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WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

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I have a 1.055 Amber that looks like its finishing up today. I fermented in my chamber cold, having ambient temperature set around 58. I always add about 5-8deg during fermentation, I wanted to keep this beer perfectly on the low end of the spectrum. I will pull a SG tonight and see how she tatstes...
 
What was your actual starter/batch size?



Do you mean grain to keg in 4 days, or are you taking into account some kind of vigorous speed carbing?

The starter was 2L and the batch was 10G, actually closer to 11G. And I did mean grain to GLASS in 4 days, which I accomplished. I'm sure it will taste better in the coming week(s) depending on how long it lasts.

For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc. I then tossed the keg into my kegerator at 40*F and attached to CO2 @ 25psi. 24 hours later it was sufficiently carbed, but higher carbonation would be nice plus it would help cover the green beer taste.

That was all 24 hours ago, so I'm going to take another QA sample riiiiight now!
 
The starter was 2L and the batch was 10G, actually closer to 11G. And I did mean grain to GLASS in 4 days, which I accomplished. I'm sure it will taste better in the coming week(s) depending on how long it lasts.

For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc. I then tossed the keg into my kegerator at 40*F and attached to CO2 @ 25psi. 24 hours later it was sufficiently carbed, but higher carbonation would be nice plus it would help cover the green beer taste.

That was all 24 hours ago, so I'm going to take another QA sample riiiiight now!

I respect the ambition, but the beer's flavor would improve faster at room temperature on the full yeast cake. By racking the beer of the yeast and chilling it, you're slowing down the metabolic processes that are responsible for cleaning up the beer's flavor profile. I think leaving the beer on the yeast for a week or two would result in better beer sooner. "Super yeast" or not, final gravity is not the only measure by which a beer is "done." It needs to taste done, too.

Like I said, nice job knocking out 10 gallons faster than most 5 gallon batches are done rocking through their primary fermentation -- but it's not the best way to make beer.
 
For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc.

Be careful with this method -- it's easy to overcarb, and if you go too far, you'll end up creating carbonic acid in the beer, which gives a pretty harsh flavor. I accidentally did this with a brown ale recently, and it took some time for that flavor to mellow out.

I usually just hook it up to 40 psi overnight (after chilling), and by the next morning it's pretty well carb'd. I'm going to avoid the shaking method from this point on.
 
Turns out that my Spectometer is screwed up. When I tested with a regular hydrometer, I'm at 15, which is a little higher than I was expecting, but not all that surprising because I had a high percentage of non-fermentables (hence the higher than expected "efficiency" of my my mash.) So, I have a 6.4% ABV final (1.064 to 1.015) achieved in 48 hours. No question, this is a fast yeast. It's been on the trub for a week, so I'll transfer it to a keg and let it finish there. Meanwhile, I harvested some of the yeast and have a starter going for a dark ale I'll brew this weekend. Let's see how it does this time!
 
This may not necessarily be a WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast problem, but this is the first time I've used this yeast and this was the result. You can see that the rubber stopper/blow off tube was completely blown off and about 3 gallons of wort was blown off. I brewed this Saturday and by Sunday it had started fermenting. The starting temp was in the 50's because my new controller was reading next to the door and kept the fridge on for awhile. I adjusted that and got the temp to around 64. It had been fermenting for 2 days and was a normal fermentation with krausen blowing off through the tube. This is what my wife found this morning after I went to work (fortunately, she loves brewing as much as I do). Any thoughts about why this might have happened?

IMAG0096.jpg


IMAG0097.jpg
 
This may not necessarily be a WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast problem, but this is the first time I've used this yeast and this was the result. You can see that the rubber stopper/blow off tube was completely blown off and about 3 gallons of wort was blown off. I brewed this Saturday and by Sunday it had started fermenting. The starting temp was in the 50's because my new controller was reading next to the door and kept the fridge on for awhile. I adjusted that and got the temp to around 64. It had been fermenting for 2 days and was a normal fermentation with krausen blowing off through the tube. This is what my wife found this morning after I went to work (fortunately, she loves brewing as much as I do). Any thoughts about why this might have happened?

DUDE! Thats some serious carnage, congrats.

Sucks about the beer though.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.
 
Used the 090 on a IIPA that was a Pliny clone it worked great got the beer from 1077 to 1011 that was at 62 degrees but the only thing is it didn't want to floc out. Took allot of time to clear up. But I may give it another try see what happens.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I use a hop bag and toss all the hops in there. There is virtually no hop matter by the time the wort is cooled and transferred to the fermenter.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I think protein has a hand in more blowoffs than hop material. Wheat beers are notorious for their blowoffs.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I've had 5 gallons of apfelwein bubble up into the airlock on a 7.9 gallon bucket, sometimes **** just happens.
 
