Yorkshire Square on a home level?

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As to what they're cloning - I've also listened to their Bombardier interview, where towards the end they talk a bit about whether the difference in the clone is down to staleness of the target, and they think probably not (ie it's a "clone failure") but they're not sure. I sense that they've had some cask beer but in general not the cask version of the beers they're cloning - and they explicitly try to match the US bottled versions rather than the original cask versions, which can be significantly different. They recognise that there is a difference - but try to clone the bottled version anyway.

I do get the impression that the average US homebrewer - present company obviously excepted - thinks that British beers are stronger than they really are, with a plethora of ESBs, and a flavour of muted hops, a whiff of cardboard, and a strong shot of priming sugar from underconditioning. Going to London tourist pubs will only reinforce that impression...

This is a really important point about bottle versus cask, even disregarding the issues around freshness. I would say that north of 90% of UK bottled beers do not taste like the cask version, to the extent that in a blind taste test with both versions I think that people would not be able to pick out the "pairs". A UK inhabitant might be able to but only because they are aware from drinking the bottled versions over the years what they are rather than them actually tasting like the cask versions; unfortunately the flavour profile and ABV can really be significantly different.
 
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It's a total of £15.90 to ship HH anywhere in the world.

An American guy on jims recently bought the Harvey's strain. He said it cost him a total of $21.39. $8 for the yeast and $13 for the shipping. I dont know if this works out the same as £15.90


I love English Bitter (probably because I live in London) and I've just came across this thread. I'm currently reading my way through it avidly. After I've finished doing that I'm going to look on youtube for some vid's on Yorkshire Squares/Rounds to see exactly how it all works

I'm not sure whether I'll ever bother trying out a 'square' but I might have a go at open fermentation in the future. I'm currently using the Gales strain for most things (might even put it in a stout next week to see what it's like), which I got out of a bottle of Gales HSB. It's got a nice soft frut flavour which I think would work well with open fermentation
 
I'll try to track some clips down, thanks, Hanglow. I wish I could harvest those yeasts, but everything we get here has to be dead. Have to do the only "business card harvest" method and bring it back.:D

The Brakspear strain was the first strain I cultured from a bottle of Triple. It stunk the apartment out with sulpher. Mrs MyQul was not impressed.
Sadly the triple is currently discontinued in bottles. I remember it being a tasty beer
 
The HH I acquired - this is Hardy and Hanson, the same as yours, or Black Sheep (I'm not clear if you're saying Black Sheep's originated with HH and has morphed due to a different practice, or is actually an entirely different provenance - sorry, I'm not well versed in this)?

What you and I have are the same. The Theakston family's brewing history can be found in other places and it may help you with this project to search for it.
Paul Theakston obtained yeast for his Black Sheep Brewery from Hardy and Hanson of Nottingham and it is currently used in old Yorkshire squares, but mostly in more modern circular versions made from stainless steel. I'm suggesting the yeast used to make a Black Sheep beer this week will have adapted to its newer surroundings to be different to that at the originating brewery and probably what has been supplied to us. My first fermentation of HH was not as expected but expect that might change in subsequent pitching.

You indicate, rouse until desired FG, in a word. How would you relate this to the BS practice, the fishtail rousing every 3 hours, through, let's use Northern's notion, 5-10 pts. above FG? Do you mean, using Black Sheep's technique, to rouse all the way through to FG? Or perhaps you mean your example, from your first paragraph. Basically, if I understand you, just bring the sleeping yeast back into work, monitoring attenuation, until you reach FG. There's no routine: "every 3 hours, 6 min. recirc...through to FG + 5-10 pts."

Madscientist451 questioning "beer clearing while fermentation is active" is so totally valid for an overwhelming majority of yeasts, but not all, here is where the Yorkshire yeast is different. I can't explain why, only wonder, like the chicken and the egg, as to which came first, the yeast or the square. I use Yorkshire type yeast manually and rouse it when I can. I don't replicate what Black Sheep do, nor is there a single strain of this type and each have slightly different characteristics, but this is what I do.
Within 12 hours of pitching a large krausen forms rising continously, thickening at its upper surface. If left alone activity would diminish significantly, parting the krausen reveals a dark and still surface. At this point I would skim any hop oils and other debris present and stir in the krausen as best I can. Within 3 hours it returns larger than before and try to get as much as possible back into the wort which starts quite dark and colors up during the process and so it continues except during the night and when not at home. The more frequent it is roused the greater the attenuation, so it possible to stop at any point, although it will eventually reach its terminal gravity. Normally I stop at about 70% apparent attenuation, skim the excess and let it cool for a couple of days before casking.

