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Double IPA Stone Enjoy By IPA

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Yes, fermentation generates its own heat and for a nice vigorous fermentation a +10*F difference between fermenter and ambient air isn't unheard of.
 
I actually haven't helped at all :) I get what you are saying now. Crazy that your fridge can't keep up with it. I use a water bath and have checked during the peak of fermentation and the wort and water bath temp were within 1F. I would expect a fridge to do better than 10F difference.

I would say 70 is a bit warm, but it will probably be okay. Hopefully others will have better advice.
 
I just got home from work, Fermometer says 72/74...what the hell...

How is this going to effect my beer and what can I do to cool it down and keep it cool? Ambient inside says 63F...I'm already fed up with this. Looks like I am going to have to drop even more money on a temperature controlled fermentation fridge...yay! Just what I wanted to do after spending easily over a grand just to get started. Why are none of the fun hobbies cheap!?

Thanks for helping me out though, I appreciate it!
 
I moved the cooler into the basement and its now sitting at 55F inside, the Fermometer still says 70F but I am thinking by tomorrow it will have dropped some more. I just ordered a bunch of parts to make the BrewPi fermentation controller and I will be picking up another mini fridge this weekend, I do NOT want this to happen again.

Hopefully I can update in a few weeks with good news! Only time will tell if anything got messed up, but hopefully it's still decent.

I will be brewing this again in a month when I decide to do another batch, it will be interesting to see the differences.
 
Good luck man. I use a water bath in my basement all year round and most of the year I have to add heat with an aquarium heater. Only a couple months do I have to do nothing or try to cool it. For example, now the basement is in the mid 60s so the last batch is sitting in a 66F water bath. Cost me the $8 rubbermaid tote.
 
if you have a thermoelectric wine cooler then I think that explains your problem. I doubt those things can keep up with an active fermentation of a high-gravity beer. now if you have a regular old compressor cooler then I don't know, go with the water bath.

I use a large plastic tub (the one for backyard BBQs to hold drinks) and fill it halfway with cold water. usually 55-60 degree water will keep my fermentation in the mid-60s. of course that requires you to keep an eye on the bath temp several times a day, especially during the period of very active fermentation. I use ice blocks to chill the water as it warms up...but be careful of over-chilling. I once lowered the stupid carboy temp from 70 to 60 with too much ice and dropped half my WLP007.
 
I moved the cooler into the basement and its now sitting at 55F inside, the Fermometer still says 70F but I am thinking by tomorrow it will have dropped some more. I just ordered a bunch of parts to make the BrewPi fermentation controller and I will be picking up another mini fridge this weekend, I do NOT want this to happen again.

Hopefully I can update in a few weeks with good news! Only time will tell if anything got messed up, but hopefully it's still decent.

I will be brewing this again in a month when I decide to do another batch, it will be interesting to see the differences.

If you are going with a temp controller might I recommend a chest freezer instead of a mini fridge? About the same price as a mini-fridge but the chest freezer will me more energy efficient and more versatile. (Able to better lager, cold crash, etc.)
 
If you are going with a temp controller might I recommend a chest freezer instead of a mini fridge? About the same price as a mini-fridge but the chest freezer will me more energy efficient and more versatile. (Able to better lager, cold crash, etc.)

^^^ This! I bought a 15 cu. Ft. Frigidaire for $380, and I couldn't be happier! Can fit four 6 gal buckets (for fermentation) or 8 corny kegs. And as opiate said, you can child crash and reach 32°F a lot easier with a freezer, and get a lot more space too.
 
Space is a concern or else I would buy a nice freezer, that being said I am not opposed to picking one up new for around $150 if anyone knows where to get one that cheap.

I need three freezers right now, one to ferment/lager/cold crash, one to make into a keezer, and one to store ingredients/venison/fish fillets.

I might be able to do a freezer and a fridge combo to get by for now.
 
Well if you are getting a mini fridge with enough space for a single fermenter (I am assuming) a little 5cu ft freezer would do the trick and not take up much more space than a mini fridge. Just saying.

I just picked up a 5cu ft guy that I use exclusively for cold-crashing for $80 off of Craigslist. It is a 1 year old like new Holiday model. When I don't have a beer cold crashing I drop it down to normal freezer temps and store things like hops, ice packs and a few other small miscellaneous freezables. My wife was very happy that my 8lbs of hops was moved out of our kitchen freezer. ;)

You should be able to find a brand new one that size for $150ish if you don't want to play the craigslist game.
 
Racked it to the secondary today, thankfully the temperatures have been under control. Got a chance to taste it while I was taking the S.G. reading (1.020) and I am very excited to get this in the keg and see the final product!
 
Man this is a great beer. Will be brewing an Enjoy By inspired beer soon.
 
How long does this beer retain the hop aroma once it's bottled? I'm thinking about making it for my friends wedding and trying to figure out the lead time to have it at its best. I plan to keg to carb it and then bottle it.


