. I especially like the chapter about commercial souring methods, and comparing how each brewery has it differences in production.

I did have a couple questions (again), and this seems to be an appropriate place to ask.

I see in the Spontaneous Fermentation chapter, you briefly discuss another commercial sour producer, Jester King. I am sure it was difficult to determine which commercial breweries to include in the commercial souring methods, and which to exclude when narrowing down the content for the book. I am wondering if you are able to elaborate a little more about the souring methods used by Jester King however. From what I have gleaned, their methods appear similar to Allagash- saision 1º fermentation (presumably in stainless), add cultured wild yeast for secondary fermentation (presumably in barrels). The three wild isolates they use at JK are unspecified, but in my limited tastings it seems there is definitely a farmhouse "funk" beyond what I would expect in a clean saison strain. I think Brett is a safe assumption therefore, especially considering the use of barrels. Their bottles appear to indicate presence of bacteria, presumably lactobacillus and pediococcus. The specific strains are unknown, but one could simply use bottle dregs. I am wondering if there are any other quirks to their process that you might be aware of.

I think that I'd like to try brewing a basic flemish red after reading your inspiring book. On page 311, you give a recipe. The recipe includes two yeasts and dregs. I cannot determine the intended use of each yeast, and was wondering if you could clarify? I am predicting that the ESB yeast would be for primary fermentation, and then the dregs and the Roeselare Blend would be added to the secondary with the oak cubes (or into a barrel if you have one).

I have read (not sure where) that re-using Roeselare Blend from a previous fermentation provides more pronounced funk and sour attributes than the initial use produces. I currently have a strong stout that has been soured (1º fermentation with Roeselare pitched from a smack pack) and is now in a secondary vessel aging about 8 months old now. I am contemplating racking that onto some cherries/raspberries possibly for 2-3 months to add some additional flavors and gain access to the yeast cake for souring another beer - the Flemish Red recipe from your book. I wonder if you would advise simply racking onto the entire yeast cake, or only a portion of the yeast cake? I know that for clean beers, using the entire cake would be grossly overpitching, but I am not certain if in a secondary fermentation sour beer, if there would be any negative consequences.

My last question is in regards to acquiring used barrels, aged hops, and sour cherries. Any general advice about where to look (online?) for this stuff? I assume that most commercial breweries (and homebrewers) use canned sour cherries unless that have the good fortune of having a local sour cherry orchard.

Thanks!

TD
 
I see in the Spontaneous Fermentation chapter, you briefly discuss another commercial sour producer, Jester King. I am sure it was difficult to determine which commercial breweries to include in the commercial souring methods, and which to exclude when narrowing down the content for the book. I am wondering if you are able to elaborate a little more about the souring methods used by Jester King however. From what I have gleaned, their methods appear similar to Allagash- saision 1º fermentation (presumably in stainless), add cultured wild yeast for secondary fermentation (presumably in barrels). The three wild isolates they use at JK are unspecified, but in my limited tastings it seems there is definitely a farmhouse "funk" beyond what I would expect in a clean saison strain. I think Brett is a safe assumption therefore, especially considering the use of barrels. Their bottles appear to indicate presence of bacteria, presumably lactobacillus and pediococcus. The specific strains are unknown, but one could simply use bottle dregs. I am wondering if there are any other quirks to their process that you might be aware of.

If you haven't seen it already, Garrett Crowell from Jester King says some interesting things about their process (particularly their yeast management) in this AMA thread: http://www.talkbeer.com/community/threads/garrett-crowell.7882/
 
My last question is in regards to acquiring used barrels, aged hops, and sour cherries. Any general advice about where to look (online?) for this stuff? I assume that most commercial breweries (and homebrewers) use canned sour cherries unless that have the good fortune of having a local sour cherry orchard.

Barrels are quite expensive - use his Oak Cube formula in glass (.15 oz per gallon). Same results at a fraction of the price point.