Your last paragraph is straightforward; all your post is workable, just wanting to clear up a couple of points. Having concluded I'll be needing to weld the frame myself, there will be some time here, particularly to get or build a suitable space where I feel comfortable running open ferments. This information is fantastic, though, and I'm very eager to incorporate the work in trying it all out.

Maybe I'm at odds here or trying to tell my grandmother how to suck eggs, but Britain is but a few smallish islands and our brewing techniques are probably more than just continents apart.

As said, bottled beers and casked beers are only rarely comparable in any way including color. Carbonation is different, the bottles version usually filtered and pasteurised and not unusually, even of different gravity.

At Black Sheep they mash, sparge boil, chill and pitch in one day as is usual. They ferment warm for 3 to 4 before skimming and cooling gently before the beer is removed from the yeast and placed in conditioning tanks. After about a week it is casked with isinglass, continuing to slowly ferment and further condition on its journey to and in the cellar of a pub. There it will spend up to a month until needed when it will be tapped one day and if ready served the next day at cellar temperature by a hand pump at the bar.

That will not have been filtered, pasteurised or artificailly gassed while the bottled version will likely be sent in bulk to a bottling company where it will go through all the above and more and straight into distribution. Some beers are bottled at the brewery to be bottle conditioned. They are in the minority today and when this was normal practice, Yorkshire yeasts were know to be poor for bottle conditioning, particularly compared to those of Burton.
 
The real issue for me is finding a way to make our garage work - some kind of fermentation chamber - or having to grab my son to help haul the heavy vessel with 12ish gallons in it

Sounds like if he's not around then you either have a shorter brewlength - or cool it, then pitch and transfer to smaller vessels to move it and count the transfer as your first rouse?

if keeping the beer in the aerobic growth phase was the consideration, all they'd have to do is goose it with pure O2 in a sustained flow.

I loathe the Ringwood strain and have never produced anything I'd call palatable with it (or what is presented as Ringwood when I buy it).

Don't forget these practices date back to before you could just ring up and order pure O2, and now they're Traditional (and not followed by more "progressive" breweries...)

AIUI Wyeast 1187/WLP005 is just the high-floccing half of the Ringwood yeast, so in its defence you could be seeing only part of the story, it was presumably selected for ease of dropping more than taste. I'm out of area for the brewery so I've not had much of their beer, but I've been rather underwhelmed by what I have had in cask, and though they're common enough in supermarkets I always seem to find something more interesting instead... I've seen it suggested by random-people-on-the-internet that a) Conan is NCYC 1188 and thus b) it's the other half of Wyeast 1187. I've not seen anything solid to support those assertions, but Conan does feel like the high-attenuating half of a northern English double strain, so it's possible. Obviously there's the usual problem of NCYC secrecy - all we know is that NCYC 1188 is an ale strain deposited by a British brewery in 1960 - but I'd love to see some sequence data and family trees.

The brewery is cobbled together, the hot side was taken from Hartley's of Ulverston when it was closed by Robinson's, the fermenters from Thorne when it was closed by Vaux.

Per http://www.ibdlearningzone.org.uk/article/show/pdf/822/ and http://protzonbeer.co.uk/features/2...s-of-black-sheep-s-remarkable-brewing-success the first fermenters came from Hardy & Hanson's, they expanded with some from Darley's of Thorne - three of each AIUI, but it explains why they use Hardy's yeast, they got it as a "package". The Robbies connection continued, they bottled Black Sheep for a long time, not sure if that's still true.

@G you might enjoy both those articles, Protz has grist and hops for most of their beers, and mentions rousing every six hours. It's possible that Roger is getting his 3 hours and 6 minutes confused, practices have changed over time, or they rouse Riggwelter more often than the weaker beers. The 2007 IBD article is more interested in kit, but you get to the good stuff once you get past the details of their then new casking line. They stop rousing after 60-72 hours, when 3-4 points above racking gravity, which in turn will be a couple of points above FG. They go into nitty-gritty detail like EBC's and which hop farms they use, I hadn't realised that Fawcett's are a shareholder. I like the quote from Jonathan Virden, the Guinness brewer "There are two ways of selling beer – marketing and hops! Marketing is expensive, hops are cheap!" There's closeups of the squares on the final page.

The HH I acquired - this is Hardy and Hanson, the same as yours, or Black Sheep (I'm not clear if you're saying Black Sheep's originated with HH and has morphed due to a different practice, or is actually an entirely different provenance - sorry, I'm not well versed in this)?

I read it as the former - given that yeast is evolving through every generation, you have to be quite precise about the point at which it was stashed by NCYC/Brewlab etc. Evolution is most obvious in the Conan family where the sudden popularity of NEIPAs has led to it finding itself in a whole load of different breweries overnight, and people seem to be finding that "Conan" from different commercial suppliers differ significantly in the FV.

