Stainless Steel Heating Element

[ParadiseBeer]

yes the contacts, breakers and terminal blocks all clip in... and a relay if you are going that route. I use a relay to make sure the elements are off before the control panel will start. I recommend you check out the parts at ebrewsupply . com. The price on the 63amp contactor is almost worth going that route alone. if you are going to use four 30 or 25amp breakers for you elements then you can get them on ebay near the same price. the breakers that ebrewsupply has are better quality then you get on ebay. Did you see the inside of my panel, all DIN RAIL.

 

[Gameface]

yes the contacts, breakers and terminal blocks all clip in... and a relay if you are going that route. I use a relay to make sure the elements are off before the control panel will start. I recommend you check out the parts at ebrewsupply . com. The price on the 63amp contactor is almost worth going that route alone. if you are going to use four 30 or 25amp breakers for you elements then you can get them on ebay near the same price. the breakers that ebrewsupply has are better quality then you get on ebay. Did you see the inside of my panel, all DIN RAIL.

No I haven't. Gotta link?

So I have to buy parts specifically for din or I can attach din rail clips to standard parts?

 

[ParadiseBeer]

No I haven't. Gotta link?

So I have to buy parts specifically for din or I can attach din rail clips to standard parts?

you buy the parts to clip into the din rail. Check out this link, it's from a build of ebrewsupply. it shows the inside of a control box they built with DIN RAIL. really nice layout.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ebrewsupply/13604930894/in/set-72157643360976365/

 

[augiedoggy]

here is a link to the din rail hes talking about along with some breakers that work with it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DIN-RAI...662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c682f06

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271533564977?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SQUARE-D-30...236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339cf6024c
places like ebrew all have at least a 35% markup on all the kits they sell....
to each is own but I would rather spend the 30 minutes to shop for everything individually and save a few hundred bucks on the build..

what functions does this $1600. panel kit serve
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/asb-pid-0322.html?SID=7tg0t7qd8v7jnus4gh3hqeu0u0.

That this sub $300 panel doesnt have??

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/

Infact the panel I built has more functionality... And there a lot of room between the $300 bucks or so my panel cost and the $1,600- 2k kits out there to take liberties and make it fancy....

Why go through middlemen who just compile it into kits and charge double? there are products and services offered by many sellers who sponser this forum and many of them are very fair deals but to me when someone just orders a bunch of off the shelf hardware from china and throws it in a box and doubles their investment by selling to an unknowing customer thats not a very fair deal to the customer...again just MHO
Some of these kits seemed to be designed more for eye candy than practical function... even if thats your thing, I would think that person would have a lot more fun sourcing and building your own panel than assembling someone elses.

everything in this kit can be bought for about $100 including shipping...http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/ebrew-kits/ebrew-pid-kits/bcs-2-element-2-pumps-30a-kit-516.html

 

[BTizo]

Any update on the ripple elements, Bobby?

 

[Bobby_M]

The update is that they haven't been shipped to me yet. Factory delay is all they will say. Most likely will now be mid next week.

 

[BTizo]

Bummer. I hope it's not stuck in the ports that are undergoing the slow down slash strike. Thanks for the update, Bobby!

 

[Bobby_M]

Nope, they are U.S. made but there was a factory delay.

 

[Paps]

I'd like to order one of those rippley thingamabobs from ya.
5500 w ULWD rippley.

 

[augiedoggy]

Bummer. I hope it's not stuck in the ports that are undergoing the slow down slash strike. Thanks for the update, Bobby!

China was actually pretty much closed for business last week because of thier spring holiday not the smartest time for them to take a strike. ( I see that this isn't related to Bobby's delays from the US manufactuer he used)

 

[dmunkey]

Do you have plans to sell a full element kit, element + enclosure kits?

 

[BTizo]

Element Enclosures

He already does.

 

[Gameface]

Do you have plans to sell a full element kit, element + enclosure kits?

Well, you do have to add the element of your choice to your cart and then the enclosure of your choice, but even if "kitted" you'd get the exact same thing in the box because these have to be put together on your kettle anyway, so you wouldn't gain anything by having them assembled before shipping.

 

[dmunkey]

Well, you do have to add the element of your choice to your cart and then the enclosure of your choice, but even if "kitted" you'd get the exact same thing in the box because these have to be put together on your kettle anyway, so you wouldn't gain anything by having them assembled before shipping.

Generally speaking retailers will bundle items together at a savings for the consumer. Looking at other examples on Bobby's site however I see this isn't the case. He's probably already selling at rock bottom prices. :rockin:

 

[Hello]

Do the 2" TC guards come with instructions to assemble? @Bobby_M

 

[raysmithtx]

Nope, they are U.S. made but there was a factory delay.

Any update on the estimated arrival of these?