Cherries - this one I have researched quite a bit. The below link is to a supplier that has a few FAQs about how much to use when adding to beer - aka Beer Friendly. (1 quart of 68 brix = 20lbs of cherries). Slightly strong for a 5 gallon batch but I LOVE cherries....

http://kingorchards.com/shop/?product=2

Best prices I've found. I'll be using their Cherry Juice Concentrate for a few of my sours very soon here... concentrated to 68 brix - this stuff won't freeze...
 
Barrels are quite expensive - use his Oak Cube formula in glass (.15 oz per gallon). Same results at a fraction of the price point.

Cherries - this one I have researched quite a bit. The below link is to a supplier that has a few FAQs about how much to use when adding to beer - aka Beer Friendly. (1 quart of 68 brix = 20lbs of cherries). Slightly strong for a 5 gallon batch but I LOVE cherries....

http://kingorchards.com/shop/?product=2

Best prices I've found. I'll be using their Cherry Juice Concentrate for a few of my sours very soon here... concentrated to 68 brix - this stuff won't freeze...


Have used King Orchards before to get canned tart (montmorency) cherries in water, no preservatives. Compared to fresh Balaton cherries, the results are inferior, for pies at least IMHO. The cost for fresh cherries was $9/lb and still is I believe (earthy delight . com something). Overnight shipping only. Cherries were excellent but expensive. Still looking for a source, but have a list or orchards to call. This season they are late and there is about 2 weeks or so until harvest, on account of the vicious winter this year. Ideally would like IQF or even bulk frozen with minimal processing from the local grocery, but have never seen them before in any significant quantity, and usually extremely expensive. I think in a beer the canned King Orchards will be my go-to unless I discover another option that's reasonable in terms of cost. Also, there is free shipping available from traverse bay farms on their cherry juice concentrate if you buy 6x16oz bottles, the King's Orchard price point is better however. It sounds like you have used the cherry juice concentrate before? How is it compared with whole cherries in beer?


TD
 
This concentrate - yes. I have never done a side by side with whole cherries. I just know that whole $12-15 a pound around here as they are not grown here. This stuff is less than $1 a pound. Economics wins for me in this one.

Now Georgia an South Carolina Peaches are right down the street from me. A BUNCH of those are going into some ECY20 in the next few months.... For Peaches I think i'll target 3lbs per gallon!
 
I did have a couple questions (again), and this seems to be an appropriate place to ask.

Jester King has gone through a number of iterations of their process, and I'm no expert on it. Last I heard they were using beer from established barrels, blending them into the primary fermented beer to inoculate, then going into barrels for souring. Not sure how that has changed with the coolship online. Using their dregs and some 3711 would be a great start.

I tend to pitch all of the bugs/yeast together at the same time. Great results for me. You could get away with just pitching Roeselare if it is fresh and the beer is low gravity, but a healthy pitch of brewer's yeast is good to ensure a quick start. Similar story for using a yeast cake. I'd pitch a half cup of the slurry along with some fresh yeast.

I try to buy fruit in season, wash, freeze, and vacuum bag. There are lots of other cherry options: Russian River uses dried, Cambridge uses concentrate, you can even find frozen sometimes. I'm not up on the best online sources, looks like a couple others have already chimed in. Aged hops you can get from Hops Direct or Freshops usually (or just ask for old low AA% hops at the local homebrew store). Barrels are sporadic, Balcones show up on a few sites: http://www.homebrewing.org/Used-5-gallon-whiskey-barrel_p_2187.html and Woodinville sells direct: http://www.woodinvillewhiskeycostore.com/barrels/

Cheers, glad you enjoyed the book!
 
I've been happy with the buying fruit in season and freezing it scheme. Tis the season too.

I don't know if this warrants another thread but a couple of related questions:
1. Hops and Lambic...the use of aged hops is to avoid bitterness but still get the antimicrobial benefits of the hop oils, yes? Also why these are more influenced by pedio than lacto, right? Could we use a low AA, high humulene oil, hop be used in a sub-175*F post boil addition instead of aged hops in the boil? How much hop flavor and aroma could we reasonably expect to survive 1+ years of aging on bacteria and Brett?

