The 1.020 Curse

[944play]

with heffy's the most common problem that leads to under-attenuation is temperature. They really need to be at and stay at 75F to get down as low as they advertise.

I got 82% attenuation with 3068 at 62F!

 

[nathan]

just last night I realized my hydrometer was reading 7 points high. I tested with distilled to confirm, and today went into town, got a new one, and compared. Sure enough, new one is fine.

That explains my 1.024 reading last night on a "finished" pilsner.

 

[spage]

Have had this same situation repeatedly... not to say that my brews have been bad, most of them have been quite good actually, but I've brewed about 15 beers with FGs between 1.016 and 1.024. I've tried muntons, safale, wyeast vials and wyeast activators. I've tried normal and late extract additions. I've tried liquid and dry extract. I've tried 2 brands of extract. I've tried two hydrometers. I've tried partial mash. I've tried ice baths and immersion chillers. I've tried fermenting at virtually every temperature between 58 and 78. No luck. The only thing that seemed to affect it some was the amylase extract, which is a last resort.

Things that have been in common:
Electric stove
3-gallon boil
Lack of O2 aeration (aside from pouring between buckets)

I am purchasing a turkey fryer to do even, full boils on this week. Will let you know how it all goes - at this point I'm ready to be done with extract and just go all-grain.

 

[nathan]

is your extract old? What type is it? I hear Breiss has highest fermentability.
In my case a good starter, all grain, and temperature control works well. A d-rest helps. Also of course testing samples at the right temps, etc.

When you buy the frier, try to get the one that will let you use a converted keg or any large pot (flat top of some sort). You will very likely want to use it for other things in the future and that will make it more versatile.

 

[OctopusInk]

This is a noob question but how (and Why) do you constantly check your gravity? I haven't been checking it since my first batch, and I just took the OG on the heffe I made on friday 1.050
Do you just throw the Hydrometer in the bucket or what?

 

[FreakinA]

I also have the damn 1.020 problem! Out of 7 brews only 2 have made it past 1.020. My arrogant bastard clone is there right now after 30 days and its killing me. My extract is breiss poured from the tank at the LHBS, and I used 1056 wyeast in this one.

 

[nowise]

On my last extract brew before I vowed to move to AG, I ran into the 1.020 wall as well. This is my second batch ever, so if course I made some mistakes.

6.6 lbs LME
2 lbs DME
1 lb crystal steeped
Some hops
Wyeast smack pack 1056 (no starter, d'oh!)
OG 1.065

I had the same 3 conditions as listed above (Electric stove, 3-gallon boil, Lack of O2 aeration except for some shaking) along with a higher than optimal pitching temperature. (my wort chiller came in the mail today!)

Still tastes damn good, just a tad too sweet and the ABV didn't go as high as I wanted.

 

[WBC]

I think this thread is mis-named. There is no such thing as a 1.020 curse in brewing. The reasons for this gravity may be.....

• Too many non-fermentable's.
• Not enough viable yeast pitched.
• Fermentation temperature varies too much or is too high.
• Mash temperature too high (all Grain).

 

[FreakinA]

But why always around 1.020? MY recipe was an extract recipe from my LHBS, So I'm doubting the too many unfermentables. It was extract so no mash temperature varying, and I live in southern AZ so not temperature change really. I used a fresh smackpack with Mr. Malty sized starter that was going CRAZY when I pitched it. I just dont get it.

 

[nowise]

I'm guessing that boiling extracts for too long creates too many non-fermentables through carmelization, but who knows. If you really wanted to be scientific you would have to make the same recipe multiple times trying things like a late extract addition, yeast starter, more adequate aeration, etc.

 

[spage]

is your extract old? What type is it? I hear Breiss has highest fermentability.
In my case a good starter, all grain, and temperature control works well. A d-rest helps. Also of course testing samples at the right temps, etc.

When you buy the frier, try to get the one that will let you use a converted keg or any large pot (flat top of some sort). You will very likely want to use it for other things in the future and that will make it more versatile.

I've tried Munton's, Briess, and whatever comes with the Brewer's Best kits. I'm starting to think that it has something to do with the electric stove generating "hot-spots" in the malt and caramelizing some sugars, as amylase enzyme seems to fix it. Has everyone else having this problem been using an electric stove? Any 1.020 people with gas burners?

PS - Thanks for the tip on the fryer!!

