Today I bottled my Harlequin Pale Ale 37 50cl bottles at 4.9%.
What I did for beer today
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I washed all my 12 oz brown bottles and filled over 100 of them with hefeweizen. This is my first time using the new W-68. The final sample was good but it's not WLP-300. There wasn't much aroma when bottling.
I also kegged one part of a 15 gallon batch of pale ale. The other 10 gallons are still under pressure in my allrounder. This part was fermented in a bucket. The aroma from the cryo Simcoe and Mosaic was intense when I opened the bucket. yum.
I also kegged one part of a 15 gallon batch of pale ale. The other 10 gallons are still under pressure in my allrounder. This part was fermented in a bucket. The aroma from the cryo Simcoe and Mosaic was intense when I opened the bucket. yum.
Picked up 2x4's for my brewery build. Didn't have time to work on it though.
A couple days ago I washed bottles, today I brewed a partial mash kit to be served at an event, nice and quick brew day. Yeast has been pitched and I’ll be done cleaning in the next few minutes. Tomorrow I need to bring out the beer gun to package a certain beer for a competition and check the starsan in the airlocks.
American strong. Bottled for competition and sharing.
On Facebook Marketplace a homebrewer was giving away bottles so I picked up 5 cases. Bottles were clean on inside but still had labels. I’m using eBIAB equipment to make hot water PBW mix to attack labels in brute trash can. Works well except for Elysian label….
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Yes, those plastic labels don't soak off very well and you have to apply a solvent like goo gone, or one of the organic hydrocarbons. I have found it easier to peel the labels in their entirety rather than scrape them off. Good luck
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The Elysians are tough to get off! Not worth trying in my opinion. I soak bottles in buckets with water, ammonia, and some Dawn for multiple days usually. Then brass brush any residues. If not all the way off or close to it, that bottle just gets chucked. I'd recycle but local center doesn't take glass. If you have a cat, the cat litter buckets work pretty good. They'll fit under your sink too, they are about the size of the bucket you already have under your sink. I keep two under my utility sink myself.
Totally agree. I have generally quit buying bottle beer mostly because I like my HB better, but also have a good supply of bottles in use now. When I do buy bottle beer, I select for paper lables that soak off. Lots of good craft beer in cans these days, and they transport well in the RV when I'm traveling so I don't have to be committed to promptly rinsing once the beer is dispensed.
Cameronl
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The high school marching band has a monthly bottle and can drive. Last time I dropped off a bag of cans I asked if I could grab some bottles in exchange for a donation. I found about a dozen bottles from craft breweries on the top of the pile. They said I could just take them, but I gave them a $5 donation (both my kids had great experiences with the band when they were in HS). I don't bottle too much, but it was enough to top up my stock for bringing six packs places were I don't expect to get the bottles back.
I don't bottle much anymore, but try to keep at least a dozen on hand. If the labels don't come off easy, then they go straight to the recycling bin and replaced with something easier to remove.
Put 2 cases of bottles in dish washer for bottling on Sunday and 2oz of Cluster in fermenter to dry hop my Heritage IPA.
Nuts to the weather! It’s officially dark beer season now.
Here’s a picture of the first runnings of this morning’s dark mild.
Here’s a picture of the first runnings of this morning’s dark mild.
Wrote a recipe for a single hop Moutere session hazy written specifically to trial WHC Sweet Release, a dry yeast that combines mid-60s attenuation with lots of biotransformation potential.
Targeting 5.4% and an FG around 1.019 in the hope that it'll give similar mouth feel to one of my bigger single hop hazies but less chances of a hangover if I sink five pints of it.
Targeting 5.4% and an FG around 1.019 in the hope that it'll give similar mouth feel to one of my bigger single hop hazies but less chances of a hangover if I sink five pints of it.
50 bottles of my Hops Kitchen Heritage IPA. Finished @ 1.011 w/ 6.8% about. Looking forward to checking again in 10-14 days when carbonated.
Added 6 ounces of pulverized Citra pellets to each of a pair of soft-crashed carboys to let the goodness slowly rain down so I can leave the crashed yeast undisturbed...
Four hours later...
Cheers!
Four hours later...
Cheers!
My red ale kicked last week so I brewed a new batch to replace it Tuesday. It should be ready to transfer to a keg tomorrow so today I cleaned the keg the last red was in so I can put the new one in it.
That ten gallons of all-Citra hazy (above) is cold-crashing and needs to get kegged tomorrow. But I was short a keg, so I drained my least full keg on tap (Ballantine IPA with just 3 pours remaining) into a uKeg, then fired up the Mark II and cleaned, sanitized, pressure-checked that keg, then did a Star San purge on it. Then I installed a fresh keg of the same batch of Ballantine IPA and gave it a quick taste and carbonation check (two thumbs up!)
