100% Stainless Heating Element

Williams 728
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Beek said:
I emailed BrewHa earlier today, probably the reason he posted on here. Afterwards he emailed me back and to thank me for my "tip" he offered to send me a free bottle opener. Sooo... They have the means to send me a bottle opener for free, with free shipping, for complaining about their price and telling them that they are losing business, but they don't have the means to lower shipping on an element that weighs, what, a pound or two max? Put it in one of those if it fits, it ships boxes from USPS. It'd cost five bucks. Charge me ten. Better than 30.
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I'm not trying to justify the sellers position, but potential buyers clearly don't understand large/medium business shipping reality. That bottle opener may well fit in an envelope and go out with the days mail, after running though a postage machine. Can't do that with a heating element.

As a mfg small business owner, I can appreciate the sellers position on alternate shipping methods. While shipping with any company may be 'easy' to do, packaging materials, proper shipping label stock, and configured options in their software may make it impossible, or at least very inconvenient.
If we were to get a request to ship with Airborne, for example, our answer is NO. While we could do it, it would add a significant amount of time and effort, easily exceeding the actual shipping cost, and eat up profit.
We use builtin shipping options with Quickbooks for all our shipping. This limits us to UPS, Fedex and USPS. All 3 require us to have accounts, and with USPS the account must be pre-funded. Before QB integrated with these services shipment processing took about 5 times longer than it does now, for every shipment. For freight shipments we need yet more accounts, FedEx Freight, TNT, etc. Not to mention international shipments.
On a $20 item we manufacture (consumer item, vs large commercial sales) the margins are very slim to start with, otherwise we would not have any buyers. Do this for 30 years and you'd understand a lot better!

Clearly $30 is an outrageous amount, but that might be what it takes to manage non-standard shipping methods. For those that don't know, the commercial shipping options these shippers offer can be very different from those used by small businesses, or individuals. Minimums, volume discounts, on-demand pickups (extra $), etc. UPS charges us to show up at our door every day, with the amount varying on our shipping volume, but that pickup fee never goes to 0. If you don't have daily pickups, on-demand pickup has an extra charge. Dropping off shipments is even more 'costly'.

Hope this helps people realize they may well not be out to rip you off.
 
what about the fact that none of these stainless elements are ultra low watt density? wont scorching and element mineral buildup be more of an issue here?
 
KevinP said:
Fire
Click to expand...

I had a feeling you would say that...

Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...


So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?

cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.
 
augiedoggy said:
I had a feeling you would say that...

Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...


So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?

cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.
Click to expand...

Fwiw, my bk element is a camco and I have no problems with it at all. It gets the hop crud cleaned after brewing and then stored dry.
 
augiedoggy said:
I had a feeling you would say that...

Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...


So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?

cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.
Click to expand...

But an electric boil would eliminate the fun of playing with FIRE :rockin:

Do people have consistency issues with fire?

I didn't think lwd was necessary for the boil. RIMS and direct mash heating sure but for boil? I haven't looked into it much so I digress and will continue playing with FIRE :rockin:
 
sandyeggoxj said:
Fwiw, my bk element is a camco and I have no problems with it at all. It gets the hop crud cleaned after brewing and then stored dry.
Click to expand...

Yes but arent the camco elements ultra low watt density? is your element silver or dark gray? the dark gray ones are ulwd and are much less likely to scortch the wort. The regular element surface is hotter than the ulwd making it easy to burn if the wort isnt constantly moving over the surface.
I will never go back to fire again if I can help it... I can control the boil perfectly with my electric setup as well as the rate of evaporation.. plus I brew in my house in a spare bedroom.... Not a smart Idea with an outdoor propane burner.. temps make a huge difference in the beer... if the boil is too vigouruos you get too much evap not vigorous enough and not enough hop utilization.
 
augiedoggy said:
Yes but arent the camco elements ultra low watt density? is your element silver or dark gray? the dark gray ones are ulwd and are much less likely to scortch the wort. The regular element surface is hotter than the ulwd making it easy to burn if the wort isnt constantly moving over the surface.
I will never go back to fire again if I can help it... I can control the boil perfectly with my electric setup as well as the rate of evaporation.. plus I brew in my house in a spare bedroom.... Not a smart Idea with an outdoor propane burner.. temps make a huge difference in the beer... if the boil is too vigouruos you get too much evap not vigorous enough and not enough hop utilization.
Click to expand...

The 'dark gray' I believe you are referring to is not indicative of watt density but is caused by annealing of the incoloy stainless, to make it pliable for bending. Camco uses a 'full anneal' process which send the entire element through an oven with an atmosphere. This anneals the entire assembly instead of just the bending area (like with BREWHA elements). The annealing creates an oxidized layer of something similar to chromium oxide or nickel oxide (although I am told the makeup of this layer is different than the spot anneal which is done in regular air). It also makes the surface slightly less smooth so that it is slightly harder to clean. For applications where cleaning the element between uses is desirable, this layer is not helpful and is better if minimized. The perfectly shiny elements are often coated after bending.