An American guy on jims recently bought the Harvey's strain. He said it cost him a total of $21.39. $8 for the yeast and $13 for the shipping. I dont know if this works out the same as £15.90

At current exchange rates £15.90 is US$21.42, so sounds about right. Harvey's is another northern strain that's found its way south, it came from John Smith's.

The Brakspear strain was the first strain I cultured from a bottle of Triple. It stunk the apartment out with sulpher. Mrs MyQul was not impressed.
Sadly the triple is currently discontinued in bottles. I remember it being a tasty beer

If you've got sulphur, you've probably got a conditioning yeast rather than the pitching yeast. Certainly other parts of the Marstons empire use conditioning yeast. The old Brakspear yeast originated at Mann - my guess is that it was the strain that Simpsons of Baldock bought from Mann in the 1930s and then distributed widely around the SE. But they lost it during all their corporate turmoil of the 90s/noughties, I assume the new one came from Marstons. So who knows what WLP023 and 1275 are - the fact that White Labs call the former "Burton Ale" rather suggests it came from Marstons.

[heh, the new multiquote system is quite cute once you get the hang of it!]
 
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Coming back slowly to this thread after a very late reply period Cire, Northern et al (for any who might be interested in this aged thread). I apologize for any rudeness in not replying and I hope, now that my brew frame is coming to completion, to be able to return your kindness and considered thoughts. I tend to think on one thing at a time, as limited or monomaniacal as that makes me, and here, it's been the frame and its concerns. You've given considerably and I want to honor that.

In wanting to truly give this kind of fermentation a whirl, a tri-clover setup and ss square, or round vessel, is in mind (although I'm thinking of just using one of my existing Spike vessels - near perfect in aspect ratio). Now, a recirc pump. It's a dumb question, I'm sure, but I can't see a standard centrifugal, non self-priming pump (e.g., another Chugger) to be appropriate at all. Any suggestions for a better solution in terms of a pump? This would be for the recirc through fermentation, and racking after.

Edit: Just to say, it is truly generous and a serious learning experience, gentlemen. PMs sent.
 
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Thanks Mary, I'll look into it. I don't actually know the term, but just to clarify, I'll need to be turning it on only every few hours, for 6 minutes or so, over the course of its primary fermentation. Does this still apply?

Is there such a thing as a small CIP setup that would be sanitary and work? And I might as well ask the dumb question that's been hanging with me from the start - but do they (e.g., Black Sheep) disassemble the pump and spreader plumbing assembly after every cycle, clean and and sanitize it before next cycle? Or wrap the open end up, or just leave it exposed entirely?
 
I really think a peristaltic pump is the way to go on this. Sanitary, and you can keep your FV a "closed" system too if you orient the hoses properly.

Thanks Kevin, hadn't even thought of that. I don't know I've ever used a peristaltic before (unless it was sometime, as a corpsman - a long time ago). Can you get a vigorous force with these? I'd like to pretty rigorously spray the krausen surface, when recirc'ing.

Interesting idea - thanks again.
 
They sell all kinds of peristaltic pumps of varying capacities; personally I would look for a pump by Cole Parmer (Masterflex) and shoot for one with a pump head that accepts at least 1/4" tubing. That should give you more than enough force for a vigorous spray on the krausen surface based on my experience with them.

That said, there are a variety of motors and pump heads produced-- so it probably comes down to what specs you think are desirable and finding a pump to match those specs.

:mug:
 
My fermentation chamber uses an A/C unit. So, I would be blowing nasty air over the top trying to keep it cool. Inside my house is like Grand Central Station with animals and people. I quickly dropped the idea all together.

Coming back and wrestling with this very thing right now. I'm OK using my space downstairs for now because the basement is about 55F, so I actually control by an inkbird and a small ceramic heater to raise to ferment temps. But this regime of bringing it down slowly to a 50F rest, can't do without, like you, using my a/c and coolbot and as I said in another thread right, might as well dust the open fermentor with a random mix of cultured yeasts and bacterias. So it seems an internal attemperator is the way to go, just don't have the engineering mind to come up with it.
 
...Hold at 50F an additional 5-7 days, then package....

Well, we're there. Strong bitter that this time, overshot the mark - intended 14.5P OG, got 16.5 OG. But we're getting closer, lol. I have a couple ideas why, including over-reducing, and the fact I remembered some better mashing methods, now. Not complaining - will take a 16.5P strong bitter anyday. Have to parse the WP and hopstand IBU contributions, so we'll see there. But I think it's going to come out really good.