San Diego Super Yeast update:

My American Amber Ale brewed fast, attenuated really well, and tastes fantastic, even though it's less than two weeks old! I have it aging in a keg, so I've sneaked a couple of samples. Very nice. The SDSY is very neutral. I won't use it again for a flavorful American ale, because it's a little TOO clean.

But that gave me an idea: I was moving in July, and wasn't able to start brewing again until late August -- too late for an Octoberfest. But the SDSY was so fast and clean...last night I brewed my "OctoberJest," using all of the ingredients I'd purchased for the Marzen/Octoberfest I didn't get to brew. I'm fermenting it on the cool end of SDSY's recommended range, then I'll raise the temp about five degrees when it appears to be done with primary, just like I would a lager. After a few days there, I'll crash the temp, keg, and let it "lager" for a couple of weeks. Then, if it's not as clear as I'd like, I'll put it through the polisher (I avoid filtering except when I want something REALLY clear.) It won't be a true Octoberfest, of course, but it should be a reasonable facsimile, suitable for drinking while singing some German Beer Hall songs. But I should have a pretty drinkable beer in plenty of time for the festivities.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
@bigbeergeek:
Yep, I was fully aware of the negative side effects that would ensue by rushing a beer through fermentation by all means possible. I agree it would be wise to give the yeast time to clean up, but I was more concerned with getting them to flocc out rather than clean up the byproducts - I'll deal with esters flavors better than yeast flavors. My pipeline was dry and I am pretty broke so I actually took what I had on hand and whipped up a batch as quick as I could, to keep the kegs full while I devised and executed the next brew.

@bwarbiany:
I'd heard about that side-effect, but I wanted to shake it enough so that I could hook it up inside the fridge @ 20psi (my normal kegging pressure @ 40*F) and still have it ready in a day. So instead of shaking for an hour, I just gave it a few minutes of shaking and that turned out fine. I was aiming for a high amount of carbonation too, anything I could do to mask the green beer & yeasty flavors.

But all that worked! Day 4 it was not particularly ready, but by day 5 it was drinkable and day 6 it was verrrry drinkable. It's now 13 days old and tastes pretty good! Came out similar to a Goose Island 312 but with more hop character, citrusy and floral just like I wanted. Clarity is very good for such a young beer, no fruity or harsh esters, no phenolic or fusel alcohol tastes.

All in all, I'd give this yeast an A. I will be keeping it in my yeast bank, as this may be a priiiime candidate to use on a DFH 120MIPA clone that I've got planned in the future. Follow this up with the WLP099 and I think I'll have a good fun time trying to make a 15%+ beer!
 
I used San Diego for the first time. Made a Blonde Ale OG 1.046. Fermentation room set at 64* which gives an internal of about 68*F It took less than 6 days for the bubbler on my Conical to all but quit. My first taste from pulling a sample and it was very pleasant, but I'm letting it sit till day 11 then Kegging and plan on serving by about day 17. I took a reading and it was basically done, but I didn't write it down, bad on my part, I think it was 1.010. Will take another when I keg it.

Day 8 went to pull yeast and it was so thick it almost wouldn't come out of the Blichman 14 gallon conical. So apparently it is settling out good.

Pitched said yeast into next batch. Second batch, basically same Blonde Ale with few modifications, OG 1.044 seems to have an even more aggressive fermentation. My pitch was maybe a little over spec. 8fl oz of good thick yeast for 12 gallons. I pitched at 5 PM came back next morning at 7 AM and it was rolling bubbles out of lock very very rapidly.
 
Update on the Centennial blonde ale(OG 1.040)fermented with super yeast:

Starting to mellow out nicely after almost 4 weeks in the bottle. It was carbonated after only about a week in the bottle, but it was still kind of harsh tasting for a couple more weeks. So this stuff does work fast, but it takes a bit longer to condition properly and taste right. The wheat wine I pitched onto the cake is ready to bottle now. The gravity is staying put at about 1.019-1.020, same as it was after only 4 days of fermentation. Pretty impressive that this yeast brought it down to that from an OG of 1.090 so quickly. The only reason it's not bottled yet is I've been dry hopping it. Overall I'd say this is a pretty good yeast. Pretty neutral, not much different than Cal ale that I can tell. It ferments fast, but with the extended conditioning time needed it kind of evens out. The real benefit is in only having to maintain fermentation temps for a few days as opposed to a week or two. I bought another vial and plan on doing the same type of thing again: A light, low gravity ale and then a high gravity monster pitched onto the cake.
 
