[Version 2 Release] RaspberryPints - Digital Taplist Solution

[gtmaus]

Are you certain you installed the server - and not the client?
Have to ask as it's not an uncommon mistake.

Cheers!

pretty certain. I'm pretty green at this

sudo apt-get -y install apache2 php5 mysql-client mysql-server php5-mysql phpmyadmin

 

[wbarber69]

"Demigod"? That's a first



I've been running multiple Arduinos over Bluetooth to talk to their host RPi for BrewPi.



I'm pretty sure @wbarber69 has been doing the same, and afaik neither of us have tried getting RaspberryPints to work over Bluetooth. In my case, I didn't have the need as my RPi sits under my keezer with the display above the t-tower.



But it's an intriguing idea, and likely easier than using WiFi.



As for the proposed alternative, if you could lay hands on an RPi Model Zero that'd be a cheap way to run a browser at the Dell end. I recommend a Model 2 for the host side, it's so much faster than any of the other Pi models...



Cheers!

Really, I got the rpints over bt thing licked back about 100 pages ago, I was pretty sure you helped me with it back then, I haven't had either of my rpi projects up in over a years though, too much work, not enough brewing, sadly. but it's totally doable and using a nano easy to incorporate multiple kegerators into the list without a mess of wires running all over the place. or in my case easier because the beer is in the middle of the living room and the pi is in the office.

 

[CaptnDelta]

I'm pretty sure @wbarber69 has been doing the same, and afaik neither of us have tried getting RaspberryPints to work over Bluetooth. In my case, I didn't have the need as my RPi sits under my keezer with the display above the t-tower.

That's how I understand wbarber from this message:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7139571&postcount=1407

I did the same, btw.

As for the proposed alternative, if you could lay hands on an RPi Model Zero that'd be a cheap way to run a browser at the Dell end. I recommend a Model 2 for the host side, it's so much faster than any of the other Pi models...

I'd go the other way around, if the alamode header fits the zero. Rendering in a browser takes probably more cpu juice then the server side. I'd go with a RPi 2 for both, tho...

Cheers,
-Th

 

[CaptnDelta]

pretty certain. I'm pretty green at this

sudo apt-get -y install apache2 php5 mysql-client mysql-server php5-mysql phpmyadmin

Seems your mysql server isn't running. Try a

sudo service mysqld start

and see that it actually starts the mysql server.

Cheers,
-Th

 

[dwygrsshpr]

Thanks for the input; I think I am going to stay the original course of two Pis (2 Model Bs). To be clear, I should not have any issue using an Uno in place of a alamode or a Nano correct? The other reason I like the 2 Pis is then I can view from any device and not just the dedicated Dell screen (right?). Having the Pi directly attached to the Arduino means I can get around the issue of not being able to control/program over BT (right?).

The minimal cost of two Pis seem to outweigh the headaches associated with either RF or BT (ie my headaches of not knowing code/comms protocols).

I will set up everything per the latest install notes in the most recent pages. Forgot to mention, that this is a 4 tap system and I will be using original swissflow meters that were sourced directly. These will require a resistor in line with the 5V input. Also, they only have a three inch leader; what is the best way of extending that to something useful? I figure some old ribbon cable will work to dump the signals to the duino but what can I use to jumper to that? Does the 3 wire adafruit cable make sense? Not liking the idea of CAT or heatshrinking individual jumper wires - I prefer cleaner installs and make/breaks in wire harnesses. I have access to corporate accounts at Digikey or Newark, I just need to know what the dang things are called (MechE here)

I will place an order tonight for the boards and misc things to get them running for bench test. This will be something to keep me occupied during the winter time blues.

Edit to Add: Since I am re-purposing an old Dell VGA display, I am going to use this cable. I understand that they directly state it is not recommended for Pi due to the power draw required thru the HDMI connector but I have found some other posts on the nets that say it's okay. I could get a powered solution for similar money and male/male VGA cables are practically free anymore. Should I double down and get both to stave off frustration/hot boards?

 

[gtmaus]

Seems your mysql server isn't running. Try a

sudo service mysqld start

and see that it actually starts the mysql server.



Cheers,

-Th

Alright tried that and got

Mysqld: unrecognized service

 

[CaptnDelta]

Thanks for the input; I think I am going to stay the original course of two Pis (2 Model Bs). To be clear, I should not have any issue using an Uno in place of a alamode or a Nano correct? The other reason I like the 2 Pis is then I can view from any device and not just the dedicated Dell screen (right?). Having the Pi directly attached to the Arduino means I can get around the issue of not being able to control/program over BT (right?).

