We don't have distilled water is this water any good ?
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Spundit
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That's good water for brewing. It will behave similar to distilled.
Advice on tweaking it will depend on what style you are making.
Advice on tweaking it will depend on what style you are making.
Thanks . mostly Ale . i see that PH 7.4 and many people advise to have 5.2 or something like that
0.33 liter bottles? So... you'd have to use like 90 bottles to brew a 5 gallon beer?
Usually that would lead to - what other options do you have? What about using an RO water filter for the water you do have?
Usually that would lead to - what other options do you have? What about using an RO water filter for the water you do have?
they also have 1L & 6L & 12L same chemistry
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btw, if I understand right, you should be less concerned about the pH of this water than the pH of your mash. Aside from cost, this water seems fine.
It’s when you add your grains to the water that the pH will change, and is the pH to care about.
Anions,Cations? is this lab water?
What is your tapwater like? Does it taste okay? If the water tastes good, you should be able to brew *something* with it with minimal tweaking. (the only thing I can brew with my water without adding a lot of acid is stout or porter, but those turn out pretty good. I can brew most anything if I add enough acid)
If your water contains a lot of iron, you might be stuck buying bottled water.
If your water contains a lot of iron, you might be stuck buying bottled water.
Zambezi Special
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I agree
I would use tap water if you can drink it. Maybe try get a report from the water-whatever-they-are-called suppliers, or get it analysed.
The pH of the water is inconsequential. 5.2 is the preferred mash pH and the addition of the grains to the water will change the pH, hopefully to near that 5.2. It will depend on the mineral combination of the water and the mix of grains too.
jerrylotto
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Is it well water or city water? If it's a municipal source there's probably chlorine or chloramines in there as a stabilization agent. You going to want to treat wot a Campden tablet (potassium or sodium metabisulfite) to reduce that to chlorde. If you have well water you're probably fine.
BrewnWKopperKat
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"Water chemistry" software may be able to help with determining water adjustments for a good mash and boil.
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Bad DNA
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Standard chemistry speak for the elemental or molecular components of dissolved salts. Anion (negatively-charged ion such as Chloride, Oxalate) or Cation = positively charged (Sodium, Calcium, Copper). Every source of water will have some dissolved salts. The relative amounts is what matters. Distillation normally removes nearly all of these - and only compounds with a lower boiling point would contaminate the product.
Bad DNA
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Get a cheap home water test kit. See if you have metals (copper and iron pipes leach cations (charged metal atoms) that can affect taste, well water may have metals like calcium or magnesium that hardens the water. If you have water drop stains on your glasses or soap scum buildup in your tub, you likely have hard water.
What have your batches with tap water turned out like? Were they good or at least passible?
What have your batches with tap water turned out like? Were they good or at least passible?
That is almost certainly RO water. It's a good starting place for brewing water. Do add a bit more ion content for brewing.
Quentin Nelson
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In his first book, BREWING BETTER BEER, Gordon Stone talks about acidifying ALL brewing water before anything else. He learned that from Sierra Nevada and I have been following the advice for years. If you don’t have VERY soft spring/well water, buy it by the gallon. It’s all very low in ions except maybe bicarbonate (which has minimal effect on brewing) Arrowhead, Crystal Spring, store brand should be fine. You may find the analysis on company web sites. Or send some to Ward Labs in Nebraska for their W-5A Brewer’s Test. They also sell a test kit. I live near a public artesian well with great soft water (tested by Wards)
Use phosphoric acid to bring room-temp water pH down to 5.5. Then I use about an equal & modest amount of gypsum & Calcium Chloride before mashing. Use an online calculator & you can also change chloride/sulphate ratio to favor hoppy or malty styles. Mash pH should drop a little into low 5s. I always get rapid & very thorough conversion in less than 30 minutes
Use phosphoric acid to bring room-temp water pH down to 5.5. Then I use about an equal & modest amount of gypsum & Calcium Chloride before mashing. Use an online calculator & you can also change chloride/sulphate ratio to favor hoppy or malty styles. Mash pH should drop a little into low 5s. I always get rapid & very thorough conversion in less than 30 minutes
