Thoughts on my first recipe?

[dward85]

Be gentle... This is my first attempt. I am trying to emulate a local microbrewery who does a fantastic single hop cashmere neipa. It is super creamy and smooth with almost no bitterness.

Destroy me if you must. I appreciate the constructive feedback.

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

I would probably add a couple oz of hops and do a whirlpool. Also, with NEIPA O2 is the enemy so I would just do all 4 oz of dry hop additions at once ~2-3 days into primary to eliminate opening the fermentor an extra time and allow it to build up a CO2 blanket. Otherwise, looks good to me. Lets us know how it goes, cheers!

 

[BarkingSpider]

For a first brew it looks pretty simple and that's what you want. I would say the only boogey man could be a stuck mash with all of that oaty goodness, but it looks like you're aware of that.

 

[dward85]

I would probably add a couple oz of hops and do a whirlpool. Also, with NEIPA O2 is the enemy so I would just do all 4 oz of dry hop additions at once ~2-3 days into primary to eliminate opening the fermentor an extra time and allow it to build up a CO2 blanket. Otherwise, looks good to me. Lets us know how it goes, cheers!

what's your recommended whirlpool temp / time/ amount? will definitely switch up the dry hop times. will also be doing closed transfer to keg to condition.

 

[dward85]

For a first brew it looks pretty simple and that's what you want. I would say the only boogey man could be a stuck mash with all of that oaty goodness, but it looks like you're aware of that.

thank you for the feedback! i am hoping to fight off the stuck mash with the rice hulls - do you think i need more than 1 pound?

 

[3 Dawg Night]

IBU's are low for an IPA, right? You could call it a "Hazy NEAPA."

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

what's your recommended whirlpool temp / time/ amount? will definitely switch up the dry hop times. will also be doing closed transfer to keg to condition.

chill to ~150-160, stop chiller, add 2-3oz Cashmere and allow to whirlpool for 20-30 minutes. Chill quickly to pitching temps. I'm glad to know you're doing a closed transfer. I was going to suggest it but wasn't sure what your setup allowed for. Sounds like you're on the right track. Cheers!

 

[dward85]

chill to ~150-160, stop chiller, add 2-3oz Cashmere and allow to whirlpool for 20-30 minutes. Chill quickly to pitching temps. I'm glad to know you're doing a closed transfer. I was going to suggest it but wasn't sure what your setup allowed for. Sounds like you're on the right track. Cheers!

Will do! Thank you kindly for the advice!!

 

[kirbcheck]

Looks good. I usually aim for a min of 65 IBUs for an IPA. But that's just personal preference. That said, lower bitterness and high aroma is definitely on trend, which is what you'll achieve here.

I appreciate your use of restraint. Many times a first recipe will have a dozen grains and 5 hop varieties. Barring unforeseen circumstances, you'll have an excellent beer here.

 

[jdauria]

I would move the boil hops to whirlpool...chill to around 170 after boil, add and then let sit for 20-30 minutes. NEIPA's should not have any bitterness which you get from boil hops, it should be all flavor and aroma. I would also double the dry hops. Are you adjusting water at all?

 

[dward85]

Looks good. I usually aim for a min of 65 IBUs for an IPA. But that's just personal preference. That said, lower bitterness and high aroma is definitely on trend, which is what you'll achieve here.

I appreciate your use of restraint. Many times a first recipe will have a dozen grains and 5 hop varieties. Barring unforeseen circumstances, you'll have an excellent beer here.

my goal for this is more of the NEIPA style which i tend to find have lower IBU and little to no bitterness so thats why i tried to keep that value so low.

thank you for the kind words. i am still starting out (10th overall brew - 1st personal receipe) so i am following everything i have read telling me to keep it simple. really appreciate the feedback!

I would move the boil hops to whirlpool...chill to around 170 after boil, add and then let sit for 20-30 minutes. NEIPA's should not have any bitterness which you get from boil hops, it should be all flavor and aroma. I would also double the dry hops. Are you adjusting water at all?

I will definitely do that - i am hoping for little to no bitterness. I will be adjusting water as i just got my water report back from Ward Labs today - now hopefully I can figure out how to read it and input into brewfather properly.

 

[dward85]

I would move the boil hops to whirlpool...chill to around 170 after boil, add and then let sit for 20-30 minutes. NEIPA's should not have any bitterness which you get from boil hops, it should be all flavor and aroma. I would also double the dry hops. Are you adjusting water at all?

Just got my water adjustments into brewfather. Mind taking a look?