I used San Diego for the first time. Made a Blonde Ale OG 1.046. Fermentation room set at 64* which gives an internal of about 68*F It took less than 6 days for the bubbler on my Conical to all but quit. My first taste from pulling a sample and it was very pleasant, but I'm letting it sit till day 11 then Kegging and plan on serving by about day 17. I took a reading and it was basically done, but I didn't write it down, bad on my part, I think it was 1.010. Will take another when I keg it.

Kegged this yesterday. FG 1.008 Put in Carb Fridge. Drank a glass today it is good but needs a little more time to mature.

Day 8 went to pull yeast and it was so thick it almost wouldn't come out of the Blichman 14 gallon conical. So apparently it is settling out good.

Pitched said yeast into next batch. Second batch, basically same Blonde Ale with few modifications, OG 1.044 seems to have an even more aggressive fermentation. My pitch was maybe a little over spec. 8fl oz of good thick yeast for 12 gallons. I pitched at 5 PM came back next morning at 7 AM and it was rolling bubbles out of lock very very rapidly.
This batch is 6 days and the bubbler is done. Really won't know how 'fast' this yeast is if like last poster says. It may need more time to mellow, thus not really maturing faster. BUT... If you let yourself run out of homebrew, this will definately put bubbly in the keg FAST!
 
Im 24 hours into a split 10 g batch of Belgian/west coast IPA. O.G. is at 1.071 and with an all Belgian grain bill and American hops.The Wlp530 is in one carboy and Wlp090 in the other. My temp started a bit high at 75 and the 530 clearly prefers it, its going off. While the 090 is moving along but not with the vigor of the 530. I'm now using the trusty swamp cooler technique to bring the 090 into its preferred range and hoping it gets cracking. Anyhow ill report back with f.g. and duration.
 
I pitched a liter starter into a red ipa 1.073 just around 60 hours ago. Krausen has already fallen. Temps started at 62 and are now sitting at 65. Not sure why the krausen has fallen so quickly, but it does seem to be active still. Probably taking a gravity reading tomorrow to make sure its alright.
 
Well, 1.073 to 1.010 in 3 days. Pitched thursday night, fermentation was going strong at 7am friday and krausen fell sunday. These yeasties mean business. Gonna have to wash some of the cake for sure.
 
My second pale ale made with this yeast went from Kettle to Keg and served in just under 3 weeks, and it does not need any more time to mellow. Had company over to taste it and they thought it was awesome.

I had the fermentation room set at 60*F so an internal at 62-64 for the conical. It was done bubbling in a week. Left it sit at 60* for another 10 days. Then I kegged it and it was in the keggerator carbonating for 2, served on the 3rd day in the keggerator. 20 days and it really is a great tasting beer. I wanted to bottle the second keg (10 gallon batch) but it will go too fast the way everyone liked it. I think bringing it down a few more degree's and giving it just a few more days made this just right.

I'm keeping this yeast as my american ale variety.

I've now pitched some in my Honey Cream Ale to see how it works with that recipe.
 
Brewed an 1.077 IIPA a month ago with this San Diego Super Yeast and kegged last week. Finished at 1.011 and tastes fantastic. Had family in town and we drank 90% of the 5gal in 2 days.
 
specs are way different than pacman:

wlp090
Optimal Fermentation Temperature: 65-68F
Attenuation: 76-83% +
Flocculation: Medium-High
Alcohol Tolerance: High

wyeast 1764 Pacman
Alc. Tolerance 12% ABV
Flocculation med-high
Attenuation 72-78%
Temp. Range 60-72°F (15-22°C)

That doesn't mean much. Each manufacture is going to rate their brand how they think. Look at the differences between 001 and 1056, which is suppose to be the same yeast.

WLP001 California Ale Yeast
This yeast is famous for its clean flavors, balance and ability to be used in almost any style ale. It accentuates the hop flavors and is extremely versatile.
Attenuation: 73-80%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-73°F
(20-23°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: High

1056 American Ale
Very clean, crisp flavor characteristics with low fruitiness and mild ester production. A very versatile yeast for styles that desire dominant malt and hop character. This strain makes a wonderful “House” strain. Mild citrus notes develop with cooler 60-66°F (15-19ºC) fermentations. Normally requires filtration for bright beers.
Flocculation: Medium-Low
Attenuation: 73-77%
Temperature Range: 60-72F, 15-22C
Alcohol Tolerance: 11% ABV
 
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