upgrade 30A to 50A - questions

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BigFloppy

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I like many out there used these 30A terminal block to distribute power around our panels... OK, so I'm upgrading my service to 50A for possible back to back brewing...

What did you change your 30A terminal block to?

Did you just run an additional set of 10ga heater wire separately?
Did you double up on jumpers


Links would be useful!!
 
I'm building a 50 amp control panel. I have not been able to find a terminal strip that is sized for #6 wire. Most of the ones I find are for wire gage size 10 and smaller. Any suggestions ?
I believe 50 amps requires coming into the control panel with #6 wire to the first terminal strip and then from there it can be #10 wire to each 5500 watt element.
The din rail mounted terminals may be sized for many wire sizes but not sure ?
When ordering from EBrewSupply do you need to order the din rail mounted terminals with the wire size information ?
 
I'm building a 50 amp control panel. I have not been able to find a terminal strip that is sized for #6 wire. Most of the ones I find are for wire gage size 10 and smaller. Any suggestions ?
I believe 50 amps requires coming into the control panel with #6 wire to the first terminal strip and then from there it can be #10 wire to each 5500 watt element.
The din rail mounted terminals may be sized for many wire sizes but not sure ?
When ordering from EBrewSupply do you need to order the din rail mounted terminals with the wire size information ?

Yeah you will need a piece of DIN rail to mount them on ( he sells it http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/internal-hardware/din-rail-cuts.html). The description says 6-22 AWG, they are screw terminals so they clamp down.

I wouldn't connect a 10 AWG wire to a 50 amp supply/source without first fusing it or going through a circuit breaker...
 
There is so much confusion about wire gauge. Simply put 10AWG can handle 50 amps if you use an industrial rated wire and not your DIY home depot type. It is not the wire gauge but the insulation rating that determines the capacity. There is no reason to upgrade din contacts or go with a heavier wire gauge. except for the actual heat element circuit. You need 10 AWG with Z rated insulation, that is it. Furthermore, everything besides the actual heater element circuits is running you basic 110 v on much lower rated breakers/fuses. Worse case scenario is the feed wire on the element circuit can be 8 AWG. All of the internal circuits for individual switches and LED's are fine. Make sure you use type THHN wire. ROMEX has the lowest rating of all so that is the only time you would need #6 wire. No reason to over complicate things. bigger doesn't always mean better.
 
There is so much confusion about wire gauge. Simply put 10AWG can handle 50 amps if you use an industrial rated wire and not your DIY home depot type. It is not the wire gauge but the insulation rating that determines the capacity. There is no reason to upgrade din contacts or go with a heavier wire gauge. except for the actual heat element circuit. You need 10 AWG with Z rated insulation, that is it. Furthermore, everything besides the actual heater element circuits is running you basic 110 v on much lower rated breakers/fuses. Worse case scenario is the feed wire on the element circuit can be 8 AWG. All of the internal circuits for individual switches and LED's are fine. Make sure you use type THHN wire. ROMEX has the lowest rating of all so that is the only time you would need #6 wire. No reason to over complicate things. bigger doesn't always mean better.

Also, length plays a huge role. The short lengths used in control panels helps makes larger gauges even less critical.
 

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