 

[JoshuaW]

Just an FYI everyone, those ripple elements are on his site now. I just ordered one for my BK, along with some camlock fittings to integrate a flow switch, like Augie has. I'm going to stick with my original straight stainless elements for my HLT and RIMS, since the HLT won't touch wort, and when the RIMS is touching wort, it will be at 120v.

 

[BTizo]

Just an FYI everyone, those ripple elements are on his site now. I just ordered one for my BK, along with some camlock fittings to integrate a flow switch, like Augie has. I'm going to stick with my original straight stainless elements for my HLT and RIMS, since the HLT won't touch wort, and when the RIMS is touching wort, it will be at 120v.

Just ordered two! Thanks Bobby!

 

[augiedoggy]

Nope, they are U.S. made but there was a factory delay.

Bobby just a heads up there a typo on your element order page with the diagram below your element comparison picture... You have the watt densities for 240v listed under 120v and vice versa...

 

[Bobby_M]

Nice catch!

 

[slugsly]

Camco 02965 is all stainless too right?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Camco 02965 is all stainless too right?

Nope. Lime life elements have a plated base. The sheath of most elements is some sort of stainless but that isn't the issue.

 

[slugsly]

So http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ is fibbing when they say the new elements are all ss?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I can't speak to that. If you go directly to camco's site it is pretty vague. That is where i got my information. http://www.camco.net/Products/Item?prodID=11221

There are 3 products in the group for that page. The 02929, 02935 and 02965.

 

[jbaysurfer]

So http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ is fibbing when they say the new elements are all ss?

The black heating rod portion is made from the highest Grade Nickel and Chromium Incoloy which is high temperature and corrosion resistant. It is essentially a mix of premium grade nickel and stainless steel. Incoloy is about 8 times more expensive, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than standard 304/316 stainless steel. It will not rust.

They do call them stainless elements, but they are talking about the base.

 

[augiedoggy]

The base is zinc coated steel and sometimes they turn black and dont rust and other times they rust... some people treat them with olive oil to condition the surface and I hear that helps if done before the rust starts. Others just coat them in silicone. I had rust so I replaced my HLT element with a lwd element with a lead free brass base... These can be found all over and I found a seller on ebay that sells them for $13... This way I can leave my water in my HLT and not have to worry. my BK element base turned black and I dont scrub it... so far no rust.
bobby at brew hardware has all stainless 5500w ULWD ripple elements as well as a few other sellers but His are priced the best I believe. I use 4500w ulwd elements so I cant use them.

 

[kal]

The base is zinc coated steel and sometimes they turn black and dont rust and other times they rust... some people treat them with olive oil to condition the surface and I hear that helps if done before the rust starts. Others just coat them in silicone.

You are referring to the old Camco elements such as the 02963 5500W ripple element. This is the element that brewers have been using for years, including myself - I still use them actually as I don't have rust issues.

For years everyone's been told to not leave water in the kettles for extended durations as the base of the element may rust. Or use an anode. It's a bigger issue in the HLT.

The new Camco 02965 (5500W) and 02955 (4500W) ripple elements that they've recently released have a stainless base that will not rust. This is what we at theelectricbrewery.com now use exclusively. They pretty much look the same as the previous 02963 elements. I tried to summarize the info here.

Pictures:

Kal

 

[kal]

They do call them stainless elements, but they are talking about the base.

Correct.

Though "technically" the black heating rod portion is also stainless since it's a mix of nickel-chromium and stainless steel. It's stronger than regular 304/316 stainless.

I used to only say "stainless base" but then people were thinking that having 100% 304/316 shiny stainless (including the rods) was "better" when it's actually the opposite.

These new Camco 02955/02965 are really what brewers should be using if rust is an issue.

Kal

 

[Bobby_M]

The camco branded ones look pretty close to the ones I stock but I know those particular ones are not made at the same factory due to the plastic base at the back. Although mine do not carry the Camco brand/numbering, I want to be sure people know that they are also made in the USA by one of the two large element manufactures.

 

[augiedoggy]

You are referring to the old Camco elements such as the 02963 5500W ripple element. This is the element that brewers have been using for years, including myself - I still use them actually as I don't have rust issues.

For years everyone's been told to not leave water in the kettles for extended durations as the base of the element may rust. Or use an anode. It's a bigger issue in the HLT.

The new Camco 02965 (5500W) and 02955 (4500W) ripple elements that they've recently released have a stainless base that will not rust. This is what we at theelectricbrewery.com now use exclusively. They pretty much look the same as the previous 02963 elements. I tried to summarize the info here.

Pictures:

Kal

I believe you but the elements you have pictured appear to have nickel/ zinc bases? look at the color of the base compared to the stainless screws... Those bases looks to be the same as my nickel or zinc coated ones.