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The exclusive role of the neutral wire in this implementation is to provide 120v to the Contactor through the switches as I chose a 120v coil for the Contactor.

I suppose you could only switch one side but why? If they're off, I want it all to be off. The role of the contactor is to completely isolate the 240v feeds when you want them off.

That's my layman's understanding.
 
The exclusive role of the neutral wire in this implementation is to provide 120v to the Contactor through the switches as I chose a 120v coil for the Contactor.

I suppose you could only switch one side but why? If they're off, I want it all to be off. The role of the contactor is to completely isolate the 240v feeds when you want them off.

That's my layman's understanding.

I haven't used one, but why couldn't you just use a contactor with a 240V coil?

I think it's a decent idea to have the neutral in there anyway in case there's anything else you want the 120V for (pumps), so I guess I'm just talking theory here.

Like this: http://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/product-30_amp_2_pole_230_240v_contactor-252014
 
My understanding of how GFCI works is that it detects an imbalance between the current in the hot wire and the current returning through the neutral wire. My concern would be if there is a fault in your device that connects a hot wire to ground it might not trip the GFCI because the neutral wire is disconnected.
 
With using a controller like this, since there is 1 hot going directly to the coil and the other running through the SSR, would the element still be on and creating heat even if the pot is dialed all the way down?
 
With using a controller like this, since there is 1 hot going directly to the coil and the other running through the SSR, would the element still be on and creating heat even if the pot is dialed all the way down?

No, the power won't be flowing. The potential is there, but there is no current unless it gets to ground (a short) or the other hot when the SSR closes AND the contactor is closed.
 
No, the power won't be flowing. The potential is there, but there is no current unless it gets to ground (a short) or the other hot when the SSR closes AND the contactor is closed.

Excellent thanks for the feedback. I'll let you guys know how the build goes.
 
I'm currently building a Stilldragon style controller for my BK as well and one thing I am adding is a DPST 30A switch.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89198-334-3...uctId=3568846&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

This switch includes an on indicator as well. When the switch is in the off position, both sides of the line (L1 & L2) will be disconnected from the SSR (L1) and the heating element (L2). It isn't technically necessary, but it gives me a mechanical switch in the circuit.
 
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