I'm Thinking... 09/09/09 Barleywine

Hey guys sorry to butt in on the thread I've been a long time reader of this forum and I just upgraded my membership so I can be a part of 9-9-9. Here's my question, my AG setup right now is the 10gal cooler system from B3, I can't do a 26lb+ mash.......would I be alright if I split the grain and strike water in half and just did two mini (using the term lightly) mashes? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Why not just do a 3 Gal batch?

Displaced MassHole said:

Hey guys sorry to butt in on the thread I've been a long time reader of this forum and I just upgraded my membership so I can be a part of 9-9-9. Here's my question, my AG setup right now is the 10gal cooler system from B3, I can't do a 26lb+ mash.......would I be alright if I split the grain and strike water in half and just did two mini (using the term lightly) mashes? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

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I think that if you don't mind doing a long boil this would work just fine.
Mash 1/2 and then the other 1/2 and boil it down. This may actually be the best way to hit the numbers for those of ou who can not mash that much.

MikeFlynn74 said:

Why not just do a 3 Gal batch?

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That's what I'm doing. I figure a 5.5 gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy is going to blow off the better part of a gallon anyway...

Here's the link to the scaled down recipe.

BierMuncher said:

That's what I'm doing. I figure a 5.5 gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy is going to blow off the better part of a gallon anyway...

Here's the link to the scaled down recipe.

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Why not split it into two carboys and then after a month or two rack both into one?

I had planned to do a 5 (or 5.5) gallon batch using my 10 gallon cooler MLT. Is that not advisable? My only reference for being able to do so is:

FlyGuy said:

It all has to do with the gravity of the brew and how much grain is required. The 10 gallon cooler will hold about 25 lbs of grains comfortably in a typical mash. You can get it up to about 28 lbs if you mash at a 1 qt/lb ratio of water to grain.

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I mashed about 17 lbs of grain for my last brew, and it certainly seemed like it could hold a good bit more grain/water.

jmulligan said:

I had planned to do a 5 (or 5.5) gallon batch using my 10 gallon cooler MLT. Is that not advisable? My only reference for being able to do so is:



I mashed about 17 lbs of grain for my last brew, and it certainly seemed like it could hold a good bit more grain/water.

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At the 26.375 pounds of grain the max mash water you can "fit" into a 10 gal is a rate of 1.195 qt/lb
Drop down to a 1.00 or a 1.1 qt/lb and you should be able to do it.

FSR402 said:

At the 26.375 pounds of grain the max mash water you can "fit" into a 10 gal is a rate of 1.195 qt/lb
Drop down to a 1.00 or a 1.1 qt/lb and you should be able to do it.

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Awesome! Thanks for the reassurance!

FSR402 said:

At the 26.375 pounds of grain the max mash water you can "fit" into a 10 gal is a rate of 1.195 qt/lb
Drop down to a 1.00 or a 1.1 qt/lb and you should be able to do it.

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Any suggestions for the mashout? I know that it would be easier just to make a smaller batch, but the more beer I can make the better.

I was just doing some calculating on that this morning. If you do batch sparging, you'll need about 6.625 more gallons of space (and doing it twice) in the MLT for the sparge water. I think it's better to try and set up some fly sparge setup for this if you have a cooler tun.

EvilTOJ said:

I was just doing some calculating on that this morning. If you do batch sparging, you'll need about 6.625 more gallons of space (and doing it twice) in the MLT for the sparge water. I think it's better to try and set up some fly sparge setup for this if you have a cooler tun.

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No you just have to do more sparges.
However even at only 1.1qt/# dilution you will drain nearly 4 gal of wort for each draining. Doing a standard 3 draining batch sparge will fill up your keggle and require a long boil to get to your OG.

I intend to only mash about half the grain and replace the rest with DME. I know it not a true AG and the DME will be expensive but it does keep my brew process simple and does not require a larger MLT and kettle.

Craig

I'm pretty sure I'm going to mash two seperate batches. I have my old PVC manifold still, and I have a spare ball valve... I'm just going to invest the extra $4 in hardware, and set up a 2nd mash tun with my spare ice chest. Mash a 3 gal batch in each of them, and then combine both into the brew kettle. Then I'll ferment my 6 gals in a bucket with Fermcap to prevent too much blowoff.

Edit: OR I might take this opportunity to buy a bigger cooler. I've always wanted an 80qt+ mash tun. That Igloo 100 is kinda sexy.

chriso said:

I'm pretty sure I'm going to mash two seperate batches. I have my old PVC manifold still, and I have a spare ball valve... I'm just going to invest the extra $4 in hardware, and set up a 2nd mash tun with my spare ice chest. Mash a 3 gal batch in each of them, and then combine both into the brew kettle. Then I'll ferment my 6 gals in a bucket with Fermcap to prevent too much blowoff.

Edit: OR I might take this opportunity to buy a bigger cooler. I've always wanted an 80qt+ mash tun. That Igloo 100 is kinda sexy.

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I LOVE my 80qt MLT... I will most likely batch sparge on this brew and deal with the long boil. I can fire up the HLT as a kettle to boil some off too.

Displaced MassHole said:

Any suggestions for the mashout? I know that it would be easier just to make a smaller batch, but the more beer I can make the better.

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Unless you have a 15 gal or larger MLT you will not be bale to do a normal add boiling water mashout. You "could" run off some and decoction to get the temp up.
But what would work just as well is to use 180-185* water for the sparge.

BierMuncher said:

That's what I'm doing. I figure a 5.5 gallon batch in a 6.5 gallon carboy is going to blow off the better part of a gallon anyway...

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I ordered some foam control drops to use on this recipe, I don't want to loose any of this brew

Has anyone come up with a parti-gyle version of this? I would imagine it would be a larger amount of grain since you are only getting the first runnings for the barleywine. After further review I'm thinking of doing a true parti-gyle, making 3 different batches. The barlyewine and the regular beer would be batches for myself, then use the kinderbeer to make something my wife would like (maybe just show it a picture of some hops, or boil it near my hop plants).

OK, OK, I'll brew a 15 gal batch and sock it ways (minus the swap bottles of course). PMale me info, I'm down.

what will the extract version/recipe look like (pastuer???)

Got the ingredients for this on Saturday (Minus the 2-row, need another bag from LHBS) Really looking forward to brewing this.

I'm still debating on using the first and second runnings (Mash and first batch sparge) for the BarleyWine and making a small beer with the 3rd runnings.

conpewter said:

I'm still debating on using the first and second runnings (Mash and first batch sparge) for the BarleyWine and making a small beer with the 3rd runnings.

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I keep noodling on that, too. I think it will be a game-time decision, though, based upon what I get out of those runnings. I hope to pull off a partigyle, though. I have a ****load of barleywine around the house right now, as it is.

(not that there's anything wrong with that)


TL

TexLaw said:

I keep noodling on that, too. I think it will be a game-time decision, though, based upon what I get out of those runnings. I hope to pull off a partigyle, though. I have a ****load of barleywine around the house right now, as it is.

(not that there's anything wrong with that)


TL

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I plan on using the third runnings for an N/A beer.

Yep.

It'll be a good Driver's beer for an October party.

I'm outta the loop. When are we brewing this one?

TexLaw said:

04-24-2008, 03:35 PM

I like barleywine, and you know what? I've never brewed one, which I can hardly believe, myself. This sounds like a good reason to get started.

TL

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TexLaw said:

06-23-2008

I have a ****load of barleywine around the house right now, as it is.

(not that there's anything wrong with that)

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Soo... guess you've been brewing a bit in the last two months eh?

I may be brewing this earlier than the 9/9/08 (stated in the first post) It is a big big beer though, so this thing could age for 10 years and be fine IMHO

Nah, all the barleywine in my house is commercial right now. A bunch of Bigfoot and Saint Arnold Divine Reserve 6, along with a growler of Two Rows barleywine. I'm slowly working my way through the first two, and it's about time I dove into the growler. I love me some barleywine, but I don't just guzzle it . . . often.

I'm definitely brewing it earlier than 9/9/08. In fact, I'll probably brew it in about a month, as I expect to have a good yeast cake for it.


TL

Ah, I've thought about buying some commercial examples of different styles, I just end up saving the money and buying beer ingredients instead, oh well. I do love going to the local microbreweries though.

I had forgotten about the 5 gallon starter for these things I'll have to plan that in. Luckily the next few brews I have planned are lighter colored ales so I could do half with the original yeast, and half with the cal ale to use the yeast cake off of. (10 gallon batches, so two 6 gal carboys work well)

Evan! said:

I'm outta the loop. When are we brewing this one?

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I was getting ready to post up the updated list today.

The time is getting close. (well...not really, but I like the sense of urgency.

If you're not on the list, it's because you have not PM'd me or you are not a paid subscriber.

