• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Yeast Washing Illustrated

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Anyboby ever/any reason not to use the shot dispensers you put on a bottle of hard alcohol to drop the trub and other random crap? (Aside from it being just about impossible to clean and sanitize properly.)
 
Anyboby ever/any reason not to use the shot dispensers you put on a bottle of hard alcohol to drop the trub and other random crap? (Aside from it being just about impossible to clean and sanitize properly.)

You mean the ones where the shots are dispensed from the bottom (ie, the bottle is upside down)? That might be useful.
 
This may have been asked earlier in the thread, but I honestly don't have time to read 37 pages of a thread. Here's my sitiation....

Just brewed an AB clone about 1.070...I pitched onto the cake of a Brown Ale, Wyeast American Ale, that was previously washed. The thing fermented like crazy, the Krausen settled after about 3 days. I'm assuming this would be a prime opportunity to wash this yeast, and get another 4-5 mason jars of this yeast with a high cell count.

I'm just not sure if this yeast will be too stressed or not, wutchu think?:mug:
 
I am adding this just as a data point for others using this method:

I just used my first "washed yeast" collected using the steps outlined in this thread. The pitched example looked exactly as pictured in OP (the 1/2 pt jar on the right). I estimate that I had about 5ml of slurry.

The yeast was 3 months old (washed on 12/29/08) and pitch on 3/29/09 into a 2 qt starter. It took 18 hrs to show signs of activity (note - no stir plate, just lots of shaking) and was rocking like crazy at 24 hrs.

I pitched at near peak activity (no decanting) into 5.5 gals of oatmeal stout. It started bubbling within 6-8 hours and was pushing out the blow tube sometime between 10-18 hrs from pitching (basically sometime during the night).

I am anxous the see the final Attentuation numbers, but expect they will be on the low side given the nature of the grain bill.

Thanks to Bernie Brewer for posting this!!!!

:mug:
 
Yes, many thanks to Bernie for this post. I tried my first attempt at yeast washing a Wyeast 1056 cake from an Amber Ale brewed three weeks ago. I got two small jars of some very nice looking yeast in the fridge as I type this.

I do have a question that has been addressed before but not in much detail. The amber was a higher OG, 1.076, and I know there has been much speculation on mutation from high OG cakes. What is the highest OG others have used washed yeast from? I'm thinking of using it next week in an IPA.

Washed_Yeast.jpg
 
Question: How long does washed yeast last? And how to tell when it goes bad?

I have about dozen or so different jars of washed yeast that have been sitting around in my fridge for about 3 months now, and I recently noticed that some of the yeast samples are starting to turn brown/grey. Though, when opened they don't smell bad and taste fine. It it normal for yeast to change color when stored like this, or does it just mean the yeasts going bad - Should I throw them away, or try brewing with them? Any suggestions? :confused:

Thanks!
 
I am adding this just as a data point for others using this method:

I just used my first "washed yeast" collected using the steps outlined in this thread. The pitched example looked exactly as pictured in OP (the 1/2 pt jar on the right). I estimate that I had about 5ml of slurry.

The yeast was 3 months old (washed on 12/29/08) and pitch on 3/29/09 into a 2 qt starter. It took 18 hrs to show signs of activity (note - no stir plate, just lots of shaking) and was rocking like crazy at 24 hrs.

I pitched at near peak activity (no decanting) into 5.5 gals of oatmeal stout. It started bubbling within 6-8 hours and was pushing out the blow tube sometime between 10-18 hrs from pitching (basically sometime during the night).

I am anxous the see the final Attentuation numbers, but expect they will be on the low side given the nature of the grain bill.

Thanks to Bernie Brewer for posting this!!!!

:mug:

UPDATE:
ATT = 74% (WLP-004). That's 3 month old yeast. According to Mr. Malty viability should have been around 10% with my sample. Probably still under pitched, but it definitely did the job.

peace :rockin:
 
UPDATE:
ATT = 74% (WLP-004). That's 3 month old yeast. According to Mr. Malty viability should have been around 10% with my sample. Probably still under pitched, but it definitely did the job.

peace :rockin:
Good to know. Just this past weekend I decided spur-of-the-moment to brew a ~1.068 Stout...I just pitched 2 washed/decanted half-pint mason jars of washed yeast...one of which was 3 month old WLP004 (the other was 1 month old Wyeast Pacman yeast). Both of these jars had a good 30mL of 'cake' so, depending on viability, should be a decent amount. It took off slower than normal (took about 24 hours) but it's chugging like crazy now.
 
