sprinke or re-hydrate

[cmac62]

My third brew was an IRS that ended up around 13%. I used one packet of BRY 97 sprinkled on top. The second day it blew the top off the fermenter (wife was not happy with my new hobby). I have not hydrated dry yeast since then.

 

[jschein]

same here but my wife got me into this 32 years ago. #herfault

 

[Maxkling]

I pitch dry but still follow required pitch rates. If I need 2 11g packs then I use 2.

I’m on a simple and refined kick now that I have kids and am trying to squeeze brewing back into the day to day.

 

[Jonakr]

"If you sprinkle when you tinkle..."

I generally use either S-04 or Nottingham for Ciders and GF beers. If it's fresh, I follow the directions on the pouch. If I'm re-using, I'll add about 1/4 cup from the previous batch.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

not according to the mfr

Nice overview of dry yeast in 2020. Thank you!

FWIW, my comment in #23 was only an attempt to identify the source of the "50% death rate". The original source may go back even further - but that may not matter as "the myth" appears to be no longer true. Products like dry yeast (and malt extracts) appear to have improved noticeably over the years.

 

[naa10104]

Hello all, thanks for all the replies. Wanted to let you all know what my results were ref. this question. Again making a Gluten free amber ale from a kit. So, 6 lbs. dark Sorghum, 1 lb. dark candi syrup, 1.5 oz two different hops. I addes app. 1/3 a lb. of "homeade dark candi syrup" (table sugar) to boost the OG. OG = 1.060 including temp correction. I sprinkled the Safale S-04 on top of 4 oz.'s of warm water and let it sit for app. 15 minutes. I then stirred it thouroughly and let it sit another 15 mins or so. Then poured it into the Carboy which was already full of Wort. Took Carboy to basement for fermentation where temp is app. 68-69.5 degrees. Noticed slow bubbling app. 3-4 hours later. App. total of 9 hours later vigorous bubbling and thick Krausen. This morning 8/15/20 at app. 0700 constant bubbling and thick Krausen. I should say with 10 minutes left in boil I did add 1/2 teaspoon of yeast nutrient. This is the first fermentation I have done in a Carboy and certainly the best one I have seen yet.

 

[LBussy]

it adds work and risk.

If a homebrewer can't be trusted to do rehydration in a sanitary manner, the rest of the batch is not going to go well. It's also not a lot of work - I mean, come on, sprinkle the yeast onto some water and let it sit?

For me, the PITA factor comes in when the water cannot be RO or Distilled but must be sterile and dechlorinated. That either means build water or boil and dechlorinate.

Or, ya know, plain old bottled water is both sterile and dechlorinated.

 

[eric19312]

If a homebrewer can't be trusted to do rehydration in a sanitary manner, the rest of the batch is not going to go well. It's also not a lot of work - I mean, come on, sprinkle the yeast onto some water and let it sit?

It is more work than sprinkling. It is also apparantly time sensitive. Sprinkle evenly, wait 15 min, stir gently, wait 5 min. Not that hard and certainly within hust about any homebrewer's capability but it's a little fussy.

If there was a reason to do it I would. But that's not evident from my experience or from manufacturers data. For those batches I use dry yeast I appreciate the simplicity and convenience. I use dry yeast about 1 batch in 5, rest are harvested from previous batch. That's also pretty low stress.

 

[LBussy]

What part of Long Island? I grew up in Amityville.

Most of the rehydration steps I've seen tell you not to agitate, but I mean that's pretty simple too - right? I agree a lot of good, modern dry yeasts don't need this. But, it doesn't hurt and can help mitigate any stress/damage caused by sitting for too long in a hot warehouse.

I'm so sure of my rehydration workflow, I pitch my Skeeter Pee without a starter (starting about post #15). If it works there, it will work anywhere.

 

[kh54s10]

At least one manufacturer had gone away from the recommendation to rehydrate after doing comparisons and finding little to no difference. I don't remember which manufacturer that was.