After that I staged everything needed for kegging in the morning because as soon as that's done I'm heading up to our place in NH for a few days of fishing...
Cheers!
After that I staged everything needed for kegging in the morning because as soon as that's done I'm heading up to our place in NH for a few days of fishing...
Cheers!
I'm not familiar with pulverizing pellets(?) for post-crash fermenter dry hopping. It looks like you're using the cold and fast method and the pulverization allows the hops to quickly drop while better giving up the goods? Do I have that right? If memory serves, you use a weighted filter bag on your racking cane to protect your poppets, right?
I'm impressed and thinking about how to implement this technique on my rig.
Actually, I'm looking for a really slow drop of the hops 
Yes, at the crux of it all is Scott Janish's work on short and cool dry hopping. I do a "soft crash" to 50°F over two days under light (~0.4 psi) CO2 pressure to avoid any O2 suckage, then add the hops for two days, then cold crash to 36°F (again under CO2) for two days, before kegging. But as I am dealing with carboys there are limitations I'm trying to work around - principally, that I can't drop the yeast after the soft crash as is recommended.
In the past I have noticed pellets dropped into cold beer go straight to the bottom and remain largely intact even after two days - especially the really dense, hard pellets one comes across on occasion. Before doing the short and cool thing I would have swirled the carboys to break those pellets up, but now I don't want to swirl the crashed yeast back into suspension. By pouring in powdered pellets, the mass pretty much sits there atop the beer, and very slowly rains down. It takes a few hours in fact for the last to drop. I think that's maximizing the extract under the circumstances vs the alternative, and there's no need to disturb the yeast cake.
The downside is the potential O2 exposure, so I try to work quickly, and once the pellet powder is in I blow out the carboy headspace with CO2 for awhile to at least bring the O2 content down. When I keg two days later I add some ascorbic acid to each keg and that seems to catch things before they cause problems. I've mentioned often I can keep a super hazy IPA in the keg nice and light for at least five months which is pretty much the worst case duration for anything around here...
Cheers!
Yes, at the crux of it all is Scott Janish's work on short and cool dry hopping. I do a "soft crash" to 50°F over two days under light (~0.4 psi) CO2 pressure to avoid any O2 suckage, then add the hops for two days, then cold crash to 36°F (again under CO2) for two days, before kegging. But as I am dealing with carboys there are limitations I'm trying to work around - principally, that I can't drop the yeast after the soft crash as is recommended.
In the past I have noticed pellets dropped into cold beer go straight to the bottom and remain largely intact even after two days - especially the really dense, hard pellets one comes across on occasion. Before doing the short and cool thing I would have swirled the carboys to break those pellets up, but now I don't want to swirl the crashed yeast back into suspension. By pouring in powdered pellets, the mass pretty much sits there atop the beer, and very slowly rains down. It takes a few hours in fact for the last to drop. I think that's maximizing the extract under the circumstances vs the alternative, and there's no need to disturb the yeast cake.
The downside is the potential O2 exposure, so I try to work quickly, and once the pellet powder is in I blow out the carboy headspace with CO2 for awhile to at least bring the O2 content down. When I keg two days later I add some ascorbic acid to each keg and that seems to catch things before they cause problems. I've mentioned often I can keep a super hazy IPA in the keg nice and light for at least five months which is pretty much the worst case duration for anything around here...
Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time and providing such a clear answer. I appreciate it!Actually, I'm looking for a really slow drop of the hops
Yes, at the crux of it all is Scott Janish's work on short and cool dry hopping. I do a "soft crash" to 50°F over two days under light (~0.4 psi) CO2 pressure to avoid any O2 suckage, then add the hops for two days, then cold crash to 36°F (again under CO2) for two days, before kegging. But as I am dealing with carboys there are limitations I'm trying to work around - principally, that I can't drop the yeast after the soft crash as is recommended.
In the past I have noticed pellets dropped into cold beer go straight to the bottom and remain largely intact even after two days - especially the really dense, hard pellets one comes across on occasion. Before doing the short and cool thing I would have swirled the carboys to break those pellets up, but now I don't want to swirl the crashed yeast back into suspension. By pouring in powdered pellets, the mass pretty much sits there atop the beer, and very slowly rains down. It takes a few hours in fact for the last to drop. I think that's maximizing the extract under the circumstances vs the alternative, and there's no need to disturb the yeast cake.
The downside is the potential O2 exposure, so I try to work quickly, and once the pellet powder is in I blow out the carboy headspace with CO2 for awhile to at least bring the O2 content down. When I keg two days later I add some ascorbic acid to each keg and that seems to catch things before they cause problems. I've mentioned often I can keep a super hazy IPA in the keg nice and light for at least five months which is pretty much the worst case duration for anything around here...
Cheers!
Always my pleasure to share - even if I may be leading us all off a cliff 
Cheers!
