What is the one best change you've made to upgrade your beer quality?

[OG-wan Kenobi]

Ditched extract for all grain was by miles the best thing I did

 

[danielthemaniel]

Thank you all for the responses. I heard a lot of what I anticipated. I'm currently all grain, I had ward labs do an analysis on my tap water and adjust and dilute with RO water to hit target profiles, I have 2 fermentation chambers for temp controlled fermentations and I try to get the highest quality of ingredients that I can. I also have a rule of no drinking before the timer on the boil starts.

The one take away that I was planning on instituting on my brew starting Wednesday is to do closed transfers. I have had too many brews taste world class out of the fermenter only to end up very good once kegged. I assume this is my next step.

Thoughts?

 

[rickwho]

I upgraded to a Grainfather and started adjusting Ph of mash. Efficiency went from about 70% to 85%.

Since I live in Florida and don't have a fermentation fridge/freeze, I have been unable to brew a lager. But I did get a BrewJacket Immersion Pro as a gift and gave it a try. It still can't cool to a low enough temperature, even with house kept at 72. Gonna be interesting to see how the dunkel I'm fermenting turns out. So I guess next upgrade needs to be a fridge/freezer for fermentation temperature control.

 

[thehaze]

Pitch rate, fermentation temperature, mash and post-boil pH and trying to minimize oxygen exposure. Of course, other things can help a bit, if you know what you want from a beer, but those could prove less important than the aforementioned factors.

 

[doogster]

Fermentation Temperature Control
Water (at LEAST treat to remove chlorine/choramines)

 

[kevin58]

First was buying a grain mill. Next was fermentation temperature control.

 

[Jim R]

The water chemistry part is pretty cheap and easy. It costs me about $10 to switch to jugs of bottled water from the local store ($4 per 4 gal jug). The bottled water company has their water chemistry profile online which saved doing an expensive comprehensive water test on my home water. All my bottled water needed was 1 gram of Calcium Sulphate (gypsum) per gallon which is also cheap and easy. I now brew with near perfect water by simply hauling a few jugs of water home from the store.

 

[Bilsch]

When I realized HSA is not a myth and that the little things do matter.

 

[specialkayme]

The one take away that I was planning on instituting on my brew starting Wednesday is to do closed transfers. I have had too many brews taste world class out of the fermenter only to end up very good once kegged. I assume this is my next step.

Thoughts?

Reducing cold side oxidation is the one improvement area that I haven't been able to reliably, safely and cheaply implement. All other areas of improvement were cheap and easy (typically under $20 and instant, like water chemistry, overbuilt yeast starters, or BIAB, for example), or moderately costly an easy (typically around $100, like a grain mill or a fermentation chamber). But cold side oxidation has been more difficult for me.

I brew out of glass carboys (I love the history with them). To pressure transfer from one to a keg requires some skill and danger. I use a sterile syphon (https://www.morebeer.com/products/s...AH0VGe0rohFNG2UjwhIRY3aPgQLNwuCRoCbxsQAvD_BwE), and attach a car cap where the air inlet filter goes (https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-line-cleaning-ball-lock-cap-stainless.html). It enables me to slowly insert co2 from a tank (at around 1 or 2 psi) to pressure transfer the beer from the carboy to a starsan and co2 purged keg.

It has improved things considerably for me, but it's no way from perfect. Putting a glass carboy under pressure (even 1 or 2 psi) is very dangerous, and I hate doing it. It also doesn't solve the cold side oxidation issues that occur when I open it up to check the final gravity. Plus it isn't a perfect pressure transfer.

The solution for me will be getting either a Spike Flex+ or a CF5. But they come with some big price tags that I'm having a hard time justifying.

 

[kingmatt]

I had to dump my second batch ever today because I got lazy with my pitch rate (I didn't make a starter) and temp control (my ferm chamber is occupied and fermentation temps got up to the upper 70s) resulting in an undrinkable fusel/phenolic mess. Lesson learned.

 

[kartracer2]

I had to dump my second batch ever today because I got lazy with my pitch rate (I didn't make a starter) and temp control (my ferm chamber is occupied and fermentation temps got up to the upper 70s) resulting in an undrinkable fusel/phenolic mess. Lesson learned.

I hope this comes out in the spirit intended, I mean no offense or make any judgment.
OK. would you have tossed this beer if you didn't feel that you are a better brewer now than when you started to brew?. My point is that have your expectations changed so much you might have drank this beer if it, lets say, was your first or 2nd batch or was it really undrinkable by any standard?.

