Test batch (2.5-3) questions

[Moody_Copperpot]

I've been doing AG for over a year now and am just now thinking about doing some 2.5-3 gallon test batches, particularly SMaSH recipes so that I can get the flavor of individual hops nailed down a little better. A few questions for those who have done these:
1) Do you still use a full packet of yeast? Say US-05. I figured it probably couldn't hurt to do so.
2) As far as secondary fermentation goes, do I even bother? I figure the amount of headspace in the secondary would pose a high risk of oxidation.

 

[asterix404]

1) Yes, use a full packet of yeast. It is nearly impossible to over pitch.

2) Don't bother with secondary. This is not a long process and you won't dry hop. Actually I forgot about a few SMASH beers I did and I need to get them into kegs.

 

[dunnright00]

I just did a 2 gal batch and I only used a half packet of 05. In hindsight I prolly should have just used the whole thing. I also have a 3 gal batch in the fermenter right now that I used a whole vial of 007 but I didn't make a starter.

No to secondary, unless I'm going to dry hop.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

I just did a 2 gal batch and I only used a half packet of 05. In hindsight I prolly should have just used the whole thing. I also have a 3 gal batch in the fermenter right now that I used a whole vial of 007 but I didn't make a starter.

No to secondary, unless I'm going to dry hop.

Interesting. So for smaller batches a starter isn't necessary? I know very little about liquid yeast.

 

[cacique]

Can you ferment 2.5-3 gallons in a 6 gallon carboy/bucket?

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Can you ferment 2.5-3 gallons in a 6 gallon carboy/bucket?

I wonder this too. I'm assuming a primary would be fine, as the co2 would purge any oxygen from the vessel?

 

[ReverseApacheMaster]

I just fermented a 2.5 gallon batch in a 7.9 gallon bucket although I have done several three gallon batches in it. You just need to be careful that you let the CO2 layer rest over the beer. Don't open the bucket constantly or move the fermenter too much.

 

[iowabrew]

I also ferment 2.5gal batches in buckets. Never any problems. Like said above try not to open it.

 

[cacique]

Is fermentation duration the same as a 5 gallon? Smash recipes?

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Is fermentation duration the same as a 5 gallon? Smash recipes?

I would think so, yes.
SMaSH= Single Malt and Single Hop. So you'd use 2 row and one specialty malt, like crystal 40 ( and I think carapils can still be included) and then one type of hop for all of your hop additions. The idea is to really get a clear idea of what that hop tastes like with that grain. I've never done this, but I want to start trying the same grain bill with different hops, to get a better understanding of the various hop characteristics.

 

[iowabrew]

My ferments are always done around 7 day mark. I still leave batch on yeast for three weeks tho with no problems.
Just remind yourself however that airlock activity isn't a indicator of fermentation cuz more head space = more time needed for co2 to fill it up, thus taking longer for bubbles to start coming through airlock.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Great, thanks again. Can't wait to brew my first test batch!

 

[dunnright00]

Interesting. So for smaller batches a starter isn't necessary? I know very little about liquid yeast.

You know, for years I would use vials of White Labs with no starter. Maybe didn't get the FG I was looking for, but I think that had more to do with lack of proper oxygen at the beginning.

It's more of a laziness rather than scientific approach.

I think if it was a wyeast smack pack I would still do a starter.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

What volume of sugar should be used to carbonate 2.5-3 gallons? Meaning corn or cane.

 

[C-Rider]

What volume of sugar should be used to carbonate 2.5-3 gallons? Meaning corn or cane.

BeerSmith has a calculator.

You can also use this:

The Beer Recipator - Carbonation

 

[erikhild59]

I would think so, yes.
SMaSH= Single Malt and Single Hop. So you'd use 2 row and one specialty malt, like crystal 40 ( and I think carapils can still be included) and then one type of hop for all of your hop additions. The idea is to really get a clear idea of what that hop tastes like with that grain. I've never done this, but I want to start trying the same grain bill with different hops, to get a better understanding of the various hop characteristics.

Isn't a SMASH just base malt and a single hop?

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Isn't a SMASH just base malt and a single hop?

I always thought it was a base and a single specialty malt, and a single hop.
Either way, there are four of us all brewing small batches with the same grain bill, but each using a different hop for all of our additions.
I would think just two row and hops would taste pretty crappy.

