Technique to Dumping Yeast out of Conical Bottom?

[zinger084]

So after 8 days of fermenting a 10 gallon batch, I have about 1 gallon of yeast sitting at the bottom of my conical. I used my 1-1/4" full port stainless ball valve to attempt to dump it all out, and upon opening, it came out quite fast with a lot of beer mixed in. I expected it to be more "sludgey."

My problem is that the yeast level is still almost at 1 gallon, and I have about 9.75 gallons of beer in the conical. It seemed like the yeast didn't come out near as much as the beer sorda sifting its way to the valve and out the bottom (quite quick I might add on a 1-1/4" valve).

My racking arm is about at the 0.5 gallon level, but inside I have a PET tube that goes down to the bottom where the yeast is.

So, here goes.

I cannot get the beer out through the racking arm since there is a tube that's stuck down in the yeast. Once this batch is out of there, I am going to make the racking tube inside at the 1.0 gallon level instead of near the bottom since that's where it looks like the yeast tops out.

Do I have to wait until the yeast sorda firms up more, so I can dump it more efficiently with less beer loss? Do you normally have this much beer loss with a dump valve when you drain the trub/yeast?

 

[Buildmark]

try using a wide enough clear tube connected to it where you can control the flow better with it but open the conical all the way.

 

[zinger084]

So I have dumped the yeast 3 times now and I started with 10.25 gallons total, and I am now down to 8 gallons. The yeast is still settling in the bottom. I have to be doing something wrong. Every time I dump the yeast I can still see more inside the bottom of the conical.

This is pretty discouraging because it's making me want to go back to buckets. Any suggestions or ideas?

 

[tdiowa]

Just a couple of notes on your yeast dumping. I think you are on the right course by making the racking tube inside at the 1.0 gallon level instead having it down towards the bottom. I would definately get rid of the Pet tubing.

Another thought which is what I do, you might try is to dump your yeast through the racking port. That way you will know that you have a clean, yeast free path to your racking port. For what its worth I only dump my yeast in my conical once. A couple of days before I get ready to rack my beer I open up my racking port and let a quart jar fill up with beer and then close it up. On racking day I put on my racking cane and fill my cornelius kegs.

On racking day if I am going to do any yeast harvesting I then dump a quart of boiled water (cooled) in the conical after I have racked. Seal it up and shake it up well and then let it sit for a couple of hours. I then put my quart under the bottom valve and open it up slowly and fill the jar. I then seal it up and refrigerate. Once everything is settled (week or so) I pour off the beer layer, shake the jar real well and pour into pint jars.

Just a couple of thoughts.

TD

 

[Yuri_Rage]

Also, tap the sides of the fermenter to get the yeast to settle toward the bottom. You might even consider using a small rubber or plastic mallet for the job. You should be getting thick yeast slurry when you dump, not gallons upon gallons of beer.

 

[zinger084]

You should be getting thick yeast slurry when you dump, not gallons upon gallons of beer.

The thing is that I am getting all yeast coming out... not clear beer. It's like this batch was loaded with yeast that is still settling out. I am going to try the racking arm idea by cranking it open until it turns clear, and then putting it into the kegs. Hopefully this will work out.

Next time I am going to cut the PET tubing to be just above the gallon mark as well...

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

I'm guessing you are using a plastic conical, but my experience is only with SS but I'm sure it still applies equally. The yeast tend to cling to the walls in of the SS a bit (especially depending on strain) and I do what Yuri says and tap the cone with a mallet a few times before I dump the yeast. I would guess that the plastic maybe isn't as smooth as the SS and the yeast are able to cling to the cone/walls better, which may be giving you the illusion that it looks really full of yeast when it really isn't. I've never been able to see how high my yeast level is in the cone so it never really crossed my mind. Again, I am not familiar with plastic conicals but if you are having problems with a yeast plug in your racking arm could your pressurize the conical to force it through? If not could you back flush the racking arm with co2? Back flushing might be the easiest/safest method and it would likely only take a few psi to flush it out.

