• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Starter Size Gone Wrong!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Sooooo... After talking it over with the wife.. Another good day that I could brew would be next Friday. Anyway I can use that to my advantage and make my East starter turn out just about perfect? Not sure if that is way too far away for the East since I've already started it. What are your guys thoughts and or methods I should follow?

OR

Just stick to the new plan of add 1L wort to original started and dumping it all in on Sunday?
 
Sooooo... After talking it over with the wife.. Another good day that I could brew would be next Friday. Anyway I can use that to my advantage and make my East starter turn out just about perfect? Not sure if that is way too far away for the East since I've already started it. What are your guys thoughts and or methods I should follow?

OR

Just stick to the new plan of add 1L wort to original started and dumping it all in on Sunday?

You can always just leave it in the fridge for an extra few days before decanting. It won't hurt anything, and will actually help the yeast flocculate more.

I would use the time to your advantage and make a decanted step starter.
 
IslandLizard
In line answers.:) IN GREEN!!

As for secondary, I won't be going to secondary until about 3 weeks after pitching.
No need for a secondary, really. Just dry hop in your primary 5 days to a week before bottling day (no longer). I'm always concerned about oxidation during racking, the last you want for an IPA, it ruins hop sensation. Just drop the pellets into the carboy, cap with a solid bung, and swirl gently. If you use a bucket don't remove the lid.

I think I will try it out with this batch!

The instructions say to add the whole 1 LB of sugar. I will be using the sugar pills from Norther Brewer for bottling so I won't we transferring to a bottling bucket.
Good, less racking! When time comes, tie a piece of sanitized thin muslin fabric around the bottom of your siphon, the end that goes into the fermentor. Keeps the hop fiber out of your bottles.

I would not add that "priming sugar" to the boil at all. Add the sugar after the primary is pretty much done, after about 2 weeks or when it has slowed down significantly. This is mainly to curb production of fusel alcohols in the beginning and to wake up a few more yeasties to finish their work. In a way it gives the yeast a "treat" at the end rather than candy before the work has begun. :D Just boil it with a cup or 2 of water, chill and pour into the fermentor.

OOo Boy... Going off the instructions on my SECOND batch!! I'm scared!! BUT.. I will give it a shot! I don't have a hygrometer so I will wait it out 2 weeks.. THEN add the "Priming Sugar"! That makes sense to give the little Yeasties a treat!

One question I have though... Something you mentioned... Am I supposed to add my wort to the fermenter, put in my O2, THEN Pitch? Or add everything THEN O2? Maybe something that doesn't matter... Just wondering.
Add O2 right before pitching. The yeast will then absorb it as soon as they hit the wort. I gather you have an oxygenation stone at the end of the wand? If you see any bubbles on the surface during oxygenation there's too much flow, that's oxygen that didn't get dissolved, crank it down a bit. Swirl/move that wand around slowly to reach all "corners" during that 30 second O2 event. Spread it around.

GREAT to know! Thanks!
 
You can always just leave it in the fridge for an extra few days before decanting. It won't hurt anything, and will actually help the yeast flocculate more.



I would use the time to your advantage and make a decanted step starter.


So then just add the extra 1L and put on the stir plate for 24?

After the 24, fridge it up until next Friday? I'm still a bit confused still on how to do that part if it's not like I just Sadie above.
 
So my starter bubbled over.. Not a ton.. So I thought this may happen.. So I prepared for the worst with lost of paper towel.. BUT.. Should I worry? I have it still going now and it looks like it calmed down..View attachment 328710

Hey, now you know it's active!

I hoped you'd come up with a gallon jug for the extended starter, that's tight and not a lot of air space. I've had starter blow offs losing as much as half the yeast, multiple times! Achouffe comes to mind. Happens always overnight. Even with a stir plate.

BTW, that's looking pretty good! Pitching an active starter can even awake the dead (fermentations).
 