2. Oak character vs. Oxygen infusion...ever since reading Wild Brews (and gone unanswered since) I've wondered about the true influence and benefits of aging in oak barrels vs. The adhoc methods we use (oak chips, vessels of varying permeability, permeable carboy caps) are trying to replicate the effects of an oak barrel. The hiccup that I keep thinking about is if the Brett does benefit from some oxygen infusion over very long ferments and benefits from food extracted from the oak over such long time spans as well...are homebrew methods replicating this well? Oak cubes will be 'food'. But is O2 through a cap beneficial at all? The miniscule amount needs to penetrate the pellicle. Small barrels provide too much oak influence. Should we be looking for options?
 
I've been happy with the buying fruit in season and freezing it scheme. Tis the season too.



I don't know if this warrants another thread but a couple of related questions:

1. Hops and Lambic...the use of aged hops is to avoid bitterness but still get the antimicrobial benefits of the hop oils, yes? Also why these are more influenced by pedio than lacto, right? Could we use a low AA, high humulene oil, hop be used in a sub-175*F post boil addition instead of aged hops in the boil? How much hop flavor and aroma could we reasonably expect to survive 1+ years of aging on bacteria and Brett?



2. Oak character vs. Oxygen infusion...ever since reading Wild Brews (and gone unanswered since) I've wondered about the true influence and benefits of aging in oak barrels vs. The adhoc methods we use (oak chips, vessels of varying permeability, permeable carboy caps) are trying to replicate the effects of an oak barrel. The hiccup that I keep thinking about is if the Brett does benefit from some oxygen infusion over very long ferments and benefits from food extracted from the oak over such long time spans as well...are homebrew methods replicating this well? Oak cubes will be 'food'. But is O2 through a cap beneficial at all? The miniscule amount needs to penetrate the pellicle. Small barrels provide too much oak influence. Should we be looking for options?


Maybe I misunderstood, but it was my impression that the beta acids are what confer the antimicrobial effect, not the hop oils. Also I thought the lacto was more inhibited by them than the pediococcus. As far as hop flavor and aroma, you are right, that none really makes it into your glass due to the prolonged aging.

I think for me, that the solera option is an attractive one. I'm looking for some 10-15 gallon barrels and would ideally want to try to find some that have lost most of their oak flavor. I suspect that after enough use, that you can get to the point where, even in smaller sized barrels, that there is little to no oak character. I want to move away from glass for safety reasons. Now I'm using a combination of glass and plastic carboys that I've acquired over the years.

One question for Oldsock, is about punch down. Some fruited sour beer brewers perform a punch down on their open fermented beers, but not the closed fermented ones ( I suspect simply because there is no means to do so). I have heard that some fruit, such as cherries, and blueberries and raspberries can lend an acetic character and its better to punch down. I'm wondering if even weighting them down with a plate or something would provide similar benefit.

Found a resource for pitted IQF tart cherries in four pound bags, shipped four bags (12# total) to a box (styrofoam lined). $48 ($4/lb) including cost of the box ($9.50), but NOT counting shipping. Both varieties are currently available. I am told that they will still have stock in the winter, and I'll probably try to order then so that I can save on shipping without having the fruit thaw. Thinking about one box of each variety for a ten gallon batch. Think I'll brew the beer soon, and save the cherry addition for the last few months of aging.

TD




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I'm certain it was the oils. I thought it was that the oils literally glob onto the lacto bacteria, iirc?

I guess that sentence about pedio vs lacto can be mis read..."Also why these [lambic beers] are more influenced by pedio than lacto, right?"

Yes, I like the solera idea as well. Actually for a sour pale base beer (all pils ... some torrified wheat and flaked adjuncts specifically for bug food) to blend with random fresh beers of misc style, but I was thinking 10-15 gallon corney.
 
I've been happy with the buying fruit in season and freezing it scheme. Tis the season too.

