What Temp

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Jim Gamble

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I'm getting ready to start my next batch. And it's going to be a chocolate stout. Using the Mr. Beer extract with additional roasted grains and chocolate nibs from my local brew supply store. Need to know at what temp should my water be and how long should I steep the grains prior to adding the extract?
 
Your water needs to be somewhere between 100F and boiling and you should steep the grains for 15 to 60 minutes.

In other words, steeping isn't a real critical step in your brewing. Now if you want to do it right, steep between 152 and 155F. Why? Because that is within the range needed for all grain brewing and it will be good practice. If you ever get an extract kit that happens to have a base malt in the steeping grains, you will be doing a mash for them.

If you can measure water volume accurately and heat that volume to the range of 148 to 158 consitently, you can brew all grain. BIAB makes it very easy if you want to try it.
 
Crush your grains if not already crushed, pop them all into a muslin bag (not a must but makes removing them a whole lot easier) heat your water to around 152F and pop them in. Let them sit for 20-30 mins. I say 152F as a few degrees below or above will be fine. During the steep just try not to let the temp drop too much cooler than 150 and certainly don't let them steep above 170. After the 20-30 mins, remove the muslin bag, let the excess liquid drain off back into the kettle, bring the water up to a boil and continue your brew as you would.
 
Crush your grains if not already crushed, pop them all into a muslin bag (not a must but makes removing them a whole lot easier) heat your water to around 152F and pop them in. Let them sit for 20-30 mins. I say 152F as a few degrees below or above will be fine. During the steep just try not to let the temp drop too much cooler than 150 and certainly don't let them steep above 170. After the 20-30 mins, remove the muslin bag, let the excess liquid drain off back into the kettle, bring the water up to a boil and continue your brew as you would.

+1 on all of this. I want to highlight not steeping above 170F. The issue if you steep in water that's too hot that you will extract harsh tannins from the grains while will impact your beer.
 
When I steeped I used my oven. Pre-heat it to it's lowest temp setting. Place the grain in a mesh bag, heat the pot of water to about 150, put the grain bag in the pot, cover it, place in pre-heated oven for 30 minutes....no muss, no fuss.

Also, I would suggest using cocoa powder instead of nibs, I think you get better flavor. At the brewery we have a chocolate porter that started out using powder, then we went to nibs, we are now back to powder. It is added to the fermenter, like a dry hop.
 
Nibs can leave cocoa butter oils suspended in your wort that will affect the positive formation of foaming.
Dry, processed powder will have had most of the oils removed by use of heat and pressure. Add immediately after the boil to minimize any added bittering or simply put the unsweetened cocoa powder in your fermentor, primary or secondary. The powder will eventually settle out.
 
Also, I would suggest using cocoa powder instead of nibs, I think you get better flavor. At the brewery we have a chocolate porter that started out using powder, then we went to nibs, we are now back to powder. It is added to the fermenter, like a dry hop.

Can you provide any details of how the powder is mixed with the beer. If you just drop cocoa powder into beer, it will form 'globules' and most of the powder will not even get wet.

For most uses, you add liquid slowly to the powder and make a paste before adding the bulk of the liquid.

When I use it, I add water to the powder to get it to a paste, then to a liquid and add some LME to ensure the yeast get in there and disperse the cocoa throughout the beer. I also heat to 160 F to pasteurize before adding after all the messing about.

I'd like to know if there is a simpler way of adding it post fermentation.
 
Can you provide any details of how the powder is mixed with the beer. If you just drop cocoa powder into beer, it will form 'globules' and most of the powder will not even get wet.

For most uses, you add liquid slowly to the powder and make a paste before adding the bulk of the liquid.

When I use it, I add water to the powder to get it to a paste, then to a liquid and add some LME to ensure the yeast get in there and disperse the cocoa throughout the beer. I also heat to 160 F to pasteurize before adding after all the messing about.

I'd like to know if there is a simpler way of adding it post fermentation.

At work we dump it into the 120bbl fermenter through the dry hop port on the top. At home I use a secondary and rack onto the powder.
 
At work we dump it into the 120bbl fermenter through the dry hop port on the top. At home I use a secondary and rack onto the powder.

Maybe I have been over-thinking it. Has everything turned out OK, no clumping of the cocoa? It would be nice to simplify my process.
 
So I understand the importance of keeping the steep temperature around 150. On a full boil where all the extract was added, what's the best way to keep the temp below 170?
Last batch I brewed outside and maybe that was my issue cuz it was windy as heck.
 
So I understand the importance of keeping the steep temperature around 150. On a full boil where all the extract was added, what's the best way to keep the temp below 170?
Last batch I brewed outside and maybe that was my issue cuz it was windy as heck.

I'm not sure what you're asking- you steep at 150-160, remove the grains, and then bring it to a boil. It's not hard to keep it under 170, as you can just turn off the flame. Then, when you remove the grains, turn the flame on and bring it to a boil.
 
I was asking what the best way to get precise temp control was, say within a 5 degree range of 148-153
 
"Precise" is a keyword here.
There are several ways to get controllable temperatures in the range you want.

- Apply the proper amount of heat for the job.
- Use two or more methods of monitoring temps with accurate thermometers. I have three different types of thermometers for this.
- Avoid using boil kettles with thin, single layered bottoms when boiling wort.
Induction-bottomed cookware will have extra thermal mass and the extra-weighted bottom helps distribute heat much better. It helps prevent scorching - if you're careful - and delays a quick transfer of heat, especially if you're overdoing it with a high BTU burner.
 
I was asking what the best way to get precise temp control was, say within a 5 degree range of 148-153

You can just turn off the heat and cover and it should stay in range for at least half an hour. If you cover it with a towel or blanket, it will stay at the right temperature for an hour without losing much temperature at all.
 
"Precise" is a keyword here.
There are several ways to get controllable temperatures in the range you want.

- Apply the proper amount of heat for the job.
- Use two or more methods of monitoring temps with accurate thermometers. I have three different types of thermometers for this.
- Avoid using boil kettles with thin, single layered bottoms when boiling wort.
Induction-bottomed cookware will have extra thermal mass and the extra-weighted bottom helps distribute heat much better. It helps prevent scorching - if you're careful - and delays a quick transfer of heat, especially if you're overdoing it with a high BTU burner.

I had some difficulty keeping it right at 150 so I did the best I could. It fluctuated between 148 and 155. Hope that doesn't adversely affect the wort or the final product.
 
I guess next time I'll try it in the garage instead of outside on a windy 40 degree day that got colder and windier as it got later...oops. Probably not the best decision but being in Chicago the sun looked too good that day.
I think the first 20 mins were in 160 or less the last 10 mins temps were all over. The OG sample I tasted didn't have any off flavors or astringent ones, so maybe ill.be fine.
 
Keeping the temperature stable for an hour on a cold windy day is near impossible. However, if you mill your grain fine (or get someone to do it for you) the bulk of the conversion is over fairly quickly and once conversion is done, the rest of the time you are extracting flavor and color where the precise temperature isn't critical.

Inside your garage with the door open or partially open will be much better than trying to maintain the temperature in the wind. You can heat the water to strike temp (http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/infusion.html), drop in a bag and quickly stir in the grains, then cover the pot with a blanket, sleeping bag, or coat to keep the heat in without firing your burner. At the end of the mash period remove the bag and let it drain, sparge if you want/need to, then go for a boil.
 
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