StillDragon DIY Controller Kit

[mendozer]

oh so you need this "changeover" switch rather than a simple 3 way switch like SW3 from Auber?

 

[mendozer]

ah ok so the contactor handles the full 240 for the simple switch where this changeover switch handles it all. Is that right?

seems like just go with the cheaper option if they both do the same job. Auber's 30A 240v contactor is 16.50 so it seems better to just go for the switch. Less parts = less to go wrong, eh?

 

[doug293cz]

ah ok so the contactor handles the full 240 for the simple switch where this changeover switch handles it all. Is that right?

seems like just go with the cheaper option if they both do the same job. Auber's 30A 240v contactor is 16.50 so it seems better to just go for the switch. Less parts = less to go wrong, eh?

Yes, a 2 pole, ON-OFF-ON switch that handles at least 30A and 240V does the job of 2 contactors and a lower current ON-OFF-ON switch.

Brew on

 

[mendozer]

any experience with these Chinese changeover switches and the breaker mentioned in this thread with their longevity? Don't wanna die to save a buck

 

[Call_Me_Tex]

any experience with these Chinese changeover switches and the breaker mentioned in this thread with their longevity? Don't wanna die to save a buck

The only one I saw linked there that has high enough current (amp) capacity to directly switch is the amazon one...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A3W41C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The down side to this is that you will always have a hot line going to each element. As long as everything has a proper ground and your GFCI is installed correctly you should be fine from a safety perspective. It should be as reliable as any household switch. I switch my lights on/off far more frequently than I use my brew panel and usually only have to replace them when we paint, not from failures.

 

[doug293cz]

The only one I saw linked there that has high enough current (amp) capacity to directly switch is the amazon one...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A3W41C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The down side to this is that you will always have a hot line going to each element. As long as everything has a proper ground and your GFCI is installed correctly you should be fine from a safety perspective. It should be as reliable as any household switch. I switch my lights on/off far more frequently than I use my brew panel and usually only have to replace them when we paint, not from failures.

That Bryant switch is double pole, double throw, center off, so it can switch both hot lines at the same time. No power to either element when switch in center position.

Can you explain why you say that the ebay rotary switches, that claim a 32A @ 277VAC rating, are inadequate? Is there something in the detailed specs lower on the page? I looked at them, but couldn't make sense of some of the numbers.

Personally, I would trust the Bryant switch, and avoid the ebay rotaries just because they don't look robust enough to handle the current.

Brew on

 

[Call_Me_Tex]

That Bryant switch is double pole, double throw, center off, so it can switch both hot lines at the same time. No power to either element when switch in center position.

Can you explain why you say that the ebay rotary switches, that claim a 32A @ 277VAC rating, are inadequate? Is there something in the detailed specs lower on the page? I looked at them, but couldn't make sense of some of the numbers.

Personally, I would trust the Bryant switch, and avoid the ebay rotaries just because they don't look robust enough to handle the current.

Brew on

Man was I way off on both counts... that's what I get for trying to sneak onto HBT between meetings at the office. I obviously wasn't paying attention.

 

[mendozer]

Man was I way off on both counts... that's what I get for trying to sneak onto HBT between meetings at the office. I obviously wasn't paying attention.

So the Chinese switch can handle the load well?

What would happen if the switch failed? Would it just be stuck open (no current) or would it fail in the closed position and have electricity running to both elements tripping my circuit?

Either way, would it be damaging or is it one of those "ah well blew a circuit, just flip the switch and reset it" methods?

I don't mind paying the extra 18 bucks, but I like the rotary style switch better. It fits our controller boxes and designs better.

 

[doug293cz]

So the Chinese switch can handle the load well?

What would happen if the switch failed? Would it just be stuck open (no current) or would it fail in the closed position and have electricity running to both elements tripping my circuit?

Either way, would it be damaging or is it one of those "ah well blew a circuit, just flip the switch and reset it" methods?

I don't mind paying the extra 18 bucks, but I like the rotary style switch better. It fits our controller boxes and designs better.

High voltage, high current switches can fail by the contacts getting welded together. This means they would be stuck closed (on), which could create a dangerous situation. It's unlikely that it could fail in a way that would have both sets of contacts on. The resistance to contact welding depends on the contact materials and geometry. I have no idea what's inside the ebay switches, so cannot comment further.

Brew on