100% Stainless Heating Element

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Bobby_M said:
Here's where I'm at. The 5500 watt I was about to pull the trigger on was a pre-spec'd design that measured 14". It would have been fine for direct installs in most kegs and pots, but I knew it wouldn't fit with my new HotRod heat stick hardware included. If I'm going to go with a large quantity to keep the cost down, I wanted it to fit more applications while still keeping it LWD. Long story short, I had to spec out a new design at 12" long with an offset so that the bundle of four tubes (the pair and the foldback) will be centered on the mount bushing. Why? It will fit our RIMS tube like a glove also.

So, the same element will now be able to fit direct installs, heat stick use, and RIMs use. As soon as they get the design drawn up and quoted for me, I'll know the ETA.

At this time, I'm not going after an ULWD ripple design because I anticipate the LWD of around 120 watts per sq.in. to be fine for boils.
Click to expand...

Bobby,
Any update on availability for your new elements? I'm very anxious for the 5500w version, as it may be the only one that fits a smaller pot. It's the last piece I need to go fully electric!
 
Got my order in for a new element and a HotRod kit! Looking forward to getting to electric brewing sooner than the finances initially were going to allow. Now to see how cheap I can build a controller to work with my Brewbit for HLT heating and boil control.

Wired and ready!

20140514_183819.jpg
 
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I got my kettle setup with Bobby's new 5500 watt element, the silversolder tri-clover fitting and element cord relief over the weekend, and it was a smashing success.

This setup fit into a 12" pot perfectly! I was pretty sure that with the tri-clover fitting it would fit, and there is about 3/4" to spare. Brewed a hefe on Sunday, and could not be happier with my setup. In my 8 gallon pot this beast will heat up fast. On 100% it was up over 100F by the time I had it filled to the top with 60F water. Water flow was slow, as it's from a humidifier tap in my cold water line, with 1/4 OD tubing and carbon filter, but was not more than 5 min.

My power control has excellent range with this element. Having an electronics background and having worked with these controls before I know that the range rarely covers the full turn of the knob control, and most don't even turn on until you get to around 50%. I found that you can buy a "reverse logarithmic taper" potentiometer, and that gives a far better operational range. I used the same thing on a blower for a bronze melting furnace and was hopeful enough that it would work here too, so I bought 2 back then. Glad I did. Good rolling boil at about 25%, and easily tweaked instead of too much or too little.

Great products Bobby!
 
I've been looking for a 1500W 240V SS element but I can't find one in the webshops mentioned. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
I don't think anyone has a 1500w. The issue is that there are certain order minimums to make the numbers work out and I don't think I'd sell enough to make it. Most people have a 20amp circuit in their kitchen. If you don't, you can always run a 12 gauge extension cord to a spot where you do have a 20 amp, assuming that is less than 50 ft away.
 
My control panel has three 240v circuits and one 120v circuit. A SS 240v 2500w element would be nice for my RIMS. I could rewire my RIMS circuit to 120v and run Bobby's 240v 5500w SS element but that would be pain. I also question if doing that what the performance would be like doing 20g batches.
 
Blktre said:
My control panel has three 240v circuits and one 120v circuit. A SS 240v 2500w element would be nice for my RIMS. I could rewire my RIMS circuit to 120v and run Bobby's 240v 5500w SS element but that would be pain. I also question if doing that what the performance would be like doing 20g batches.
Click to expand...

My custom panel uses 120/240. I have a pair of contactors and a selector switch on my RIMS element for 'high' and 'low' operation. Low is 120, high is 240, 1375/4500. A simple flip of the switch to select. The boil kettle is strictly 240. This is a 5 gal system, but given the performance with 5 gal, it could easily do 10, maybe 20. But, I've only got 1 brew done with the electric kettle so far.

The RIMS on 120 was hard pressed to do a mash out, and on 240 nearly flashes the wort to steam. I may need to add a second variable control for this. It did however bring the water to strike temp in record time, compared to propane.
I also use the RIMS for a bottle washing station but did not have my 240 circuit installed then, and the best I could do on 120v was about 135F. I expect the 240 RIMS will get me to 160 in no time.
 
jleiii said:
My custom panel uses 120/240. I have a pair of contactors and a selector switch on my RIMS element for 'high' and 'low' operation. Low is 120, high is 240, 1375/4500. A simple flip of the switch to select. The boil kettle is strictly 240. This is a 5 gal system, but given the performance with 5 gal, it could easily do 10, maybe 20. But, I've only got 1 brew done with the electric kettle so far.

The RIMS on 120 was hard pressed to do a mash out, and on 240 nearly flashes the wort to steam. I may need to add a second variable control for this. It did however bring the water to strike temp in record time, compared to propane.
I also use the RIMS for a bottle washing station but did not have my 240 circuit installed then, and the best I could do on 120v was about 135F. I expect the 240 RIMS will get me to 160 in no time.
Click to expand...

I do think 4500w on 240v is way to much for a RIMS regardless of flow rate over the element. At least for my untested RIMS. Its a 1.5" TC tube but the ports are reduced to 1/2" to accommodate my QD's. I do have some 1.5" TC x 3/4" fittings I could switch out to if my flow rate gets bottled up at the fittings.

I really like your hi/low switch. That's a good idea especially when you can run strike water through the RIMS to help out the element in the HLT for faster heating times.

For cleaning I have a keg washer running a 240v 5500w element on 120v hooked to a Love controller that uses a 25 amp SSR. Im only heating about 7g of PBW or caustic to 160* in about 20 minutes starting with a room temp solution. But that's for another thread.
 
Blktre said:
I do think 4500w on 240v is way to much for a RIMS regardless of flow rate over the element. At least for my untested RIMS. Its a 1.5" TC tube but the ports are reduced to 1/2" to accommodate my QD's. I do have some 1.5" TC x 3/4" fittings I could switch out to if my flow rate gets bottled up at the fittings.
Click to expand...

4500 is only for strike water heating, or mash out if throttled back by a control. I dont have an HLT. I was using my brew kettle to heat strike water. The 4500 will heat strike water at full flow, no problem. It gives about 40f rise to start, then the pid cuts it back as it gets close.
 

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