 

[zinger084]

I'm guessing you are using a plastic conical, but my experience is only with SS but I'm sure it still applies equally. The yeast tend to cling to the walls in of the SS a bit (especially depending on strain) and I do what Yuri says and tap the cone with a mallet a few times before I dump the yeast. I would guess that the plastic maybe isn't as smooth as the SS and the yeast are able to cling to the cone/walls better, which may be giving you the illusion that it looks really full of yeast when it really isn't. I've never been able to see how high my yeast level is in the cone so it never really crossed my mind. Again, I am not familiar with plastic conicals but if you are having problems with a yeast plug in your racking arm could your pressurize the conical to force it through? If not could you back flush the racking arm with co2? Back flushing might be the easiest/safest method and it would likely only take a few psi to flush it out.

Yes, I am using plastic. I am going to try the hammer method and then open the racking port until the beer turns clear and begin filling kegs. I haven't had a problem with the racking arm plugging up, and I can't pressurize it with CO2 because the lid doesn't fit tight. I am going to try and rack tonight and will update as necessary...

 

[zinger084]

Just an update... It's been almost a month since the initial yeast pitch and I sampled the beer yesterday from the conical. It tastes good and I think it's ready to keg. The yeast has finally settle to the point where it isn't a huge dump when I open the racking arm.

I still have one concern. This is the first time I have seen yeast "in suspension" in the beer that still hasn't settled out. This will probably come out through the racking arm when I keg. Will this yeast settle out in the keg and not leave scooby snacks randomly in the beer?

 

[Conehead]

I have noticed the same thing when I rack from my conical into kegs. No problem if you have extra kegs. I use Gelatin in the fresh kegs and after a few days I re-rack to new kegs. Clear beer. I use a 14.5 gallon conical and I see bits and pieces right to the end of the second keg when I rack. It doesn't bother me anymore. Gelatin settles it all out.



Conehead

 

[zinger084]

So I transferred last night and I am getting a little happier about having this conical. The racking arm made it easy to put it into the kegs. Now, I just have to cut the internal racking arm tube extension a little shorter so it doesn't sit so close to the bottom (and try to make the lid air tight). I think once these two things are done, I will be a happy conical fermenter.

Side note... this conical has side slopes of 54 degrees and this does not allow the yeasties to fully slide to the bottom (although they collect mainly below the 1 gallon mark). They could have collected at the bottom and completely filled the 1 gallon portion of the cone, but since my beer is dark, I could not see this before initially dumping to start secondary fermentation.

 

[tomasej]

Zinger,

I have collected, stored, frozen and reused yeast for several years now. Like you it was one of my main reasons for jumping into a conical and I also started with a plastic one. I noticed you waited eight days before you dumped. Did you dump trub at all prior to that? I usually dump trub a few days into fermentation which gets rid of the settled crap early and gives the active yeast cleaner wort to feast on. Once you do that you may have an easier time getting your yeast out. Having less vegetation will let it slide out easier. Also, for the last couple of years I have been using a yeast catcher to ensure that my yeast starts clean and stays clean. I use a tri-clamp instrument tee with a clear end caps so I can see inside of it. Since you are using plastic I suppose you could make something out of PVC that attaches to the bottom dump valve. It just has to be sealable after you remove it. Basically I dump trub a couple days in as stated earlier then attach my catcher. I then open my dump valve and let the catcher fill with beer. After the yeast settles (look through the sight glass) but prior to the rest (don't wait too long) I shut the dump valve and remove the catcher, cap it and put it in the fridge. After the yeast goes dormant I freeze half and save the other half for immediate similar beer usage. And you MUST use a starter. Buy a stir plate if you dont already have one. You can get one for $50 bucks through Brewers Hardware. The catcher, stirplate, mason jars and what ever else you buy to store and maintain your yeast will pay for itself in no time. I have more yeast than I know what to do with and only buy new when I am making something that I have never made before. At 6 to 8 bucks a batch the savings add up fast.:rockin: