Trying my first original recipe, would like some feedback

[tbrown4]

I'm new around here. Been brewing with a few friends for a bit over a year now. Done several extract kits and an original extract recipe. Both of my brew buddies have much more experience brewing than I. We've had some decent success in most experiences. So now I've assembled my first basic home brew set up and am ready to strike out with my own stuff.

It's a mid-heft light colored IPA, going to finish it with orange zest, or some other citrus zest. Thoughts? Glaring mistakes or errors? May do this as early as Sunday.

I really would appreciate any feedback or tips.

Size: 5.0 gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 251.22 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.075 (1.056 - 1.075)
Terminal Gravity: 1.019 (1.010 - 1.018)
Color: 6.0 (6.0 - 15.0)
Alcohol: 7.43% (5.5% - 7.5%)
Bitterness: 88.3 (40.0 - 70.0)

Ingredients:
8.0 lb Dry Extra Light Extract
1.0 lb American Caramel 10°L
1.5 oz Centennial (10.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60.0 m
1.0 oz Sorachi Ace (12.9%) - added during boil, boiled 15.0 m
1.0 oz Citra™ (12.0%) - added during boil, boiled 5.0 m
1.0 oz Sorachi Ace (12.9%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 ea WYeast 1056 American Ale™

Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.21

 

[Rivenin]

Never had sor. Ace hops. But it looks like a good ipa!

 

[jaytizzle]

Thoughts about swapping the 1 oz ace dry hop to 0.5 oz ace and 0.5 oz citra?

The recipe seems pretty damn good to me. I like the idea of finishing with some citrus zest. I'm a HUGE fan of blood orange and will do a hefe soon with both zest and fruit (since the fruit itself is so unique).

 

[tbrown4]

Thoughts about swapping the 1 oz ace dry hop to 0.5 oz ace and 0.5 oz citra?

Hmm....that's an interesting suggestion. Let me think on that. Thanks!

 

[tbrown4]

So, this recipe has morphed and changed a bit over the last several months. Changed the hop schedule to do a small addition of each of the three hop varieties every 15 minutes. Here's how it went down.

Original Gravity: 1.060 (1.056 - 1.075)
Terminal Gravity: 1.015 (1.010 - 1.018)
Color: 14.34 (6.0 - 15.0)
Alcohol: 5.89% (5.5% - 7.5%)
Bitterness: 82.0 (40.0 - 70.0)

Ingredients:
0.25*lb Belgian Cara-Pils
0.75*lb Caramel Malt 120L (Organic)
6.0*lb CBW® Pilsen Light Liquid (Malt Extract)
2.0*lb CBW® Pilsen Light Powder (Dry Malt Extract)
.2*oz Australian Galaxy (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60*m
.2*oz Sorachi Ace (12.9%) - added during boil, boiled 60*m
.2*oz Citra™ (12.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60*m
.2*oz Australian Galaxy (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 45*m
.2*oz Sorachi Ace (12.9%) - added during boil, boiled 45*m
.2*oz Citra™ (12.0%) - added during boil, boiled 45*m
.2*oz Australian Galaxy (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 30*m
.2*oz Sorachi Ace (12.9%) - added during boil, boiled 30*m
.2*oz Citra™ (12.0%) - added during boil, boiled 30*m
.2*oz Australian Galaxy (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 15*m
.2*oz Sorachi Ace (10.5%) - added during boil, boiled 15*m
.2*oz Citra™ (13.9%) - added during boil, boiled 15*m
.2*oz Australian Galaxy (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 0*m
.2*oz Sorachi Ace (10.5%) - added during boil, boiled 0*m
.2*oz Citra™ (13.9%) - added during boil, boiled 0*m
1.0*tsp Irish Moss - added during boil, boiled 15.0*m
1.0*ea WYeast 1056 American Ale™

OG came out to 1.056, could be that I had a bit more water? Brewing went well as far as I could tell. I'm going to try and get this one off yeast once fermentation has slowed and gravity readings are stable over a few days. I'll put in secondary, thinking of splitting the batch and adding lemon zest to one half.

Thoughts?

 

[gmcastil]

If you want to dry it out some, consider adding a relatively small amount (perhaps a pound) of corn sugar to the beer once it's at high krausen. Some of the best IPAs around are done this way and it tends to help shave a few more points off the final gravity. Looks really good though - I'd like to try some of those hop varieties you've been using.

 

[hogwash]

IMO, your hop schedule is more complex than it needs to be. You only get bitterness from your 60 min so there's not much point in using multiple types. 45 & 30 additions are sort of no man's land as you get neither much bittering or flavor from either, especially when you have a 60min addition.

I'd use an oz of Galaxy for my bittering charge at 60 then split everything else at 15, 10, 5, & flameout. Obviously, it's already brewed but something to keep in mind for next time. I'm curious to see how this turns out.

 

[tbrown4]

IMO, your hop schedule is more complex than it needs to be. You only get bitterness from your 60 min so there's not much point in using multiple types. 45 & 30 additions are sort of no man's land as you get neither much bittering or flavor from either, especially when you have a 60min addition.

