Weldless Triclover Element?

[KPSquared]

Don't overdo the solder. Heat evenly. Make sure it's clean. Don't be afraid of the flux. It's a pretty basic task.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Think of your kettle as a giant heat sink. So make sure you get it hot before you start concentrating on the fitting. It will take longer to do that than you think, but very important for a nice fillet and to keep from scorching the liquid flux too fast.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Anybody put a PowerCON or similar connector on one of Bobby's enclosures? I was thinking of using one for a 120V 2000w element in the weldless model. I know Bobby did a while back just interested if someone has tried it recently.

 

[flatulentfox]

Bobby,

I apologize if this has been answered elsewhere, but when do you expect to have the 2" solder kits back in stock?

Thanks.

 

[Bobby_M]

You mean the enclosures with the 2" TC flange welded on? Tomorrow or the next day.

 

[flatulentfox]

The kit with the radiused solder on 2" TC fitting.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2etc4s.htm

 

[Bobby_M]

I have them in stock now. The bigger question is why not go with the 1.5" if you're going to solder something on anyway? There is no advantage to going with the 2" version as the 1.5" works for all applications that I'm aware of.

Really the only reason for the 2" ETC is for pots that already have a 2" flange.

 

[flatulentfox]

I was just thinking that if 2" was available for essentially the same price that it would be easier to maneuver wavy elements in and out. The only downside I see is that the element would be 1/4 inch higher, all else equal.

Also, i was considering a 2" rims tube, so hardware interchangeability would be nice. However now I am leaning towards your 1.5" rims tube, so perhaps ill go with 1.5" instead.

 

[KPSquared]

There's no issues moving the wavy element through the 1.5"... So that reason is a non starter. But...if you went 2" rims and element, you have sanke compatible hardware as well...so there's that.

 

[flatulentfox]

Good to know that there's no issue with wavy elements in the 1.5 inch TC.

My system actually uses inverted kegs with the bottom cut out and center drains utilizing the sankey connection.

 

[augiedoggy]

Good to know that there's no issue with wavy elements in the 1.5 inch TC.

My system actually uses inverted kegs with the bottom cut out and center drains utilizing the sankey connection.

No issues using Bobby M's 1.5 tc fittings but from what another member was saying a couple days ago in one of the recent scorching threads below. He cant use a ripple element because it wont fit through his welded on 1.5 tc fitting...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/scorched-element-510514/index2.html

 

[passedpawn]

There's no issues moving the wavy element through the 1.5"... So that reason is a non starter. But...if you went 2" rims and element, you have sanke compatible hardware as well...so there's that.

I've got a 2" ferrule welded on my keggles and it was still tight getting the ripple element through them.

I don't doubt that it can be done with the 1.5", but 2" would certainly be easier.

 

[KPSquared]

Hmm... Mine slides in and out with no problem. Maybe I'm just better at it... It takes practice. Don't expect perfection your first time.

 

[theck]

Before clean up... pretty cold outside so my hands jumped a bit but it worked out fine just will need a little extra TLC. The product is GREAT, I'd love to add 1 more for a thermometer (maybe a slightglass with tee too?). BTW, the solder in the kit is super super easy to melt compared to the video Bobby has, I barely had to put my torch on there before it started to flow well.

 

[theck]

How are people getting that burnt flux off? It's quite the pain... I've had it soaking in hot hot water and scrubbed but just not giving.

 

[KPSquared]

Stainless wire wheel. Just make sure it's stainless or it'll rust your kettle.

 

[KPSquared]

Also helps to wipe what you can of while it's still hot with a damp rag. Probably a little late for that...

 

[theck]

Also helps to wipe what you can of while it's still hot with a damp rag. Probably a little late for that...

Ya I did a little but didn't want to disturb the fitting. I'll try a wheel, anyone know if the stainless HF wheels are really stainless:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-stainless-steel-wheel-and-brush-set-66129.html

 

[Bobby_M]

BTW, the solder in the kit is super super easy to melt compared to the video Bobby has, I barely had to put my torch on there before it started to flow well.

