Stuck fermentation

[Flaviking]

Hey guys,

I am having some issues with a moose knuckle clone.

I mashed at 160 and hit my OG a little low 1.053

I then aerated and pitched the Vermont Ale liquid yeast vial after stepping up a starter to two liters.

http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/vermont-ale

I fermented at 68 then after about 4 days I upped it to 72 and held it steady

After about 10 days I checked the gravity and it's sitting at 1.024. A full 9 points higher than the 1.013 the recipe calls for.

I have swirled the fermenter, two days ago I pitched a re-hydrated package of S-05 into the fermenter, nothing... still sitting at 1.024...

any ideas?

 

[Yooper]

mashing at 160 is the reason. It's ok, as with a mash temp the FG will be high. That is what I'd expect with that mash temp. I'm on my phone, so sorry for the short reply.

 

[Flaviking]

So you think it's a typo in the recipe? Seemed odd when I read it.

I will say though, I'm doing this as part of a club experiment and another member got his all the way down to 1.014. Or so he says. I'll have to ask what he mashed at, he may have adjusted.

 

[bransona]

It's the mash temp. If you want to fix it, grab some amylase extract. Or, if you're like me, just mash a pound of something with good diastetic power at 140* for 15 minutes. Then toss that wort straight in (no boiling). Thatll give you the enzymes you need. I just did this to a porter that I accidentally started the mash af 162* and it's fixed my problem. Personally though, if it tastes good, that gravity is ok by me. Not preferred, but ok.

 

[Yooper]

It's the mash temp. If you want to fix it, grab some amylase extract. Or, if you're like me, just mash a pound of something with good diastetic power at 140* for 15 minutes. Then toss that wort straight in (no boiling). Thatll give you the enzymes you need. I just did this to a porter that I accidentally started the mash af 162* and it's fixed my problem. Personally though, if it tastes good, that gravity is ok by me. Not preferred, but ok.

I wouldn't do a no-boil addition. Even if there is more diastatic power, adding it to the beer won't make the beer more fermentable, and there would be a very big infection risk from not boiling the new wort.

I think the beer is just done.

Adding some amylase would work, but then the beer might be too dry. I agree that if it tastes good, I'd leave it be.

 

[tezcatlipoca]

What are you mashing with? If it's a RIMS and you know you're consistent, I'd be a little concerned. If it's a cooler mash tun, I'd be very concerned. If it's more of a BIAB thing under a gas burner, I'd say your mash temp wasn't accurate and was probably above 160. BTW, I have et to date fine a recipe that calls for 160 mash. Usually it is between 152 and 156. Maybe I just keep trying the same type of recipes though...

 

[Flaviking]

Yeah definitely seemed odd to me, but it is John Kimmich... Considering its a single malt, I am not really surprised it calls for a mash in the upper range, but I thought 160 was pretty crazy.

There is a debate going now, that maybe it was pitch rate? I did pitch a little low, about 300 billion for a 10.5 gallon batch.. Should have been more around 400 to 500 billion depending on the calculator you use.

Also weather may have played a role.. we don't turn on our heat down here.. so when this cold weather front (yes, you northerners can laugh) came through my fermenter dropped from 72-68. It's back up to 70 now..

I think I'm gonna dry hop and keg.. and it will just be what it will be.

 

[Flaviking]

What are you mashing with? If it's a RIMS and you know you're consistent, I'd be a little concerned. If it's a cooler mash tun, I'd be very concerned. If it's more of a BIAB thing under a gas burner, I'd say your mash temp wasn't accurate and was probably above 160. BTW, I have et to date fine a recipe that calls for 160 mash. Usually it is between 152 and 156. Maybe I just keep trying the same type of recipes though...

To answer your question.. I have a RIMS. I triple check the mash temp with three monitors as well...1) the PID PT100 RTD, 2) A calibrated hand held, and 3)My mash tun thermometer.

The only point where I think I may be off is in the actual RIMS tube.. my probe is a good 6-7 inches away from the element.. so it may be reading a little low... gonna remedy that before the next brew and make sure it is 100% dialed in.