I'd use an oz of Galaxy for my bittering charge at 60 then split everything else at 15, 10, 5, & flameout. Obviously, it's already brewed but something to keep in mind for next time. I'm curious to see how this turns out.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[dcp27]

I'm going to try and get this one off yeast once fermentation has slowed and gravity readings are stable over a few days. I'll put in secondary, thinking of splitting the batch and adding lemon zest to one half.

Thoughts?

why secondary and what happened to the dry hop? looks like a bitter pale ale, you def need to up the late hops more next time, 1.2oz isnt gunna cut it for an IPA

 

[billl]

If you have the ability, fermenting below 65F with 1056 will bring out all the citrus flavors.

Also, I'd add an ounce of each of your hops as a dryhop. That will take the aroma into IPA territory.

 

[tbrown4]

If you have the ability, fermenting below 65F with 1056 will bring out all the citrus flavors.

Also, I'd add an ounce of each of your hops as a dryhop. That will take the aroma into IPA territory.

It's sitting at 62F right now. I was considering dry hopping, and your suggestion strengthens this!

Should I dry hop when I move to secondary, or before?

 

[ludomonster]

Dry hop about a week before bottling. Some people dry hop in primary and others do it in secondary.

 

[tbrown4]

I'll shoot for secondary. I was planning to let it sit there for about a week.

 

[dcp27]

unless you're harvesting the yeast from primary, a 1 week secondary is useless and unnecessary risk of oxidation/contamination. the beer will clarify/condition just as well, if not better leaving it in the primary for that same time

 

[billl]

"Should I dry hop when I move to secondary, or before?"

If you are going to use a secondary, that is the place to dryhop. You want to maximize hop aroma and then get it in bottles or a keg ASAP afterward. You could also dry hop in the primary and just leave it there until you are ready to bottle.

 

[tbrown4]

"Should I dry hop when I move to secondary, or before?"

If you are going to use a secondary, that is the place to dryhop. You want to maximize hop aroma and then get it in bottles or a keg ASAP afterward. You could also dry hop in the primary and just leave it there until you are ready to bottle.

Thanks! For dry hopping in secondary...I'm thinking about putting the hop pellets in a mesh bag. Is that a fairly common practice?

Took a gravity reading this evening and it's at 1.010 SG at 62F. Going to check again tomorrow to see if gravity changes at all. Looking to move this to secondary once fermentation appears to have mostly stopped.

Thanks for the feedback and tips.

 

[logan3825]

IMO, your hop schedule is more complex than it needs to be. You only get bitterness from your 60 min so there's not much point in using multiple types. 45 & 30 additions are sort of no man's land as you get neither much bittering or flavor from either, especially when you have a 60min addition.

I'd use an oz of Galaxy for my bittering charge at 60 then split everything else at 15, 10, 5, & flameout. Obviously, it's already brewed but something to keep in mind for next time. I'm curious to see how this turns out.

What he said. Other than 60m I wouldn't bother adding any more hops until at least 20m and usually 15.

I would also drop the carapils. Extract typically has carapils in it.

Also Google secondary vs long primary. Many people don't secondary even for dry hopping.

 

[Yooper]

Thanks! For dry hopping in secondary...I'm thinking about putting the hop pellets in a mesh bag. Is that a fairly common practice?

Took a gravity reading this evening and it's at 1.010 SG at 62F. Going to check again tomorrow to see if gravity changes at all. Looking to move this to secondary once fermentation appears to have mostly stopped.

Thanks for the feedback and tips.

Yes, it's probably common to use a bag for hops in the clearing vessel. "Secondary" is a misnomber, as fermentation is finished. In a brewery, this is called the "bright tank". Anyway, it's common to use a bag probably but it's a huge pain. You can just gently drop the pellets in the beer in the carboy, or rack the beer onto the dryhops, and it's easier and seems to allow the beer to more fully permeate the hops. Pellet hops disintegrate in there- some will float and some will sink. Just rack from between them by starting the siphon in the middle when you go to the bottling bucket and you'll be fine.

I would NOT move to the clearing vessel if fermentation just appears to mostly have stopped. Wait until it's starting to clear if you feel the need to rack it to the clearing vessel. Otherwise, you'll just moving the beer and not really gaining anything at all. I rarely rack just to dryhop, but if you just to do so, at least wait until the beer has been finished at least three days or so.

When you dryhop, dryhop for 5-7 days for best hops flavor and aroma. So plan on dryhopping about a week before packaging, regardless of what vessel you are using.

 

[tbrown4]

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, it's probably common to use a bag for hops in the clearing vessel. "Secondary" is a misnomber, as fermentation is finished. In a brewery, this is called the "bright tank". Anyway, it's common to use a bag probably but it's a huge pain. You can just gently drop the pellets in the beer in the carboy, or rack the beer onto the dryhops, and it's easier and seems to allow the beer to more fully permeate the hops. Pellet hops disintegrate in there- some will float and some will sink. Just rack from between them by starting the siphon in the middle when you go to the bottling bucket and you'll be fine.