 

[ncbrewer]

I emailed Fermentis and was advised not to sprinkle dry yeast on foam - it could leave some yeast outside of the liquid. This makes sense to me. Their new dry pitching recommendation is to partly fill the fermenter, sprinkle the dry yeast, then finish filling - this mixes the yeast in. (This is pretty much what brewbama mentioned in Post #4.)

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

At least one manufacturer had gone away from the recommendation to rehydrate after doing comparisons and finding little to no difference. I don't remember which manufacturer that was.

For what it's worth, for the specific yeast strains that I use (from Fermentis, Lallemand, and Mangrove Jack) product information includes instructions for either sprinkling or hydrating.

Given that we are starting to see yeast products that are more than just yeast (e.g. Fermentis SafBrew™ DA-16), having the details on individual strains likely to be useful in preventing problems on brew day.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Wanted to let you all know what my results were ref. this question.

Thanks for the follow-up. Looks like you have a solid process for brewing with dry yeast.

 

[mygar]

I have been rehydrating using boiled water filtered from fridge. I dont think the filter removes all chlorine... I guess better to pitch dry then?

 

[LBussy]

I have been rehydrating using boiled water filtered from fridge. I dont think the filter removes all chlorine... I guess better to pitch dry then?

Filters do a pretty good job. Boiling drives some off as well. If you have been having good luck, I think you can stick with it. Still, I use cheap bottled water I buy for a few bucks a case at the supermarket. No chlorine and it's sanitary.

 

[VikeMan]

Their new dry pitching recommendation is to partly fill the fermenter, sprinkle the dry yeast, then finish filling - this mixes the yeast in.

I'll just mention that this advice is in a document aimed at commercial brewers, who typically ferment in conicals that don't allow for sprinkling evenly on top of wort. I don't think they mean it as a preferred method when you can sprinkle evenly.

(I feel like we've had this discussion before. )

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I'll just mention that this advice is in a document aimed at commercial brewers, who typically ferment in conicals that don't allow for sprinkling evenly on top of wort. I don't think they mean it as a preferred method when you can sprinkle evenly.

If I end up with a fermentation vessel with a port hole on the side, I may give the partial fill technique a try.

Until then, for me, a well 'poka-yolked' process for pitching dry yeast is sprinkle it on top, close the vessel, and walk away.

(I feel like we've had this discussion before. )

And some group of 'us' in the forum will have it again .

 

[ncbrewer]

It's deja vu all over again.

 

[madscientist451]

You can also save some money by saving the yeast from this batch in your refrigerator; some people say saving dried yeast isn't worth the trouble, but its pretty easy and works fine, then you won't have to worry about the sprinkle vs re-hydrate issue.

 

[jdauria]

Team re-hydrate here!

 

[eric19312]

You can also save some money by saving the yeast from this batch in your refrigerator; some people say saving dried yeast isn't worth the trouble, but its pretty easy and works fine, then you won't have to worry about the sprinkle vs re-hydrate issue.

even shopping around I pay $3/pack of US-05 and will use 3-4 packs in a batch. That’s enough savings for me to go ahead and harvest and repitch.

 

[dmtaylor]

even shopping around I pay $3/pack of US-05 and will use 3-4 packs in a batch. That’s enough savings for me to go ahead and harvest and repitch.

Are you making 30-gallon batches? By my counts, I figure 1/2 pack is plenty for 5 gallons. Been pitching at this rate for years and haven't experienced problems.

 

[Jonakr]

Are you making 30-gallon batches? By my counts, I figure 1/2 pack is plenty for 5 gallons. Been pitching at this rate for years and haven't experienced problems.

Yeah, that's a ton of yeast. I use one pack for 5 gallons, and will happily split a pack for 1 gallon test batches. And, by split, I'll separate one pack into 5 smaller packs with no worries.