Thanks, Joel B.

 

[Mer-man]

Learn more from brewing science and process authorities.
Once you better understand the impacts of all the process changes you can make in brewing, you will go from happy accidents to gradual improvement and learning.
There are so many facets of brewing that it will keep you busy for a long time -- and your beer will get better.

 

[kingmatt]

I hope this comes out in the spirit intended, I mean no offense or make any judgment.
OK. would you have tossed this beer if you didn't feel that you are a better brewer now than when you started to brew?. My point is that have your expectations changed so much you might have drank this beer if it, lets say, was your first or 2nd batch or was it really undrinkable by any standard?.

Thanks, Joel B.

I am definitely at point where I won't drink a beer I don't like just because I made it. The beer I just dumped was undrinkable in my opinion, but I am sure some people would be ok with it.

 

[NewJersey]

About a month ago I made a beer for the first time in 3.5 years. New system. Mistakes made brewing. New fermenter. None of that really impacted the beer though. Fermentation was temperature controlled. Problem was I kegged it the second it hit FG. And really it might've had a point or two to go before I cold crashed. Diacetyl mess.
Still gotta pay attention to basics.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Thank you all for the responses. I heard a lot of what I anticipated. I'm currently all grain, I had ward labs do an analysis on my tap water and adjust and dilute with RO water to hit target profiles, I have 2 fermentation chambers for temp controlled fermentations and I try to get the highest quality of ingredients that I can. I also have a rule of no drinking before the timer on the boil starts.

The one take away that I was planning on instituting on my brew starting Wednesday is to do closed transfers. I have had too many brews taste world class out of the fermenter only to end up very good once kegged. I assume this is my next step.

Thoughts?

I agree with your thoughts, from where you are currently. I had very similar results and when i switched to a spike conical and have been doing closed transfers the beer i pour several weeks later is still as good as it was on day 1, or well day 14 after some conditioning depending on the beer. minimizing oxygen has been a huge improvement overall.

 

[LittleRiver]

Reducing cold side oxidation is the one improvement area that I haven't been able to reliably, safely and cheaply implement....Putting a glass carboy under pressure (even 1 or 2 psi) is very dangerous, and I hate doing it.... solution for me will be getting either a Spike Flex+ or a CF5. But they come with some big price tags that I'm having a hard time justifying.

Do you have an aversion to PET fermenters? They've worked great for me for several years. No infections, super easy to clean, inexpensive, safe, and gravity powered closed transfers are a breeze using the spigot.

 

[LittleRiver]

Significant improvement steps for me were:

• fermentation temp control
• milling my own grain (for better efficiency)
• kegging, with closed transfer to the keg

 

[charliethebum]

I upgraded to a Grainfather and started adjusting Ph of mash. Efficiency went from about 70% to 85%.

Since I live in Florida and don't have a fermentation fridge/freeze, I have been unable to brew a lager. But I did get a BrewJacket Immersion Pro as a gift and gave it a try. It still can't cool to a low enough temperature, even with house kept at 72. Gonna be interesting to see how the dunkel I'm fermenting turns out. So I guess next upgrade needs to be a fridge/freezer for fermentation temperature control.

Definitely make it happen. Precise temperature control is necessary for consistently great beer

 

[specialkayme]

Do you have an aversion to PET fermenters?

Generally, yes. I did a few early brews in a 6 gallon bucket. Seeing the scratches appear in the plastic, and the discoloration had a really off putting feeling to me. And the general consensus is to just throw it out when it gets old. I just don't like it. I get the PET carboys are a world away from bucket fermenters, but more plastic is just something I don't like.

 

[LittleRiver]

Generally, yes. I did a few early brews in a 6 gallon bucket. Seeing the scratches appear in the plastic, and the discoloration had a really off putting feeling to me. And the general consensus is to just throw it out when it gets old. I just don't like it. I get the PET carboys are a world away from bucket fermenters, but more plastic is just something I don't like.

If using a PET fermenter would diminish your enjoyment of brewing, then by all means don't use them. We are different in our perception on this. Having actually used PET fermenters for many years I've found that they increase my enjoyment of brewing.

Glass is a non starter for me. Too fragile, too dangerous, and too difficult to clean thoroughly (most have a narrow opening).