Just wondering if anybody has tried these techniques and or has ideas about them...

Proceed as you normally would and wash your yeast down to a pint jar. Let the yeast settle out of solution as will naturally happen. THEN decant the majority of your liquid off and transfer to a baby food jar. The advantage of this is obviously, space.

In a similar vein, you could decant most of the liquid off all of your pint jars of the same yeast strain and transfer the yeast from all of them into one pint jar. This way you have one jar of yeast totally filled with yeast and could pour out some when needed into a batch. Once again, space saver.

In my head, these both sound like great ideas. Usually that means I'm overlooking something. Anybody have thoughts?
 
So regarding the pictures on the sticky...............the far right is what the final product will look like. When you say pour off most of the liquid and pitch........you want less of the liquid and everything that is settled out, or less of the liquid and try not to disturb the settled stuff? I will be attempting this with my WY3068 in my Apfelwein.
 
So regarding the pictures on the sticky...............the far right is what the final product will look like. When you say pour off most of the liquid and pitch........you want less of the liquid and everything that is settled out, or less of the liquid and try not to disturb the settled stuff? I will be attempting this with my WY3068 in my Apfelwein.


You want less of the liquid and everything that has settled out. I pour most of the liquid out, put the cover back on, and give the jar a good shake to get everything into suspension. then pitch into your starter.
 
Got a starter/yeast washing question. I washed the cake from my last batch (WLP400), and pitched about a quarter of it to a starter...where it promptly blew out of the top of the airlock. I went to wash it off, resanitize, etc... and had a good amount of yeast (1/2" or so) in the airlock. I had filled the airlock with iodophor solution and wasn't sure what the effect would be on the yeast sitting in the airlock or if I could pour it back into the starter. I decided to play it safe and pour out the airlock, but am now wondering if I just negated the effect of a starter. Any thoughts?
 
Hey all,

I tried a yeast wash off of my hefe. The trub in the primary was so thick it wouldn't separate, so I tried it off of the secondary. Here is what I have;

3468410155_3a4dbcdf58.jpg


Is this enough? The baby food jars are 6 oz, and the others I don't remember. Should I scrap this or just double up/use all of them? Thanks for any input.
 
You really want to use the yeast in the primary. That is not a lot of yeast, and it will not be as good as the primary yeast would have been.

Guess I will shell out 6 bones and start over! I just figured I could make one out of it. The trub in the prime was all stuck together; had to really break it up to get it out. After about an hour or two it hadn't even started to separate. Just trying to figure out if I did anything wrong.
 
Excellent! I never did this, but you make it look easy. I might have to give this a try now that yeast is a major cost to homebrewing for me.
 
Hey

If i am constantly using WLP 001 or Wyeast 1056

Will this idea work?

Make a triple or quadruple sized starter. Let it sit on the stirplate for a few days until i see all the bubbles calm down. Put in the fridge for a day to settle. Then decant and mix with water and split into jars just like in Bernie's tutorial here? So i guess basically wash the starter as long as i make a really big starter? I'm brewing once or twice a week so I'd use the yeast I collect within 5-6 weeks..

Anyone done that before?
 
I just washed some Wyeast 1056 today froma primary of soem Autumn Ale I racked to secondary.
Stored in four 8 oz (half pint) mason jars. I'll let you know how it works for me.
 
Tried this for the first time last night, I'm guessing it's a bit easier for you guys as you all seem to use glass fermenters, here in the UK plastic FV's are the norm. Which makes it hard to say what you're pouring into the jars.

I think it worked though, will have to post some pictures later. I only have two jars as that's all my SO would allow in the fridge :(
 
Ok I just pitched the yeast into the starter, but I forgot to shake it so most of it was stuck to the bottom still, not wanting to use unboiled water I poured some of the liquid from one of my others jars (wasn't warmed up) into the jar I just pitched, gave it a good shake and got most of the stuff out and into the Demi John.