 

[WBC]

But why always around 1.020? MY recipe was an extract recipe from my LHBS, So I'm doubting the too many unfermentables. It was extract so no mash temperature varying, and I live in southern AZ so not temperature change really. I used a fresh smackpack with Mr. Malty sized starter that was going CRAZY when I pitched it. I just dont get it.

If your fermentation temperature is too high that can be a problem too. If you write a log of everything you do them you can compare between brews and find what works. Trying to remember things in your memory is not really reliable. I do think that some extracts are not as fermentable as other brands. This is one advantage of all grain as we have complete control over the mash and can control fermentables/nonfermentables.

 

[shafferpilot]

All of my all-grains finish right where I want 'em. All of my extracts finish higher than I want them. That answers the whole thing, doesn't it? Has nothing to do with the boil or late extract addition. Fermentation temp can have a big effect, but with yeasts like safale 5 or Nottingham, the difference doesn't happen till you're way out of the temp range. Use a little amylaze (emphasis on the little) or switch to all grain. That's how you fix it.

 

[spage]

All-grain is certainly on my task-list, and something I am working toward piece-by-piece. There is, however, a large community of extract brewers who have not had this problem. If you're out there, speak up! Are you using gas stoves?! I'd like to pin this down to a cause.

Thanks,

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

I Have The Cure!!!!
Simply brew an Imperial Stout It would likely have a FG of >= 1.020, so you'd be all set !!!:rockin:

Seriously, I had a brew that just finished up tonight. I thought it was stuck, so I threw a little nutrient in there, warmed it to 68, gave it a rocking. The next day, it started fermenting again. I dropped to 1.014.

 

[Austin_]

My most recent batch (belgian wit) has been stuck at 1.020 for the past week. It was a mini-mash, though, and I'm figuring the mash temperature was off and produced a few more unfermentables than normal.

lrr81765: The stalled batch was a 2.5 gallon boil on an electric stove, if that helps. I didn't do a late addition as I wasn't all that concerned with the color and there was only 4 lbs of dme in the recipe.

 

[DeathBrewer]

i used to finish 1.020 all the time with extract batches. extract needs much more care than all-grain, it seems. not only does it leave more unfermentables, but it seems the yeast have trouble with it in general.

don't be afraid to rouse that yeast every once in a while! a swirl every other day for the first week can really make a difference! and don't be afraid of oxidation...unless you're shaking the hell out of it, the co2 will protect it

 

[0202]

NOTE: it is not recommended to make starters with dry yeast, as it could do more harm than good.

The only warning of starting dry yeast I've seen regards poofing in John Palmer's book:

"Note: Lallemand/Danstar does not recommend proofing after rehydration of their yeast because they have optimized their yeast's nutrional reserves for quick starting in the main wort. Proofing expends some of those reserves."

Is there any specific reason not to start dry yeast?

 

[Pivzavod]

My version of 1.020 curse - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/second-coming-krausen-93030/

 

[ak47clown]

well it looks like i've joined the ranks of this prestigious club with my first brew as well. I'm headed to my lhbs tomorrow to see what they recommend but I'm gonna specifically see about the enzyme that was recommended earlier in this thread or inquire about the beano!

Real brief here's my situation:
-SG was 1.040
-made a starter with dry yeast
-used a gas stove (though suffered boilover twice)
-was in primary for a week at around 55-60
-racked to secondary
-after seeing no change for a week in secondary, moved to slightly warmer area of house where it sits today\
-checked hydrometer in water (was brand new but used tap and not distilled) and seemed to read properly

I find it so odd/ironic that so many people seem to have this issue but i'll update with any success/failure i have in fixing this

 

[ChefMichael01]

AK47, I had this problem with a couple brews as well. You may want to try slightly higher fermentation temps (depending on what you're brewing and what yeast strain you're using) but 63-68 would be a good level. Also, leave in the primary for longer than a week (IMHO) as when you transfer to a secondary you are losing a good amount of the yeast/nutrients the yeast needs to ferment. Secondary is for clearing/conditioning, not fermenting.

Hope this helps.

 

[ak47clown]

yeah i've been getting a lot of good info from the noob forum on my trials and tribulations with my first brew. For my next batch i'll definitely keep the fermenter upstairs where it stays between 68-70 and also keep it in the primary longer before transferring over for conditioning.

 

[jmiracle]

I just wanted to say I made an oatmeal stout using dry Safale S-04 sprinkled right into the wort, it finished at 1.020 as well, this fermentation happened so quick I actually thought it never took off but 10 days later there it is at 1.020...I'm actually happy because I like sweet stouts, hopefully it'll turn out good in the bottle.

