Washing Yeast vs Pitching Trub?

[mac_1103]

I simply have no words for why they would call it that.

Isn't it threads per inch or some such? Like you said it's just different terminology. It's just very unfortunate that two sets of words that sound like they should mean the same thing actually mean very different things.

 

[Broken Crow]

Isn't it threads per inch or some such? Like you said it's just different terminology. It's just very unfortunate that two sets of words that sound like they should mean the same thing actually mean very different things.

Are you old enough to remember buying multi-"Gigabyte" hard drives that didn't have the full 1024 KB/"GB"? Marketers rarely know what specs actually refer to.
For what it's worth; When I first made my keggle and filter, I gave it 60/40 that it would clog and my contingency plan was that I would get about a 1'x2' sheet of mesh and fold it accordian-pleat style and just set it on top of the diptube filter... never had to do that, but maybe someone with clogging issues would like to try it.

 

[mac_1103]

Are you old enough to remember buying multi-"Gigabyte" hard drives that didn't have the full 1024 KB/"GB"?

I'm old enough to remember 8" floppy disks that didn't have the full 244 kilobytes.

 

[Broken Crow]

I'm old enough to remember 8" floppy disks that didn't have the full 244 kilobytes.

You just made my day!!
Here's the last of my un-used sub-244kb 8"ers that I was about to fill before my brain was ripped up in 2014.... I was re-writing a C64 synthiszer program I'd made about 40 years ago to include MIDI becuase of some specific percussion sounds I'd had to sample in analog for inculsion in a short film.

 

[user 338926]

It’s not bad. I get borosilicate tubes from Amazon so I can reuse them. Just gotta not break them

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/maintaining-a-healthy-yeast-bank-long-term.678997/
Labvida 40pcs of Glass Serological Test Tubes with Black Bakelite Screw Caps Silicon Liners, Vol.15ml 16x150mm with Marking Area, Borosilicate Glass Material, Flat Bottom, LVH004 https://a.co/d/e3qMGxh

Ok, they're pretty cheap.

I was looking at the kit from MoreBeer which has a stir plate, 3 different flasks, and a bunch of those gizmos (not that many, 5 or 10...

Ironically enough, my Rip Van Winkle thread began as humor in seeing all the newfangled gizmos out there that we all have to have. That devolved into a debate about what's necessary to spend on and what isn't. And yet every thread I seem to participate in ends up with me buying something, if not 3 or 4 things...

It's in the keggle from the get-go.... After watching videos of the famous HopStopper (which, being in Canada, costs twice as much after shipping and duty) in action, I went with both a larger surface area as well as inserting a SS wire 'frame' to keep it from collapsing as well as to keep an underside curved above my keggle-bottom. Since I whirlpool, the centre of the top is always left with an impassable mound, but the underside and the outer corners remain far less impeded.
BTW, with an average hop-load for an English style, the size of my mound appears to my eye, larger than to surface area of the flat-bottomed HopStopper, which I can easily see clogging if it were the same gauge mesh.

I've never seen the "hop stopper" but here we are again with the R.V.W. thread theme... More crap to buy! Lol.

So that's in for an entire hour boil Interesting.

Isn't it threads per inch or some such? Like you said it's just different terminology. It's just very unfortunate that two sets of words that sound like they should mean the same thing actually mean very different things.

I see that same tube on Morebeer and they avoid spec'ing a size altogether, other than to say it's 12 inches long. The funny part is, I would think if someone was going to spec the size, the least they could do was get it partly right. That thing is neither 300 mesh, nor 300 micron. And in fact, it's almost on an order of magnitude away from either one. LOL For it to be 300 micron, it needs 85 wires per inch. And to be 300 mesh, it needs well, 300 wires per inch. It's clearly neither.

I have a Mister Filter at home for my gas lawn toys. They're similar with a fine plastic filter mesh in them. The premise of that at either 5 or 50 Micron (even the manufacturer doesn't seem to know for sure which if you read the comments) is that molecules of gas or oil/ diesel, etc, are small. Molecules of water are larger. Fuel will pass through it but water will not. Now, when you use it, gas goes through like there's no filter there. As fast as you can pour it in. Water won't pass. truly amazing. You could put gas and water in the blender and dump it in and instantly you'll have gas below and water above. I'd never seen anything like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF...t=&hvlocphy=9006891&hvtargid=pla-304695177827

 

[user 338926]

You just made my day!!
Here's the last of my un-used sub-244kb 8"ers that I was about to fill before my brain was ripped up in 2014.... I was re-writing a C64 synthiszer program I'd made about 40 years ago to include MIDI becuase of some specific percussion sounds I'd had to sample in analog for inculsion in a short film.