I don't see myself switching to stainless, because I like a clear fermenter. I like to watch the yeast work. I want to see when the krausen has fallen. I want to see when a cold crash has finished clarifying the beer (especially when using a yeast with low flocculation).

The sweet spot for me is PET. Years of use have proven to me that fears of scratching are just that -- fears. Being able to reach my arm into the fermenter for a good cleaning with a soft sponge has never resulted in a scratch. I've never had an infection.

I've got several years on my PET fermenters, they are not discolored, and I do not foresee a need to trash them. That may eventually happen, but it's going to be a long time away. PET fermenters are safe, there's zero chance they will badly injure me. A bottom spigot enables taking samples and gravity powered closed transfers. What's not to love?

 

[hopjuice_71]

Fermenting in kegs for complete cold-side O2 exclusion and natural carbonation via spunding was a game changer for me.

For those who like stainless, kegs make fantastic fermenters. Many of the advantages of conicals and unitanks (not all) without the horrific price tag. A new 10 gallon corny costs $200 now. I got 3 used ones for a total of $150. Add a floating dip tube and spunding valve and you have a stainless steel vessel that you can fully pressurize and use for closed transfers.

 

[z-bob]

Brewing the same beer (or very minor variations) over and over.

Accepting that I can't really control the temperature that much and temperature is important, so I pick styles of beer and varieties of yeast appropriate for the temperature I have.

(that's 2, isn't it? I was supposed to just give one. I'm not sure which was most significant)

 

[specialkayme]

Glass is a non starter for me. Too fragile, too dangerous, and too difficult to clean thoroughly (most have a narrow opening).

I've used glass carboys for over 15 years, and have never been concerned about one breaking under normal conditions. Much like your view on PET, years of use have proven to me that fears of fragile glass carboys are just that -- fears. Sure I can't toss a glass carboy around, but why would I want to? Dont toss one from hot to cold, or back and it'll be just fine.

I think glass carboys are actually quite sturdy and very easy to clean, considering that I have zero concerns about scratches or chemical issues. I like the idea that I can pass my carboys down to my grandchildren. Something I think is unlikely with PET carboys.

But to each their own. That's what makes this hobby so awesome.

I'll admit, I got a PET 3 gallon carboy about a week or so ago. I was in the market for a 3 gallon carboy to do half batches with, and decided to try a PET out. I don't think I'll like it, but I'd rather say I tried it and didn't like it than have some unverified prejudice about it. Time will tell if my fears were indeed fears.

 

[LittleRiver]

...I like the idea that I can pass my carboys down to my grandchildren...

I think some of the glass carboys in this thread were multi-generational.

 

[Cato1507]

Hello Everyone,

I've been trying to figure out what the next tweak or change I should make in my brewing to take my beers up another notch. This got me wondering what other brewers have done that has made the biggest difference in their quality of beer?

Several things for me as I wanted to try some competitions.

First was going to the Ss Brew Bucket that is stainless and has a cone shaped bottom and racking arm. Result excellent clarity.

Next I revamped my BIAB when the Brew Commander controller fell into my price range.

At that point I got the Blichmann 10 gal 240v ekettle w/whirlpool, the Brew Commander controller, and their Riptide pump. That move allowed me to control my temp in a precise fashion, whirlpooling not only allowed a hop stage after flameout but produced a nice cone of trub that remains behind when I pump to the fermenter.

I really couldn't be more pleased with those upgrades and how much my beer has improved.

 

[Braufessor]

I would agree with many of the suggestions - I would break into two categories though..... The first two things, if not correct, will ruin your beer or result it bad beer. The other things are more about improving on already decent beer.

* Water/pH - Depending on your water supply/style you are brewing, I actually think this could be the #1 thing. If you happen to have a good water supply for the particular style you brew, it may make no difference. But, if you have water that is not good for brewing, it can ruin every beer you make. So, learning about your water is a key 1st step.

