Nah man. Crash it now. Decant what you feel comfortable with, and pitch the rest!Planning on brewing tomorrow and I hate dumping 1.5 L starters into the brew but I guess it’s too late to cold crash and decant, eh?
Nah man. Crash it now. Decant what you feel comfortable with, and pitch the rest!Planning on brewing tomorrow and I hate dumping 1.5 L starters into the brew but I guess it’s too late to cold crash and decant, eh?
Thanks for your help!Nah man. Crash it now. Decant what you feel comfortable with, and pitch the rest!
Exactly my thoughts. The starter beer on top looks pretty clear already. Crash as long as possible. Take out of fridge an hour before pitching (not brewing), decant, then let the slurry come to room temps during that hour.Nah man. Crash it now. Decant what you feel comfortable with, and pitch the rest!
Exactly my thoughts. The starter beer on top looks pretty clear already. Crash as long as possible. Take out of fridge an hour before pitching (not brewing), decant, then let the slurry come to room temps during that hour.
I did stir (I shake now) continuously. I hear what you're saying, there's usually some sort of foam developing. But if the yeast multiplies fast, you may miss it.Have you ever seen a starter not even have a tiny krausen? It sounds like you continuously use the stir plate so maybe you haven’t.
I did stir (I shake now) continuously. I hear what you're saying, there's usually some sort of foam developing. But if the yeast multiplies fast, you may miss it.
From what I understand, fermentation of a continuously aerated or oxygenated starter is a side effect. The yeast needs to ferment some for her metabolism, the oxygen supply helps her build sterols for healthy budding, which is what we're after.
Before I had a stir plate, too many times I lost half the yeast culture to the countertop, and always overnight. It almost became a game of cat and mouse. Switching to a gallon wine jug really helped keeping the starters inside. There's only a genuine need for a (flat bottomed) flask when using a stir plate.
I add a drop of Fermcap to my starter wort. No more boil overs or excessive foaming while boiling for a few minutes.That’s exactly why I don’t continuously use the stir plate. I have a 2 L flask and a 1.5 L starter definitely has the potential to get too worked up and literally push the foam stopper almost out of the flask. I do also use a gallon jug for bigger starters, and then of course shaking is the preferred method.
I add a drop of Fermcap to my starter wort. No more boil overs or excessive foaming while boiling for a few minutes.
Seems to reduce excessive foaming in the starter vessel too.
IMO, continuous stirring prevents foam overs. Stop the stirrer and it's no different than a jar on the countertop => explosive blow off.
I have 2 orbital lab shakers. I can place 4 2-liter flasks and/or 1/2 gallon pickle jars, or 2 1-gallon jugs, on each.
I glued a washer to the center of a variable-speed computer fan and stuck two little neodymium magnets to it for a stirplate.The only problem is, the stirbar sometimes spins out. I think that's because my flasks have slightly domed bottoms. I bought a beaker, thinking it might be flatter, but haven't tested it yet.
The best thing is, I didn't invest a dime on those shakers, they came from a friend who worked at a lab, they decommissioned stuff on a regular basis. These are the real thing, heavy duty, weigh 40+ pounds. They live on the floor or they'll shake the whole house.Wow you’ve really invested! My Maelstrom stir plate seems to be on the fritz. Kind of a bummer for $150
If there's good magnetic coupling, it should not throw the stir bar, even if there's a slight curvature. Get those magnets as close to the bottom of the flask as possible, and match the distance between them to the stir bar length.I glued a washer to the center of a variable-speed computer fan and stuck two little neodymium magnets to it for a stirplate.The only problem is, the stirbar sometimes spins out. I think that's because my flasks have slightly domed bottoms. I bought a beaker, thinking it might be flatter, but haven't tested it yet.
The best thing is, I didn't invest a dime on those shakers, they came from a friend who worked at a lab, they decommissioned stuff on a regular basis. These are the real thing, heavy duty, weigh 40+ pounds. They live on the floor or they'll shake the whole house.
Sorry to hear about your Maelstrom, for that price they should last a lifetime. What's wrong with it? Perhaps take it up with the manufacturer?
We have many threads on homebuilt stirplates, it's one of the easiest projects, using a computer fan and some neodymium magnets. A $10-20 project, and some ingenuity, yes, if that.I’m always amazed at the ingenuity of homebrewers. I mess up enough in the brewing process, I wouldn’t attempt something like that!
If there's good magnetic coupling, it should not throw the stir bar, even if there's a slight curvature. Get those magnets as close to the bottom of the flask as possible, and match the distance between them to the stir bar length.
I have trouble throwing away a used Kleenex if it looks like it has one more use in it
I skipped a bunch of the replies, but on my stirplate I more often get NO krausen than a thick layer. I look to the color mostly. It should go from a somewhat clear medium brown to an opaque creamy color. Think coffee with a good amount of cream.
The the final determination is to turn off the stirplate and/or cold crash and see what the layer of yeast that settles looks like.
I would say the first one was dumped unnecessarily.
We have many threads on homebuilt stirplates, it's one of the easiest projects, using a computer fan and some neodymium magnets. A $10-20 project, and some ingenuity, yes, if that.
Now one should expect the Maelstrom to be 20 notches above most DIY builds and last a lifetime of brewing.
I'd still find out what warranty you got with it. Look for a fix, you can't be the only one?
If there's good magnetic coupling, it should not throw the stir bar, even if there's a slight curvature. Get those magnets as close to the bottom of the flask as possible, and match the distance between them to the stir bar length.
I added 2 more magnets, and it doesn't throw the stirbar anymore.
Steel washers are a lot cheaper than magnets so I'll probably get another washer and glue it on top so the extra magnets can go back on the fridge.
What are steel washers going to do? It takes magnets to turn the stirbar.
The steel washer will raise the magnets up about 1/8 inch. I will still have magnets, just 2 or 4 instead of the 6 I have right now. The steel also keeps the magnetic flux out of the motor; these magnets are strong enough to maybe keep the motor from working.
Just to clarify, the steel washer should be underneath the magnets. Together with the stir bar on top it closes the magnetic field for maximum coupling.The steel washer will raise the magnets up about 1/8 inch. I will still have magnets, just 2 or 4 instead of the 6 I have right now. The steel also keeps the magnetic flux out of the motor; these magnets are strong enough to maybe keep the motor from working.
Just to clarify, the steel washer should be underneath the magnets. Together with the stir bar on top it closes the magnetic field for maximum coupling.