I'd get two Pi 2 (not the B), pretty much same cost, and *alot* more CPU. Uno via USB will work, however you'll have to flash the firmware manually using the Arduino IDE as explained in the notes. The firmware auto-flash only works on the alamode for now, reason being that I can pull the alamode reset line, but haven't figured that out yet how to do over USB. Once you get that far, you'll have to change one line in a config file to use the correct serial port.

The minimal cost of two Pis seem to outweigh the headaches associated with either RF or BT (ie my headaches of not knowing code/comms protocols).

I'd agree with your there, however you'll still have to hook both Pi's up to your network. Is that going to be Ethernet or WiFi?

I will set up everything per the latest install notes in the most recent pages.

Could you do me a real big favor and keep good notes, please, and send me a write-up that I can post at the github wiki?
As the original RPints web site is getting more stale by the day, it would be nice to have a single page where people can be sent to for instructions.

Good luck,
-Th

 

[CaptnDelta]

Alright tried that and got

Mysqld: unrecognized service

Hmmm, try

sudo service mysql start

if that gives you the same answer, then there is no mysql-server installed (in which case other stuff may be missing too).
Try installing just mysql-server again via apt-get.

Cheers,
-Th

 

[gtmaus]

Hmmm, try

sudo service mysql start

if that gives you the same answer, then there is no mysql-server installed (in which case other stuff may be missing too).
Try installing just mysql-server again via apt-get.

Cheers,
-Th

Just tried that and got

[....] /etc/init.d/mysql: ERROR:
The partition with /var/lib/mysql is too full

 

[day_trippr]

Really, I got the rpints over bt thing licked back about 100 pages ago, I was pretty sure you helped me with it back then[...]

Haha! Ok, so my memory ain't all that great
But that's good to know...again...

Cheers!

 

[day_trippr]

Just tried that and got

[....] /etc/init.d/mysql: ERROR:
The partition with /var/lib/mysql is too full

After you installed the OS, did you ever expand the partition to use the whole SD card?

If you didn't, launch a terminal session and do
$ sudo raspi-config
and look for the "Expand File System" selection...

Cheers!

 

[CaptnDelta]

Just tried that and got

[....] /etc/init.d/mysql: ERROR:
The partition with /var/lib/mysql is too full

you need to enlarge your partition so that the full sd card is used. Enter

sudo raspi-config

first option...

Cheers,
-Th

 

[gtmaus]

Right on thanks so much

 

[dwygrsshpr]

I'd get two Pi 2 (not the B), pretty much same cost, and *alot* more CPU. Uno via USB will work, however you'll have to flash the firmware manually using the Arduino IDE as explained in the notes. The firmware auto-flash only works on the alamode for now, reason being that I can pull the alamode reset line, but haven't figured that out yet how to do over USB. Once you get that far, you'll have to change one line in a config file to use the correct serial port.

I'd agree with your there, however you'll still have to hook both Pi's up to your network. Is that going to be Ethernet or WiFi?



Could you do me a real big favor and keep good notes, please, and send me a write-up that I can post at the github wiki?
As the original RPints web site is getting more stale by the day, it would be nice to have a single page where people can be sent to for instructions.

Good luck,
-Th

Two Bs already on order via amazon - I should have waited for your input but these will be dedicated units so extra CPU cycles seems like a wash (I hope). Getting it running is priority and hopefully reflashing is not going to be an issue once it's stable. Everything is going to be wifi (strong/fast network in the house). I hope to keep good notes - As I got further through this thread I realized how weak the Rpints howtos was becoming.

 

[CaptnDelta]

Two Bs already on order via amazon - I should have waited for your input but these will be dedicated units so extra CPU cycles seems like a wash (I hope). Getting it running is priority and hopefully reflashing is not going to be an issue once it's stable. Everything is going to be wifi (strong/fast network in the house). I hope to keep good notes - As I got further through this thread I realized how weak the Rpints howtos was becoming.

It's ok, the B's will do. Hope you also ordered the usb wifi adapters. They can be a tad fiddely in Linux, esp. if you don't start the X window system (which you don't need for the server side), but there is good how-to's around.

Cheers,
-Th

 

[kaljade]

Okay, for anyone who is interested I have update my Keg Volume Calculator to allow for pressure/altitude (not that it makes a huge difference on the volumes we are using, but for the sake of accuracy, scalability and to satisfy my inner pedant), and also to select between metric and imperial units.