* Sanitation - Bad process = Bad Beer

Once you have those two down - these are some of the next ones that can improve what you are doing:
Yeast management, All Grain, quality ingredients, Temp. Control, oxygen control, etc. are all good suggestions that can take "good/average" beer to outstanding/great beer

***One thing that I would add, which made a HUGE difference for me is repetition. Pick a particular style/beer you like and brew it over, and over and over. Tweak one thing at a time to really get a feel for what you are doing, what impact your changes make, and really helps you understand brewing. Change things like water chemistry or yeast or grain bill, or hops, or process (low oxygen or other strategies). Isolate one variable each time and just brew that beer 10-20-30 times until you perfect it..... then move on to another style. Obviously, start with something you and your friends like to drink because you will kind of always have it on hand. Start with things that are simple, easy to brew, fast to turn around and make it a "house beer."
Some of the ones I have brewed 30+ times over the years, tweaking a little here and there and trying to "perfect":
Blonde Ale
NE Pale Ale
British Dark Mild
Dortmunder Export
German Pilsner
"Americanized" German Pilsner
Porter
Simple, classic styles are the types of beers you want to target for this type of thing. Learn to perfect a style (or several).... keep brewing "one-off's", but always have a certain style you are brewing over, and over, and over as you learn about it until you are satisfied with it and feel you can brew it great, in your sleep.

 

[Cato1507]

I would agree with many of the suggestions - I would break into two categories though..... The first two things, if not correct, will ruin your beer or result it bad beer. The other things are more about improving on already decent beer.

* Water/pH - Depending on your water supply/style you are brewing, I actually think this could be the #1 thing. If you happen to have a good water supply for the particular style you brew, it may make no difference. But, if you have water that is not good for brewing, it can ruin every beer you make. So, learning about your water is a key 1st step.

* Sanitation - Bad process = Bad Beer

Once you have those two down - these are some of the next ones that can improve what you are doing:
Yeast management, All Grain, quality ingredients, Temp. Control, oxygen control, etc. are all good suggestions that can take "good/average" beer to outstanding/great beer

***One thing that I would add, which made a HUGE difference for me is repetition. Pick a particular style/beer you like and brew it over, and over and over. Tweak one thing at a time to really get a feel for what you are doing, what impact your changes make, and really helps you understand brewing. Change things like water chemistry or yeast or grain bill, or hops, or process (low oxygen or other strategies). Isolate one variable each time and just brew that beer 10-20-30 times until you perfect it..... then move on to another style. Obviously, start with something you and your friends like to drink because you will kind of always have it on hand. Start with things that are simple, easy to brew, fast to turn around and make it a "house beer."
Some of the ones I have brewed 30+ times over the years, tweaking a little here and there and trying to "perfect":
Blonde Ale
NE Pale Ale
British Dark Mild
Dortmunder Export
German Pilsner
"Americanized" German Pilsner
Porter
Simple, classic styles are the types of beers you want to target for this type of thing. Learn to perfect a style (or several).... keep brewing "one-off's", but always have a certain style you are brewing over, and over, and over as you learn about it until you are satisfied with it and feel you can brew it great, in your sleep.

+1, good points and observations.
About the time I made system upgrades, I subscribed to Beersmith software and bought an Apera ph meter, as well as a supply of brewing salts. It really does make a difference.

 

[danielthemaniel]

Great points. I definitely agree with you on all of them. I have a problem with needing variety in my beers. I struggle brewing the same thing time and time again. I do agree that this will lead to all the great benefits you mention, however. My solution has been to pick out about a handful of beers that I really enjoy and brew them seasonally, year after year. I take good notes and tweak them each year as you described. It will probably take me another 10 years of doing it this way for them to really become great haha! Oh well, it makes me happy and I get to enjoy variety in my homebrew while improving some of my "house" beers.

 

[Cato1507]

Great points. I definitely agree with you on all of them. I have a problem with needing variety in my beers. I struggle brewing the same thing time and time again. I do agree that this will lead to all the great benefits you mention, however. My solution has been to pick out about a handful of beers that I really enjoy and brew them seasonally, year after year. I take good notes and tweak them each year as you described. It will probably take me another 10 years of doing it this way for them to really become great haha! Oh well, it makes me happy and I get to enjoy variety in my homebrew while improving some of my "house" beers.

I go with the variety route by trying new styles or recipes about every third or fourth batch. I'll do smaller batches then 2.25-2.75 gal, as I can fit two of those fermenters at a time in the mini fridge.

 

[Leezer]

My solution has been to pick out about a handful of beers that I really enjoy and brew them seasonally, year after year. I take good notes and tweak them each year as you described. It will probably take me another 10 years of doing it this way for them to really become great haha! Oh well, it makes me happy and I get to enjoy variety in my homebrew while improving some of my "house" beers.

This turned out to be my approach. I have a core group I make time after time, and have started to try out new things as 1G batches rather than my usual 2.5G batch. Working out well for me too.