• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Stainless Steel Heating Element

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I believe you but the elements you have pictured appear to have nickel/ zinc bases? look at the color of the base compared to the stainless screws... Those bases looks to be the same as my nickel or zinc coated ones.
The colour of the metal/material doesn't really mean anything. There are various types and finishes to stainless.

Kal
 
The colour of the metal/material doesn't really mean anything. There are various types and finishes to stainless.

Kal

If you say so... I work with different grades of the the stuff all the time and I have never seen it vary that much in color unless its discolored by heat...
Unless you took those pictures yourself I would guess its the standard generic pic camco uses.
 
They're the standard/generic pictures from Camco's website.

Kal

I am pretty sure the 02965 ripple element is constructed as follows - I have one in hand at the moment:
  • Base is machined out of stainless, not plated
  • Element sheath is made of incoloy (800 series stainless)
  • Electrical terminals and screws are bright nickel plated, base metal is most likely brass. UL Listed connection I doubt stainless is allowed.
 
The camco branded ones look pretty close to the ones I stock but I know those particular ones are not made at the same factory due to the plastic base at the back. Although mine do not carry the Camco brand/numbering, I want to be sure people know that they are also made in the USA by one of the two large element manufactures.

The CAMCO Ripple elements I've handled also have APCOM embossed on the base.

I think that's just a stock image of the zinc plate element.

They're the standard/generic pictures from Camco's website.

Kal

Do you have photos of the actual new SS base CAMCO?
 
I am pretty sure the 02965 ripple element is constructed as follows - I have one in hand at the moment:
  • Base is machined out of stainless, not plated
  • Element sheath is made of incoloy (800 series stainless)
  • Electrical terminals and screws are bright nickel plated, base metal is most likely brass. UL Listed connection I doubt stainless is allowed.
Good point on the last item. I had not thought about that since the Camco ones are indeed UL rated.

Do you have photos of the actual new SS base CAMCO?
I don't... My manufacturer (Spike Innovations) is supposed to take some official pics but they've just been too busy and it's (rightfully so) not high on the priority list... I'll post if/when we get some.

Kal
 
I am pretty sure the 02965 ripple element is constructed as follows - I have one in hand at the moment:
  • Base is machined out of stainless, not plated
  • Element sheath is made of incoloy (800 series stainless)
  • Electrical terminals and screws are bright nickel plated, base metal is most likely brass. UL Listed connection I doubt stainless is allowed.

Its ironic to me that nickel platesd brass would be allowed (as would steel) But stainless which is mainly a nickel and steel mixture as far as I understand is not allowed...I have read that stainless does not make the best conductor but I had assumed (probably incorrectly) that it was the nickel that caused this? There must be more to it.
 
Most likely. I'm not sure if stainless is allowed, but assuming it isn't there are often all sorts of other factors that aren't immediately obvious. Take aluminum (ALU): ALU wiring was used in electrical wiring work between the breaker panel and receptacles for many years before they stopped allowing it due to the expansion/contraction that could happen over time, causing poor connectivity in some cases, causing excess heat, causing fire concerns. There's nothing inherently unsafe with ALU wiring as long as you go and open up all your outlets once every ~5 years to recheck/retighten. But of course you can't ask or expect a homeowner to do that. ALU is still allowed for service entrance wire (the usually short piece between the meter and the panel because of how it's fastened - I watched an electrician do our ~3 years ago when we upgraded from a 100A to 200A service).

Sorry - that was somewhat off topic!

Kal
 
Stainless is an alloy so it will have different qualities. As to aluminum problem, bad connections is only half the problem. When aluminum is exposed to air it oxides and the oxide is flammable (see Thermite) at 1300f. All it took is a couple of arcs between wire and terminal and the wire would burn and continue into the wall.
 
Its ironic to me that nickel platesd brass would be allowed (as would steel) But stainless which is mainly a nickel and steel mixture as far as I understand is not allowed...I have read that stainless does not make the best conductor but I had assumed (probably incorrectly) that it was the nickel that caused this? There must be more to it.

Nickel is about 10X better conductor than stainless. Pure copper is about 40X better than stainless, but too soft to make screws out of, so an alloy (brass) is used. So in the example of household outlets, one screw is brass (hot) one screw is nickel plated (neutral).

So - I think the Camco stock photos may be accurate. There was a machining residue on the base (1st photo) making it look dull - the next 3 are after cleaning with isopropyl (IPA!)

2.jpg


13.jpg


11.jpg


15.jpg
 
@pablosbrewing: Who's heating elements are you showing us in your photos? Were these ones purchased through my site at TheElectricBrewery.com? They look identical to the Camco 02965 ones we have for which I posted photos earlier.

Kal
 
If you say so... I work with different grades of the the stuff all the time and I have never seen it vary that much in color unless its discolored by heat...
Unless you took those pictures yourself I would guess its the standard generic pic camco uses.

I work with various grades of stainless all the time. It's pretty hard to distinguish CA6 and CD4 vs just plain ol ductile iron a lot of times.
 
@pablosbrewing: Who's heating elements are you showing us in your photos? Were these ones purchased through my site at TheElectricBrewery.com? They look identical to the Camco 02965 ones we have for which I posted photos earlier.

Kal

They are Camco 02965's from https://www.plumbingsupply.com/ they were the first place I found the stainless base ripples.
 
So if you are not leaving the elements in liquid for long periods rust is not an issue? I'm going to be doing a one vessel BIAB so besides the mash and boil the element wouldn't be in liquid.
 
It depends on length of time you leave them in water as well as possibly the water chemistry (harder water seems worse?). When in doubt, get ones with a stainless base.

Kal
 
It's very obvious to me now that the Camco brand elements are manufactured by at least two companies, one of which is APCOM. They go through several different materials variations depending on availability. The bases specifically have been 430SS and 304SS. The latter look a lot better but they only subbed those in for a short period when they had trouble with their 430SS source which is a lot cheaper for them. Long story short though, all of them are rust resistant enough that it's a moot point unless you're always looking for shiny stainless hidden in the bottom of your kettle.
 
The stainless steel elements are rust free.
These heating elements include important features a brewer should look for:

1. Ultra low watt density or low watt density.
2. A stainless steel base that will not rust.

These heating elements are available in different sizes. :)
 
Back
Top