I don't know if this warrants another thread but a couple of related questions:
1. Hops and Lambic...the use of aged hops is to avoid bitterness but still get the antimicrobial benefits of the hop oils, yes? Also why these are more influenced by pedio than lacto, right? Could we use a low AA, high humulene oil, hop be used in a sub-175*F post boil addition instead of aged hops in the boil? How much hop flavor and aroma could we reasonably expect to survive 1+ years of aging on bacteria and Brett?

2. Oak character vs. Oxygen infusion...ever since reading Wild Brews (and gone unanswered since) I've wondered about the true influence and benefits of aging in oak barrels vs. The adhoc methods we use (oak chips, vessels of varying permeability, permeable carboy caps) are trying to replicate the effects of an oak barrel. The hiccup that I keep thinking about is if the Brett does benefit from some oxygen infusion over very long ferments and benefits from food extracted from the oak over such long time spans as well...are homebrew methods replicating this well? Oak cubes will be 'food'. But is O2 through a cap beneficial at all? The miniscule amount needs to penetrate the pellicle. Small barrels provide too much oak influence. Should we be looking for options?

Humulene isn’t much of a factor in my understanding of a hop’s antimicrobial properties. I don’t think a low temperature steep is very effective either, it is the isomerized alpha and oxidized beta-acids (both of which need boiling). If you are doing a spontaneous fermentation you could likely get away with simply targeting 20-25 IBUs of un-aged hops, which should be down near the bitterness threshold after a year or two of aging. If you are asking the biological reason that Pedio is less hop-sensitive than Lactobacillus (in general), sadly not my area of expertise.

I don’t find oxygen to be an essential factor in aging sour beers. Adding some sub-threshold acetic acid can be beneficial for some styles/palates, as can low levels ethyl acetate. Oxygen that gets into the fermentor through any method is just as good for this purpose. I actually get Brett character the quickest when pitching at bottling, a very low oxygen environment. Oak is much more important for direct flavor contribution than it is for the tiny amount of cellobiose (which only some strains of Brett are capable of fermenting).

One question for Oldsock, is about punch down. Some fruited sour beer brewers perform a punch down on their open fermented beers, but not the closed fermented ones ( I suspect simply because there is no means to do so). I have heard that some fruit, such as cherries, and blueberries and raspberries can lend an acetic character and its better to punch down. I'm wondering if even weighting them down with a plate or something would provide similar benefit.

Oxygen is the only thing that will lead to the creation of acetic acid in beer. I don’t know how fruit and punching down would play a role (other than allowing air in during the punch down) – source? Pushing the fruit down into the beer would help with flavor and color extraction, and certainly could change the character of the beer, but I don’t see how it would change the acid profile. I guess in an open fermentor I could see the fruit hanging out above the beer-line causing issues, but not many breweries age fruit beers open to the air.
 
Excuse my ignorance then.

I was thinking we could potentially use fresh hops late rather than old hops early. Apparently not.

Limited benefit to oak? Hmmm, surprising. Corneys it is then.

Thanks for the reply, Mike.
 
Finished the book last night. Going to re-read as I started a month ago, but initial thoughts are: "if you are thinking of getting into sour beers, this is an excellent book to start with."
 
Just ordered mine to arrive tomorrow. I can't wait to read this one. It will be added to my other 2 parts of my "brewing bible." BLAM and Wild Ales are books I take everywhere with me! I'm sure this will be added in and fit quite nicely!
 
Great review of the book posted by Stan Hieronymus posted to his blog:

"I often receive questions about brewing sour beers, generally ones that are above my level of expertise. I am delighted that although the premise is different — in this case, not referring to questions I find simple and repetitive, but ones that should be answered by somebody who knows what he is talking about — that now I can reply, 'Read the $#&*% Tonsmire.'"
 
Great review of the book posted by Stan Hieronymus posted to his blog:

"I often receive questions about brewing sour beers, generally ones that are above my level of expertise. I am delighted that although the premise is different — in this case, not referring to questions I find simple and repetitive, but ones that should be answered by somebody who knows what he is talking about — that now I can reply, 'Read the $#&*% Tonsmire.'"

Awesome praise! I'm really looking forward to diving in.
 
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