My first PC was a Radio Shack Model III and before it was done, it had TWO 5-1/4" floppy drives, the first of which as I recall cost $1400...

I still have it...

 

[mac_1103]

Fuel will pass through it but water will not. Now, when you use it, gas goes through like there's no filter there. As fast as you can pour it in. Water won't pass. truly amazing. You could put gas and water in the blender and dump it in and instantly you'll have gas below and water above. I'd never seen anything like it.

OK now that I might actually have to buy.

 

[user 338926]

OK now that I might actually have to buy.

 

[beren]

I don't know that I want a product for diesel used with my food...

 

[beren]

You just made my day!!
Here's the last of my un-used sub-244kb 8"ers that I was about to fill before my brain was ripped up in 2014.... I was re-writing a C64 synthiszer program I'd made about 40 years ago to include MIDI becuase of some specific percussion sounds I'd had to sample in analog for inculsion in a short film.

You should check out The Coriolis Effect – Ben Jordan and Bil Herd Talk Tech the discord has lots of ppl doing commodore stuff, including Bill Herd ;-)

 

[user 338926]

I don't know that I want a product for diesel used with my food...

Something that uses diesel brought all of your ingredients to you. Just saying.

 

[beren]

Something that uses diesel brought all of your ingredients to you. Just saying.

Yeah, my truck. Doesn’t mean I wanna suck it’s tailpipe

 

[jerrylotto]

What you need is a Buchner filter, and a big vacuum flask.

 

[user 338926]

Even better deal on two (assuming that 400 works).

Ok Mac,

I'm using the 400 micron filter right now. I kept only about 2 to 3 quarts of the dregs in the kettle and ran that into my filter and bucket. Of course immediately it sounded like everything would run right through but that stopped as you would have guessed. I have a picture here that was about 5 minutes after I started and then the next picture is 28 minutes later. Easily it has a few hours to go. I can hear it dripping, but it is in no hurry. It is absolutely much more clear underneath in the bucket. So the 400 Micron is plenty small enough. And since they're a little bit better deal getting two, that's great.

If anyone is wondering why this is so ugly, this is a double decoction mash that really turned into a quadruple decoction because of the trouble I had raising the mash temperature with the grist. Doing a 10 gallon batch with an 18 lb grain bill, there's really not enough grist to heat the mash up between the steps. Even putting it in twice, I still couldn't make it from 143.5 up to 158, I only made it to 156. I threw in the towel and said that's good enough

 

[user 338926]

So I gave it about an hour and a half and figured that was it. It's getting late and I do not want that wort sitting overnight. It filtered almost exactly a gallon and left me with something between 1 to 2 quarts of liquid remaining in the bucket filter. Down at the filter mesh, it was thick enough you could scoop it up with a spoon and feel where there was silt and where there wasn't. But it also had a layer of liquid laying on top that you could have almost poured off if you didn't mind a bunch of Gunk going with it. I decided to call it a day and throw that away. The gallon in the bucket looked very nice and though it did have some silt on the bottom of the bucket, it wasn't very much. I poured the whole thing into the fermenter.

The filter clean up was super easy. Basically just rinsing it got it 99% clean. I expected it to have stuff visibly caught in it but that was not the case. Not even a little bit.

I'm pretty sure the 100 or 200 micron would work equally well and of course would keep more solids out. No matter what you use, it won't be long before it will clog due to the silt that's in it. From there I don't think it matters what filter it is . At first a little bit of liquid will run through and a little bit of solids will pass. I would guess and say I took out 95% of all the solids from the kettle.

Thanks to @odie for the tip on the filters!

 

[IslandLizard]

[...] and left me with something between 1 to 2 quarts of liquid remaining in the bucket filter.

You could save the liquid (trubby wort) lying on top by pouring it into sanitized temporary (holding) container leaving most of the bottom trub behind. Dump, rinse out, and resanitize the bucket filter, then resume straining the rest.

From a 5 gallon (21 liter) batch I usually save out about 2-3 liters (1/2 - 3/4 gallon) of trubby wort from the bottom of the kettle. That's even with having all my kettle hops bagged. I strain the trubby wort through a large, sanitized, fine-mesh "hop bag" placed into a large funnel with a large dinner spoon, bulging-side up, stuck between the bag and the bottom of the funnel to speed up draining.

