Starter Size Gone Wrong!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

OP
ryan810cows

ryan810cows

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2015
Messages
67
Reaction score
12
Location
Blacksburg
5. Return wort to boil. The mixture is now called “wort”,
the brewer’s term for unfermented beer.
-- Add 1 oz Summit hops and boil for 60 minutes.
-- Add 1 oz Chinook hops and 6 lbs dark malt syrup 15 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Cascade hops 5 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops and 1 lb corn sugar at the end of the boil.[/INDENT]

I would wait with adding the last 6 pound of LME until after you're done boiling:
5 minutes before the end of the boil, and just before adding the 5 minute Cascade hops, first ladle some (~1-2 quarts) of your wort into a separate (largish) pot (we'll get back to that in a minute). Then add your 5 minute Cascade hops to the main kettle per instructions and stir.
I with you so far.. I can handle this one...

Now go back to that pot with 1-2 quarts of hot wort. But keep an eye on the clock (set timer!) to turn the flame off on your boiling kettle at "0" minutes and add your 0-minute Centennial hops. Don't forget those!
Check!

In the mean time, in that pot, dilute the 6 pound of malt syrup in that hot wort so it gets thinner. Once dissolved you may heat it up a bit, but if you do so do it slowly and carefully. You may heat it to around 180°F, no higher, no need to boil. Again, if you're heating it, be very, very careful NOT to scorch it! In case you need to step away to tend to your main kettle, remove the pot from the heat source.
Check!.... Is this so the wort has a better time absorbing everything?

The main kettle should be done by now. Pour the whole pot of diluted extract back into kettle, and stir well to homogenize the wort. After adding, the wort should be at least 165°F. 180°F is best, a bit higher is fine too.
Check!! I will make sure I add it back in and give it a good stir before I begin cooling and whirl pooling!! :ban:

Let that sit with a lid on it for about 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes. That's called a "hopstand." You could extend that to 30 minutes (or even longer) if you want. All that time more flavor is being extracted from your late addition hops. That's how IPAs are made!
I wanted to point out that I have a Converted E-Keggle (I have pictures posted in my profile) and I will be whirl pooling through my CFC for 30min after the boil. I want to get the cold break to drop out before I transfer. I think this method is basically what your talking about as well. I also know that this recipe is based on a partial boil and i will be doing a FULL boil.. I will get more utilization out of the hops and probably don't need to use all the hopes they give in the kit (i should be using around 3/4 of the boil hops..) but I like it HOPPY! Should I change something here?
IMG_9876.jpg


On the last step, when adding your 0-minute Centennial hops:
As I mentioned before, you're still going to wait and add that pound of corn sugar (dissolved, boiled and chilled) directly to the fermentor after 5-7 days, right?

Yep! I plan on waiting out 7 Days before i add the corn sugar (dissolved, boiled & Chilled) :)



In the end... I know I should be pitching a bit more yeast (i'll be shy about .5 liters to make a GOOD starter).. but I think it will still turn out GREAT! I will make sure I get the wort a GOOD 30 second dose of Pure O2 and make sure i add my Yeast Nutrient to the end of the boil.. (First time for this too!)

All your help has been VERY VERY appreciated! It's so funny, I have been CONSTANTLY looking at my phone over the past few days just WAITING for someone to respond back with new info!!
 

IslandLizard

Progressive Brewing
Staff member
Mod
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
17,536
Reaction score
7,643
Location
Pasadena, MD
I with you so far.. I can handle this one...

Check!

Check!.... Is this so the wort has a better time absorbing everything?

Check!! I will make sure I add it back in and give it a good stir before I begin cooling and whirl pooling!! :ban:

I wanted to point out that I have a Converted E-Keggle (I have pictures posted in my profile) and I will be whirl pooling through my CFC for 30min after the boil. I want to get the cold break to drop out before I transfer. I think this method is basically what your talking about as well. I also know that this recipe is based on a partial boil and i will be doing a FULL boil.. I will get more utilization out of the hops and probably don't need to use all the hopes they give in the kit (i should be using around 3/4 of the boil hops..) but I like it HOPPY! Should I change something here?
View attachment 328807


Yep! I plan on waiting out 7 Days before i add the corn sugar (dissolved, boiled & Chilled) :)



In the end... I know I should be pitching a bit more yeast (i'll be shy about .5 liters to make a GOOD starter).. but I think it will still turn out GREAT! I will make sure I get the wort a GOOD 30 second dose of Pure O2 and make sure i add my Yeast Nutrient to the end of the boil.. (First time for this too!)

All your help has been VERY VERY appreciated! It's so funny, I have been CONSTANTLY looking at my phone over the past few days just WAITING for someone to respond back with new info!!
Wow, all I can say you've got the most functional, elaborate and best looking setup I've ever seen of a 2nd time brewer! Really nice equipment, man!

Yes, the reason to pre-dilute the LME syrup is so it dissolve faster when you pour in into the kettle, so you don't have a huge blob laying on the bottom. Some brewers heat the cans/jug in a pot of hot water, and although it pours easier, it doesn't get thin enough IMO.

Since you're setup for recirculating and whirlpooling your hop stand will be almost effortless, and so much better.

You may not have severe hop clogging problems with your pump/CFC, but using some sort of hop filter, hop spider, or hop sacks may be necessary with larger hops loads. Just something to consider.

I have a plate filter, so pre-filtering is a must. My large filter screen would plug up fast (suction) and restrict the flow to the pump too much ending up in a pencil width of wort from the return. Whirlpooling/recirculating was impossible and chilling would take forever. I have gone back to using hop sacks again just to keep all the hop trub out of the wort, and what a difference that made to brew day!

I would use all the hops. More is better. :D
I couldn't find any IBU numbers for that recipe, but I doubt the slightly larger hop utilization is unwelcome. The AG recipe uses the same hopping schedule. It looks to be a well balanced beer.

In NB's comment section I did see people mentioning to use more dry hops if you want the extra aroma. 1 oz of dry hops is sort of the minimum for IPAs, by today's hoppy standards.

Have a great brew day! Don't sweat over the yeast, you'll be fine.
If you compare your yeast prep with this one, yours looks like gold!

BTW, I brewed this last night.
 
OP
ryan810cows

ryan810cows

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2015
Messages
67
Reaction score
12
Location
Blacksburg
Thanks!! It went well!! It's actively bubbling away already!! Every few seconds now!! It staterd to a very slow bubble a few hours after pitching as well! ALL GOOD!

image.jpg
 
Top