What did i buy for $48.50!

[artyusmc]

haven't been around for awhile. i bought this kit at local bar/brewery/Lhbs
ask for esb and i got this for $48.50, i wanted to brew while on vacation. I feel like i was taken for a ride and not even given a reach around. I dont mine someone making a profit but no priming sugar or caps. Plus i asked for instrucutions the guy said oh yes their in the bag. At home an hour latter no instructions, next time i'll just order from onlime from austin or morebeer. As i step off the soap box, i'm looking for advice to my next batch. I know RDWHAHB

1. How do i make a yeast starter with LME and liquid yeast?
2. crush grains with rolling pin correct?
3. If someone could post basic instructions it be appreciated.
4. i intend to let this sit in primary for four to five weeks with hops or any suggestions again appreciated.

2 lbs grain unmilled
liquid yeast britsh ale wlp005 past best before date
2 oz glacier hops
2 oz tehnang hops
6.6 lbs of lme briess golden lite

sorry long post

 

[Yuri_Rage]

The price is nearly identical at Austin Homebrew using the cheapest shipping option. Add caps and priming sugar, and it becomes slightly more expensive to order online. However, you'd likely get exactly what you ordered, and the yeast would almost certainly be fresher. Take the yeast back for a fresher vial (or a refund), and see if the manager will get you the missing priming sugar and caps. If you're still disappointed, it's time to find a new supplier.

As for your questions:

1. Search yeast starter on the forum.
2. The rolling pin will work, but it won't be fun. Make sure they're all cracked but not turned to powder. Next time order the specialty grain pre-milled.
3. How to Brew - By John Palmer is a free, easy read.
4. 4 weeks in the primary is fine. No dry hops are necessary for the style.

 

[artyusmc]

thanks for quick reply yuri,
i was a litttle upset (more at myself for not checking or asking the right questions). I did ask about milled grains and the guy at the counter says they don't do it. The place is more bar brewery than supply store. Should have remembered john palmer and i think i'll try making a starter will add to knowledge and experince. The only reason i'd dry hop is i dont have to take them out i'm historically lazy.

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

First off, it sounds like your lhbs sells some lowsy kits. I would steer clear of them from now on. Second, take the yeast back if it's past date. The owner shouldn't have a problem replacing it, and if he does, take your business elsewhere.

To answer your questions....

1. I would use dry yeast to make your starter. It's easier because you can't really seal a can very well when you only use part of it. I usually add around 6oz. of DME to 2quarts of water. Bring it to a boil and boil for 15 minutes. Cool to 70 degrees and pitch yeast. Let it sit for a couple days in a sealed and sanitized container (I use an erlenmeyer flask with aluminum foil on top) then pitch into your full batch of wort.

2. You can crush your grains with a rolling pin, but I find it takes a lot of work and you can't really get the best crush. I would just take them back to the lhbs and ask them to crush them for you.

4. Four weeks in primary is pushing it. If you intend on letting it sit this long, you might be better off letting the primary fermentation finish, then transfer it to a secondary so you get it off the trub. Also, I don't like to leave hops in the fermenter that long as I find it gives the beer some odd grassy flavors, but that's completely up to you.

As for your instructions... I'll see if I can give you a basic set.

I'm not sure how big of a boil pot you're using, so I'll just go with boiling 3 gallons. If you have a bigger pot, great. Boil the most you can.

You're going to bring 3 gallons of water to 155 degrees. Steep your crushed grains in the water for around 30 minutes. Bring the water to a boil after the 30 minutes is up and remove the grain bag right before it boils. As soon as you get to a boil, add your extract. Stir constantly until the water starts to boil again.

At this point you'll add your glacier hops and start a timer for 60 minutes. Stir every 5-10 minutes. I'm not sure I've heard of tehnang hops, but they may be labeled wrong. I believe it's spelled tettnanger. I could be wrong. Eitherway, add them when there's 10 minutes left in your boil. After the 60 minute boil, cool to 70 degrees and pitch yeast. Stir well to oxygenate and then ferment.

I'm leaving out all of the sanitation of course, but I'm sure you already know about that.

Now, this is just what I would do with the recipe, but it may not be what was intended by your brew shop. I would suggest calling them and asking them to mail their instructions to you. Otherwise you could end up making a completely different beer. Also, I haven't done extract in awhile, so I may not have hit every point. I'm sure someone else will followup.

 

[brian_g]

1. I would use dry yeast to make your starter. It's easier because you can't really seal a can very well when you only use part of it.

I think you meant dry malt, not dry yeast.

 

[boydak]

4. Four weeks in primary is pushing it. If you intend on letting it sit this long, you might be better off letting the primary fermentation finish, then transfer it to a secondary so you get it off the trub. Also, I don't like to leave hops in the fermenter that long as I find it gives the beer some odd grassy flavors, but that's completely up to you.

I STRONGLY disagree. I leave mine in the primary 3 weeks as an average and get some better, clearer beer than when I used the secondary. 4 weeks will be fine. Some folks leave it way longer than that.

 

[sethful]

+1 for boydak.
A little extra time in the fermentation carboys never did too much harm.

