Want to stop buying bottled water for brewing

[heckofagator]

First, how can you entertain the idea of brewing with something "better/other than" your straight tap water if you've never done it and don't know what it will do for your beer? Brew a small (1-2 gal) batch with your straight tap water, and if it tastes good to you, you need know/do nothing else. If it doesn't, THEN try something else.

I've only ever brewed with bottled water. I came here trying to figure out what I need to do to use my tap water. If the answer is simply nothing at all, then I guess I'm good. I'm not sure why you are confused about me coming here to ask that?

 

[McKnuckle]

My first 10 batches were "okay" but some had a bad, odd aftertaste - a bitter twang that was not hops. I resisted for a while, then had the water tested. It was the high alkalinity in my well water, not to mention very high chloride and sodium levels.

I switched to Poland Spring (which we get for drinking), I add brewing salts, and now all is golden.

Your tap water might be reasonable for beer and you taste nothing wrong, but you worry that the beer could be better... OR, as in my case, your tap water might produce truly crappy beer that you can taste. This is why opinions are all over the map on this subject. If you've never experienced bad tasting beer due to water, you just think it's all in the mind - another thing to obsess over. But for some of us, it's quite a real phenomenon.

 

[Rev2010]

Yes, but good tap water will still make good beer and keep away from delving into water chemistry.

Water chemistry is really not that difficult. If you can use an online calculator with a grain bill to determine how much lactic acid is needed to adjust mash pH then you can do the same with adjusting water.

That said, I think the single greatest improvement to my beers have come from water adjustments. Been planning on making a post but I have a couple more beers to make before I do. So far I'd say Campden tablets have made the greatest improvement as my wheat beers would always suffer from some aftertastes that appear to be from chlorophenols. Next would be lactic acid additions to adjust mash pH, then gypsum. All three together though so far have made a tremendous difference.


Rev.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I agree. I mess with my chemistry if and when I need to. I especially like to tweak the chemistry when making clones to more closely replicate the water quality of the region it is brewed. I was responding to the wants of the OP not to get into the science of water.

 

[z-bob]

My next water experiment will be to use half RO water from the Walmart dispenser, half tapwater, and add a little acid malt to the grist.

It doesn't have to be complicated. It can be extremely complicated if you like that kind of thing The OP obviously doesn't want complicated, but I think totally ignoring the chemistry is a mistake.

 

[Rev2010]

I came here trying to figure out what I need to do to use my tap water. If the answer is simply nothing at all, then I guess I'm good.

But you stated earlier, "yeah, I should have said I really don't want to get into the reports and science if I don't have to. What's the SECOND best way?". There is no second best way other than to buy RO water and build it up with water salts. Since you don't want to buy water just spend the not even $50 to get a water report done. I used Ward Labs kit and the total with included shipping was something like $44. You can go even cheaper if you provide your own sanitary water bottle and ship direct. Until then you just really won't know and a municipal water report really won't help all that much since they are mostly average based/maximum recorded amount based.


Rev.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

While its not super expensive, it's a bit of a trek up to the store to pick up 6-7g of spring water and the price does add up a bit. What is the best bet to stop having to do this?

One, I think, is to buy a carbon block filter that most of the brew supply places sell that hook up to your sink of outside hose. Next would be just to use tap water and get the campden tablets.

What's the best way to proceed?

I felt the exact same way when buying distilled water to brew with. The PITA of hoping they had enough bottles on the shelves to cover my brewing needs and then lugging those gallons home just wasn't worth it. I went and installed an RO filter instead and haven't looked back since. Of course in doing so I now get to adjust the RO water's pH and mineral additions before using it, but I enjoy that part of brewing too.

 

[heckofagator]

My next water experiment will be to use half RO water from the Walmart dispenser, half tapwater, and add a little acid malt to the grist.

It doesn't have to be complicated. It can be extremely complicated if you like that kind of thing The OP obviously doesn't want complicated, but I think totally ignoring the chemistry is a mistake.