I'm aware of the misnomer. I'll probably use a bag, if anything to make clean up easier.

I would NOT move to the clearing vessel if fermentation just appears to mostly have stopped. Wait until it's starting to clear if you feel the need to rack it to the clearing vessel. Otherwise, you'll just moving the beer and not really gaining anything at all. I rarely rack just to dryhop, but if you just to do so, at least wait until the beer has been finished at least three days or so.

Well, I've read (and been told) that it's generally a good idea to get it off the yeast cake as soon as you can once fermentation has slowed (stopped) and stabilized...unless it's something like a saison or a hefe, or any other style that takes a lot of it's flavor profile from the yeast characteristics. Or, am I completely off here?

When you dryhop, dryhop for 5-7 days for best hops flavor and aroma. So plan on dryhopping about a week before packaging, regardless of what vessel you are using.

Ok, I was thinking a week would be good. Thanks for confirming this!

 

[bleme]

Well, I've read (and been told) that it's generally a good idea to get it off the yeast cake as soon as you can once fermentation has slowed (stopped) and stabilized...unless it's something like a saison or a hefe, or any other style that takes a lot of it's flavor profile from the yeast characteristics. Or, am I completely off here?

Award winning beers have been made both with and without a bright tank. It's totally your preference.

As far as dry hopping, most people say to hop for 7 days but Matt Brynildson, the head brewer at Firestone Walker, recommends no longer than 3 days per batch so if you have 2 ounces to dry hop with, put an ounce in for 3 days, pull it out and put the 2nd in for 3 days, than bottle. He says that greatly reduces any grassy notes from the hops.

 

[tbrown4]

Award winning beers have been made both with and without a bright tank. It's totally your preference.

As far as dry hopping, most people say to hop for 7 days but Matt Brynildson, the head brewer at Firestone Walker, recommends no longer than 3 days per batch so if you have 2 ounces to dry hop with, put an ounce in for 3 days, pull it out and put the 2nd in for 3 days, than bottle. He says that greatly reduces any grassy notes from the hops.

Hmmm, that's interesting. Thanks!

 

[ludomonster]

The other thing to consider for avoiding grassy taste is the alpha acid content. A high AA hop will have a lower percentage of vegetable matter than a low AA hop.

 

[Yooper]

Well, I've read (and been told) that it's generally a good idea to get it off the yeast cake as soon as you can once fermentation has slowed (stopped) and stabilized...unless it's something like a saison or a hefe, or any other style that takes a lot of it's flavor profile from the yeast characteristics. Or, am I completely off here?

Well, not "completely off". I wouldn't leave a beer on the yeast cake for extended periods of time, but two-three weeks is certainly a good amount of time. I don't go for a super-long primary (4 weeks) like some do, but I almost always go two weeks in primary, and then right to packaging. In my homebrew setting, I don't see an advantage to a bright tank.

 

[tbrown4]

I dry hopped this with 1 oz each of Citra, Galaxy and Sorachi Ace. Going to let it sit for about a week, then to the bottles.

 

[tbrown4]

Just wanted to update. Bottled 9 days ago. Popped a few bottles today with my buddy. Fully carbed.

Im extremely happy with how this turned out. The aroma is at about 75% of what Id like, but everything else is fantastic. Lots of earthy, citrusy and dank goodness. Clean finish.

 

[tbrown4]

Been a while since I've checked in. The Galaxy, Citra and Sorachic Sce IPA went real quick. Was very popular with my buddies. I'm now on my third variation of the IPA, with the 5 spread out hop additions with dry hopping.

The second version used Nelson Sauvin, Australian Galaxy & Topaz and finished at about 6.3% ABV. I won a local home brew society's IPA competition out of 15 entries. Loved, loved, loved the dank earthiness of the Aussie/NZ hop varieties. During primary as I was doing a gravity reading I was smacked in the face with a huge grapefruit citrus like aroma from those hops. I decided to take a gallon off for secondary and throw in some grapefruit zest. The grapefruit variety was tasty, my wife loved it...and probably consumed 7 of the 11 bottles.

The third version was just bottled on Sunday and finished at about 7.8% ABV. I beefed up the malt bill a little bit and changed the hops to Nelson Sauvin, Australian Stella and Australian Super Pride.

For the first I used Wyeast 1056, for the second I used a first generation starter from saved yeast from the first batch. Both fermented in 9-10 days. Carbing in the bottles took a week, peak of flavor at about 18 days in the bottle.

For the third version I had no fermentation signs after 4 days. The second generation 1056 starter that I made didn't work. I'm thinking that I either didn't save/store it properly or that my starter was WAY off. I ended up pitching a fresh White Labs 001 on day 5, fermentation went nuts after about 10 hours. Ended up taking about 12 days to ferment, then sat in secondary for another week for dry hopping.