 

[eric19312]

Yeah, that's a ton of yeast. I use one pack for 5 gallons, and will happily split a pack for 1 gallon test batches. And, by split, I'll separate one pack into 5 smaller packs with no worries.

My batches are about 17.5 gallons into the fermentor. If I am using new yeast I will use 3 packs if OG is under 1.050 and 4 packs if OG is over. I don't think that amount is crazy high and sounds like we are using very similar dosing rates.

 

[Jonakr]

My batches are about 17.5 gallons into the fermentor. If I am using new yeast I will use 3 packs if OG is under 1.050 and 4 packs if OG is over. I don't think that amount is crazy high and sounds like we are using very similar dosing rates.

Lol, yeah, totally reasonable. I have a 15 gallon stockpot, but still only do 5 gallon batches because that's the size of my buckets. I'd imagine the logistics of 17.5 gallons is much different.

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

follow up question on my original post. Has been in Carboy for two weeks today and is still showing active fermetnation, ie. bubbles slowly rising to top of wort and airlock bubbling once every 15-20 seconds. I am inclined to leave it until no activity at all and then take gravity readings. Does this sound correct ? Thanks very much.

 

[dmtaylor]

follow up question on my original post. Has been in Carboy for two weeks today and is still showing active fermetnation, ie. bubbles slowly rising to top of wort and airlock bubbling once every 15-20 seconds. I am inclined to leave it until no activity at all and then take gravity readings. Does this sound correct ? Thanks very much.

Yes, that's a good idea. I am experiencing the same issue with my current roggenbier. I wanted to bottle it like a week ago, but it's still bubbling after weeks. The frustrating thing is that I have been monitoring the FG and it's only decreased 0.001 gravity unit over the past 5 days or so. But still going. Eventually I might just bottle it anyway and take my chances, recognizing that it might turn to gushers later.

 

[ncbrewer]

Hello,

follow up question on my original post. Has been in Carboy for two weeks today and is still showing active fermetnation, ie. bubbles slowly rising to top of wort and airlock bubbling once every 15-20 seconds. I am inclined to leave it until no activity at all and then take gravity readings. Does this sound correct ? Thanks very much.

If it was me, I'd plan 3 weeks in the fermenter. Check gravity 2 - 3 days before the planned bottling day, and again on bottling day. If gravity is stable and in a reasonable FG range, and clear or slightly misty, go ahead and bottle. I've had three very slow fermentations, but by using this method and bottling when gravity is stable, it has worked out well. It wouldn't hurt to handle the bottles carefully (in a bin, and using goggles when handling, etc) just in case.

 

[eric19312]

Hello,

follow up question on my original post. Has been in Carboy for two weeks today and is still showing active fermetnation, ie. bubbles slowly rising to top of wort and airlock bubbling once every 15-20 seconds. I am inclined to leave it until no activity at all and then take gravity readings. Does this sound correct ? Thanks very much.

What does the beer look like? Airlock bubbles are helpful in understanding when active fermentation gets going and when it slows down but terrible for indicating when the beer is actually done fermenting.

At end of fermentation there is a lot of CO2 dissolved in the beer. But this gas comes out over time especially if the fermentor warms at all after fermentation was complete. That can be plenty to cause occasional airlock bubble on a well sealed carboy.

But since you are in a carboy take a flashlight and look at the beer. Is it dropping clear or is it still pretty hazy? If it has dropped clear and you are at 2 weeks go ahead and bottle it it is done.

I've really gotten away from the daily gravity samples to decide if the beer is done. Just asking for cold side oxidation.

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

Hard to tell how clear with flashlight as the this is a dark amber ale, hard to see through. Weak bubble in airlock every 22-23 seconds. Small bubbles on surface fairly steadily, think I might take a SG reading tomorrow or the next day and see where it is. Quick question, this is a 7 gallon carbor with app. 5 gallons Wort. What is the easiest way to get SG sample and move it to bottling bucket ? Have an auto siphon bbut it is not long enough to submerge in the wort. THanks