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Strata/Citra ratio for NEIPA

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FranklinsBeerTower

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Hi all - I have a pound of Strata from YVH but have never brewed with the hop before. Planning on doing my "house" NEIPA recipe with Strata and Citra together. Curious if folks have a suggested ratio for hopping....I'm currently planning to use a 2:1 Strata:Citra ratio but like I said, I have no idea if that will work well as I've never used Strata.

Draft version of the recipe below, feel free to critique. Thanks!

Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.25 gallons
Efficiency: 75% (brew house)
Original Gravity: 1.067
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 6.38%
IBU (tinseth): 50.52
SRM (morey): 6.03

FERMENTABLES:
9 lb - Golden Promise Pale Ale Malt (67.5%)
2 lb - White Wheat (15%)
2 lb - Flaked Oats (15%)
0.33 lb - American Honey Malt (2.5%)

HOPS:
4 oz - Strata , Type: Pellet, AA: 12, Use: Hop Stand for 15 min, IBU: 32.68
2 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 13.1, Use: Hop Stand for 15 min, IBU: 17.84
4 oz - Strata , Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 12, Use: Dry Hop for 3-7 days
2 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 13.1, Use: Dry Hop for 3-7 days

YEAST:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318
 
I've used a ton of Citra (only an eighth ton of Strata ;)) and I think you're on the right track wrt relative intensity of their characters as Citra does tend to dominate everything around it. I typically use Strata with Azacca and Idaho 7 (Fantastic Haze clone) where the players are all about equal...

Cheers!
 
I've used a ton of Citra (only an eighth ton of Strata ;)) and I think you're on the right track wrt relative intensity of their characters as Citra does tend to dominate everything around it. I typically use Strata with Azacca and Idaho 7 (Fantastic Haze clone) where the players are all about equal...

Cheers!
Thanks for the sense check! I’ll report back once I brew it up.
 
Ditto! 2:1 Strata-to-Citra, or more. Strata is moderately assertive, but Citra is the 800-pound gorilla of hop aroma.

I’ve done a number of Strata beers, some of which come out generically fruity (though pleasant), and some have a lovely and intense cannabis note. It seems that late additions and hop stands favor the weed, while dry hopping gives more generic fruit.

I’ve done 1:1 Strata-to-Krush LUPOMAX, and been very, very happy with the result. I may never use a different partner for Strata again.
 
Hello all, I have only been brewing for a year and I have tried multiple NEIPAs but each time I have dry hopped and gotten a harsh astringency on the backend even after the keg has been conditioning for a month.

I have a Fermzilla now and I am curious about all your techniques and procedures to dry hopping and then transferring to kegs. (free in beer or nylon bags, cold crash or not, contact time)

Cheers
 
Hello all, I have only been brewing for a year and I have tried multiple NEIPAs but each time I have dry hopped and gotten a harsh astringency on the backend even after the keg has been conditioning for a month.

I have a Fermzilla now and I am curious about all your techniques and procedures to dry hopping and then transferring to kegs. (free in beer or nylon bags, cold crash or not, contact time)

Cheers
Welcome!!

As for neipa's this is required reading.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/

*edit: if you don't have the time or the inclination to read it all then use the search function with keywords to find the answers you're looking for.
 
Hello all, I have only been brewing for a year and I have tried multiple NEIPAs but each time I have dry hopped and gotten a harsh astringency on the backend even after the keg has been conditioning for a month.

I have a Fermzilla now and I am curious about all your techniques and procedures to dry hopping and then transferring to kegs. (free in beer or nylon bags, cold crash or not, contact time)

Cheers
My dry hop process for NEIPA, refined from the very thread referenced above, is this: ferment fully, allow a few days post fermentation to be sure (patience or FG measurements), soft crash to 50 degrees for one or more days, be certain that any crashing is done under pressure (or with a CO2 balloon), dry hop with strict low O2 practices, let it ride for 24 hours (sometimes I bump the temp to 58), cold crash (37 degrees or less) for at least 2 days (but not more than 4), keg, "lager" for 4-6 weeks. This has minimized hop creep, hop burn, and oxidation for me. Dry hops are always warmed up a bit (from the freezer) crushed while still in the bag, and delivered freestyle. If there is a particularly large dry hop, which is usual, I use a Bouncer filter while kegging.

If I want to "double dry hop", usually when following someone else's recipe (rarely done, nowadays), I repeat that process twice with a trub/yeast/hop dump at 2 days post first addition. If someone else's recipe requires a fermentation dry hop, you can just add that quickly without any concern. My low O2 process is simple; streaming CO2 through a separate inlet while quickly adding the hops.

There are many other excellent techniques, including kegging the beer into a purged keg pre filled with the dry hop. Some serve from that keg, others transfer to another. The key is to minimize O2 ingress and hop creep. Balancing that with maximum hop expression is the challenge...Cheers! Rick

PS: You owe me about twelve hours of thread reading time ;-)
 
My dry hop process for NEIPA, refined from the very thread referenced above, is this: ferment fully, allow a few days post fermentation to be sure (patience or FG measurements), soft crash to 50 degrees for one or more days, be certain that any crashing is done under pressure (or with a CO2 balloon), dry hop with strict low O2 practices, let it ride for 24 hours (sometimes I bump the temp to 58), cold crash (37 degrees or less) for at least 2 days (but not more than 4), keg, "lager" for 4-6 weeks. This has minimized hop creep, hop burn, and oxidation for me. Dry hops are always warmed up a bit (from the freezer) crushed while still in the bag, and delivered freestyle. If there is a particularly large dry hop, which is usual, I use a Bouncer filter while kegging.

If I want to "double dry hop", usually when following someone else's recipe (rarely done, nowadays), I repeat that process twice with a trub/yeast/hop dump at 2 days post first addition. If someone else's recipe requires a fermentation dry hop, you can just add that quickly without any concern. My low O2 process is simple; streaming CO2 through a separate inlet while quickly adding the hops.

There are many other excellent techniques, including kegging the beer into a purged keg pre filled with the dry hop. Some serve from that keg, others transfer to another. The key is to minimize O2 ingress and hop creep. Balancing that with maximum hop expression is the challenge...Cheers! Rick

PS: You owe me about twelve hours of thread reading time ;-)
Thanks! I did spend about an hour reading the above thread yesterday and found some answers but this is everything I was looking for. The technique link wasnt available so I really do appreciate it as I have a batch that is 5 days into fermentation now and was going to soft crash and dry hop in a day or two. Cheers!
 
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