Watt density is determined by the total output, relative to the surface area of the heating sheath (length of the heating element*diameter*3.14). Take the total output of the heating element (at a given voltage) and divide it by its surface area. BREWHA elements are designed to be as low as, or lower watt density than the ULWD Camco elements.
 
BREWHAEquipmentCo said:
The 'dark gray' I believe you are referring to is not indicative of watt density but is caused by annealing of the incoloy stainless, to make it pliable for bending. Camco uses a 'full anneal' process which send the entire element through an oven with an atmosphere. This anneals the entire assembly instead of just the bending area (like with BREWHA elements). The annealing creates an oxidized layer of something similar to chromium oxide or nickel oxide (although I am told the makeup of this layer is different than the spot anneal which is done in regular air). It also makes the surface slightly less smooth so that it is slightly harder to clean. For applications where cleaning the element between uses is desirable, this layer is not helpful and is better if minimized. The perfectly shiny elements are often coated after bending.

Watt density is determined by the total output, relative to the surface area of the heating sheath (length of the heating element*diameter*3.14). Take the total output of the heating element (at a given voltage) and divide it by its surface area. BREWHA elements are designed to be as low as, or lower watt density than the ULWD Camco elements.
Click to expand...
I stand corrected...with that said all the "dark gray" ones Ive seem to come across have been advertised as low watt or ultra low watt and I have yet to see a shiny silver ultra low watt density one so I made an incorrect assumption....I was also under the assuption the dull dark surface resisted mineral buildup better than the other surfaces and this was related.
my units are the long ripple elements and while my boil kettle element doesnt seem to rust at the base my HLT does..
Does this change the Other point I was making about the shorter non ultra low watt density ones being hotter at the surface where they contact the wort?
 
augiedoggy said:
I stand corrected...with that said all the "dark gray" ones Ive seem to come across have been advertised as low watt or ultra low watt and I have yet to see a shiny silver ultra low watt density one so I made an incorrect assumption....I was also under the assuption the dull dark surface resisted mineral buildup better than the other surfaces and this was related.
my units are the long ripple elements and while my boil kettle element doesnt seem to rust at the base my HLT does..
Does this change the Other point I was making about the shorter non ultra low watt density ones being hotter at the surface where they contact the wort?
Click to expand...

Yes, a shorter element with a given diameter and wattage will be hotter at the surface than a longer element with the same diameter and wattage as the heat generated will be dissipated through a smaller surface area and be more intense.
 
augiedoggy said:
I had a feeling you would say that...



Well that defeats the purpose for many using electric systems.... One of the key reasons for going electric in my case was to eliminate the restrictions of a gas flame system and for consistent results...





So the question remains for those with a complete electric brew system, Is there a 220v ulwd element that will not rust to use for the boil kettle?



cleaning the base of the element works between brews but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.
Click to expand...


Just the brewmation one as far as I know. Otherwise coat the base of the camco with high temp NSF silicone as many have done without ever getting rust.
 
Bensiff said:
Just the brewmation one as far as I know. Otherwise coat the base of the camco with high temp NSF silicone as many have done without ever getting rust.
Click to expand...

thanks I have read about the silicone and may go that route. a touch of olive oil seemed to stop it in my brew pot but did not work for my hlt where the rust had already started before application so who knows... it may work if I replace the element.
 
I received the Heet-o-matic 1500W element. It is in fact all stainless. The element will fit through a 1" FNPT x 2" Triclamp from Mile Hi Distilling. I had one from Brewers Hardware but it would not fit through. The element seems to be of good quality. When I get everything welded up I'll post another review.

element_zpsb5a8c388.jpg
 
I don't think Brewha is a company I will ever be doing business with.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Poobah58 said:
Turns out the "order 3 elements and get free shipping" is BS! Went thru the process and when you select shipping you get charged $30! WTF???
Click to expand...

Well isnt that just the shipping they charge for 1? I understood it to be free shipping for each additional element...

I'm telling you the one I linked above are a damn good deal they are only 4500w and the base is brass but its only $13 plus $5 shipping.... the brewha ones are not ultra low watt density either so U'm not sure how they will work for the boil kettle without imparting a burnt flavor (scortching the wort)
 
Just heard from Brewha. If you select "free pickup from Vancouver" there will be no charge (and it will get shipped)...

EDIT: The site is fixed. Free shipping is now a drop down item. Just ordered mine!!!
 
It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.
 
Bobby_M said:
It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.
Click to expand...

I will help! As long as they are ulwd and 5500 watts. Well at least 5500 watts.
 
Bobby_M said:
It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.
Click to expand...


Excellent!
 
Nice, I know a few guys who might be interested including myself. I'll make sure to spread the word in thanks for your willingness to roll the dice in $10k. Any word on specs and price?
 
Bobby_M said:
It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.
Click to expand...

I'm in for at least 4. Is there any way to get an alert when they become available?
 
Bobby_M said:
It looks like I'm about 3 weeks away from having some all stainless elements. It was only a matter of time before a few more vendors got with the program to keep the prices reasonable. I just bet $10,000 that you guys will help me get rid of them.
Click to expand...

Any info at this point on cost, etc.?
 

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