 

[Homercidal]

If this place is only place around for getting supplies, I'd consider buying a corona mill off ebay. That way you can mill your own grains in the future, and not have to worry about it.

If they won't exchange the yeast, then give it a shot using DME for a starter. I'll bet that the they will take off if they haven't been abused by high temps.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

The autolysis argument for racking beer prior to 3 weeks in the primary is somewhat old and perhaps outdated advice based on assumptions rather than real data. Many of us have had excellent experiences leaving beer in the primary for over 4 weeks, and even up to 6-8 weeks. Don't be in a hurry to mess with your beer. RDWHAHB.

 

[beerjunky828]

I would take a meat pounder (use the flat side) and put the grains in a hefty gallon ziplock. 1lb per 1 gallon bag. And then just pound the grains for at least a few minutes. I have found that way to be the easiest and you don't lose any grains. I have also heard to take a newspaper and place the grains in between the pages and take a wine bottle to crush them.

 

[Thumper]

The autolysis argument for racking beer prior to 3 weeks in the primary is somewhat old and perhaps outdated advice based on assumptions rather than real data. Many of us have had excellent experiences leaving beer in the primary for over 4 weeks, and even up to 6-8 weeks. Don't be in a hurry to mess with your beer. RDWHAHB.

This is some of the best advice out there. I completly agree and I leave every batch in primary at least 4 weeks. It is a much better beer if it is not rushed.

 

[jaynik]

order from annapolis home brew. flat rate shipping and the kits come with everything you need.

 

[artyusmc]

some good points thanks everyone

sealing LME can is an issue. i thought i would use sranwrap and placed in a ziplock bag for three days before brew day

 

[artyusmc]

Getting ready to brew just need a little help with beersmith.
Ran ingredents in beersmith, this is the results;
Est Original Gravity: 1.049 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.76 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.65 %
Bitterness: 74.5 IBU Calories: 43 cal/pint
Est Color: 9.4 SRM

now the question is do i go by beersmith estimate or the measured numbers?

 

[cellardoor]

How did you get the original gravity of only 1.010? Given that this is an extract batch that number is impossible. It most likely came from improper mixing of the extract to the top off water or something. For an extract batch it doesn't hurt using the estimated original gravity since the vast majority of the sugars are a fixed amount in the extract.

 

[artyusmc]

cellardoor
I'm new to beersmith and lhbs did not include directions and i ask for an ESB and just bought the LME, hops and malt without asking questions. the orginal gravity number was my big concern as well as the Actual Alcohol by Vol: of 0.65 %.

so most likely i'll end up in range of the est numbers?

 

[cellardoor]

Since you are using extract your fermentables are a fixed number that will not change. The 2lb steeping grains you listed earlier will most likely add some unfermentable sugars which will raise the original gravity even further.

To answer your question I would go with Beersmith's estimated original gravity but after fermentation make sure to measure with a hydrometer the final gravity. Many things can factor into the final gravity I would never trust an estimate from Beersmith for that answer. It is mostly there as a guide to where the beer 'should' end up. By all means don't bottle until you have gravity numbers stable for several days in a row though otherwise you run the risk of bottle bombs.

 

[cellardoor]

Ok I just realized something about the Beersmith program itself that is probably confusing you. Where it is listed as "Measured Original Gravity" and "Measured Final Gravity" and list 1.010 and 1.005 are the default values the software uses and doesn't take into account anything in the recipe. Those are text boxes that you have to actually input the gravity reading you measure using the hydrometer and it will calculate the ABV%.

Hope that helps you understand what was confusing you.

 

[artyusmc]

Since you are using extract your fermentables are a fixed number that will not change. The 2lb steeping grains you listed earlier will most likely add some unfermentable sugars which will raise the original gravity even further.

To answer your question I would go with Beersmith's estimated original gravity but after fermentation make sure to measure with a hydrometer the final gravity. Many things can factor into the final gravity I would never trust an estimate from Beersmith for that answer. It is mostly there as a guide to where the beer 'should' end up. By all means don't bottle until you have gravity numbers stable for several days in a row though otherwise you run the risk of bottle bombs.

thaks for the reassurances, (check FG prior to bottling, noted). i think sunday might be a brew day. :rockin:

 

[artyusmc]

okay making yeast starter tonight and cracking grains

question which hops first at what time in the boil? anyone ?

 

[cellardoor]

question which hops first at what time in the boil? anyone ?

If the instructions don't say which are the aroma or bittering hops I would guess the Glacier are the bittering and the Tettnang are the aroma based on thier properties. They are both low AA% aroma hops but glacier is a cleaner bittering hop which to me would be better in this beer. Put the Glacier in with 60 minutes left in the boil. I'd split the Tettnang and put 1oz. @ 20 min. and 1oz. @ 5 minutes left in the boil for both flavor and aroma.

 

[artyusmc]

thank you for the tip

like i said earlier making my first yeast starter with four month old liquid yeast ( by that i mean past the date on the vial hs been kept in frig so it should work). if not i have a back up of dry yeast

 

[artyusmc]

brewed today og at 1.044 at about 75 degrees should have been about 1.047 based on the amount of lme and 5 gallons. time to wait