As for how I know how much is in my kegs I've created an Excel spreadsheet based on a formula courtesy of DrunkleJon which I added a VLOOKUP table to allow for water density changes according to temperature, so all you need to do is weigh your full keg and enter in the temperature and final gravity and it'll do the rest:

Keg Volume Calculator

The only caveat is that it's based on the pressure being a standard atmosphere. Version 2 I'll look at adding altitude and keg pressure fields in too.

I would have suggested that someone with coding chops could fold it into RaspberryPints (or maybe your side project if it interests you?).

Anyway it's there for anyone who wants to use it (if a keg kicks prematurely or doesn't fill all the way).

Cheers,

Kal

To get any benefit from it you need to increase the number of decimal places in the Tap Form page (I've gone with 6,3) using CaptnDelta's steps here:

Yeah, just notice that too, seems weird to only give it one decimal place (however, I'm curious how you know how much is in your keg that accurately ).

You can try to use phpmyadmin to log into the db, go to the 'raspberrypints' db (on the left), and select table 'taps'. You'll see a 'structure' tab on the top. In there, change the decimal points for both 'startAmount' *and* 'currentAmount'. See if that helps (it won't help with anything that's already there, only future kegs).

As always, make good backups before attempting mysql surgery...

Cheers,
-Th

Once again the credit for the original formula used goes to DrunkleJon:

Personally, I have been guessing. Otherwise you can do a little math.

Weight of keg with beer - Weight of empty keg = FG of beer * weight of volume as water
so
(Weight of keg with beer - Weight of empty keg)/FG of beer = (Gallons of beer in keg / 8.34)
since 1 gallon of water is 8.34 pounds

Should work pretty well.

Cheers,

Kal

 

[day_trippr]

Cool beans! Now to find a digital scale that can handle a full keg and is accurate enough to put that formula to practical use. A 1% error translates to roughly 6 ounces of beer - half a glass - and I'm pretty much there already just by eyeballing the fill.

The postage scale I use for my humble brewery tops out at 35 pounds, and I have my doubts about my bathroom scale accuracy

Cheers!

 

[kaljade]

Cool beans! Now to find a digital scale that can handle a full keg and is accurate enough to put that formula to practical use. A 1% error translates to roughly 6 ounces of beer - half a glass - and I'm pretty much there already just by eyeballing the fill.

The postage scale I use for my humble brewery tops out at 35 pounds, and I have my doubts about my bathroom scale accuracy

Cheers!

I went with "Wide body" digital bathroom scales, that way it can fit the width of a keg and is well under the max weight. A decent set should cost you no more than about 20 bucks.

 

[CaptnDelta]

I went with "Wide body" digital bathroom scales, that way it can fit the width of a keg and is well under the max weight. A decent set should cost you no more than about 20 bucks.

This one is pretty nice (not using it for beer, tho)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYA47HI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Cheers,
-Th

 

[kaljade]

This one is pretty nice (not using it for beer, tho)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYA47HI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Cheers,
-Th

Might actually upgrade to that one (for the sake of accuracy and pedantry)

 

[dwygrsshpr]

It's ok, the B's will do. Hope you also ordered the usb wifi adapters. They can be a tad fiddely in Linux, esp. if you don't start the X window system (which you don't need for the server side), but there is good how-to's around.

Cheers,
-Th

Ha! just realized we had a communication breakdown. I ordered two each:"Pi 2 Model B". 900Mhz Quad with gig o'ram. Very happy little device. And yes, I ordered USB wifi adapters. Went ahead and ordered both HDMI to VGA cables just to be sure. I have a wireless keypad on order but won't be here by the weekend so I am just going to go with hardwired keyboard/mouse for set up.

Plan is to get at least one of the Pis up - I think I can handle that part. Getting Pints installed and the arduino is where I will be checking in here more often.

 

[gtmaus]

alright here's my next problem. I just got done with step 7 and here is what pops up. Id appreciate any help with this. Thanks in advance

Validating Entries...Success!
Checking DB connectivity...Success!
Checking config folder permissions...Success!

Cannot write the configuration files. Please check the /includes/ folder permissions. See the RPints Installation page on www.raspberrypints.com.
Cannot write the configuration files. Please check the /admin/includes/ folder permissions. See the RPints Installation page on www.raspberrypints.com.