 

[jdauria]

Just got my water adjustments into brewfather. Mind taking a look?

Wow, you have pretty good water there. Adjustments look reasonable. pH is a little high though, I like 5.2-5.3 for NEIPA's...add a little more Calcium Chloride or adjust with lactic acid if you have some or add some acidulated malt, even if you just drop to 5.4, it will be good.

 

[dward85]

Wow, you have pretty good water there. Adjustments look reasonable. pH is a little high though, I like 5.2-5.3 for NEIPA's...add a little more Calcium Chloride or adjust with lactic acid if you have some or add some acidulated malt, even if you just drop to 5.4, it will be good.

i really appreciate all your help!

i believe i made most of the suggested adjustments in this thread and have come up with this:

https://share.brewfather.app/iOUQAdisJC7g8o
I just want to make a decent, drinkable, properly colored hazy neipa....hopefully this gets me most of those things. As for water adjustments, since i am sparging, would you fill the Anvil Foundry to the recommended water level (7.7 total including sparge), then add the calcium etc, and then remove a gallon for sparging? Also one suggestion was to remove all hops from the boil, when I did that it took the IBU's down to around 9 and I felt that was too low so i kept the 10 min addition.

 

[jdauria]

i really appreciate all your help!

i believe i made most of the suggested adjustments in this thread and have come up with this:

https://share.brewfather.app/iOUQAdisJC7g8o
I just want to make a decent, drinkable, properly colored hazy neipa....hopefully this gets me most of those things. As for water adjustments, since i am sparging, would you fill the Anvil Foundry to the recommended water level (7.7 total including sparge), then add the calcium etc, and then remove a gallon for sparging? Also one suggestion was to remove all hops from the boil, when I did that it took the IBU's down to around 9 and I felt that was too low so i kept the 10 min addition.

You're welcome! Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, looks good. Not a Brewfather user but I know BeerSmith, before their latest version, struggled with IBU's with whirlpooling., so yeah it looks funny that IBU's are so low in a NEIPA, when really you still get some bitterness from whirlpool hops depending on temps. Good luck, post back when it's done to let us know how it came out!

 

[IslandLizard]

i believe i made most of the suggested adjustments in this thread and have come up with this:

Looks much better now!
Your Sulfate is higher than Chloride. In NEIPAs we're usually targeting it the other way around, to reduce perception of bitterness while enhancing softness.

Don't forget to make a good yeast starter and pitch the required amount of cells for 1.074!
Are you mitigating the intrusion/exposure of air (O2)? Especially during dry hopping and cold crashing.

How are you packaging this? Into 100% liquid pre-purged kegs, we hope...

 

[BarkingSpider]

thank you for the feedback! i am hoping to fight off the stuck mash with the rice hulls - do you think i need more than 1 pound?

I hope not! :-D I don't know anything about your brewing rig, but I would like to think that between your extra rice hulls and the rest of the grain bill you should be okay. You could always do a protein rest to cut down the gum of the oats. I've never had to do one, but then again I've never done a heavy oat bill (yet).

http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/the-protein-rest-and-modification

 

[IslandLizard]

thank you for the feedback! i am hoping to fight off the stuck mash with the rice hulls - do you think i need more than 1 pound?

If you've never seen rice hulls before, they're very light weight and take up a huge volume! 1/2 a pound is probably enough, but if you're recirculation in the Anvil, may as well play it safe with the whole pound. If you recirculate the mash, go slow.

Flaked Oats... You can use "Quaker Oats" from the supermarket, or their generic version of it. No need to pay $1.60+ a pound at your brew store, while they may be stale as can be from sitting in a bin since forever.
Either Old Fashioned (they're just rolled, not "flaked"), Quick Oats, or (unflavored) Instant Oats are suitable. The more processed they were, the quicker they break down in the mash. But all with the same result after an hour-long mash.

I use Old Fashioned Quaker Oats because I like to eat them too. I used to buy 50# sacks, but now get 10 pound boxes at Sam's (Costco and BJ's have them too) for ~$9. This is actually the best price/deal right now, and they are fresh as can be. Inside each 10# box are 2 sealed 5# food grade barrier bags.

Whatever version of flaked you use, they don't need to be milled, but it may speed up break down in the mash somewhat when milling the Old Fashioned (rolled) ones.

Now using raw oats, steel cut oats, groats, or malted oats are a different story...

 

[dward85]

thank you all for the feedback in putting this recipe together. i got the beer in the keg earlier this week (tuesday) and i tried my first glass on saturday and it came out pretty great. very happy with the taste, color and mouth feel.