100% Stainless Heating Element

[jpalarchio]

I know not everyone has problems with rust but the base of the element in my RIMS tube rusted and I've been searching for a solution.

Found a "100% stainless" element at this site: http://www.southernboystills.com/

$30 + $12 shipping (I bought mine off eBay for a little less using a "best offer")

I emailed them and they claim the base is stainless and the element is 11.5" in length. It's only 5,200W but close enough and plenty for a RIMS tube.

The only other one I had found was the Brewmation one which was pretty pricey and too long.

I ordered a couple, thought I'd share in case someone else is looking for the same. I'll try and post some details and pics once they arrive.

NOTE:

"Please read the full thread before ordering. The wattage of this element may not be as originally described and the vendor is looking into it."

 

[TallDan]

So, is that a standard NPT thread on that instead of the typical non-NPT thread on most elements?

 

[jpalarchio]

So, is that a standard NPT thread on that instead of the typical non-NPT thread on most elements?

I asked him if it was the water heater thread and he said yes. I already received a shipping notification so I should have it in a couple days and will report back.

 

[iraethan]

That looks amazing! How did it turn out?

 

[jpalarchio]

The element looks pretty good.

It has threads on both faces of the base and comes with a silicone gasket which it looks like you need to use. The connections are a bit different in that they're bolts with nuts and a bit smaller in size but I don't know that it matters.

I put it in my RIMS tube and poured a small amount of water in there to see if it rusts. So far, it looks good.

Pictures below:

New and old...

 

[iraethan]

Does the yellow housing in the picture screw onto the back?

 

[dmosinee]

Wow, it seems like this thing has potential to be the new element of choice for e-kettles. The all stainless construction alone drew me in as an alternative to the classic Camco ripple, but the base is interesting in its own right.

When you mention a silicone gasket, is that the yellow thing in the seller pictures that covers up the connections, or a different gasket piece no pictured anywhere?

the big exposed base on the back side looks like it would be much easier to drill and tap a hole in for a grounding lug than a normal element; which along with that yellow cover (if it is suitable) would make this an excellent and inexpensive alternative to a Camco ripple with a Brewhardware (or similar) enclosure/grounding setup.

 

[jpalarchio]

Does the yellow housing in the picture screw onto the back?

It does but I think that's just a cap to protect the screws during shipping.


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[jpalarchio]

When you mention a silicone gasket, is that the yellow thing in the seller pictures that covers up the connections, or a different gasket piece no pictured anywhere?

No, I didn't have the gasket in the pics. It just looks like a thick clear o-ring. At first I assumed I wouldn't need it but without it, it seems like liquid slowly gets through on the threads. With the gasket, not a single drop leaks through.

FYI- I'm using the Brewers Hardware element adapter.



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[WPStrassburg]

looks like the element base thread is npt based on the slight taper which should make it easier for some with just a coupling welded/soldered to their kettle to mount these.

 

[Poobah58]

Any idea of the watt density?

 

[jpalarchio]

Any idea of the watt density?

I think it's about 11.5" and 5200 watts. Does that help?

 

[iraethan]

Where would you attach the ground wire?

 

[thefost]

Any idea of the watt density?

Ok lets see, if we assume the rods are .25", then the total area would be around .25*3.14 * 11.5" * 4 bars = 36.11 in^2 . So for 5200 watts/36.11 = 144 watts/in^2

It looks like 50w/in^2 = ulwd, 73 = lwd, and 150=hwd, so this is basically a high watt density element at 220V.

I think this thing would be absolutely perfect for a 120V heat stick though. It would only be 1300W at 120V, which would be 36w/in^2, so it would be ultra low watt density. Also with the npt thread on the back you could easily use some stainless fittings and make an all stainless heatstick, and grounding could be soldered to the base. If I needed a heat stick I would be making one using this element immediately.

If I didn't recently buy a stainless element with a brass base for my rims tube, I would be buying one for that purpose too.

 

[jpalarchio]

Where would you attach the ground wire?

Same as my current element. The ground is attached to the element adapter that it's threaded into.

 

[acidrain]

You sir have found the holy grail in homebrew/home distilling. Congratulation! You are a freak'n hero!

 

[dcbw]

Is 11.2" the actual length from the "bolt"/threads to the end of the element?

 

[jpalarchio]

Is 11.2" the actual length from the "bolt"/threads to the end of the element?

From the front face of the element to the bend is 10.75".

The 11.5" appears to be if you were using the rear threads.

 

[jpalarchio]

From the front face of the element to the bend is 10.75".

The 11.5" appears to be if you were using the rear threads.

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[brew_ny]

looks good

 

[KevinP]

Thanks for posting this!

 

[Southernboystills]

Thanks everybody so much for all the support and feedback! We're definitely buzzin' off all of this positive energy! We appreciate it so much that we'd like to offer our HomeBrewTalk family a 10% discount on our website. Use code: homebrewtalk during checkout and save 10% on your next purchase. This offer is good through the end of September. And just to peak your interest further check out the link below for details about our control box that works wonders with our heating element. Thanks again for all the support!

http://www.southernboystills.com/#!...ully-electric-control-box-for-heating-element

 

[GotPushrods]

Is this actually a 240 volt element? I know some people use 220 and 240 interchangeably, but it makes a pretty big wattage difference here. Is this element actually > 6k watts for most people?

What is the resistance of the element? This would solve the problem very quickly. 8 ohms? 10 ohms? 12?

Thanks!

 

[jpalarchio]

Is this actually a 240 volt element? I know some people use 220 and 240 interchangeably, but it makes a pretty big wattage difference here. Is this element actually > 6k watts for most people?

What is the resistance of the element? This would solve the problem very quickly. 8 ohms? 10 ohms? 12?

Hmm... I hadn't even thought to measure the resistance and it'll be a while before I have it in use.

I measured them both and they each came out around 20 ohms. As a comparison, my 5500w/240v element came out at 11 ohms.

If I understand the math, that would make it closer to a 2500w element as opposed to 5200w.

Am I calculating that correctly?

--

I see the website was updated with more details now and it says 5500W/240V. Shouldn't I see about 10-11 ohms then?

 

[GotPushrods]

Hmm... I hadn't even thought to measure the resistance and it'll be a while before I have it in use.

I measured them both and they each came out around 20 ohms. As a comparison, my 5500w/240v element came out at 11 ohms.

If I understand the math, that would make it closer to a 2500w element as opposed to 5200w.

Am I calculating that correctly?

--

I see the website was updated with more details now and it says 5500W/240V. Shouldn't I see about 10-11 ohms then?

Yes, you should.

240^2 / 5500 = 10.47 ohms (expected if 240v)
or
220^2 / 5500 = 8.8 ohms (expected if 220v)

I just looked at the website, and it says 220 volt (not 240) 5500 watts.

At 20 ohms:
220v = 2420 watt
240v = 2880 watt

I would suspect the meter somehow, but you said your other element gave the expected result of 11 ohms.

If this is in fact a mid 2k watt element, it would make the watt density more attractive at least.


NOTE TO SELLER: If you can get these manufactured in 5500 watt, ULTRA low watt density ripple style, you will sell a lot. A LOT.

 

[orangehero]

They already are being manufactured:

http://brewmation.com/Heating_Elements.html

As I understand the ripple design is patented by APCOM.

http://www.apcom-inc.com/products/heating-elements

The brewmation elements are a bit more expensive, but I figure it's a one time purchase as these elements should last forever in the homebrew settting if properly taken care of.

These are an attractive option for use in a RIMS tube.

 

[jpalarchio]

I just looked at the website, and it says 220 volt (not 240) 5500 watts.

You're right. I even took a screenshot and still read it wrong...

I would suspect the meter somehow, but you said your other element gave the expected result of 11 ohms.

If this is in fact a mid 2k watt element, it would make the watt density more attractive at least.

I'm actually hoping it's the meter but it's spot on for the other element. I just checked a 4.7K ohm resistor I had laying on my desk and it's exact on that one as well.

I was looking to run this element at 120v in my RIMS, which would drop it down to a measly 600W.

I'll try and contact the seller for clarification.

 

[GotPushrods]

I'll try and contact the seller for clarification.

Awesome, let us know.

 

[Badgerhops]

Big fan of brewmation elements!
Much better than camco.... Rust in HLT after only 3 brews.


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[jpalarchio]

Big fan of brewmation elements!

Yeah, I checked those out. They wouldn't work for me as I was looking for one my RIMS tube and the straight element was something like 22" long. Price seemed a bit high too but I suppose what's an extra $30 in your entire build costs.

 

[jleiii]

Has anyone seen a 4500 watt 240v stainless element? I've been watching lots of posts, and searching online, but the closest I've found is stainless rod and brass base on ebay.

 

[jpalarchio]

Just an update on this...

The vendor said they're checking with their supplier on why the element resistance doesn't seem consistent with what you'd expect for a 5500w/220v element.

 

[KevinP]

I have 20 ohms as well. I can even confirm 20 ohms at 60Hz.
This element took almost twice as long to bring my system up to temp and to perform subsequent steps as my rusted Camco. I wish I didn't throw away that Camco. This really sucks...

 

[Beek]

So are the brewmation ones ULWD? I didn't see on their site? Of course I could've missed it as usual. 60 bucks seems pricey but if they last the life of the brewery, I guess it's worth it. I just can't tell SWMBO.

 

[BSD_Glass]

I have the brewmation ripples in my rig and they are certainly ulwd elements. I dunno about the straight ones.

Cheers.

BSD

 

[cuse88]

Any word from the vendor yet on the wattage of the elements?

 

[GotPushrods]

Any word from the vendor yet on the wattage of the elements?

We know it is 20 ohm, which will tell us the wattage at any voltage we give it. Just don't know why, or if/when there will be a replacement.

@110v = 605 watts
@120v = 720 watts
@220v = 2420 watts
@240v = 2880 watts

 

[thefost]

Bad news. Just talked to them and got an update on this. They said that their elements are actually 2500W and they are about to update the website to reflect this. They said they are kinda bummed and are looking for another manufacturer to get a 5500W model made, but it's not gonna happen any time soon.

So I guess that means if you want an all stainless element, your only options are the pricier ones from brewmation.
I'm curently using an ebay stainless 4000W element with a brass base, which works pretty well and doesn't rust, but I would have liked the 5500W one =/

 

[orangehero]

A smear of silicone caulk on the screw plug works just fine too.

 

[acidrain]

A smear of silicone caulk on the screw plug works just fine too.

No it doesn't.
Neither does adding a zinc anode.
You just can't beat the all stainless elements, but the brass base ones work well too (it's what I use after constant rust issues).