Cheers!
I'm going to try the pulverising approach on this Brut IPA which is getting an 8oz dry hop of Luminosa, Strata and Tango at the weekend.
That said I seem to have the opposite issue more frequently at the moment, with my hop pellets sitting on top of the fermenter and not dropping even after ~3 days. Especially if I've been naturally carbonating during fermentation by having a spunding valve set to 10psi.
That said I seem to have the opposite issue more frequently at the moment, with my hop pellets sitting on top of the fermenter and not dropping even after ~3 days. Especially if I've been naturally carbonating during fermentation by having a spunding valve set to 10psi.
Kegging done, getting ready to head north...
Cheers!
Cheers!
Not a lot just transferred 15 litres of my Red IPA from the primary to the secondary fermenter/bottling bucket. Away for the weekend so will cold crash and bottle on Monday.
Bottled my Centennial blonde ale this morning. Yielded 52 12oz long necks. OG was 1.052, FG 1.010.
flipster
utility beer research kitchen
Today I read six weeks of missed posts in this thread, to pick up some inspiration.
Had a hard time for the last couple of weeks and not much drive to look into the web. At least I had every now and then a little peek into the skyline game thread for a little distraction. But I didn't feel like I could follow the stories.
Within the last weeks I brewed two 5ltr batches of beer, a Juicy Ale dryhopped with Nectaron hops and another batch of traditional Munich Helles. This time I changed the recipe and left out the CaraPils malts.
Last week I visited my dad, and we did the long planned beer tasting: I brewed two variants of a Hacker Pschorr Munich Hell clones (decoction and infusion) in April that needed a comparison, not just by myself. I already posted my thoughts and the recipes in this post of my introduction thread. Also on the table: the original from Hacker.
There is indeed a difference between my versions and the original. But I'm still very happy with the results (so was my dad) and both of them are, what I'd call a typical regional lager and they could definitely compare with the ones of "the big players" around here.
Also, after the apples ripened in our garden, we pressed fresh juice for cider two weeks ago, which is now waiting to be bottled. Now it's just unclear whether I'll get pears tomorrow so I can use the yeast cake straight away, or whether I'll just harvest the yeast.
If there are no pears tomorrow, I'll make another batch of a juicy ale this time with Kolibri hops, I just ran the recipe through the calculator.
And of course there were some occasions to have a beer while hiking:
Hiking along the Alz river ("Bräu im Moos" Helles)
Hiking up Mount Hochgründeck ("Stiegl Bräu" Helles)
Hiking up Mount Spitzstein (self made California Common)
cider making:
Had a hard time for the last couple of weeks and not much drive to look into the web. At least I had every now and then a little peek into the skyline game thread for a little distraction. But I didn't feel like I could follow the stories.
Within the last weeks I brewed two 5ltr batches of beer, a Juicy Ale dryhopped with Nectaron hops and another batch of traditional Munich Helles. This time I changed the recipe and left out the CaraPils malts.
Last week I visited my dad, and we did the long planned beer tasting: I brewed two variants of a Hacker Pschorr Munich Hell clones (decoction and infusion) in April that needed a comparison, not just by myself. I already posted my thoughts and the recipes in this post of my introduction thread. Also on the table: the original from Hacker.
There is indeed a difference between my versions and the original. But I'm still very happy with the results (so was my dad) and both of them are, what I'd call a typical regional lager and they could definitely compare with the ones of "the big players" around here.
Also, after the apples ripened in our garden, we pressed fresh juice for cider two weeks ago, which is now waiting to be bottled. Now it's just unclear whether I'll get pears tomorrow so I can use the yeast cake straight away, or whether I'll just harvest the yeast.
If there are no pears tomorrow, I'll make another batch of a juicy ale this time with Kolibri hops, I just ran the recipe through the calculator.
And of course there were some occasions to have a beer while hiking:
cider making:
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flipster
utility beer research kitchen
Let me know, how this turns out. Still looking for the perfect Summer Ale Clone and had an experiment with Orange peel, but that was definitely way to much of it (3g/l).
Don't you get a water analysis protocol from your waterworks on request? We just have one water supply ... so I'm actually brewing with toilet water (just definitely out of the tap, not out of the bowl...)
Not even during the Oktoberfest season? I mean, I wouldn't buy them here from Aldi, but I know they do sell them and that aren't bad at all.
Last evening I finally got around to transferring my new Red Ale to a keg that was brewed 11 days earlier. This one is also a recipe that I originally brewed over 30 yrs ago. This beer taste great I do not know why it took me so long to brew it again. The reds I have been brewing are good but this one is better IMO. today's task is to collect the yeast and clean that fermenter. And my Sixtel of Idyll Hounds Yellow Fly IPA kicked so I'll be cleaning that keg for use until I return it to the brewery.
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