Please press the back button on your browser to fix these errors

 

[CaptnDelta]

alright here's my next problem. I just got done with step 7 and here is what pops up. Id appreciate any help with this. Thanks in advance

Validating Entries...Success!
Checking DB connectivity...Success!
Checking config folder permissions...Success!

Cannot write the configuration files. Please check the /includes/ folder permissions. See the RPints Installation page on www.raspberrypints.com.
Cannot write the configuration files. Please check the /admin/includes/ folder permissions. See the RPints Installation page on www.raspberrypints.com.

Please press the back button on your browser to fix these errors

sudo chmod -R +rw /var/www/*

Cheers,
-Th

 

[gtmaus]

Thank you again. I'm gonna owe you a pint or two for all your help

 

[gtmaus]

sudo chmod -R +rw /var/www/*

Cheers,

-Th

I'm still getting the same response???

 

[gtmaus]

I'm still getting the same response???

Got it working!!!

 

[CaptnDelta]

Got it working!!!

Welcome to the club!

Cheers,
-Th

 

[kaljade]

Yea, the jury is still out on that. I'm still missing a few essential pieces to finish up my kegerator, but I did do a test run with a Koelsch that I had handy.

I used solenoids that are normally used in espresso machines. Removing the little filtering screen on the intake helped quite a bit. I also mounted it directly before the flow counters, and used a piece of silicone tubing inside the connector between the two, to keep the inside line diameter between the solenoid and the flow counter about the same. Also, I have a pretty long beer line run (16 ft), which appears to help out. In the end, I still have to see this working in all cases...

BTW, did you see my reply in the other RPints thread?

Cheers,
-Th

CaptnMyCaptn: will these work - https://www.valvesonline.com.au/valves/solenoid-valves/p45-general-purpose-normally-closed

 

[Mafoley29]

I have gotten everything working great and thanks to everyone for the support.

I am very interested I'm getting the shut off valves working next but need to get a lesson 101 on the gpio port as my understanding is that the valves and fans get plugged directl into certain pins on the gpio.

Do valves plug directly into these ports or do you have to change power on these these things? What would a basic parts list be for this with very little soldering? As it is in the keezer and nobody sees it I don't care about looks.

Hopefully you understand the questions

 

[CaptnDelta]

CaptnMyCaptn: will these work - https://www.valvesonline.com.au/valves/solenoid-valves/p45-general-purpose-normally-closed

Well, electrically you should be able to make them work. I'd be a tad worried about the .5 bar min pressure (which amounts to somewhere around 7 PSI). With solenoids, it helps to have long lines to settle the beer after it goes thru the valve. But most of your pressure differential may already be used to overcome the opening differential in that solenoid valve. Best thing is to order just one and try it out, side by side w/o a solenoid, and then make adjustments as needed (or go for other valves).

Hope this helps,
-Th

 

[CaptnDelta]

I have gotten everything working great and thanks to everyone for the support.

I am very interested I'm getting the shut off valves working next but need to get a lesson 101 on the gpio port as my understanding is that the valves and fans get plugged directl into certain pins on the gpio.

Do valves plug directly into these ports or do you have to change power on these these things? What would a basic parts list be for this with very little soldering? As it is in the keezer and nobody sees it I don't care about looks.

Hopefully you understand the questions

You can use pretty much any pin on the Pi that's labeled GPIO, *but do not use Pin 18*. Google around a bit for the GPIO pin layout for your Pi model (different between Pi1 and Pi2, a diagram also came with your Pi packaging), anything GPIO is good, and you just set it in the tap config screen.

As far as the electrical hookup: I used a SainSmart relay board like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5WK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
They're reasonable in price, and seem to work well. They make them with different number of relays.

The main problem is that they need 5V as driver voltage, but the RPi GPIO only produces 3.3V. There are different ways to solve that:

1. Just use as is, you may get lucky and your board switches the relay. I had one (in another project) that worked like that, but since hadn't gotten lucky anymore with other boards. This may be flakey, and your relay may just make marginally contact.
2. Short the LED that's on the relay board. If you look at the internal diagram of the relay driver circuit, there are 2 LED's and a resistor in series. If you short out the indicator LED (the red LED that's lit up when the circuit is on), the circuit works with 3.3V. Just scratch the LED off the board, and put solder across the two contacts. You loose the ability to see which channel is on/off on the board, and on installations with a large number of taps, you may exceeds the Pi's GPIO output capacity.
3. Use a level converter. There are simple and very cheap level converters (Darlington drivers) out there that convert the 3.3V into the proper 5V. This is by far the safest solution, but it creates extra work (breakout board, circuitry, etc.). This is what I used for my RPints setup, since I didn't want to loose the visual cue which channel is actually on. Here's a link to what I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCKTZL0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Depending on what you wanna go for, I can give you more info. Main thing is really finding the right solenoid valves - I'd definitely opt for low-voltage 12V or 24V. I'm ok with the ones that I used, but wouldn't mind finding reasonably priced solenoids with a larger orifice so as to keep the flow diameter as equal as possible along the beer line.