 

[Rhymenoceros]

I'm having this problem too. Gas stove, liquid yeast I shake the fermenter to aerate. I'm going to try starters and see if that helps.

 

[ssabin]

I joined the club today as well.

I don't usually check my gravity between pitching and bottling. On my first two batches, I just let it rip for 3+ weeks and bottled. Both of those batches finished about 1.12 and 1.11, if I recall correctly.

Those first two batches used different yeasts - liquid yeats on the first batch, pitched directly, and the second was dry yeast rehydrated and pitched.

This problem batch is a Belgian Wit, an extract recipe from my LHBS. I think the dry yeast was Nottingham, but I have no record of that. My SG was on the higher end of the range, and I filled the fermenter to 5.5 gallons instead of 5 gallons. I added the DME early, and LME wheat late. I also noted that my temp strip on my ale pail showed the beer to be at 59 deg, so I moved the pail to a small bathroom where I will keep the door closed and the heat should keep the ale a bit warmer.

It's been 22 days, and perhaps too late for moving to a warmer location? Is it worth it to pitch a new packet of yeast? I shook up the pail a bit during and after moving it.

I'm inclined to give it a couple more days at a warmer temp, although I'm consdiering pitching another packet.

 

[avaserfi]

When I brewed extract I never finished far below 1.020. The lowest was 1.018, but most were dead on 1.020. I think it is the temperature that my DME was mashed at, as soon as I went to AG I had much more control over attenuation. Just putting it out there, that it might be beyond the brewers control in this case.

 

[ssabin]

OK, I had some quick, good luck with moving the ale pail to the downstairs bathroom. I had the door closed all night and a halogen paint light in there for heat. I walked in this morning, keeping inn mind that the furnace had just kicked about 30 minutes prior to bring the house back up to 68 degrees, and the bathroom was TOASTY warm.

I checked the beer temp and it was 76 deg F, up from 59 when I moved it. I noticed no bubbles in the airlock, and gave it another shake. I returned about 15 minutes later and noticed the temp had risen to 77 deg so I opened the door to let that room cool down a bit. I gave the pail another shake, and noticed bubbles coming out of the airlock. I watched as the moving beer stopped shaking and saw that I was still getting a bubble every 10 seconds. I came back in 5 minutes later to make sure the movement had fully subsided and it was still bubbling - slowly, but regularly.

I'll keep it warmer (but maybe not so warm - I'll shoot for 70-72) for a few days and hopefully it will finish up!

Now if I had only written down which dry yeast came in this kit, I'd note that it is more tempermental about temperatures.

At any rate, looks like I won't need to pitch more yeast, but rather just wake up the ones that are already there!

 

[ThatGuyRyan]

I had all of my first beers end at 1.020 but the last few I changed things up a bit.

1st I aerated it a lot more before pitching now. Before I would dump it back and forth about 3-4 times now I do it until I have so much foam I cant anymore. Probably 10-12 times. A air stone will be next!

2nd my fermenting temp before was 72 constant with 7-10 days in primary then secondary. Now I start it off at 68 for 10-14 days then raise it to 71-72 for another 7-10 days.

After doing this my last three beers were all 1.012 - 1.016. And also note I like BIG Belgians! Most were 1.070+ to start so for me the lower temp really helped. More alcohol and less of a sweet taste in the final beer.

I still secondary the really big ones for a week or two just to clear them but others I just primary for 3 weeks or so then keg/bottle.

 

[ssabin]

OK, this seems crazy. After finding I was stuck at 1.020 on the day I planne don bottling, I got it going again by moving it to a warmer location. Now it's been a bit more than 6 days and it's still bubbling every 20 seconds. Is there a point where I should worry about what's going on and check on it? I generally don't open iot up until bottling day. I've not heard of bubbling be a sign of anything but fermentation though, so I'm guessing patience is in order and that it will drop off soon.

 

[doctorfishbrain]

I keep getting fermentation stuck at 1.020, with extract/liquid yeast. ..Recently. Odd. I have been brewing since 1979.This never happened before recently. I went back to using Lee Beadle meathod of boiling water, adding ingredients and boil for 10 mintues. I get FG of 4-12 , with SG of 38-58 I don't know why, but recently I get stuck at 1.020 most of the time with liquid yeasts. . I am going back to the old Beadlebrau method, it works all the time and tastes great.