5. Return wort to boil. The mixture is now called “wort”,
the brewer’s term for unfermented beer.
-- Add 1 oz Summit hops and boil for 60 minutes.
-- Add 1 oz Chinook hops and 6 lbs dark malt syrup 15 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Cascade hops 5 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops and 1 lb corn sugar at the end of the boil.​

I would wait with adding the last 6 pound of LME until after you're done boiling:
5 minutes before the end of the boil, and just before adding the 5 minute Cascade hops, first ladle some (~1-2 quarts) of your wort into a separate (largish) pot (we'll get back to that in a minute). Then add your 5 minute Cascade hops to the main kettle per instructions and stir.

Now go back to that pot with 1-2 quarts of hot wort. But keep an eye on the clock (set timer!) to turn the flame off on your boiling kettle at "0" minutes and add your 0-minute Centennial hops. Don't forget those!

In the mean time, in that pot, dilute the 6 pound of malt syrup in that hot wort so it gets thinner. Once dissolved you may heat it up a bit, but if you do so do it slowly and carefully. You may heat it to around 180°F, no higher, no need to boil. Again, if you're heating it, be very, very careful NOT to scorch it! In case you need to step away to tend to your main kettle, remove the pot from the heat source.

The main kettle should be done by now. Pour the whole pot of diluted extract back into kettle, and stir well to homogenize the wort. After adding, the wort should be at least 165°F. 180°F is best, a bit higher is fine too.

Let that sit with a lid on it for about 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes. That's called a "hopstand." You could extend that to 30 minutes (or even longer) if you want. All that time more flavor is being extracted from your late addition hops. That's how IPAs are made!

On the last step, when adding your 0-minute Centennial hops:
As I mentioned before, you're still going to wait and add that pound of corn sugar (dissolved, boiled and chilled) directly to the fermentor after 5-7 days, right?
 
5. Return wort to boil. The mixture is now called “wort”,
the brewer’s term for unfermented beer.
-- Add 1 oz Summit hops and boil for 60 minutes.
-- Add 1 oz Chinook hops and 6 lbs dark malt syrup 15 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Cascade hops 5 minutes before the end of the boil.
-- Add 1 oz Centennial hops and 1 lb corn sugar at the end of the boil.[/INDENT]

I would wait with adding the last 6 pound of LME until after you're done boiling:
5 minutes before the end of the boil, and just before adding the 5 minute Cascade hops, first ladle some (~1-2 quarts) of your wort into a separate (largish) pot (we'll get back to that in a minute). Then add your 5 minute Cascade hops to the main kettle per instructions and stir.

I with you so far.. I can handle this one...

Now go back to that pot with 1-2 quarts of hot wort. But keep an eye on the clock (set timer!) to turn the flame off on your boiling kettle at "0" minutes and add your 0-minute Centennial hops. Don't forget those!

Check!

In the mean time, in that pot, dilute the 6 pound of malt syrup in that hot wort so it gets thinner. Once dissolved you may heat it up a bit, but if you do so do it slowly and carefully. You may heat it to around 180°F, no higher, no need to boil. Again, if you're heating it, be very, very careful NOT to scorch it! In case you need to step away to tend to your main kettle, remove the pot from the heat source.

Check!.... Is this so the wort has a better time absorbing everything?

The main kettle should be done by now. Pour the whole pot of diluted extract back into kettle, and stir well to homogenize the wort. After adding, the wort should be at least 165°F. 180°F is best, a bit higher is fine too.
Check!! I will make sure I add it back in and give it a good stir before I begin cooling and whirl pooling!! :ban:

Let that sit with a lid on it for about 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes. That's called a "hopstand." You could extend that to 30 minutes (or even longer) if you want. All that time more flavor is being extracted from your late addition hops. That's how IPAs are made!