Cheers,
-Th

 

[Mafoley29]

Mr Captain

Thanks for the reply. I will go off of option #3 that you provided. Could you provide more detail as in what hardware besides the one level converter would be needed? Also would you be able to provide another picture what the outcome would be, like you did a few posts back?

 

[CaptnDelta]

I need to get some of the drawings and pics together and write that up.
Just setting up water for tomorrow's brew day, so may not get to it right away. Ping me again in this thread if I haven't gotten around to it by Sunday, so I don't forget

Cheers
-Th

 

[gtmaus]

I have one last superficial problem. Everything is working perfectly except for the background. I wanted a plain black background so I uploaded my file. The background changed on every device I tested it on (PC, iPad & laptop) except my display connected to the pi. When I reboot the pi it loads the plain black background for 2-3 seconds then resorts back to the default. So I deleted the default background img and replaced it with my file. My file is now on there twice (my uploaded file and as the default file) After a reboot of the pi the same thing happened, 2-3 seconds of my background then back to the original image. How is this possible the original image is not even on the pi anymore.

any ideas???

 

[kaljade]

I have one last superficial problem. Everything is working perfectly except for the background. I wanted a plain black background so I uploaded my file. The background changed on every device I tested it on (PC, iPad & laptop) except my display connected to the pi. When I reboot the pi it loads the plain black background for 2-3 seconds then resorts back to the default. So I deleted the default background img and replaced it with my file. My file is now on there twice (my uploaded file and as the default file) After a reboot of the pi the same thing happened, 2-3 seconds of my background then back to the original image. How is this possible the original image is not even on the pi anymore.

any ideas???

Browser cache? Try connecting a keyboard to the Pi and hit Ctrl+F5 and see if that helps?

 

[Mafoley29]

Browser cache? Try connecting a keyboard to the Pi and hit Ctrl+F5 and see if that helps?

Also, if you are having this problem in kiosk mode on boot close kiosk mode and open up another browser window does it work this way?

 

[gtmaus]

Ctrl+f5 worked! I was just using f5. Thanks a lot

 

[kaljade]

Ctrl+f5 worked! I was just using f5. Thanks a lot

No worries, Chrome is pretty aggressive in its caching (experience this a lot in my day job).

FYI, F5 just refreshes the page (so uses cached stuff), CTRL+F5 is a hard refresh (clears cached stuff then reloads page).

Glad it worked

 

[CaptnDelta]

Mr Captain

Thanks for the reply. I will go off of option #3 that you provided. Could you provide more detail as in what hardware besides the one level converter would be needed? Also would you be able to provide another picture what the outcome would be, like you did a few posts back?

Hi Mafoley,

your package arrived yesterday, much thanks for that, I appreciate it. I hope to get around to that in the next few weeks.

Here as said earlier, a few schematics and pictures of the breakout board that I made for hooking my RPints build together.

Attached first is the schematic that shows how the level converter is hooked up. It also shows additional circuitry that takes the Alamode inputs to screw terminals. You may not need that part with your Uno.

The second picture is the board layout. Starting on the left and going clockwise:
* JP2 is the connector to the 8 channel relay board I used. There is a ribbon cable going straight across; you'll see that in the picture below. You'll see that only 6 inputs (pin 1-6 of ULN1) of the level converter are connected - that's because I only use 6 of the 8 relays (5 taps + one for the fan). You may need to adjust that to your needs, in total it can drive 8 circuits.
* Next is JP1, which supplies the relay board with 5V for the relay circuitry.
* M13 on the top connects to the GPIO of the RPi. I would up not making direct connections, but using post connectors next to M13 to use short jumper wires to make the connection to the GPIO. This gives a bit more flexibility when changing the GPIO pins used.
* JP3 to the right is the connector to the Alamode that picks up the flow meter inputs and routes them to screw terminals.
* JP4 is for supplying power to the flow meters and goes to the Alamode as well.
* X1, X4 and X5 at the bottom are screw terminals for the power supply, 5V on the right, GND in the middle and 12V on the right (not used on the board, it's for the actual solenoids).