Because I'm going to dry hop with some First Gold, I'm going to have to parse the Black Sheep protocol a bit. But I'd also like to clarify, McKnuckle, if you happen to come to this. You mention a 5-7 day hold in the conditioning tank, but I have the brewer saying 1-2 days hold in the tank, "At which point they're offering beer to casks with yeast counts of about 1/2-3/4 million."

Did you get the CV period of 5-7 days while on tour? Appreciate the clarification. So far, here's what I have:

Slow start to the brewday - screwed up the water and had to start over. So was nightime by the time I was collecting and I collected at WAY too freaking cold. Cold night and I made no provision for cooling down outside while being collected. So I ended up at 54 (!) and had to stay up that night in the hope it would rise to 60. No go, had to sleep, so pitched at 56F, with worries.

Next morning, it had risen to 65 and I was getting a krausen. I began the rousing schedule of every 3 hours, rouse.

This morning, fully 68F. I'm calling this "day one of main ferment" and plan to keep the rouse q3h schedule through Monday morning, gravity sampling qd (every day).

Slow step to 50F over 48 hours (Wednesday morning). Maintain at 50F x 2 days.

Rack to dry hopping tank. Dry hop x 3 days. Isinglass and fine x 24 hours. Rack to (brite tank - force carb, keg/and or CP bottle); cask; bottling bucket for natural conditioning.
 
McKnuckle, or others:

I've been on a British homebrewing site, which has been tremendously interesting. They've been really generous with their thoughts and I'm fascinated by how much they harvest yeast and open ferment, along with a lot of other practices I've yet to tap on their site.

I have my first "yorkshire square emulation" in tank and have had some issues with a really slow ferment. Basically, I'd just love to tighten up the precise routine Black Sheep (or Timothy Taylor) does, if possible. So here's my stab.

1. Pitch yeast at 60-63F. Do not oxygenate. Use fishtail that will late be used during rousing periods. I have seen many sources say they do not begin to rouse for 24-36-48 hours. Do these beers (1) get oxygenated by this fishtail recirc right away, even if the breweries wait to begin the regular pumping routine, or do they jump right in to the pump/rouse, every 3 hours, 6 minutes?

2. I presume they skim the brown krausen once it comes up and can be skimmed without taking the nascent little white krausen underneath. Something like 24 hours in.

3. Whenever it commences, the pumping and rousing routine continues to some set point. I have seen variances here - some ratio of expected attenuation (e.g., "1/4" or "1/5" from anticipated FG), or fermentable extract ("0.8-1.0" (DeClerck)). Most on the British site I saw seem to just take their rousing through to very close to FG. Say, 1.012 and finish to 1.009 on racking into a tank.

The rest is easy, I think. Black sheep does a cooldown to 10C of at least 36 hours, followed by 2 days at 10C, followed by transfer and conditioning in a conditioning tank where beer becomes ready for cask. Having some residual sugar and even a known concentration of active yeast seems to be important to this tradition, from what I've seen, with some (like Black Sheep) using no priming sugar.

Anyway, my main concern is over the rousing schedule: do they oxygenate their pitched wort; when do they start the pumped rousing ; when do they stop - and why do they stop there; and what residual extract markers do they use to send into secondary.
 
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@Gadjobrinus Would love to hear an update on your experience if you're still working with the Yorkshire yeast?

Fascinating thread and I'm waiting on my White Labs Yorkshire Square yeast as soon as it is released from the Vault

Hey Mark, thanks for posting and I wish I had something for you. We moved and I'm trying to lock in a more permanent setup as I don't yet have water and electricity, though I've got a clean, dry garage. I can get electric more easily, but shuttling water back and forth from home to brewery (not to mention the reverse, for cleanup), is a no-go. Some health issues have gotten in the way, too. But I hope to get going soon, and after I get back in, to get back on this Yorkshire project. I do have a 10 gallon open square thanks to the goodness of another member here, and hope to setup a more proper environment so none of the stuff I learned has been tossed. For very special mention, I'd like to thank northern_brewer and cire for being the British brewers that have been really kind and generous in sharing their thoughts in this vein.

We'll get there! Thanks again for your interest!
 
Just wanted to say thanks all for the great read! Still working my way through it but have been fascinated by the idea for some time.
 
More interesting to this thread would be the relatives of WLP037 - the POF+ WLP038 Manchester and the POF- WLP026, both of which would be interesting to try in a square.
 


The above post was made in the "English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?" thread but is sort related to this one so I am doing a cross post quote.


I know this is not exactly what @Gadjobrinus was building but it seems like he might have eluded to a similar approach about half through this thread.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...re-on-a-home-level.635302/page-3#post-8098854

I am thinking about trying something similar to this with some wlp037 to see if it really tones down phenols.

 
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