If you want off the list...let me know as well:

9/9
98EXL
Air Pirate
Alamo_Beer
BakerStreetBeers
Beerrific
blacklab
Brewpastor
Brewsmith
BuffaloSabresBrewer
CBBaron
chadley
chriso
conpewter
Couevas
DeathBrewer
deathweed
Displaced MassHole
EdWort
Evan!
EvilTOJ
FSR402
Hagen
HarvInSTL
jds
jmulligan
justbrewit
Kilted Brewer
landhoney
Liquidicem
MikeFlynn74
Mutilated1
niquejim
olllllo
Ooompa Loompa
Pirate Ale
RICLARK
TexLaw
the_bird
uglygoat
Warrior
wildwest450


Remember that I am going to really scrub this list before brew date and about 6 months post brew. That should minimize the "no shows" when it comes time to swap.

I'm thinking brewing on (or around) Memorial [EDIT] Meant labor day... weekend.
Finalize swap names after the first of the year.
Deliver beers sometime in March/April (before the weather warms)
Recipients then stash the beers until we toast on 9-9-9 (happens to be a Wednesday).

This should give brewers time to bulk age/condition their beers and make sure we're not shipping our hard work across the country in 140 degree UPS trucks.

[EDIT] Once it's time to assign names, any member who has been MIA from HBT for more than 30 days is going to be dropped from the swap...and assumed to be a casualty of sobriety.

Dude, you have a time machine?
Memorial Day?

BierMuncher said:

I'm thinking brewing on (or around) Memorial day weekend.
Finalize swap names after the first of the year.
Deliver beers sometime in March/April (before the weather warms)
Recipients then stash the beers until we toast on 9-9-9 (happens to be a Wednesday).

This should give brewers time to bulk age/condition their beers and make sure we're not shipping our hard work across the country in 140 degree UPS trucks.

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I think you meant Labor Day as Memorial Day is already past. That means I need to plan for a lighter beer a few weeks before that to have a good yeast cake built up. Maybe another Scottish Ale, the current one is really growing on me.

Thanks for taking all the time to organize this one.

Craig

olllllo said:

Dude, you have a time machine?
Memorial Day?

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...................

I'm in. PM sent.

Thanks for organizing, BierMuncher.

It is about time we started talking about the 9/9/9 again. It has been a month since anybody popped in.

I think I am gonna brew an IPA here in the next couple weeks and then build the 9 off that yeast cake.

Anyone object to Nottingham dry? (brewing a tribute to Stone Ruination)

two thoughts on yeast

You are going to want really strong and happy yeast, and while an IPA will work as a started, it is a bit hoppy and strong, therefore the yeast get stressed. Pale ale would be better, but this is probably one of those beer geek - the rest of the world does really care about deals.

Nottingham works fine, but I plan on using Cal Ale liquid. Again, the variation is not going to amount to a hill of beans, but that is what I plan to do.

Thanks for kicking this thread in the butt.

Brewpastor said:

two thoughts on yeast

You are going to want really strong and happy yeast, and while an IPA will work as a started, it is a bit hoppy and strong, therefore the yeast get stressed. Pale ale would be better, but this is probably one of those beer geek - the rest of the world does really care about deals.

Nottingham works fine, but I plan on using Cal Ale liquid. Again, the variation is not going to amount to a hill of beans, but that is what I plan to do.

Thanks for kicking this thread in the butt.

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Good point on the stress factor. I should probably stick with a nice neutral pale and ensure good health.

The reason I continue to try to use dry yeast is my geography. I am in Vegas and there are no HBS in the entire valley. The nearest is literally hundreds of miles away. I have had bad experiences with shipping liquid yeast and don't want to pay for overnight.

I can't believe I am going to put this in print, but here goes...

Dry yeast works fine. (there, I said it!)

Actually on a beer like this it is a very logical way to go. Nottingham should give it a nice profile as well. It is also so easy to use.

Brewpastor said:

I can't believe I am going to put this in print, but here goes...

Dry yeast works fine. (there, I said it!)

Actually on a beer like this it is a very logical way to go. Nottingham should give it a nice profile as well. It is also so easy to use.

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I've just witnessed the Reformation.

Brewpastor said:

...
Dry yeast works fine. (there, I said it!)...

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Quoted for posterity.

This might be my excuse to finally dedicate a better bottle to a year wait.. why not right?

I was going to use Notty but decided to spend the extra bucks and give Cal Ale yeast a try as I've heard a lot about it but never tried it. I'll probably attempt to stow it away in my yeast bank to use forever after (as long as the stupid freezer doesn't thaw again).

The propagator pack was fairly cheap (around $5) and came with an ice pack that I can reuse for other stuff, so overall not that much of an expense. I planned on making a starter for my pale ale anyway, so no big deal about being a propagator pack.

Stupid question incoming:

I you needed a higher alcohol tolerant yeast to make barley wine, you can use any yeast?

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