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Well the latest round of Enjoy By is dated 7/4 and according to their website was bottled 5/30, so Stone seems to think ~5 weeks once bottled.

So grain-to-bottle thinking 1 week to ferment, 1 week for dry hopping, 1 week to cold crash/clear, 1 week to carb... so following Stone schedule I would think about brewing ~2 months out on the outset.

I would guess that Stone probably speeds up a couple of those steps (specifically, clearing the beer and carbing it up) but for a homebrew scale I think that is about right. If it were me I'd probably start the brew about 6 weeks out. Also, if you are promising it for a friends wedding I would do 2 separate batches brewed a few days to a week apart just in case something goes south with a batch.
 
Since you are kegging, pressurize it and bottle as close to the wedding as possible IMO


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Well the latest round of Enjoy By is dated 7/4 and according to their website was bottled 5/30, so Stone seems to think ~5 weeks once bottled.

So grain-to-bottle thinking 1 week to ferment, 1 week for dry hopping, 1 week to cold crash/clear, 1 week to carb... so following Stone schedule I would think about brewing ~2 months out on the outset.

I would guess that Stone probably speeds up a couple of those steps (specifically, clearing the beer and carbing it up) but for a homebrew scale I think that is about right. If it were me I'd probably start the brew about 6 weeks out. Also, if you are promising it for a friends wedding I would do 2 separate batches brewed a few days to a week apart just in case something goes south with a batch.

I asked when I was visiting the brewery last October/November and the bartender said that they bottle it one week after they brew it. This means that they must be filtering it, which I told him, and he said yes they do. I don't know how much he knows about brewing or the whole process, but he seemed to know about all the details. When I brewed it, I did the same. I doubt I would filter another beer ever again, but I was very impressed with the recipe.

TD
 
For this recipe it is added during the boil.

I've always heard "add it whenever" but have always personally added it with 15 minutes remaining just for consistency purposes.
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1406051242.906763.jpg Brewing this as I type. Here's a money shot of my 15 minute addition


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anyone try this recipe with Nottinham? I have some harvested notty that I've built up with a large starter. I figure its clean enough to work for this and attenuates so well and is very clean as long as it is in the low 60's. I think it might even be the dry yeast version of WLP007.
 
There is a different yeasty that is Notty. Wlp039. Wlp007 is supposed to be wy1098 dry whitbread (mr malty.com). The s-04 should be the same dry whitbread strain from what I've heard as well.

Notty would be okay as long as you have strict temp control. Not clone perfect, but a really solid yeast and one of my favorites.


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ImageUploadedByHome Brew1408501079.637985.jpg bottling this tomorrow. Overshot the gravity and ended up around 10.7%. Should be tasty nonetheless


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Hmm, I have had multiple bottles from both of those batches and I didn't notice the difference like you did. Maybe something happened to your 4/20's prior to you purchasing them? i.e. UV exposure, hot/cold swings etc.? Or maybe there was a diff and I just didn't detect it.

As far as brewing it, I made my first attempt at it last month and it turned out fantastic. I really rushed the process too in order to get a couple bottles into a local competition - primary 4 days, secondary with first dry hop 6 days, keg with second dry hop 3 days at 30 psi, then bottled for comp. I bottled an extra one to sample on the day I knew the judging would take place. Tasted awesome!!! I have to wait a couple weeks yet for results to be announced. Anyway, the point I'm getting to is that the beer left in the keg that I continued to drink had its hop aroma and some hop flavor fade extremely fast. By week two it tasted quite different. I don't know if it is because of the particular dry hop varieties used or that in combination with dry hopping in the keg (which I never did remove btw). Either way I've never had an IPA fade this fast. Next time I plan to do both rounds of dry hopping in fermentor and not in keg. Maybe 1 round in primary and 1 in secondary. I usually like to dry hop in secondary (I've done both many times) but I also like to keep the transferring to a minimum.

Cheers!

How did this beer fare in the competition?
 
Has anyone tried lowering the starting gravity on this to bring the alcohol down to an IPA level? How would I go about doing that? Would I lower all the grains and dextrose? I'd like to keep most of the bitterness, but I assume I should lower some of bittering hops, correct?
 
Has anyone tried lowering the starting gravity on this to bring the alcohol down to an IPA level? How would I go about doing that? Would I lower all the grains and dextrose? I'd like to keep most of the bitterness, but I assume I should lower some of bittering hops, correct?

I would complete remove the dextrose and see where that puts you with gravity on your system. If you still need to lower it then decrease equal amounts of the grain (keeping the 50/50 split). For the hops I would proportionately decrease the hop extract ibu based on the decreased OG and keep the flavor/aroma additions the same. Brew that recipe up once and then adjust your mash temp if you want it more/less fermentable.
 
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