The last 3 pics are just photos of how the whole thing sits in the project box. Basically, the Alamode is stacked on top of the RPi, and the breakout board on top of the Alamode. 5 V power is hooked up to the breakout board, and via a micro usb connector also to the Alamode. The breakout board supplies 5V to the relay board as mentioned (JP1) above.

The connectors to the outside are 6 pin, one for each tap + 1 for the fan. 3 pins on each connector are used for the flow counter for that tap as usual. One pin is solenoid ground, one pin is connected to the switching side of the relay, and one is 12V. This way I can override the RPi logic in the keezer with a 3 way switch for each tap: On, Off, RPi control.

That's about it, let me know if you need further help.

Good luck
-Th

 

[Mafoley29]

Hi Mafoley,

your package arrived yesterday, much thanks for that, I appreciate it. I hope to get around to that in the next few weeks.

Here as said earlier, a few schematics and pictures of the breakout board that I made for hooking my RPints build together.

Attached first is the schematic that shows how the level converter is hooked up. It also shows additional circuitry that takes the Alamode inputs to screw terminals. You may not need that part with your Uno.

The second picture is the board layout. Starting on the left and going clockwise:
* JP2 is the connector to the 8 channel relay board I used. There is a ribbon cable going straight across; you'll see that in the picture below. You'll see that only 6 inputs (pin 1-6 of ULN1) of the level converter are connected - that's because I only use 6 of the 8 relays (5 taps + one for the fan). You may need to adjust that to your needs, in total it can drive 8 circuits.
* Next is JP1, which supplies the relay board with 5V for the relay circuitry.
* M13 on the top connects to the GPIO of the RPi. I would up not making direct connections, but using post connectors next to M13 to use short jumper wires to make the connection to the GPIO. This gives a bit more flexibility when changing the GPIO pins used.
* JP3 to the right is the connector to the Alamode that picks up the flow meter inputs and routes them to screw terminals.
* JP4 is for supplying power to the flow meters and goes to the Alamode as well.
* X1, X4 and X5 at the bottom are screw terminals for the power supply, 5V on the right, GND in the middle and 12V on the right (not used on the board, it's for the actual solenoids).

The last 3 pics are just photos of how the whole thing sits in the project box. Basically, the Alamode is stacked on top of the RPi, and the breakout board on top of the Alamode. 5 V power is hooked up to the breakout board, and via a micro usb connector also to the Alamode. The breakout board supplies 5V to the relay board as mentioned (JP1) above.

The connectors to the outside are 6 pin, one for each tap + 1 for the fan. 3 pins on each connector are used for the flow counter for that tap as usual. One pin is solenoid ground, one pin is connected to the switching side of the relay, and one is 12V. This way I can override the RPi logic in the keezer with a 3 way switch for each tap: On, Off, RPi control.

That's about it, let me know if you need further help.

Good luck
-Th

Hello CaptnDelta

Thank you very much for all of this. I have a few questions.

1. On the relay board does your 5 shut off valves only hook up to them? AND NOT YOUR FLOW METERS
2. What is your brand of Shut off valves that you are using? What reasonably priced solenoids with a larger orifice would you use?
3. What about this to go from breadboard to rpi? I am using the rpi 2 with the 40 pin GPIO. If this works then I would call this M13 and would tie everything to this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWA2AS0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

4. What is the 9 pin ribbon cable that you used to go from relay to breadboard? (part number) Did you cut a 40 pin ribbon down to 9 pin? Did you use breadboard pins soldered to the breadboard and then underneath (which we cannot see from the pictures) jumper to the underneath post on ULN1?

5. What cable did you use for JPI? Is JP1 the three little squares on the alamode next to the SD car slot labled U3? Did you hook it up the same way as number 4 underneath the board?

6. What is a part number of X1 screw down ports? Do those solder directly to the breadboard?

7. JP3 looks like it is ports D0 - D7 on the alamode I believe. Am I correct?

8. Jp4 is the POWER port on the alamode????

9. From the third picture of your box. What is the white transformer?

10. Can you explain the green, white, and black power that you are using from the wall wart that plugs into the project box? Does your white go to port 1 on X5? What is port 2, and 3 on X5 (12V)

Sorry for the huge list of questions