Paulaner
Well-Known Member
might be for unrealistic mash conditions, such as floured malt
You can research MEBAK "Brew-Technical Analysis Methods. and find out all the details of how this conversion time comes about.
might be for unrealistic mash conditions, such as floured malt
You need to turn off the Sophos Web Intelligence Service on your work computer.
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Don't ask me how I know this...
Very interesting. I liked the use of sour beer to acidify the mash. On what basis are you making the claim that you are the first to use it, 'Being the first we know of that started using it'. I doubt this can be historically substantiated.
You can research MEBAK "Brew-Technical Analysis Methods. and find out all the details of how this conversion time comes about.
Super interesting article.
When asked about lactic acid, he became almost frosty, choosing his words with the care of a Soviet diplomat: Theres a number of elements we dont talk about, as Im sure youll understand. One change he was happy to discuss was the reduction in dissolved oxygen in the beer over the last 20 years: Dissolved oxygen is a total no-no, it imparts off flavors. If you drank a beer with dissolved oxygen in high concentration youd say, its off, its not right.
I found a quotation from an article entitled, Guinness secrets revealed.
Key finding #1 Guinness does use a sour blend for their stout
No ratios or processes were described, but the brewers did cop to the fact that part of the key feature of Guinness Stout was a sharp acidity contributed by lactic acid.
https://www.fivebladesbrewing.com/guinness-secrets-revealed/
Lately I've been experimenting with brewing with the local very-alkaline tapwater, and acidifying with lactic acid. I'm using 88% lactic acid right now because I had a bottle of it already, will switch to Sauergut soon.
I have no hope of doing the whole low dissolved O2 thing with my current setup, but I've been drinking a lot of German commercial beers lately and brewing German-style ales, and I think minimizing dissolved oxygen might be important to the style... Would implementing some of the low oxy practices benefit my beer, or is it an all-or-nothing thing? (I mentioned the Sauergut because of its oxygen-scavenging)
What aspects of the process do you feel you couldnt adhere to? What is your current setup?
My current setup is an 8 gallon stainless steel kettle (was using a 22 quart aluminum canner until recently) and BIAB mostly 4 gallon batches but sometimes 3 gallons. For low-gravity beers I do a full volume mash, for high gravity beers I mash with 4 gallons and then sparge with whatever the boiloff plus grain absorption loss is predicted to me.
The water here is horrendously alkaline and I'm focusing on that right now. Don't know if I'll have to resort to pretreating the water with lime or not. Boiling would also take care of that, and fits in with lodo...
I boil, typically for 60 minutes, then cool with a too-small copper immersion chiller. And I never can get the trub and whatever hop matter to settle out in the whirlpool, so almost all of that goes in the fermentor. I do use a hops sock, so there's not much hops debris.
Fermentor is either a plastic carboy for the duration, or a brew bucket and then transfer to a carboy after a few days to a week. (just recently started using the bucket; it's so I can top-crop the yeast) If I ever brew a lager, I'll probably use a glass carboy and keep it in that until bottling.
And I use bottles, not kegs. Lots of points where significant O2 can enter the system. I'm not all that worried about staling because unless it's a big beer that needs some aging, I drink it or give it away within a month or two.
My current setup is an 8 gallon stainless steel kettle (was using a 22 quart aluminum canner until recently) and BIAB mostly 4 gallon batches but sometimes 3 gallons. For low-gravity beers I do a full volume mash, for high gravity beers I mash with 4 gallons and then sparge with whatever the boiloff plus grain absorption loss is predicted to me.
DC solar pumps are a very affordable option. They are typically available at up to 100 °C, have NPT threads, and provide decent enough Gpm to move wort for transfers and to recirc. The added advantage of being able to electrically throttle the pump with minimal circuitry is also useful.Direct fire plus a 1650W heat stick. I don't have a pump. My new kettle does have a drain valve.
I would go with either RO or Distilled. Its cheap enough and it gives you a clean slate. At a certain point, using your tap water is just too much of a hindrance. Your talking 10 gallons at most so <= $10 in distilled water added to the batch.The water here is horrendously alkaline and I'm focusing on that right now. Don't know if I'll have to resort to pretreating the water with lime or not. Boiling would also take care of that, and fits in with lodo...
Adding a pump will help with your whirlpool. You may want to consider a CFC. Chill times will go way down and if you use BTB/gallotannins, you can help to counteract the effects of the copper chiller.I boil, typically for 60 minutes, then cool with a too-small copper immersion chiller. And I never can get the trub and whatever hop matter to settle out in the whirlpool, so almost all of that goes in the fermentor. I do use a hops sock, so there's not much hops debris.
You could bottle with some extract remaining. That would scrub DO but comes with some added sediment in the bottles. The advantages of course are quick, natural carbonation and active yeast to scavenge DO.And I use bottles, not kegs. Lots of points where significant O2 can enter the system. I'm not all that worried about staling because unless it's a big beer that needs some aging, I drink it or give it away within a month or two.
As long as your arent pulverizing the husk you should be okay.And one more thing, I use a Corona grain mill.
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