 

[JonM]

I do this all the time. Usually, I do a 3 gal batch, leave .25 gal of gunk in the fermenter, leave .25 gal of trub in the fermenter, and wind up with 2.5 gals (about 28 bottles) of good clean wort.

As for yeast, I sometimes use a whole packet of dry, but almost always I use a 1L starter of washed liquid. Mr. Malty usually lists 1L as the proper amount.

Anyway, good luck and cheers!

 

[JonM]

Know what else is fun? Make a 5- gal batch, split it across two fermenters and use different yeasts in each. Like one with US-05, one with S-04. Or one with a Belgian strain and one with something clean, etc.

 

[DSmith]

3 gallon batch all grain brewer here.

This yeast calc (YeastCalc Yeast Calculator) gives the same results as Mr. Malty but I think it's better specifically for small batches because it gives the calculated yeast cells at the end of the starter - inputing the starter volume. If you apply the 1L starter size as a minimum to achieve inoculation rate 50-100 million/ml, and you use a stirplate, this calculator shows how much you may be overpitching.

It's really no extra effort or significant DME cost to make the starter too big at 1L and only pitch a certain amount of that starter to get the right amount of heathy yeast for a small batch.

3 gallons of 1.040 ale won't need a starter.
3 gallons of 1.070 ale will be about right with a 1L stirred starter
3 gallson of 1.055 ale will show more yeast required than in a Wyeast pack and will need only a portion of a starter.

 

[ShaLaH]

Just chiming in. I only do 2.5-3 Gallon batches because I like having a variety of home brews to drink rather than having 2+ cases of the same beer, plus I like to get my growlers filled with some craft beer too.

I use 3 Gallon BB's or 3 Gallon Carboy to ferment in, I've read that too much headspace can be a problem. I ferment everything for 3 weeks and dry hop in the primary - so far so good.

I also do a 1L starter for all my batches and the beers are coming out real nice.

The other bonus is that you can control ferm temp in a mini-fridge.

Cheers!

 

[JonM]

My 2.75 gal collection back in November. All in bottles and drinkable now. Love the variety.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Yup, the plan is to have 3 gallons at the end of the boil. By the time we lose volume to yeast cake and trub, we'll be at 2.5-2.75.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

How much water do people use to dissolve the priming sugar for bottling? Still two cups, or less since its a smaller batch.

 

[Calichusetts]

I use a half-pack of dry yeast with no rehydration for my 1 gallons, they still get a pretty violent fermentation. As for priming, I use honey (3-4 Tablespoons) and basically just use enough water to dilute it (1 cup)

 

[DSmith]

About a cup to12oz of water for a 3 gallon batch. Just enough to dissolve the sugar when swirling it my smallest pot.

 

[iowabrew]

When i prime my 2.5 gal batches for bottling i always just use a ratio of 1:2. Half cup of sugar gets 1.5 cups of water. Never had a problem doing it this way.


Also going back to the yeast thing. I've always just pitched a whole pack of US05. Twice now i've made a starter. Once for a lager and once for Denny's Wry Smile with a pack of 7 month old 1450. I think a small starter for 3 gal batches over 1.060 is just cheap insurance even though it'd most likey do ok without.

 

[spenghali]

I always thought it was a base and a single specialty malt, and a single hop.
Either way, there are four of us all brewing small batches with the same grain bill, but each using a different hop for all of our additions.
I would think just two row and hops would taste pretty crappy.

I think adding a specialty malt defeats the whole purpose of a SMaSH recipe. How are you going to clearly tell the flavor of the base malt when there is also flavor from a specialty?

I have been using my 5 g secondary for 2.5-3 gallon batches. It's great, wwhen all my large fermenters are full, it's a good opportunity to make a test batch using an empty secondary.

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

The point of this experiment was really to see how the exact grain bill tasted with different hops. Plus, if I use the same exact recipe over and over again and just change out the hop, I really dont see a problem if my goal is to hone my hop tasting skills (which it is at the moment).

 

[Moody_Copperpot]

Oh and I did another test batch for a different beer where the OG was 1.080. I know that US-05 can tear that apart, but just for insurance I added another half packet of 05. So 1.5 packets total. Is that overkill for a test batch? Am I going to end up with one big yeast cake or something crazy?