I hope that's ok, oh and it looked like this before I pitched it. What do people think?

11052009070.jpg


edit: woops biiiiiig image
 
Just wondering if anybody has tried these techniques and or has ideas about them...

Proceed as you normally would and wash your yeast down to a pint jar. Let the yeast settle out of solution as will naturally happen. THEN decant the majority of your liquid off and transfer to a baby food jar. The advantage of this is obviously, space.

In a similar vein, you could decant most of the liquid off all of your pint jars of the same yeast strain and transfer the yeast from all of them into one pint jar. This way you have one jar of yeast totally filled with yeast and could pour out some when needed into a batch. Once again, space saver.

In my head, these both sound like great ideas. Usually that means I'm overlooking something. Anybody have thoughts?

I had the same exact same idea. Based on the yeast to liquid ratio in the half pint jars its seems logical to me. Just pour off the majority of the "beer" on top shake the yeast back up in the remaining liquid and pour it into a sterilized baby food jar. I'm pretty sure this is the route I'm going, I'll just plan on making starters for my future batches.
 
Just tried doing this again and came to the conclusion that my time energy expended on doing this just aint worth it. This combined with taking up valuable fridge space... I'm tabling this for the time being.

Maybe this'll change in the future but for me it is not worth it.

I do appreciate the insightful post on how to do it though..

My .02
 
I just started saving baby food jars for this purpose so I don't have to buy another dozen pint jars. Does anyone trade yeast? I don't think I need 4 of certain yeasts, and it's a shame to just toss them.
 
I racked my mild today and harvested the yeast. My method: racked the beer, added 2 liters of sterile water, stirred up all the yeast/trub and poured it back into the liter jars. This is my normal practice, I will chill that overnight and usually see three distinct layers: beer on top, yeast, then trub on the bottom. The next morning I will pour the yeast layer into another jar. The yeast is usually noticeable because it is creamy white.

So this time the colors are throwing me.
100_3259-1.jpg


This has only been in the fridge for a couple hours, but what do you think? Is the white on the bottom yeast or trub? Is the dark stuff yeast? This is wyeast 1968, it tends to be very chunky.

I've washed a couple of batches, and the 1968 I did looked exactly like that too. I wasn't sure, either, what part of it was trub, so I combined all 3 jars together (decanting most of the "beer" from all 3, and then pouring all but the very bottom of the 2 into the last one) - so hopefully I covered all my bases. I pitched into a batch of porter yesterday afternoon and it's not going yet (it's at 68*), but I'm not worrying about it yet.

Beerific - did you ever get clarification on the 1968 washed yeast?
 
Just wanted to thank Bernie for posting this thread. I've used this method a few times. It works really well and isn't hard to do. I won't have to buy yeast for a long time.
 
Is there any reason not to do this with a 2qt mason jar and two 1 qt mason jars as opposed to the 2qt and 4 pint jars?

And if not, would I need a starter for each of the 1qt jars of yeast other than enough to ensure that they are in fact alive?
 
Boil it for about 20 minutes or so. This will sanitize everything as well as get rid of any oxygen in the water, so the yeasties will take a nice long nap. Then remove the jars and lids with the tongs, keeping them full of water.

Pour the water from the jars into the carboy

IMG_0708.jpg

I have to disagree with the notion that this method will remove the dissolved oxygen from the water. The amount of dissolved oxygen is a function of temperature and pressure (for instance, by applying a vacuum oxygen is not allowed to go back into the water). The boiling water does remove the dissolved oxygen; however, you are refrigerating the water and then exposing the water back to the air. But the main reason I take issue with saying the oxygen has been removed is with your method of introducing the water into the carboy. The water will most certainly be very oxygenated as it falls high and slowly through the funnel and down into the yeast like a waterfall, and splashing. Much less oxygenation is needed to keep an aquarium thriving. I realize that you are going about your methods to keep good sanitation, but I think it's misleading to say that the water is not oxygenated...just the opposite.
 
If I'm washing and brewing/pitching on the same day, how many ounces of suspended yeast solution should I pitch directly into the freshly boiled and cooled wort. I won't have time to make a starter since I will be bottling washing and brewing in a span of about 6 or 7 hours.
 
Back
Top