Yeah, I suppose if its fairly simple and repeatable, I'm certainly not opposed to having to add an additive to my water on brew day. But I just didn't want to get into constantly having to test and adjust and that sort of thing. I just want to enjoy brew day and do my thing and I didn't want to turn it into a Saturday chemistry class.

 

[schematix]

There is a lot of really bad advice in this thread. Really bad. I've been slapping myself in the forehead as I've read through this.

The simplest KISS method I can offer is this. It involves the smallest amount of water chemistry and water knowledge.

1. Buy or make your own REVERSE OSMOSIS water. Spring or bottled water are not always RO. Spring water is frequently highly mineralized. RO water is mostly, but not completely devoid of minerals. It's also mostly devoid of most molecules other than water. This gives you a blank slate.

2A. Buy yourself brewing salts and a cheapo digital scale that can weigh down to at least 0.1g. You can get just about anywhere with Calcium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Epsom Salt, Calcium Sulfate and Sodium Bicarbonate. These are all easily available from either the grocery store or HBS. Learn a few simple water profile adjustments based on beer color or style. It's not much more difficult than playing with a few numbers until they total up correctly. Brun'Water is great for this, but it's maybe not the easiest tool if you want to keep your head below the sand.

OR

2B. Buy the pre-made salt mixes for particular beer styles. You'll pay more and won't have the adjustment, but this sounds like what you want.


Going to RO water was one of the best brewing changes I ever made. The beer tastes so much better.

Please don't take any advice from someone who says if the water tastes good it'll make good beer. They are only right if they are lucky. Make your own luck.

 

[Rev2010]

I just want to enjoy brew day and do my thing and I didn't want to turn it into a Saturday chemistry class.

It doesn't need to be. If you get a water report you can then simply use any of the online calcs like Brewer's Friend or the Brun' Water spreadsheet. Once you calculate for your beer using your water report and grain bill you'll be either on point or quite close to where you want to be. After that, if the beer comes out great then you can just repeat your prior water treatments.

Of course, municipal water still can change and vary, though unless the actual source changes to different supply I don't think the swings will be super drastic. But, as mentioned the only way to avoid that possibility of variance in water supply is to build your own water using RO.


Rev.

 

[blizz81]

I had planned to ask at the brew supply store next time I'm in.

It seems like there's already a lot of info here on the site you can read specific to homebrewers in your area.

 

[Gavin C]

I use this filter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

With this hose
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ME11FS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I brew outside so I just connect this when im ready to brew and I have filtered water without going to the store.

That will not result in RO water similar to store-bought.

It is minimally useful. If you want it to eliminate chlorine the contact time with the carbon filter required means a very slow flow rate. Would take hours to filter your brewing water effectively. Also it will do nothing to eliminate chloramines regardless of flow-rate.

The Camco filter is a useful macro-filter. That is all.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

That will not result in RO water similar to store-bought.

It is minimally useful. If you want it to eliminate chlorine the contact time with the carbon filter required means a very slow flow rate. Would take hours to filter your brewing water effectively. Also it will do nothing to eliminate chloramines regardless of flow-rate.

The Camco filter is a useful macro-filter. That is all.

That is very interesting to know, I guess I won't waste money buying any additional filters or replacement cartridges. My beers taste good so I don't see any problem using my tap water I guess.

 

[BrewerBrad82]

Perhaps I missed it, but is OP brewing extract or all-grain?? This will make quite a difference.

 

[heckofagator]

Perhaps I missed it, but is OP brewing extract or all-grain?? This will make quite a difference.

I didnt say, I didn't realize it mattered. But I'm doing BIAB/all-grain

 

[BrewerBrad82]

Ok, then you will want to know the specific water's mineral content and adjust the minerals accordingly to target certain residual alkalinities, calcium content and chloride/sulfate.

When brewing extract, the minerals are already in the extract so those beers should be brewed with RO/distilled.

 

[Gavin C]

target certain residual alkalinities,

This is a largely discredited approach. Targeting RA values is no longer recommended by the experts.

 

[BobOki]

Is there a site I can go to where I can see appropriate values of my water? I have a generic pdf with the values from my water company but have no clue what values I want to see. http://www.amwater.com/twq/greaterpgh_twq.pdf

 

[GHBWNY]

I've only ever brewed with bottled water. I came here trying to figure out what I need to do to use my tap water. If the answer is simply nothing at all, then I guess I'm good. I'm not sure why you are confused about me coming here to ask that?

If my "confusion" is over anything, it is why someone would arbitrarily treat their tap water without knowing if it's necessary.

 

[heckofagator]

If my "confusion" is over anything, it is why someone would arbitrarily treat their tap water without knowing if it's necessary.

Well, I've heard about campden, but never used them. I didn't know if this is a must do, or an option, or best practice, or what. Again, this is a forum for asking questions and getting opinions. I'm still just so confused why you have a problem with me asking questions

 

[Gavin C]

Well, I've heard about campden, but never used them.

If your using city water in most US cities chloramines are present. Campdens are a must do IMO.

At roughly 2c per brew it's a no brainer.

 

[brew703]

I've been using the filtered water from those stand alone machines. 5 gal for $1. I haven't had any issues yet. I treat it as RO water when using Bru N Water's spreadsheet and add whatever calcium and gypsum it calls for. I don't test for PH however it's probably time I invest in a PH meter. Just too cheap I guess.

 

[grrickar]

Our local water company pre-softens our water, so the sodium ions are artifically high. I posted some numbers and everyone was asking why I took water from my softener to brew with. Thing is, I don't have a water softener. The water department confirmed they soften the water, so I am stuck buying too...

 

[McKnuckle]

II don't test for PH however it's probably time I invest in a PH meter. Just too cheap I guess.

I don't test either. I have taken the empirical approach of leveraging the Brewer's Friend water calculator, and using trial and error to determine that when it says the predicted mash pH is between 5.4-5.5 at room temp, I like the resulting beer. Might not satisfy the true scientist, but works for me in practice. The beers with lower pH have sometimes been astringent, and I have not yet ventured higher (although I think I will soon).

 

[bbohanon]

I have been looking into putting in an RO system at my house for the cost and convenience as well.
Its painful up front for cost and effort to get it all bought and installed, but man if I could reduce the plastic waste/cost of having to make trips to the store for Primo refills or distilled water in 1gal jugs on 10gallon brew days, its worth it.

I am on well water that would take WAY too much to get it dialed in on my beers so putting in an RO system to have that water on-hand readily is my next step.

 

[GHBWNY]

Well, I've heard about campden, but never used them. I didn't know if this is a must do, or an option, or best practice, or what. Again, this is a forum for asking questions and getting opinions. I'm still just so confused why you have a problem with me asking questions

I guess I somehow misunderstood and I apologize if you took my point the wrong way. I don't have a problem with your asking questions; that is absolutely what we are all here for. I was simply trying to make the point that *if it were me*, I would want to know if there was something in my water that warranted treatment before doing so. Again, that's just me.

Although it's been overstated and debated, I always heard, "if it your water tastes good, then it's good for making beer." So, I've been using our tap water as-is; never treated it or had it tested. We get an annual water report from our municipal provider and I must confess I'm ignorant in knowing what the numbers mean, although there is no hint of chlorine in the smell or taste. In the event of something negative in the water we don't know about, we run all of our drinking water through an Aquasana under-sink filter which I also use for brewing.

Hope you find your solution.

 

[brew703]

I don't test either. I have taken the empirical approach of leveraging the Brewer's Friend water calculator, and using trial and error to determine that when it says the predicted mash pH is between 5.4-5.5 at room temp, I like the resulting beer. Might not satisfy the true scientist, but works for me in practice. The beers with lower pH have sometimes been astringent, and I have not yet ventured higher (although I think I will soon).

I had one astringent beer and that was in the beginning. After about three months of bottle conditioning it was a great beer. For that brew, I think I used spring water but I sort of contribute the astringency to fermentation temp.

I thought about getting a PH meter but really don't want to spend $100 plus the cost of solution. Just seems like a PITA to me.
I use Bru N Water and I always add about 2-2.5% acid malt to my grain bill and so far never had an issue.