I don't remember exactly how long I put the flame on, but I do spend some time warming the surrounding areas of the pot so that it doesn't sink the heat too quickly leaving a cold joint. When I know I've done it right, I can remove the flame and easily feed solder into the joint for a good minute or so. If you put the flame directly on the flange, you can flow faster but you'll have to keep bringing the flame back in every 10 seconds.

Either way, if the joint is good, it's good. I just wanted to explain my reason for taking some time.

Cleaning up.. spirits on a rag for the goopy stuff, then some barkeepers friend. Finish with sewn cloth polishing wheel on a grinder or felt wheel on a dremel with appropriate polish compound for a "back to factory" finish on the pot.

 

[theck]

I don't remember exactly how long I put the flame on, but I do spend some time warming the surrounding areas of the pot so that it doesn't sink the heat too quickly leaving a cold joint. When I know I've done it right, I can remove the flame and easily feed solder into the joint for a good minute or so. If you put the flame directly on the flange, you can flow faster but you'll have to keep bringing the flame back in every 10 seconds.

Either way, if the joint is good, it's good. I just wanted to explain my reason for taking some time.

Cleaning up.. spirits on a rag for the goopy stuff, then some barkeepers friend. Finish with sewn cloth polishing wheel on a grinder or felt wheel on a dremel with appropriate polish compound for a "back to factory" finish on the pot.

Thanks, ya I spent some time warming up the pot a bit and then to the fitting on and off to the pot. Really not difficult at all and seems to hold really well. Waiting on a clamp so I can test it out though. I'll be adding a second at some point for sure. Thanks for a good product!

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

There's no issues moving the wavy element through the 1.5"... So that reason is a non starter. But...if you went 2" rims and element, you have sanke compatible hardware as well...so there's that.

KP which wavy element do you have? Seems like another has had issues getting a wavy element in this, and if I go this route, would like to get the right one that fits. thanks.

 

[KPSquared]

CAMCO 5500W ULWD. The same one everyone uses.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

CAMCO 5500W ULWD. The same one everyone uses.

Thanks.

 

[Browningbuck]

i posted this up and thought it was funny no one was interested in an ACTUAL WELDLESS system?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2-triclamp-weldless-bulkheads-blichmann-511186/

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

i posted this up and thought it was funny no one was interested in an ACTUAL WELDLESS system?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2-triclamp-weldless-bulkheads-blichmann-511186/

Thanks for posting this. I was looking at Bobby's kettle enclosures at brewhardware. Any plans for this type of weldless tc fitting Bobby?

 

[theck]

Think it's cool but the weld one is $20 (+ $14 for solder and wire if needed but you end up with a ton left over for other projects) and should never leak compared. I would love to do all welded fittings on my pots instead of the bulkheads personally but don't have the cash to do so.

 

[Browningbuck]

theck, i guess it depends on the application and the worth to value.

i chose these as i wanted a weldless set up(which this is currently the only one available off shelf). i also wanted a clean install. i had the tools to accomplish the task and had minimal risk of creating a poor product. To a lot of people that invest in an electric set up that is worth the extra $20.

i personally would pay the $20 to avoid the anxiety of soldering a fitting on a $500 kettle, even if the solder would have come out good. im a perfectionist and failure wasnt an option with these kettles.

 

[LandoLincoln]

theck, i guess it depends on the application and the worth to value.

i chose these as i wanted a weldless set up(which this is currently the only one available off shelf). i also wanted a clean install. i had the tools to accomplish the task and had minimal risk of creating a poor product. To a lot of people that invest in an electric set up that is worth the extra $20.

i personally would pay the $20 to avoid the anxiety of soldering a fitting on a $500 kettle, even if the solder would have come out good. im a perfectionist and failure wasn't an option with these kettles.

Eh. Unlike welding, if you mess it up, you just heat it up again.

 

[theck]

The soldering IMO was the easy part. I am still missing with my weldless trying to get them right. If only there was a 1/2 npt spud that I could weld on that would work with a pickup I'd buy it. I am not so hip on the dimple method but might try it some time.

 

[KPSquared]

How does that weldless fitting deal with the contour of the pot? You'd think it would not seal well.