The funnel is placed on top of a gallon container to collect the wort. It could take about an hour to collect 1 liter, a few hours or even overnight to get the rest. In total I collect about 2-3 liters of wort.

Although kept quite sanitary, handled and covered as such, I usually heat the collected wort to 160-170F and leave it there for 5-10 minutes to re-pasteurize. Then chill in the sink with water.

The saved out, re-pasteurized wort is usually added to the batch a few hours later or the next day. But sometimes it gets used for other purposes.

 

[jambop]

I have not read through the whole thread as it is long but , and I do not know if it has been mentioned, if you want to reuse the yeast without the trub wash the trub and yeast . Save the yeast and then as a final wash use phosphoric acid to ensure there is no contamination. Doing this you will remove trub and contaminants from the previous brew but there should be no issues with any infection risks.

 

[user 338926]

IslandLizard, what I'm doing now is probably my limit. I think I'm already past the point of diminishing returns.

Jambop, I need to find instructions on this specifically. It was mentioned above that what I was doing was rinsing not washing. No acid used. If it ends up being a big hassle, I'll continue what I'm doing because it does work as long as I'm not using a yeast that came out of some strange brew.

 

[IslandLizard]

IslandLizard, what I'm doing now is probably my limit. I think I'm already past the point of diminishing returns.

Certainly a frame of reference to keep in mind.

 

[jerrylotto]

I use a 400 mesh bag inverted and looped over the top edge of the bucket. The bottom of the bag is about an inch off the bottom of the bucket, and it has a full three-dimensional surface to filter through. I hold the bag in place with a lid that has a hole for a bubbler which I leave open. 5 gallons drains through to the fermenter quickly and efficiently every time. Wearing gloves I can even take the bag and spin it to strain more Ward out of the tub/hop matter.

 

[odie]

So I gave it about an hour and a half and figured that was it. It's getting late and I do not want that wort sitting overnight.

Mine usually all drains thru within an hour. No wort wasted. Mine is 200 micron or less. at least twice as tight as yours.

How long did you let the kettle sit undisturbed before you opened the drain spigot?

And very important...how is your spigot set up? Is it a couple inches off the bottom? If you have a dip tube you need to get rid of that that. If you open the spigot too much, there is the chance that the velocity will start to pull up the debris that has fallen below the spigot.

Try it a few times and you will see what happens and how to make improvements.

If the screen starts to clog up too soon, then you didn't let the kettle sit quiet long enough. Just shut the spigot and let it drip thru, rinse the strainer and start over after letting the kettle sit a bit longer.

You do have a lid on the kettle? So don't worry about wild yeasties or whatever getting in.

And you should place a lid over the strainer while it's sitting and dripping. It will be fine like that for hours or overnight.

I use one of these for overnight filtering...3.5 gal bucket that I can put in my refrigerator and watch thru the translucent plastic. They are only a few dollars normally in the store. Not sure why online price is so high. But the short bucket I can get in my garage fridge.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/LEAKTITE-3GLWMN-3-1-2-Gallon-Watermelo-Pail-Multi/46651160?from=/search

 

[user 338926]

I let it sit probably 1.5 hours before starting to move things. Kettle I used has no valve, I siphon from it to the FV. It picked up basically 0 gunk in that process. I"m able to start high and move down as the inlet (which faces up) is taking clear wort off the top of the remainder. When it got low enough, that stuff got dumped into the bucket filter. Yes, lids were on everything as much as was possible. Obviously I have to open them to move stuff around. But that's no different than normal.

The amount that I didn't catch is WELL within what I would consider acceptable. It was nothing. I am not buying any finer filter, that's for sure. Point taken though on doing smaller amounts and cleaning the filter between. That makes sense. Rinse, re-sanitize and restart. I just dumped the kettle into it and put it all in there. It was essentially stopped up in a matter of seconds. (and I expected that).

After most of the kettle contents are gone, what makes more sense is to tilt the kettle onto a 45 deg angle, get the worst of the gunk to simply fall, then pour off only the clearER stuff from the top and filter that, then dump the kettle down the drain. That's what I'll do next batch.

No question about it, I've got a new process to add. I like this idea and thanks again for the tip.

And, this falls in line well with my Rip Van Winkle thread. Seems everywhere I interact on this forum ends up with me buying some gadget and putting more money into this "money saving" hobby! LOL.