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Trouble with efficiency

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Armen_Tamzarian

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Sep 22, 2010
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I've made three batches since switching to all grain. The efficiency has gotten better each time but I'm wondering if my set up may be holding me back.

The first three efficiencies were 40%, 58.1%, 66%. I made my MLT using a 4 ft SS braid for a washing machine. The braid kind of got pinched at some locations and I feel it may be too flimsy/pinched. (I also made a coil with 16 gauge copper wire to support the SS braid) I am aware that it may just be a matter of developing the skill/figuring out a good system. I brewed these beers in a 2-3 week period and have yet to try a finished product.

From past experience, do any of you think it would be worth it to construct a manifold with CPVC? Or do you think I'll be able to get better efficiency with more time? Thanks!
 
there's a lot of info missing here... recipe.. pre boil volume, post boil volume. pre-boil SG post boil SG. are you crushing your own grain or is the LHBS doing it?
 
you also left out how you're sparging..
fly or batch? (hopefully batch if you're using a hose-braid)
sparge water temp?

I don't think a new manifold is going to make a huge difference. If you're batch sparging, the manifold has very little to do with efficiency. Grain crush is the biggest variable/factor IMO.
 
the reason I asked for the volumes and recipe is simple. if you have a recipe that is designed for 5 gallons, and make 5.5 (or more) your efficiency appears to be horrible when in fact its not as bad as you think
 
I think a common problem with using the SS braid is that it can lift up in the mash while stirring and what not so this will affect the path of the wort when lautering, I use a copper manifold and I think that would help a lot.

But yes what everyone else is saying we need more info like your recipe and especially your sparge technique.
 
Sorry for the vaugeness (sp) of the post. I have been using the batch sparge method, specifically Bobby M's all grain instructions. I also hadn't considered the effect of adding a bit more water then is originally stated in the recipes that I have tried. Generally I have been trying to use water at 180 F to sparge with. My grain has been crushed utilizing the LHBS mill and I have asked them how they thought the grains looked before completely milling all the grain.

I just downloaded Brewtarget to mess around with for the third batch. It's a cool program but I like the idea of figuring out how to do the calculations by hand and seeing what works best for myself rather than just reading off the computer.

I'm having a great time and am stoked for making the jump to all grain. I'm quickly seeing how much more in depth all of this is becoming! I love it. Thanks for the input on some of the issues I may be having regarding efficiency.
 
While the braid has very little to do with efficiency if you're looking to replace it another easier option is to get a bazooka tube for $20. Its almost the same thing as the braid except a lot larger, a LOT more rigid, and it screws right into your ball valve.
 
the reason I asked for the volumes and recipe is simple. if you have a recipe that is designed for 5 gallons, and make 5.5 (or more) your efficiency appears to be horrible when in fact its not as bad as you think

Agreed.

The first things I would look at is to make sure that you are measuring everything accurately....

water volume (corrected for temp)
gravity (corrected for temp and making sure instruments are calibrated)
temperatures (calibrated)

I was having efficiency problems early on, and I was relying on Ale Pale volume markings.......which are often way off.

Until you are completely confident in your measurement, start there.

Sometimes the efficiency is fine, you just are measuring wrong.

Next - try to isolate if you are having conversion issues or lauter issues. Read this from Kai and it should help:

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency
http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency
 
How dry are the grains when you are done sparging? If you are leaving a decent amount of liquid behind, that is going to hurt your efficiency a good deal. Tip the cooler or do whatever you need to do to get everything out.

Recently, I have lautered as much as I could then started to heat up the wort for the boil. I would then leave the mash tun tilted with the spigot open and let it slowly drain into a container while the wort is reaching temp. I have been getting an additional 0.3-0.5 gallons more out and I think that has helped (along w/ my barley crusher) raise my efficiency from ~65% to 80%
 
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