I wanted to point out that I have a Converted E-Keggle (I have pictures posted in my profile) and I will be whirl pooling through my CFC for 30min after the boil. I want to get the cold break to drop out before I transfer. I think this method is basically what your talking about as well. I also know that this recipe is based on a partial boil and i will be doing a FULL boil.. I will get more utilization out of the hops and probably don't need to use all the hopes they give in the kit (i should be using around 3/4 of the boil hops..) but I like it HOPPY! Should I change something here?
IMG_9876.jpg


On the last step, when adding your 0-minute Centennial hops:
As I mentioned before, you're still going to wait and add that pound of corn sugar (dissolved, boiled and chilled) directly to the fermentor after 5-7 days, right?


Yep! I plan on waiting out 7 Days before i add the corn sugar (dissolved, boiled & Chilled) :)



In the end... I know I should be pitching a bit more yeast (i'll be shy about .5 liters to make a GOOD starter).. but I think it will still turn out GREAT! I will make sure I get the wort a GOOD 30 second dose of Pure O2 and make sure i add my Yeast Nutrient to the end of the boil.. (First time for this too!)

All your help has been VERY VERY appreciated! It's so funny, I have been CONSTANTLY looking at my phone over the past few days just WAITING for someone to respond back with new info!!
 
I with you so far.. I can handle this one...

Check!

Check!.... Is this so the wort has a better time absorbing everything?

Check!! I will make sure I add it back in and give it a good stir before I begin cooling and whirl pooling!! :ban:

I wanted to point out that I have a Converted E-Keggle (I have pictures posted in my profile) and I will be whirl pooling through my CFC for 30min after the boil. I want to get the cold break to drop out before I transfer. I think this method is basically what your talking about as well. I also know that this recipe is based on a partial boil and i will be doing a FULL boil.. I will get more utilization out of the hops and probably don't need to use all the hopes they give in the kit (i should be using around 3/4 of the boil hops..) but I like it HOPPY! Should I change something here?
View attachment 328807


Yep! I plan on waiting out 7 Days before i add the corn sugar (dissolved, boiled & Chilled) :)



In the end... I know I should be pitching a bit more yeast (i'll be shy about .5 liters to make a GOOD starter).. but I think it will still turn out GREAT! I will make sure I get the wort a GOOD 30 second dose of Pure O2 and make sure i add my Yeast Nutrient to the end of the boil.. (First time for this too!)

All your help has been VERY VERY appreciated! It's so funny, I have been CONSTANTLY looking at my phone over the past few days just WAITING for someone to respond back with new info!!

Wow, all I can say you've got the most functional, elaborate and best looking setup I've ever seen of a 2nd time brewer! Really nice equipment, man!

Yes, the reason to pre-dilute the LME syrup is so it dissolve faster when you pour in into the kettle, so you don't have a huge blob laying on the bottom. Some brewers heat the cans/jug in a pot of hot water, and although it pours easier, it doesn't get thin enough IMO.

Since you're setup for recirculating and whirlpooling your hop stand will be almost effortless, and so much better.

You may not have severe hop clogging problems with your pump/CFC, but using some sort of hop filter, hop spider, or hop sacks may be necessary with larger hops loads. Just something to consider.

I have a plate filter, so pre-filtering is a must. My large filter screen would plug up fast (suction) and restrict the flow to the pump too much ending up in a pencil width of wort from the return. Whirlpooling/recirculating was impossible and chilling would take forever. I have gone back to using hop sacks again just to keep all the hop trub out of the wort, and what a difference that made to brew day!

I would use all the hops. More is better. :D
I couldn't find any IBU numbers for that recipe, but I doubt the slightly larger hop utilization is unwelcome. The AG recipe uses the same hopping schedule. It looks to be a well balanced beer.

In NB's comment section I did see people mentioning to use more dry hops if you want the extra aroma. 1 oz of dry hops is sort of the minimum for IPAs, by today's hoppy standards.

Have a great brew day! Don't sweat over the yeast, you'll be fine.
If you compare your yeast prep with this one, yours looks like gold!

BTW, I brewed this last night.
 
Thanks!! It went well!! It's actively bubbling away already!! Every few seconds now!! It staterd to a very slow bubble a few hours after pitching as well! ALL GOOD!

image.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top